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AMD Ryzen 5900x idle temperature too High 55-60 degrees

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Just now, iwolverine said:

Thanks I am searching it out. To be honest do not have experience in OC or under volting . Need to do my home even before I try everything. Also should I reinstall the Windows? As I did not reinstall the windows after chaning the Processor and motherboard

No, you shouldn't need to reinstall Windows if you're just moving from AMD to AMD.

 

I've played around with OC before, but not much, because it never did much for Zen 2 anyways. Never even messed with undervolting the CPU before, but this was so straight-forward it was pretty much a why not situation. Technically, this isn't an overclock, which is part of what makes it so cool. You're just literally lowering the power coming into the chip, and thus decreasing the heat being produced as well. After that, Ryzen just does what Ryzen does and uses the available power and thermal head room to boost as well as it can. Because there's now more of that than stock, it goes higher. The only way it can really go wrong is if the CPU is literally now not getting enough power. That would be when you'd have to back off the number of steps. You'll want to run some stress tests to ensure it's stable, but other than that, no worries.

Processor: AMD Ryzen 5900x
Aio - Corsair 360mm H150
Case - Lian Li O11 Dynamic with 6 extra fans.

This is the first time I am using AMD ecosystem. I changed my motherboard and processor yesterday.
Coming from an intel platform I thought temperatures will be lower. My i7 9700k idle
at 29-34 higest and while gaming its 60 max. However my AMD idle temperatures are sitting at 55-60 and even when opening a browser it shoots upto 70 and sometimes 81 degrees. This doesn't seem normal.

I tried repasting 4 times using Thermal Greasly Kryonaught and Artic MX but still its same.

I have a really good push/pull configuration.

Do I have a faulty processor or am I doiny something wrong.

Please advice.

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Believe it or not, that's pretty normal for a 5900X (and for Zen 3 in general). AMD's tuning on this generation means that the CPU idles pretty warm and aggressively clocks up during short but intensive tasks, which is what's causing those 10-15C jumps you mentioned. Luckily, there's no evidence that this results in lower performance, or that it reduces the CPU's lifespan. If you wanted, you could tune the fan curve on your AIO to reduce your idle a bit, but honestly it's nothing to worry about. 

Main PC:

AMD Ryzen 7 5800X • Noctua NH-D15 • MSI MAG B550 Tomahawk • 2x8GB G.skill Trident Z Neo 3600MHz CL16 • MSI VENTUS 3X GeForce RTX 3070 OC • Samsung 970 Evo 1TB • Samsung 860 Evo 1TB • Cosair iCUE 465X RGB • Corsair RMx 750W (White)

 

Peripherals/Other:

ASUS VG27AQ • G PRO K/DA • G502 Hero K/DA • G733 K/DA • G840 K/DA • Oculus Quest 2 • Nintendo Switch (Rev. 2)

 

Laptop (Dell XPS 13):

Intel Core i7-1195G7 • Intel Iris Xe Graphics • 16GB LPDDR4x 4267MHz • 512GB M.2 PCIe NVMe SSD • 13.4" OLED 3.5K InfinityEdge Display (3456x2160, 400nit, touch). 

 

Got any questions about my system or peripherals? Feel free to tag me (@bellabichon) and I'll be happy to give you my two cents. 

 

PSA: Posting a PCPartPicker list with no explanation isn't helpful for first-time builders :)

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This is probably just pbo. Amds CPUs are designed now to boost as hard as possible. Even with custom, dual 360mmrad, water cooling, I'd bet you would still have similar temps.

I could use some help with this!

please, pm me if you would like to contribute to my gpu bios database (includes overclocking bios, stock bios, and upgrades to gpus via modding)

Bios database

My beautiful, but not that powerful, main PC:

prior build:

Spoiler

 

 

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I'd say that's a voltage issue, your chip is drawing more than necessary and it's resulting in those high temps. Just boot into BIOS and manually enter a max of 1.35V on your V-Core.

 

A lot of Ryzen Motherboards push up to 1.45V or more just at idle or in a browser using the default BIOS configuration.

 

But also, the 5900X has nearly double the cores/threads of the 9700K, so higher temperatures definitely make sense.

[Main Desktop]

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X  GPU: EVGA RTX 3070 Ti (FTW3 Ultra)  MOBO: MSI Gaming Pro Carbon (X470)  RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V DDR4-3600 CL16 (2x8GB)

COOLER: Arctic LiquidFreezer II 280 STORAGE: G.SKILL Phoenix FTL 240GB SSD, Crucial MX500 1TB SSD, Toshiba 2TB HDD, Seagate 4TB HDD

PSU: EVGA GQ-1000W 80+ Gold  CASE: The MESHMOD v1.0 (Custom Deepcool Matrexx 70 chassis)  MONITOR: AOC 24G2 144Hz (IPS) 

MOUSE: Logitech G502 HERO (wired)  KEYBOARD: Rosewill K81 RGB (Kailh Brown)  HEADPHONES: HiFiMan Ananda, Drop x Sennheiser HD6XX

IEMS: 7Hz Timeless, Tin Audio T2, Blon BL-03, Samsung/AKG Galaxy Buds Pro  STUDIO MONITORS: Mackie MR524, Mackie MRS10  MIC: NEAT Worker Bee  

INTERFACE: Focusrite Scarlett Solo  AMPLIFIER: SMSL SP200 THX AAA-888, XDUOO XD-05 Basic  DAC: SMSL Sanskrit 10th MKII (upgraded AK4493 Version)

WHEEL: Logitech G29 + Logitech G Shifter

 

[Stream Encoder]

CPU: AMD FX-9590  GPU: Sapphire R9 390X (Tri-X OC)  MOBO: ASUS Sabertooth R2.0 (AM3+)  RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X DDR3-1866 (2x8GB)

COOLER: EVGA CLC 280 PSU: MSI A750GF 80+ Gold CASE: Phanteks P400A Digital

 

[Garage]

CAR: 2003 Honda Civic Coupe LX (EM2)  ENGINE: D17A1, planned K20A2 swap  INTAKE: DIY Solutions Short RAM  HEADERS: Motor1 4-2-1 with Cat-Delete

EXHAUST: Yonaka 2.5" Cat-Back with 3.5" tip (YMCB-CIV0105)  COILOVERS: MaXpeedingrods adjustable  RIMS: Core Racing Concept Seven Alloys (15x6.5)

RECEIVER: Kenwood DPX304MBT  SOUND DEADENING: Damplifier Pro Deadening Mats  SOUND DAMPENING: Custom solution, layers of thick insulation

DOOR SPEAKERS: Kenwood KFC-P710PS 6.5" Components  WINDOW LEDGE SPEAKERS: Kenwood KFC-6996PS 6x9" 5-Ways

 

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10 minutes ago, bellabichon said:

Believe it or not, that's pretty normal for a 5900X (and for Zen 3 in general). AMD's tuning on this generation means that the CPU idles pretty warm and aggressively clocks up during short but intensive tasks, which is what's causing those 10-15C jumps you mentioned. Luckily, there's no evidence that this results in lower performance, or that it reduces the CPU's lifespan. If you wanted, you could tune the fan curve on your AIO to reduce your idle a bit, but honestly it's nothing to worry about. 

Thanks everyone for all the answers. However I am not very familiar with oc or under volting. If I lower the voltage will it limit the performance? 

 

I am using MSI Unify x570 mobo

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7 minutes ago, OfficialTechSpace said:

I'd say that's a voltage issue, your chip is drawing more than necessary and it's resulting in those high temps. Just boot into BIOS and manually enter 1.35V on your V-Core.

 

A lot of Ryzen Motherboards push up to 1.45V or more just at idle or in a browser using the default BIOS configuration.

 

But also, the 5900X has nearly double the cores/threads of the 9700K so higher temperatures definitely make sense.

I am using MSI Unify x570. I need to check some guides before I touch the bios to under volt. 

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image.png.a358a0453ca5757a5e0d32d4db75841c.png

 

5900X with 240mm Corsair AIO. Sitting idle right now with only chrome, teams, discord and outlook open.

 

image.png.33a587b152ea517e9986dfbd33a29cc3.png

After like 10 minutes of playing a game.

 

So you're idle temps are about average and your load temps are a about the same as well.

CPU: Intel i7 - 5820k @ 4.5GHz, Cooler: Corsair H80i, Motherboard: MSI X99S Gaming 7, RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB DDR4 2666MHz CL16,

GPU: ASUS GTX 980 Strix, Case: Corsair 900D, PSU: Corsair AX860i 860W, Keyboard: Logitech G19, Mouse: Corsair M95, Storage: Intel 730 Series 480GB SSD, WD 1.5TB Black

Display: BenQ XL2730Z 2560x1440 144Hz

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It's normal even with 360mm AIO.

 

The voltages on idle or during a single core burst loads can shoot up to 1.5V in which case the CPU temp will spike quite a bit but that's only on one or two cores, not the entire CPU. Other cores are asleep and use almost no power and therefore they run very close to the room temperature.

 

Another reason the temp spikes are so high is that it happens in such a small area that it's very difficult to cool the hotspot with an air or water cooler effectively.

 

You can reduce this by setting a negative offset voltage. I use -0.05V on my R9 3900X and it drops about 10*C during those spikes with 360mm AIO.

 

You can try to go even lower but your CPU may become unstable.

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Those temps are normal for Zen 3 out of the box. You should definitely undervolt it, and it's stupidly easy to do that now with the PBO2 curve optimizer.

 

You just go into the BIOS and into the CPU overclocking area. There will be a section for Precision Boost Overdrive. Set the option there to Advanced, which will give you some other options. Set power limits to disabled. Set the offset to negative (undervolt) And then enter a number for the offset, up to 30. This is measure in "steps" and represents 3-5mV for each step, with a maximum of 30 or 150mV. Pretty much all the Zen 3 CPUs can do the full 30, but you might need to back off a bit. Save and restart.

 

It's that simple. For my 5900X, this brought my temps down a full 10C, and I now get 4.5GHz across an all-core multicore workload, and up to 4.95GHz boost for single core workloads. Amazing stuff.

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X · Cooler: Artic Liquid Freezer II 280 · Motherboard: MSI MEG X570 Unify · RAM: G.skill Ripjaws V 2x16GB 3600MHz CL16 (2Rx8) · Graphics Card: ASUS GeForce RTX 3060 Ti TUF Gaming · Boot Drive: 500GB WD Black SN750 M.2 NVMe SSD · Game Drive: 2TB Crucial MX500 SATA SSD · PSU: Corsair White RM850x 850W 80+ Gold · Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow · Monitor: MSI Optix MAG342CQR 34” UWQHD 3440x1440 144Hz · Keyboard: Corsair K100 RGB Optical-Mechanical Gaming Keyboard (OPX Switch) · Mouse: Corsair Ironclaw RGB Wireless Gaming Mouse

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49 minutes ago, trag1c said:

image.png.a358a0453ca5757a5e0d32d4db75841c.png

 

5900X with 240mm Corsair AIO. Sitting idle right now with only chrome, teams, discord and outlook open.

 

image.png.33a587b152ea517e9986dfbd33a29cc3.png

After like 10 minutes of playing a game.

 

So you're idle temps are about average and your load temps are a about the same as well.

Currently My system is doing nothing other than running HwMonitor

 

One quick note - after chaning the processor and motherboard I did not fresh install the Windows.

 

 

High_temp.JPG

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18 minutes ago, Chris Pratt said:

Those temps are normal for Zen 3 out of the box. You should definitely undervolt it, and it's stupidly easy to do that now with the PBO2 curve optimizer.

 

You just go into the BIOS and into the CPU overclocking area. There will be a section for Precision Boost Overdrive. Set the option there to Advanced, which will give you some other options. Set power limits to disabled. Set the offset to negative (undervolt) And then enter a number for the offset, up to 30. This is measure in "steps" and represents 3-5mV for each step, with a maximum of 30 or 150mV. Pretty much all the Zen 3 CPUs can do the full 30, but you might need to back off a bit. Save and restart.

 

It's that simple. For my 5900X, this brought my temps down a full 10C, and I now get 4.5GHz across an all-core multicore workload, and up to 4.95GHz boost for single core workloads. Amazing stuff.

 

Hi Chris

 

THanks a lot let me check out and post my update

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1 minute ago, iwolverine said:

 

Hi Chris

 

THanks a lot let me check out and post my update

There's more in depth guides online in both video and article form, if you need it. Just search for "PBO2 curve optimizer".

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X · Cooler: Artic Liquid Freezer II 280 · Motherboard: MSI MEG X570 Unify · RAM: G.skill Ripjaws V 2x16GB 3600MHz CL16 (2Rx8) · Graphics Card: ASUS GeForce RTX 3060 Ti TUF Gaming · Boot Drive: 500GB WD Black SN750 M.2 NVMe SSD · Game Drive: 2TB Crucial MX500 SATA SSD · PSU: Corsair White RM850x 850W 80+ Gold · Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow · Monitor: MSI Optix MAG342CQR 34” UWQHD 3440x1440 144Hz · Keyboard: Corsair K100 RGB Optical-Mechanical Gaming Keyboard (OPX Switch) · Mouse: Corsair Ironclaw RGB Wireless Gaming Mouse

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1 minute ago, Chris Pratt said:

There's more in depth guides online in both video and article form, if you need it. Just search for "PBO2 curve optimizer".

Thanks I am searching it out. To be honest do not have experience in OC or under volting . Need to do my home even before I try everything. Also should I reinstall the Windows? As I did not reinstall the windows after chaning the Processor and motherboard

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Just now, iwolverine said:

Thanks I am searching it out. To be honest do not have experience in OC or under volting . Need to do my home even before I try everything. Also should I reinstall the Windows? As I did not reinstall the windows after chaning the Processor and motherboard

No, you shouldn't need to reinstall Windows if you're just moving from AMD to AMD.

 

I've played around with OC before, but not much, because it never did much for Zen 2 anyways. Never even messed with undervolting the CPU before, but this was so straight-forward it was pretty much a why not situation. Technically, this isn't an overclock, which is part of what makes it so cool. You're just literally lowering the power coming into the chip, and thus decreasing the heat being produced as well. After that, Ryzen just does what Ryzen does and uses the available power and thermal head room to boost as well as it can. Because there's now more of that than stock, it goes higher. The only way it can really go wrong is if the CPU is literally now not getting enough power. That would be when you'd have to back off the number of steps. You'll want to run some stress tests to ensure it's stable, but other than that, no worries.

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X · Cooler: Artic Liquid Freezer II 280 · Motherboard: MSI MEG X570 Unify · RAM: G.skill Ripjaws V 2x16GB 3600MHz CL16 (2Rx8) · Graphics Card: ASUS GeForce RTX 3060 Ti TUF Gaming · Boot Drive: 500GB WD Black SN750 M.2 NVMe SSD · Game Drive: 2TB Crucial MX500 SATA SSD · PSU: Corsair White RM850x 850W 80+ Gold · Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow · Monitor: MSI Optix MAG342CQR 34” UWQHD 3440x1440 144Hz · Keyboard: Corsair K100 RGB Optical-Mechanical Gaming Keyboard (OPX Switch) · Mouse: Corsair Ironclaw RGB Wireless Gaming Mouse

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9 minutes ago, Chris Pratt said:

No, you shouldn't need to reinstall Windows if you're just moving from AMD to AMD.

 

I've played around with OC before, but not much, because it never did much for Zen 2 anyways. Never even messed with undervolting the CPU before, but this was so straight-forward it was pretty much a why not situation. Technically, this isn't an overclock, which is part of what makes it so cool. You're just literally lowering the power coming into the chip, and thus decreasing the heat being produced as well. After that, Ryzen just does what Ryzen does and uses the available power and thermal head room to boost as well as it can. Because there's now more of that than stock, it goes higher. The only way it can really go wrong is if the CPU is literally now not getting enough power. That would be when you'd have to back off the number of steps. You'll want to run some stress tests to ensure it's stable, but other than that, no worries.


I moved from Intel Core i7 9700k to AMD 5900x

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49 minutes ago, iwolverine said:


I moved from Intel Core i7 9700k to AMD 5900x

Oh. Well, you don't necessarily have to reinstall Windows, but it's generally better if you do. Otherwise, you have to make sure all the chipset, LAN, WiFi, Bluetooth, etc. all get uninstalled correctly. Even then, you can sometimes end up with weird issues and driver conflicts down the line.

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X · Cooler: Artic Liquid Freezer II 280 · Motherboard: MSI MEG X570 Unify · RAM: G.skill Ripjaws V 2x16GB 3600MHz CL16 (2Rx8) · Graphics Card: ASUS GeForce RTX 3060 Ti TUF Gaming · Boot Drive: 500GB WD Black SN750 M.2 NVMe SSD · Game Drive: 2TB Crucial MX500 SATA SSD · PSU: Corsair White RM850x 850W 80+ Gold · Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow · Monitor: MSI Optix MAG342CQR 34” UWQHD 3440x1440 144Hz · Keyboard: Corsair K100 RGB Optical-Mechanical Gaming Keyboard (OPX Switch) · Mouse: Corsair Ironclaw RGB Wireless Gaming Mouse

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Just now, Chris Pratt said:

Oh. Well, you don't necessarily have to reinstall Windows, but it's generally better if you do. Otherwise, you have to make sure all the chipset, LAN, WiFi, Bluetooth, etc. all get uninstalled correctly. Even then, you can sometimes end up with weird issues and driver conflicts down the line.

THanks a lot Mate... Appreciate your help

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29 minutes ago, Chris Pratt said:

Oh. Well, you don't necessarily have to reinstall Windows, but it's generally better if you do. Otherwise, you have to make sure all the chipset, LAN, WiFi, Bluetooth, etc. all get uninstalled correctly. Even then, you can sometimes end up with weird issues and driver conflicts down the line.

One last Question. Will undervolting affect gaming performance? Will it drop gaming performance like drop in fps, etc?

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37 minutes ago, iwolverine said:

One last Question. Will undervolting affect gaming performance? Will it drop gaming performance like drop in fps, etc?

The opposite actually. Ryzen uses the extra power and thermal headroom to boost higher even under all core multicore loads. And, like I said, I'm now getting nearly 5GHz single core on a CPU that maxes out at 4.8GHz stock (I was actually getting 4.75GHz stock, but close enough). Since single core is still the most important for gaming, that amounts to what would be a very solid overclock doing it manually, and you'd never get that high with an all-core OC.

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X · Cooler: Artic Liquid Freezer II 280 · Motherboard: MSI MEG X570 Unify · RAM: G.skill Ripjaws V 2x16GB 3600MHz CL16 (2Rx8) · Graphics Card: ASUS GeForce RTX 3060 Ti TUF Gaming · Boot Drive: 500GB WD Black SN750 M.2 NVMe SSD · Game Drive: 2TB Crucial MX500 SATA SSD · PSU: Corsair White RM850x 850W 80+ Gold · Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow · Monitor: MSI Optix MAG342CQR 34” UWQHD 3440x1440 144Hz · Keyboard: Corsair K100 RGB Optical-Mechanical Gaming Keyboard (OPX Switch) · Mouse: Corsair Ironclaw RGB Wireless Gaming Mouse

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12 minutes ago, Chris Pratt said:

The opposite actually. Ryzen uses the extra power and thermal headroom to boost higher even under all core multicore loads. And, like I said, I'm now getting nearly 5GHz single core on a CPU that maxes out at 4.8GHz stock (I was actually getting 4.75GHz stock, but close enough). Since single core is still the most important for gaming, that amounts to what would be a very solid overclock doing it manually, and you'd never get that high with an all-core OC.

Thanks a lot for the help, really appreciate it. Just now reinstalled Windows and now my temps are around 48-60 atleast on idle 47-55 which is far better than previously. However playing far cry 5 my temps are at constant 76-79 and GTA 5 constant 61-63.

 

Is 80c while gaming bad or its fine?

 

I need to test horizon zero dawn. However its still on stock mode 

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12 minutes ago, iwolverine said:

Thanks a lot for the help, really appreciate it. Just now reinstalled Windows and now my temps are around 48-60 atleast on idle 47-55 which is far better than previously. However playing far cry 5 my temps are at constant 76-79 and GTA 5 constant 61-63.

 

Is 80c while gaming bad or its fine?

 

I need to test horizon zero dawn. However its still on stock mode 

No. That's still fine. Ryzen doesn't even sweat until 95C, and it actually seems like Zen 3 can hit 100-105C and still not cry, though you obviously shouldn't really push it that far.

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X · Cooler: Artic Liquid Freezer II 280 · Motherboard: MSI MEG X570 Unify · RAM: G.skill Ripjaws V 2x16GB 3600MHz CL16 (2Rx8) · Graphics Card: ASUS GeForce RTX 3060 Ti TUF Gaming · Boot Drive: 500GB WD Black SN750 M.2 NVMe SSD · Game Drive: 2TB Crucial MX500 SATA SSD · PSU: Corsair White RM850x 850W 80+ Gold · Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow · Monitor: MSI Optix MAG342CQR 34” UWQHD 3440x1440 144Hz · Keyboard: Corsair K100 RGB Optical-Mechanical Gaming Keyboard (OPX Switch) · Mouse: Corsair Ironclaw RGB Wireless Gaming Mouse

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I've been in the lower hundreds by accident.. its fine.. tough like an Intel so far.. not sure about the voltage and the current yet so I wont give it the beans all the time. I have had my little 6 core running at 4.9 all core for some lighter loads, I bet if you can keep those 8 cores cool you could do some quick all core stuff at 5ghz+. I have been meaning to get one, but I don't want to spend all of that money. I already bought 2 am4 CPU's I don't need another. But I do want one.. I check the egg daily so if I see it @ 500 or lower I will get one. But that is doubtful.

AMD R7 5800X3D | Thermalright Aqua Elite 360, 3x TL- C12 Pro, 2x TL-K12, SYY-157
Asus Crosshair VIII Dark Hero | 4 x 8GB G.Skill Trident Z Mix @ 3733 14-14-14-34 1.5v
Zotac 4070 Ti Trinity OC @ 3045/1495 | WD SN850, SN850X, 2x SN770, Asus Hyper M.2
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  • 9 months later...

I also had 5900x 60-70C on idle. The reason was Corsair H100 pipe touching hot GPU backplate, LOL 🙂 When fixed never exceeded 60C.

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all i can tell you is what i get.  i came from a 3770k system and build many 4970(30-36bda) systems haswell and my 3770k was 32c (32-42 dba)at idle and the haswells often 28c idle.  my 5900x amd shocked me at 37-41c idle.  but dont get me wrong im very happy here because my fans are on low (no sound so didnt even bother measueing in dba.)and i cant actually hear any fan noise at all. there is no noise coming from my desktop at idle and it sits at 37-41 idle.  Now im replying to this thread its gone up to 42c and no noice.  actuaslly dureing winter ill play games and i find that them geting as hot as my itels got is alot harder. even on prime i havent seen the high numbers i would on all the intel systems i have built.  im that happy that i have my fan curve set to small increments from 53 to 65 degree c after that i ramp it up a little more.  again can herar fans once it reaches 60-65 but then only with no game volume.  my amd system is the quietest system i have had AND AS such when skype is on its a hot 60-67 degree(i have 3 friends on skype left so guessing another couple years theyll move to discord or teams or something else lol. IT is same temps as i get when playing zero dawn lol, YEP SKYPE IS THAT BAD, IM NOT WORRIED. 

 

Just so you know i have always used dual rads on all the many pcs i have built for myself and my friends, i have always used ic diamond paste and artic silver 3 or 4 i think in the early days. My amd system does differ a little asi have a triple corsair rad and used pk3 paste that from what i can see is within 1 degree of ic diamond(because i couldnt get ic diamond at a resonable price dureing lockdown), My last system was a dual 280 rad in a very closed with no breathing scilent and louder case.

The fans are very quiet in my new 802 be quiet case(yes they have slow rpm),Call out to be quiet a fantastic suplyer who sold me a non windowsed panel and hd slot covers when no one else online had them in white.  Be quiet won me over here. The 802 has non mesh and mesh panels in a bigish case and i use only mesh top and mesh front and as its so quiet i dont hear a thing its unlikely i will put on the solid panels..  IIm using 3 140 fans and i do believe the 140 size is the way to go instead of 120 as they move more air slower and hence quieter. Amazing be quiet fans. So good and quiet i didnt feel the need to stick in my notcua f12s. The corsair fans are euqally impressive and this is the first corsair rad i havent used my noctua fans on because they are that quiet too. And by that quiet i cant hear a thing.

my fan configeration his not optinal as i have my radiator on top and the fans are pushing air out of my case through my rad.  i reversed the back 140 so air is taken in from rear and also 2 140 fans on front is takeing air in so hot air rise and ejected through corsair fans.  i sadly did this 

so my ciorsair white cooler and led fans look great but idealy id have set it up the normal way.  i might revise that when sumer comes. or if i can actually get a gpu as my 1070 amp extreme is great but old now.  i have a series x inuntil that day.

 

The only time i had reached close to this quiet was in a huge preditor x case with 200mm fans.  i went smaller regreted uit but the 802 size is a good comprimise.  i wont go small cases again, truth is biger the fans the less they rotate, the quieter they are so bigger is better for moving air.  and well it also helps me not fear my 37-41 on idle 5900x.  

 

Id say from my seperience if your runing close to 50 idle then you might have a background task working or maybe you need to chech therma paste.  if your at top 40s with some browsing and you have quiet system i think dont worry with the 5900x but thats my experience.  i can turn my fans up to a audible 40ish dba and ill maintain 42-45 while browsing but that extra 2 degree doesnt bother me.

 

 

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