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Building a Wall-Mount Metal Frame for Desktop Watercooling Components

This is going to be a project of which I do not know the outcome. This is going to push me well outside my comfort zone and over the next few weeks we are going to embark to create a wall mountable frame in which watercooling parts can be hung.

 

frame_1.png.ed75488caaf366901fb978612ab739e6.png frame_2.png.0a3e7bcba66e0a06b2b43c7112f3b27c.png

 

In addition to constructing this frame out of 3/4th" extruded hollow aluminum rod we are going to attempt to assemble it not using nuts, bolts, and brackets but FIRE and Aluminum brazing rods.

 

DSCF0022.thumb.JPG.86d835d5093755fa22b288494b545fe1.JPG

 

Outlined on the table above we have:

  • 4x4' 3/4th" extruded aluminum rod
  • Aluminum brazing rods
  • 2 propane cylinders
  • A propane torch
  • various clamps
  • A triangle for scoring lines
  • Welders gloves & sleeves
  • various abrasive files for making contours
  • Safety glasses
  • A cutting blade for the table saw
  • Various sized heat-shrink (will come into use later)
  • A steel brush for removing the oxidization layer from the Aluminum
  • Acetone for removing oils from the prep surface
  • Metal pick for scoring

 Other tools that may come into play include sand paper, sanding stones, stone and/or metal flat plates, 3D printed parts, drills, and bits.

 

This, is going to be interesting and a heck of a learning experience for me.

 

If in the off chance anybody has any tips or tricks they'd like to share feel free to comment as we go through the steps to build this. :old-grin:

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I personally would have skipped propane and went straight to MAPP gas and possibly added oxygen with one of those mini brazing/heating torches for much higher combustion temperatures just to speed things up with brazing. I also probably would have done TIG but that can be prohibitive for most people.

 

image.thumb.png.d79538a19db25bca485004215afce725.png

 

Sweet idea though, can't wait to see the results.

CPU: Intel i7 - 5820k @ 4.5GHz, Cooler: Corsair H80i, Motherboard: MSI X99S Gaming 7, RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB DDR4 2666MHz CL16,

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16 minutes ago, trag1c said:

I personally would have skipped propane and went straight to MAPP gas and possibly added oxygen with one of those mini brazing/heating torches for much higher combustion temperatures just to speed things up with brazing. I also probably would have done TIG but that can be prohibitive for most people.

 

image.thumb.png.d79538a19db25bca485004215afce725.png

 

Sweet idea though, can't wait to see the results.

+1 on the mapp gas, oxygen likely isn't needed, but mapp will be worlds easier than propane.  

 

brazing will almost always be easier for a beginner, and less of a buy in cost than a welder and the other necessary materials. 

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26 minutes ago, trag1c said:

I personally would have skipped propane and went straight to MAPP gas and possibly added oxygen with one of those mini brazing/heating torches for much higher combustion temperatures just to speed things up with brazing. I also probably would have done TIG but that can be prohibitive for most people.

 

Sweet idea though, can't wait to see the results.

 

Just now, Letgomyleghoe said:

+1 on the mapp gas, oxygen likely isn't needed, but mapp will be worlds easier than propane.  

 

brazing will almost always be easier for a beginner, and less of a buy in cost than a welder and the other necessary materials. 

 

I investigated both TIG and MAPP prior to buying everything I needed.

 

I quickly found out the cost associated with TIG was more than I was willing to spend. At those prices I was better off using bolts & screws. Not only that but the material I have here is only 1/16th of an inch thick. TIG would have blown a hole right through it.

 

As for Propane vs MAPP. I opted for Propane for two reasons:

  1. I'm a greenhorn at this. I want that overhead where I'm less likely to melt the parent metal (aluminum melts at a pretty low temperature). If I find myself doing this again and I feel a little more confident I'll look into MAPP.
  2. I could buy three cylinders of Propane for the price of 1 cylinder of MAPP. Even if it takes longer to heat-up at 1/16th of an inch thick I don't think I'll run out of gas before it's ready to braze.
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Getting started today I'm working with a Craftsmen Sliding Compound Miter saw really meant for cutting wood but Aluminum is pretty soft.

 

DSCF0023.thumb.JPG.19f670f9922122d49f316121ab3c5f46.JPG

 

It's meant for 12" metal blades but for testing I have a 10" abrasive blade mounted up. Using it to test cut the aluminum really shows off the properties that aluminum is more like bubblegum than a real metal. Instead of cutting the abrasive blade more or less "pushed" the material out of the way and made a pretty ugly cut.

 

DSCF0024.thumb.JPG.397d42197d3e146232fee2384d5f4ef7.JPG

 

We're going to do a 2nd test cut but using the spare 12" metal blade I have. If it makes a cleaner cut we'll have something that is faster/easier to work with when it comes time to prepping the joints for brazing.

 

Given the TPI of the blade I have is only 40 which is a wood cutting blade we're going to cheat a little by driving the blade in reverse and see if that gives us a better result that the abrasive blade.

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14 minutes ago, Windows7ge said:

properties that aluminum is more like bubblegum than a real metal.

With aluminum you're going to want to use more coolant than you think necessary. Even WD40 is good for this. Then cut as slow as possible. 

For reference, when I make lowers at home I can get away with 1/16th inch milling passes on steel, but with aluminum I'm using about twice as much WD40 to keep my bit cool and taking at most 1/32 inch, with the finishing pass being even less than that.

I'm not actually trying to be as grumpy as it seems.

I will find your mentions of Ikea or Gnome and I will /s post. 

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Why is the 5800x so hot?

 

 

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5 minutes ago, IkeaGnome said:

With aluminum you're going to want to use more coolant than you think necessary. Even WD40 is good for this. Then cut as slow as possible. 

For reference, when I make lowers at home I can get away with 1/16th inch milling passes on steel, but with aluminum I'm using about twice as much WD40 to keep my bit cool and taking at most 1/32 inch, with the finishing pass being even less than that.

I have access to WD-40. Just a squirt or two before I cut?

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1 minute ago, Windows7ge said:

I have access to WD-40. Just a squirt or two before I cut?

The more the better. Aluminum melts at half the temperature of steel. Granted you aren't getting to melting temps, but it gives you an idea of how fragile aluminum really is.

I'm not actually trying to be as grumpy as it seems.

I will find your mentions of Ikea or Gnome and I will /s post. 

Project Hot Box

CPU 13900k, Motherboard Gigabyte Aorus Elite AX, RAM CORSAIR Vengeance 4x16gb 5200 MHZ, GPU Zotac RTX 4090 Trinity OC, Case Fractal Pop Air XL, Storage Sabrent Rocket Q4 2tbCORSAIR Force Series MP510 1920GB NVMe, CORSAIR FORCE Series MP510 960GB NVMe, PSU CORSAIR HX1000i, Cooling Corsair XC8 CPU block, Bykski GPU block, 360mm and 280mm radiator, Displays Odyssey G9, LG 34UC98-W 34-Inch,Keyboard Mountain Everest Max, Mouse Mountain Makalu 67, Sound AT2035, Massdrop 6xx headphones, Go XLR 

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Why is the 5800x so hot?

 

 

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3 minutes ago, IkeaGnome said:

The more the better. Aluminum melts at half the temperature of steel. Granted you aren't getting to melting temps, but it gives you an idea of how fragile aluminum really is.

I was told is an unforgiving metal to work with (cut/weld/braze). I'm up for the challenge though. >:)

 

I'll lay down some WD-40 and take the cut slow. I've go the metal blade mounted up backwards and I'll clamp down the material.

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Yikes. I thought the metal cutting blade you bought was toothed lol. Also when you're cutting that aluminium make sure to wear a mask since the dust and fumes from grinding, welding or torching aluminum are no bueno.

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Just now, Windows7ge said:

I was told is an unforgiving metal to work with (cut/weld/braze). I'm up for the challenge though. >:)

 

I'll lay down some WD-40 and take the cut slow. I've go the metal blade mounted up backwards and I'll clamp down the material.

It is. It also fouls everything up. Blades, bits, files. About the easiest way to clean up rough edges I've found is with a deburring tool similar to this. It doesn't have a rough surface like sand paper or grinding wheels that the bits can get stuck in.

https://www.amazon.com/Deburring-Aluminum-Plastic-Removing-STARVAST/dp/B07R4Y5819

I'm not actually trying to be as grumpy as it seems.

I will find your mentions of Ikea or Gnome and I will /s post. 

Project Hot Box

CPU 13900k, Motherboard Gigabyte Aorus Elite AX, RAM CORSAIR Vengeance 4x16gb 5200 MHZ, GPU Zotac RTX 4090 Trinity OC, Case Fractal Pop Air XL, Storage Sabrent Rocket Q4 2tbCORSAIR Force Series MP510 1920GB NVMe, CORSAIR FORCE Series MP510 960GB NVMe, PSU CORSAIR HX1000i, Cooling Corsair XC8 CPU block, Bykski GPU block, 360mm and 280mm radiator, Displays Odyssey G9, LG 34UC98-W 34-Inch,Keyboard Mountain Everest Max, Mouse Mountain Makalu 67, Sound AT2035, Massdrop 6xx headphones, Go XLR 

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Why is the 5800x so hot?

 

 

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+1 on the deburring tool. Aluminium is soft enough that you can use them to great effect.

CPU: Intel i7 - 5820k @ 4.5GHz, Cooler: Corsair H80i, Motherboard: MSI X99S Gaming 7, RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB DDR4 2666MHz CL16,

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2 minutes ago, trag1c said:

Yikes. I thought the metal cutting blade you bought was toothed lol. Also when you're cutting that aluminium make sure to wear a mask since the dust and fumes from grinding, welding or torching aluminum are no bueno.

I was looking around for proper blades but due to the age of this saw it uses a 1" mounting hole and all of the craftsmen have moved to the 5/8" standard. I can mount abrasive wheels and wood cutting blades.

 

The blade I have is a "throw away" I was told aluminum will dull it right up but we're going into this with that knowledge in mind.

 

4 minutes ago, IkeaGnome said:

It is. It also fouls everything up. Blades, bits, files. About the easiest way to clean up rough edges I've found is with a deburring tool similar to this. It doesn't have a rough surface like sand paper or grinding wheels that the bits can get stuck in.

https://www.amazon.com/Deburring-Aluminum-Plastic-Removing-STARVAST/dp/B07R4Y5819

I was looking at those and de-burring is something I know I'm going to have to work around. Didn't spot one in the store though. I'm thinking I might be able to get away with a sharp metal blade even if I have to sharpen it up again when I'm done.

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It still pushed the material (what can I expect using something how it wasn't intended). It looks like in either circumstance I'm going to have quite a bit of cleanup to do.

 

DSCF0025.thumb.JPG.185474e81471120d25a36d50aff5a3c5.JPG 

 

I could try turning the wood blade around so it actually cuts/takes bites but then I guess I have to worry about it grabbing and doing something really bad. Even then I don't yet know if that would make any cleaner of a cut.

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OK, I see why it did what it did. There is aluminum bits stuck to each tooth on the saw so it stopped cutting and just started pushing the material.

 

I might be better off with the abrasive wheel here. Not as much stuck to it during the test cut I just have to prop up the part because it's a 10" wheel on a 12" saw.

 

Downside of the abrasive though is I saw it deflect while cutting the material which means the length of each of my cuts will be slightly skewed. I can compensate for that in the design though.

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You could always return to the tried and true hacksaw with miter box. Should result in a very clean cut. 

CPU: Intel i7 - 5820k @ 4.5GHz, Cooler: Corsair H80i, Motherboard: MSI X99S Gaming 7, RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB DDR4 2666MHz CL16,

GPU: ASUS GTX 980 Strix, Case: Corsair 900D, PSU: Corsair AX860i 860W, Keyboard: Logitech G19, Mouse: Corsair M95, Storage: Intel 730 Series 480GB SSD, WD 1.5TB Black

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You also might be better off with a more aggressive cut with the miter saw. Essentially trying to increase the chip size so that they carry heat away from the aluminium.

CPU: Intel i7 - 5820k @ 4.5GHz, Cooler: Corsair H80i, Motherboard: MSI X99S Gaming 7, RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB DDR4 2666MHz CL16,

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18 minutes ago, trag1c said:

You could always return to the tried and true hacksaw with miter box. Should result in a very clean cut. 

That's not yet out of the question. I have a hacksaw. We had a miter box. I think the old man threw it out though...

 

Edit: He bought a new one.

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Test cut with Miter Box & hacksaw.

 

Quality: 1000x better.

Cons: My poor arms.

 

DSCF0026.thumb.JPG.619fe2e0bd58489450fe43c37ecee64f.JPG

 

Well would you look at that. Proper equipment doing a better job than improper equipment? Would would have though? 🙃

 

I made this cut at the 19" mark. We need 480mm (18.8976"). For the accuracy I'm after we can round that up to 18.9" and 1/10th of an inch is 2.54mm so with a pair of calipers I'll mark off 2.5mm and make another cut.

 

For the sake of making things easier on me I think I'll take it off the ugly end. Close in on the planned final dimensions.

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22 minutes ago, Windows7ge said:

Test cut with Miter Box & hacksaw.

 

Quality: 1000x better.

Cons: My poor arms.

 

Well would you look at that. Proper equipment doing a better job than improper equipment? Would would have though? 🙃

 

I made this cut at the 19" mark. We need 480mm (18.8976"). For the accuracy I'm after we can round that up to 18.9" and 1/10th of an inch is 2.54mm so with a pair of calipers I'll mark off 2.5mm and make another cut.

 

For the sake of making things easier on me I think I'll take it off the ugly end. Close in on the planned final dimensions.

Well done! Quick clean up with a file after your cuts and she will be looking might fine. 

 

RIP arms lol... There's bit of an art to using a hacksaw that once you figure it out, it becomes effortless. All about keeping the correct angle for the blade, not twisting as you go and not trying to force it. Just let the blade do all the work. Also keeping the blade and work piece oiled will keep temps down ensuring that the blade stays sharp.

CPU: Intel i7 - 5820k @ 4.5GHz, Cooler: Corsair H80i, Motherboard: MSI X99S Gaming 7, RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB DDR4 2666MHz CL16,

GPU: ASUS GTX 980 Strix, Case: Corsair 900D, PSU: Corsair AX860i 860W, Keyboard: Logitech G19, Mouse: Corsair M95, Storage: Intel 730 Series 480GB SSD, WD 1.5TB Black

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Test fitting this piece up on the radiator I'm off by about 1.5mm in the short department (maybe I should have kept the 2.5 on there...). There's a few ways I can approach this issue.

  1. I did the measurements and being short 1.5mm should still work. I could ignore it.
  2. I could re-purpose this piece as the support arms for the radiators themselves.
  3. I could make up for it when I braze. Purposefully leaving a small gap in the setup then fill it.

I'm leaning towards 3...

 

45 minutes ago, trag1c said:

Well done! Quick clean up with a file after your cuts and she will be looking might fine. 

 

RIP arms lol... There's bit of an art to using a hacksaw that once you figure it out, it becomes effortless. All about keeping the correct angle for the blade, not twisting as you go and not trying to force it. Just let the blade do all the work. Also keeping the blade and work piece oiled will keep temps down ensuring that the blade stays sharp.

Combination of a file and a old 3" steel folding knife I have laying around. It works well for removing the burr. If I have to re-sharpen it later it's no biggie.

 

I don't have any special cutting oil around but WD-40 to the rescue I guess.

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I'm not going to bore everyone with every single cut but I now have a somewhat square frame.

 

DSCF0029.thumb.JPG.c1ce6e952fcd2e24afc5b728a8b2f85e.JPG

 

I actually had another option available to me with the 1.5mm shot cut (top/bottom). I repurposed it for one of the sides (left/right cuts)

 

Using a tape measure going from corner to opposing corner I measured an squareness error of 1/16th" (1.5875mm) which is small enough to where it could be a combination of things but I measured each pair from their respective 45° face and both pairs are identical in length so it's square enough for me. :old-grin:

 

Neat thing I learned. If I'm cutting the 2nd of a matching part I can clamp the 2nd part in the miter box and cut along the 1st piece. It acts as a guide to stop the hack saw from walking and makes sure the 2nd piece is the same length as the 1st.

 

Also WD-40 makes the cutting go SO MUCH SMOOTHER. I don't feel like I'm fighting the Miter box. 😅

 

Next part to work on is going to be the four parallel support arms. These need to be drilled so screws can go through them for the radiator mounts. This is going to involve some quick & dirty 3D printing. I can make guides that guarantee the holes are made exactly where they need to be.

 

However I think I'm going to make a design change. Instead of making strait holes I'm going to make slots. This will give me room for inaccuracy in the width of the radiator mounting holes along with giving me a means to adjust it if I need a little bit of clearance on either side of this apparatus. With this I only need to make sure the mounting holes forward & back are as close to 105mm in distance as I can accurately make it.

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1 minute ago, Windows7ge said:

Using a tape measure going from corner to opposing corner I measured an squareness error of 1/16th" (1.5875mm) which is small enough to where it could be a combination of things but I measured each pair from their respective 45° face and both pairs are identical in length so it's square enough for me

That's insanely accurate for first time with aluminum!

2 minutes ago, Windows7ge said:

Also WD-40 makes the cutting go SO MUCH SMOOTHER. I don't feel like I'm fighting the Miter box.

Easy work makes better work and happier you. Glad the WD-40 is working well!

3 minutes ago, Windows7ge said:

This will give me room for inaccuracy in the width of the radiator mounting holes along with giving me a means to adjust it if I need a little bit of clearance on either side of this apparatus.

Nah, see. You call it 2.0 and call it adjustable. It was planned like that all along.

I'm not actually trying to be as grumpy as it seems.

I will find your mentions of Ikea or Gnome and I will /s post. 

Project Hot Box

CPU 13900k, Motherboard Gigabyte Aorus Elite AX, RAM CORSAIR Vengeance 4x16gb 5200 MHZ, GPU Zotac RTX 4090 Trinity OC, Case Fractal Pop Air XL, Storage Sabrent Rocket Q4 2tbCORSAIR Force Series MP510 1920GB NVMe, CORSAIR FORCE Series MP510 960GB NVMe, PSU CORSAIR HX1000i, Cooling Corsair XC8 CPU block, Bykski GPU block, 360mm and 280mm radiator, Displays Odyssey G9, LG 34UC98-W 34-Inch,Keyboard Mountain Everest Max, Mouse Mountain Makalu 67, Sound AT2035, Massdrop 6xx headphones, Go XLR 

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Why is the 5800x so hot?

 

 

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Think I'm gonna hang it up for the night but it could have ended on a higher note. I have a question.

 

So where I'm at right now is I'm looking at my test pieces for the fours support arms but I've noticed very quickly the miter box in combination with a hack saw doesn't make the straightest cuts. My support arms are crooked.

 

I have some flat factory edges left which I plan to take advantage of but I could really use a means to flatten my own cuts. I don't have a table grinder so I'm thinking to pull this off I'm going to have to improvise.

 

The question is how though? I have a moderate sized metal file and some sharpening stones. I also have some perfectly 90° objects. I'm wondering if I could clamp the part and possible use the flat surfaces as my reference and file the aluminum down somehow?

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You mentioned having a 3d printer. If that's a normal file it'll have the rounded edge that might mess with you. Would it be possible to print something out that complements that angle, attach the file to something that's 90 degrees and use that to file? 

I'm not actually trying to be as grumpy as it seems.

I will find your mentions of Ikea or Gnome and I will /s post. 

Project Hot Box

CPU 13900k, Motherboard Gigabyte Aorus Elite AX, RAM CORSAIR Vengeance 4x16gb 5200 MHZ, GPU Zotac RTX 4090 Trinity OC, Case Fractal Pop Air XL, Storage Sabrent Rocket Q4 2tbCORSAIR Force Series MP510 1920GB NVMe, CORSAIR FORCE Series MP510 960GB NVMe, PSU CORSAIR HX1000i, Cooling Corsair XC8 CPU block, Bykski GPU block, 360mm and 280mm radiator, Displays Odyssey G9, LG 34UC98-W 34-Inch,Keyboard Mountain Everest Max, Mouse Mountain Makalu 67, Sound AT2035, Massdrop 6xx headphones, Go XLR 

Oppbevaring

CPU i9-9900k, Motherboard, ASUS Rog Maximus Code XI, RAM, 48GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB 3200 mhz (2x16)+(2x8) GPUs Asus ROG Strix 2070 8gb, PNY 1080, Nvidia 1080, Case Mining Frame, 2x Storage Samsung 860 Evo 500 GB, PSU Corsair RM1000x and RM850x, Cooling Asus Rog Ryuo 240 with Noctua NF-12 fans

 

Why is the 5800x so hot?

 

 

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