Best way to watercool a Gigabyte 3070?

[Mark Kaine]

I already made a topic asking about specific coolers and the conclusion was kind of "it doesn't work for Gigabyte GPU"  but i somehow don't really believe this wouldn't work with an NZXT kraken bracket for example (with some CPU AIO)? And why wouldn't it? 

 

And what other options do I have with this GPU? 

 

 

 

 

[bowrilla]

It's a 3070, so it's not really necessary, therefore many manufacturers do not offer any or if then only reference design blocks. EK does not offer anything for your Gigabyte 3070 Vision OC, Watercool does not offer any 3070 blocks (officially at least, you might be lucky but it's try and error), Alphacool hasn't anything either. So your last hope for a full cover would be Bykski or Barrow (or DIY). 

 

The NZXT G12 bracket does not list any 30 series GPUs on their compatibility list and even the 20 series cards are only supported with reference PCB - which you'd know if you'd done some research on that bracket. It could work or just not - I wouldn't expect to be lucky here. 

[Shoopman]

Why both water cooling a 3070? You could spend the money you would have used for cooling parts on a 3080 instead.

[Mark Kaine]

1 hour ago, bowrilla said:

It's a 3070, so it's not really necessary,

 

1 hour ago, Shoopman said:

Why both water cooling a 3070?

Because the cooler is kind of garbage, it's maybe 'only' 70C max but that's way too toasty for me and also far into Nvidia 'boost' downclocking territory (starts around 50C btw, although every thing under 60C is still acceptable in my opinion)

 

1 hour ago, bowrilla said:

The NZXT G12 bracket does not list any 30 series GPUs on their compatibility

I see,  I thought I read some 30xx are compatible,  but didn't see which. 

 

1 hour ago, bowrilla said:

EK does not offer anything for your Gigabyte 3070 Vision OC, Watercool does not offer any 3070 blocks (officially at least, you might be lucky but it's try and error), Alphacool hasn't anything either. So your last hope for a full cover would be Bykski or Barrow (or DIY). 

Yeah, exactly,  it seems really hard to impossible finding any solution for an AOI  for this card... i thought its way more common,  and in hindsight this Vision OC was kind of a mistake,  for 200 more i could have gotten a Vulcan,  which runs a lot more cooler (despite the name lol)

 

1 hour ago, Shoopman said:

You could spend the money you would have used for cooling parts on a 3080 instead.

Yes, because a hotter card is the solution for a hot card... and I doubt an AIO (if it exists) costs 700 or so euros what a 3080 would have cost more,  so I don't really get that suggestion tbh.

 

Sure,  i could maybe have gotten a water block more easily,  but also probably spent way over 1000 euros or so more. 

 

 

1 hour ago, bowrilla said:

or DIY

Tbh, I have no idea whatsoever how to do that... i thought maybe I would have to use some jatztwocents techniques to make it fit (aka raw force lol) which I personally would see as " exotic"  but a "DIY" solution,  I have no idea how that'd look and it sounds messy...

 

 

My only real option seems to be  3 92mm noctua fans and some zip ties...  guaranteed to be better than the ghetto fans from gigabyte. 

[bowrilla]

40 minutes ago, Mark Kaine said:

Yes, because a hotter card is the solution for a hot card... and I doubt an AIO (if it exists) costs 700 or so euros what a 3080 would have cost more,  so I don't really get that suggestion tbh.

I was referring to a more "normal" market with prices that are not obscenely overinflated. And stepping up the GPU game means less load and less temps for the same performance. Even with a throttling 3080 you'd be better off then a 3070 that can go to its limits.

 

43 minutes ago, Mark Kaine said:

Tbh, I have no idea whatsoever how to do that... i thought maybe I would have to use some jatztwocents techniques to make it fit (aka raw force lol) which I personally would see as " exotic"  but a "DIY" solution,  I have no idea how that'd look and it sounds messy...

Proper 3d CAD program, measurements off the current cooler, copper block into the CNC router and then either a acetal or acrylic block for the top. If you know what you're doing and with no mistakes, probably 300-500 bucks.

 

46 minutes ago, Mark Kaine said:

Because the cooler is kind of garbage, it's maybe 'only' 70C max but that's way too toasty for me and also far into Nvidia 'boost' downclocking territory (starts around 50C btw, although every thing under 60C is still acceptable in my opinion)

I'm pretty sure you overestimate the gains you can get ... 70C for a GPU under load us totally fine. And I'm pretty sure tge potential gains are in the single digit percent range. Before investing several hundreds of bucks into some water-cooling for your GPU, you should make sure your case is well ventilated and overall case temps aren't too high. High case temps lead to higher GPU temps.

[Mark Kaine]

35 minutes ago, bowrilla said:

I was referring to a more "normal" market with prices that are not obscenely overinflated

I see... but even back when I got the gigabyte for 700 (which is quite ok,  especially compared to now) a 3080 was easily over 1000, so not really an option, even the 3070 Vulcan was a bit much at 900,  in hindsight I'm sure it would have been the best choice, outside of a 3080FE maybe,  but alas...

 

39 minutes ago, bowrilla said:

Proper 3d CAD program, measurements off the current cooler, copper block into the CNC router and then either a acetal or acrylic block for the top. If you know what you're doing and with no mistakes, probably 300-500 bucks.

Ok, yeah, I can't do any of that,  hence a cheap'ish AIO would be perfect. 

 

I mean, I was half serious about the Jayztwocents method... I've seen him make a G12 fit that initially didn't fit at all... but even that requires more knowledge than I have,  but still,  i could probably do it.  But it's also true it would likely get expensive,  need to buy a dremel and whatnot lol...

 

42 minutes ago, bowrilla said:

I'm pretty sure you overestimate the gains you can get ... 70C for a GPU under load us totally fine. And I'm pretty sure tge potential gains are in the single digit percent range. Before investing several hundreds of bucks into some water-cooling for your GPU, you should make sure your case is well ventilated and overall case temps aren't too high. High case temps lead to higher GPU temps.

Good point about the case, I already have plans for a new'ish build,  better case with mesh front and probably a 10700k, it might just do the trick... My enquiry about an AIO is more out of curiosity, and a possible 'solution' if a better case doesn't cut it... and it seems really strange there aren't any offerings for 3070 cards... I always thought the G12 would be a one size fits all solution (if you have a dremel...)  but seems I was probably wrong about that. 

 

And I agree, if a better case makes everything a bit cooler an expensive water cooling solution might be totally unnecessary. 

 

 

[Shoopman]

13 hours ago, Mark Kaine said:

Because the cooler is kind of garbage, it's maybe 'only' 70C max but that's way too toasty for me and also far into Nvidia 'boost' downclocking territory (starts around 50C btw, although every thing under 60C is still acceptable in my opinion)

Gonna be blunt, you are being completely unreasonable. 70C is not hot by any means, you need to significantly increase your threshold for what "too toasty" means. Your FPS isn't going to magically double if your card is 5 degrees cooler, that's just not how it works. Similarly, your FPS will not completely tank if your card gets hotter, nor will running at 70C all the time lower the lifespan of the card.

 

Again, if you are THAT concerned with squeezing out every single last frame of performance, you need to get a better GPU, not a water cooling loop. Water cooling your card will at best yield a single digit performance boost. You are wasting your time and money on a problem that doesn't exist.

[Stahlmann]

19 minutes ago, Shoopman said:

Gonna be blunt, you are being completely unreasonable. 70C is not hot by any means, you need to significantly increase your threshold for what "too toasty" means. Your FPS isn't going to magically double if your card is 5 degrees cooler, that's just not how it works. Your FPS will not completely tank if your card gets hotter, nor will running at 70C all the time lower the lifespan of the card.

 

Again, if you are THAT concerned with squeezing out every single last frame of performance, you need to get a better GPU, not a water cooling loop. Water cooling your card will at best yield a single digit performance boost. You are wasting your time and money on a problem that doesn't exist.

^This^

 

70°C is a completely normal operating temperature for a GPU. Heck, i wouldn't even worry when it reaches 80°C while gaming. Imho you're just unreasonable if you want to achieve under 60°C with an air cooler. And if you can achieve it with any air cooler, the noise would be unbearable. Sure, the GPU will downclock slightly when reaching higher temps, but nothing significant by any means. If you are concerned that much by the little bit of performance you'd gain by lowering temps, you should just get a faster GPU to begin with and not bother with a full custom loop.

[Mark Kaine]

1 hour ago, Shoopman said:

Your FPS isn't going to magically double

And where did I say it would?   Maybe don't make up stuff if you want to discuss something,  this way of arguing brings your credibility to exactly zero,  and makes discussing anything pointless. 

And to be clear, I don't need a stronger card, this card is already too strong in most situations,  the problem is it's too hot. 

 

39 minutes ago, Stahlmann said:

you're just unreasonable if you want to achieve under 60°C with an air cooler.

Ah, but then please explain why my 1050ti, 1060 and 1070 all stay well below 60C, even overclocked...

 

I mean I understand different cards will be different,  but expecting what I'm already used to isn't really unreasonable? 

 

Also if you look at reviews usual temps for 3070 is definitely *below* 70, sometimes even below 60... depending on model of course,  so again I don't think it's unreasonable. 

 

I rather think something is wrong with this card,  besides the apparently weak fans (my other nvidia cards have considerably more efficient fans / cooling, that's just a fact*) I also have a feeling maybe something wrong with the cooling pads, but I'd need to open it up to be sure about that. 

 

Lastly, from doing some research, just slapping some noctua fans on it should be good for 10-20C, which is all I want, I just thought an AIO would be a more elegant solution,  but in the end how doesn't matter, and if I get slightly better performance, fine,  but that's not my main concern,  that's,  as should be obvious by now,  temps. 

 

I'm also probably trying a different case, although I'm not confident that actually does much, better cooling on the card itself would be more effective for sure. 

 

 

*also this GPU is incredibly lightweight... suspiciously so, and it's therfore not surprising the cooling efficiency is poor. 

 

It's usable for sure but I'd like to improve it,  rather than buying a new card,  which would be indeed highly 'unreasonable'.

 

[Stahlmann]

Just now, Mark Kaine said:

Ah, but then please explain why my 1050ti, 1060 and 1070 all stay well below 60C, even overclocked...

 

I mean I understand different cards will be different,  but expecting what I'm already used to isn't really unreasonable?

These are MUCH lower powered cards than a 3070... Of course they will output less heat and stay cooler.

 

1 minute ago, Mark Kaine said:

Also if you look at reviews usual temps for 3070 is definitely *below* 70, sometimes even below 60... depending on model of course,  so again I don't think it's unreasonable.

Can you elaborate? Which case, which fan speed etc.? Imo it doesn't matter if a cooler can run a GPU under 60°C if the fans are running at full blast. In fact most GPUs have their BIOS configured in a way that will keep them around 70-75°C under load when the used doesn't set custom fan curves. The models that run under 60°C are probalby ones like Asus Strix and MSI Gaming X models running at full blast. You can't expect to have your rather "Budget" 3070 variant to match them in cooler performance. (Plus Gigabyte is absolutely not known to have top coolers).

 

5 minutes ago, Mark Kaine said:

Lastly, from doing some research, just slapping some noctua fans on it should be good for 10-20C, which is all I want, I just thought an AIO would be a more elegant solution,  but in the end how doesn't matter, and if I get slightly better performance, fine,  but that's not my main concern,  that's,  as should be obvious by now,  temps. 

 

I'm also probably trying a different case, although I'm not confident that actually does much, better cooling on the card itself would be more effective for sure. 

Well you have said multiple times that lower temps is what you want. But do you have any particular reason? Don't expect your GPU to hold up significantly longer just because it's running at 60°C compared to 70°C. Don't expect your performance to be significantly different either. You are well below any throttling temperature and the GPU doesn't need to run at 50°C to have it's advertised performance. Just saying you don't feel comfortable running it at 70°C is not a real resaon, as (like the others also said) it's a completely normal operating temperature for a modern (especially Ampere) GPU. They are literally DESIGNED to run at these temps.

[Shoopman]

15 minutes ago, Mark Kaine said:

And to be clear, I don't need a stronger card, this card is already too strong in most situations,  the problem is it's too hot.

You're just not getting it dude. 70C is not hot and is not a reason for concern at all. Idk where you're getting your information from, but whoever is telling you that 70C is a too hot is wrong. If performance isn't the problem, then what is? Are you afraid you card will die sooner because it's too hot? Absolutely not, 70C is more than a safe temp. You will more than likely never keep a card long enough to see it die on its own, especially if you owned a 1050ti, 1060, and 1070. Clearly you are buying new cards fairly often. Even if somehow 70C was too hot, you would likely not see the effects of it for years. It's not like you run your card too hot for 5 minutes and it instantly dies. The quality of the silicon degrades very slowly over time, and even then it's hard to definitively say how much it reduces the lifespan of any given card because of natural variations in silicon quality. It's entirely possible that a low quality sample dies before a high quality sample, even if the high quality one was OC'd the entire time.

18 minutes ago, Mark Kaine said:

Ah, but then please explain why my 1050ti, 1060 and 1070 all stay well below 60C, even overclocked...

Your logic is flawed in regards to your older cards. All those cards had a vastly lower TDP than the 3070. 30 series cards are very power hungry, and as such, produce a lot more heat that previous generations. Just because the card you have now is different doesn't mean its a problem.

 

31 minutes ago, Mark Kaine said:

Also if you look at reviews usual temps for 3070 is definitely *below* 70, sometimes even below 60... depending on model of course,  so again I don't think it's unreasonable. 

Comparing your own temps to those of others does not provide perfect information. Unless that person is using the exact same setup as you (case, fans, fan position, exact GPU model, CPU/CPU cooler, other parts, etc), and lives in the same climate, and is using the same workload, the results are not very meaningful. Sure you can determine some sort of general range that you should expect, but that's all you can take from it. Most reviewers test with the maximum possible airflow, so if you don't have that maybe you should get a new case.

 

For the last time, your problem is imaginary and exists entirely in your own head. You are not used to seeing 70C temps so you are concerned, when there is no reason to be. Even 80C isn't a big cause for concern. My 980Ti ran at 82-83C under high load and is still kicking 6 years later. GPUs are literally designed to run at these temps, it's not like Nvidia sets a 70C ceiling and says "not my problem if it gets hotter than that". No, they engineer their cards to run safely at very high temps so that the vast majority of people will have zero problems with throttling.

 

You don't need to do anything. Replace your case if that makes you feel better, but trying an exotic cooling solution when you are getting 70C is a fool's errand. Just enjoy the card and stop worrying about temps.

[Mark Kaine]

48 minutes ago, Stahlmann said:

These are MUCH lower powered cards than a 3070... Of course they will output less heat and stay cooler.

That doesn't necessarily matter though,  my EVGA 1070 ran actually hotter than the Gigabyte 3070 *at default settings* the difference was it had a much beefier cooler and it was easy to get temps under control with just a slightly higher fan curve (not even close to 'full blast') doing the same with the 3070 yields almost no improvements,  in fact I'd need to set the fans to like 95% to get some noticeable improvements,  which simply means the cooler is weak and inadequate... would probably work well on a GTX 1060... 

 

48 minutes ago, Stahlmann said:

Can you elaborate? Which case, which fan speed etc.

As far I remember at stock settings, of course it will vary from model to model, that's true. 

 

48 minutes ago, Stahlmann said:

The models that run under 60°C are probalby ones like Asus Strix and MSI Gaming X models running at full blast.

Funny enough, my card does run under 60 when I put the fans to 100 (during firestrike even) so i doubt that,  and that is also kind of the problem,  the difference between say 80% and 100% is *huge* it feels like the cooler is really only to start working properly close to 100, hence,  in comparison, it feels very inadequate,  the light weight of the card doesn't help of course,  feels like they mostly used aluminum instead of copper. 

 

48 minutes ago, Stahlmann said:

Plus Gigabyte is absolutely not known to have top coolers

Which is obviously the main problem here,  and since I can't just buy another card, I want to find a solution, as said I'm quite confident good old noctuas will do the trick... I really have to see which ones,  I'd prefer redux (cheap) but they don't really have normal looking 92mm fans,  maybe 2 120mm fans would work though,  not sure about that...

 

48 minutes ago, Stahlmann said:

They are literally DESIGNED to run at these temps.

That goes for pretty much all recent NV GPU series however,  doesn't mean they can't run cooler or that there aren't significant differences between models and cooling solutions.

 

PS: as I recall I even made a thread here before I bought the card asking about temps, and the answers were like "it's fine" "gigabyte are great!"... Yada yada... going to see if I can dig it up... and I'm not blaming anyone, I looked at reviews and such too,  the card appeared to be midfield level all around, just saying had I actually known this I would have for sure spent the 200 more for an igame (which *do* run significantly cooler with higher boost clocks)

 

You make some good points,  but it's clear it can be cooler,  and I'm indeed not comfortable at all with a hot running GPU in my PC, and it's winter,  it's only going to get worse in summer...

 

 

I really hope the plan with the noctuas will work , since an AIO is apparently asking too much sadly. 

[Stahlmann]

2 minutes ago, Mark Kaine said:

I really hope the plan with the noctuas will work , since an AIO is apparently asking too much sadly. 

If it helps at all i've had a 1080Ti in the past where i got rid of the blower cooler and replaced it with a Raijintek Morpheus II with 2 Noctua NF-F12 fans. The result was insane and these 2 noctua fans on this heatsink performed heaps better than even the best AiB cards from Asus, etc. But i don't think this GPU heatsink is compatible with RTX 3000 GPUs.

[bowrilla]

54 minutes ago, Mark Kaine said:

the problem is it's too hot. 

it's not. But if you don't need the power, then just user afterburner and lower the power limit.

 

55 minutes ago, Mark Kaine said:

Ah, but then please explain why my 1050ti, 1060 and 1070 all stay well below 60C, even overclocked...

1070 has a TDP of 150W while the 3070 has a TDP of 220W. That's why.

 

56 minutes ago, Mark Kaine said:

Also if you look at reviews usual temps for 3070 is definitely *below* 70, sometimes even below 60

Which reviews? Under what kind of testing environments? 

57 minutes ago, Mark Kaine said:

I'm also probably trying a different case, although I'm not confident that actually does much, better cooling on the card itself would be more effective for sure. 

No. Your GPU takes in the air from within your case. The higher the case temps the lower the ΔT between cooling medium (air) and the heat source (cooling fins) and therefore the lower the efficiency of the heat transfer. Without you giving any readings with proper tools like HWInfo64 that include case temps and a proper reading of your room temp, there is nothing else to discuss. General rule: first improve case temps, then battle any remaining heat issues on specific components. If your case sucks, no AiO or custom loop will magically solve your issues. You always need to transfer heat energy and ultimately it will eventually end up in the air you exhaust from your case.

[Mark Kaine]

34 minutes ago, bowrilla said:

it's not. But if you don't need the power, then just user afterburner and lower the power limi

Already did it's running at 930mv (see sig) which keeps it under 60C in most games, but I don't really see this as a long term solution as some games obviously require more power ,especially going forward. 

 

34 minutes ago, bowrilla said:

Your GPU takes in the air from within your case.

Wrong. INWIN 301 has a bottom intake and there's more than enough room for fresh air getting to the GPU directly,  it's basically pretty much isolated from the rest of the case,  even though it will of course be cooled by the front intakes as well.  All my previous cards ran significantly cooler than they should have,  the 3070 is the odd man out here (fact)

 

34 minutes ago, bowrilla said:

1070 has a TDP of 150W while the 3070 has a TDP of 220W. That's why.

 

My  1070 had TDP of 220w and my 3070 has TDP of 270w ...

 

So same difference perhaps,  but that only goes to show that a higher powered card needs a beefier cooler,  not a weaker one, the 1070 was weighing probably twice as much for a reason (gotta give EVGA credit here)

 

34 minutes ago, bowrilla said:

General rule: first improve case temps, then battle any remaining heat issues on specific components

Despite what I said above,  i agree the case could play a role here,  I've already said I'm going to try a mesh case... but I still think better cooler/ fans will have a bigger impact here. 

 

The fans are incredibly weak and inadequate. Can only repeat myself here lol.

 

I even have intake fans directly under the GPU,  which are in fact good for 5C lower temps,  which is "great" but also only emphasizes how hot the card really is (and I'm really curious about the cooling pads,  still kinda my number one suspicion what's wrong with this card,  have heard enough horror stories about missing and inadequate pads already)

 

 

 

37 minutes ago, Stahlmann said:

If it helps at all i've had a 1080Ti in the past where i got rid of the blower cooler and replaced it with a Raijintek Morpheus II with 2 Noctua NF-F12 fans. The result was insane and these 2 noctua fans on this heatsink performed heaps better than even the best AiB cards from Asus, etc. But i don't think this GPU heatsink is compatible with RTX 3000 GPUs.

Yeah, that's another thing,  maybe I should just wait... ? What are the chances they'll release those for 3000 cards as well...?  Of course since the cards aren't exactly sold in masses (to gamers) i might as well wait forever... not sure. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[bowrilla]

You know, not giving more infos on your system, your precise configuration, your environment and anything and ignoring most of the infos it seems to me this thread is basically going nowhere. You insist on your GPU running too hot when everyone around you is saying it isn't. And you always appear to have a clever reply at hand ignoring the core information.

 

Good luck with whatever you're trying to acchieve your goal.

[Mark Kaine]

2 minutes ago, bowrilla said:

You insist on your GPU running too hot when everyone around you is saying it isn't. And you always appear to have a clever reply at hand ignoring the core information.

Because that is irrelevant to me,  I want to discuss how to improve this GPU cooler and not what everyone thinks is a 'normal temp' which is apparently vastly different to my experience and we'll never agree on that... Under normal circumstances i would *never* have kept a hot running GPU like that,  but these aren't normal circumstances currently as you probably know so I'm looking for other solutions, one of which a better cooler,  air or water seems the most obvious. 

 

And i already agreed several times another case could possibly improve the situation. I just doubt it's enough hence I will continue to look for a good replacement for the poor gigabyte cooler. 

 

8 minutes ago, bowrilla said:

Good luck with whatever you're trying to acchieve your goal.

The answer is Noctua,  and thanks! 

: D

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Chrismike]

On 3/22/2021 at 5:21 AM, Mark Kaine said:

I already made a topic asking about specific coolers and the conclusion was kind of "it doesn't work for Gigabyte GPU"  but i somehow don't really believe this wouldn't work with an NZXT kraken bracket for example (with some CPU AIO)? And why wouldn't it? 

 

And what other options do I have with this GPU? 

 

 

 

 

Problem with the kraken

 

On 3/22/2021 at 5:21 AM, Mark Kaine said:

I already made a topic asking about specific coolers and the conclusion was kind of "it doesn't work for Gigabyte GPU"  but i somehow don't really believe this wouldn't work with an NZXT kraken bracket for example (with some CPU AIO)? And why wouldn't it? 

 

And what other options do I have with this GPU? 

 

 

 

 

Hola. So for the kraken.... i suppose it would work. Now I’m not too sure what the kraken kit includes. Just make sure you have heatsinks for your vrams and vrms. Otherwise you’dhave a higher than or may exceed hot spot temps. If you’ve got that covered, the ye that could probably work and may even be cheaper than making a custom loop. But it’s too much guess work for my taste. I prefer a gpu block that covers all necessary components. Furmarks 4k stress test gives me 2055mhz-2070mhz peak gpu temp of 61c and peak hot spot temp of 73. Water temp peaks at 48c. Fans are fixed to 1200rpm (nzxt fans) Rad 240. Fans are obviously not good so i have 2 push and 1 pull config. Waiting for my noctuas to arrive still .  With only 2 fans installed gpu temp peaks at 63c(1200rpm). I know it looks kind of silly with that one extra fan, but hey, i value every drop in temp. 4 fans it peaks at 57. But because of my aio for the cpu, I’m unable to mount 4 fans and had to settle with 3. Once my noctuas arrive, it will be down to 2. Turns out that 2 proper rad fans with about 2300rpm will keep it under 55c. I tested it with my aorus LC240 fans.

 

Too much explanation anyway kraken... just make sure it has heatsinks with them or make sure you have them. I don’t think the one fan will cut it. Personally Id recommend to go use a gpu block. Soft tube with good fittings for better management and aesthetics. If you’re bothered with your current temps, i don’t think you’d be ok with the kraken and will probably end up with a custom loop anyway....so might as well cut to the chase

 

-edit: to add performance increase was evident btw. Can’t remember my current fps score. Will run a stress test later maybe and edit this. But for the clock. At stock, it would start at 1970mhz but would stabilize at 1755mhz after an hour of stress test. Didn’t really notice when it started throttling. But it would stay at 1755 and temps of 71c but it did peak at 76c about half an hour in. Fps was 140. With my custom loop, clock started at 2070 and dropped and maintained 2055mhz peak temp of 63c but maintains 59-60c. Fps i forget. Will try to add that info tomorrow. So in regards to performance, just a small percentage but it’s there. Oh stress test was for a 4k. At 1440, temps are like 55 i think and maintains 2130mhz if i remember correctly.

 

all these numbers makes me what to stress test my card again

[Mark Kaine]

2 hours ago, Chrismike said:

Just make sure you have heatsinks for your vrams and vrms

That's indeed a concern with the kraken/ bracket... besides that one fan there isn't much to cool the VRMs / VRAM, but then the plan would be to replace the nzxt fan with a proper fan anyway, so it shouldn't really be an issue. 

 

The only real issue would be if the bracket , and the actual cooler even fits the GPU... which is what I've been asking here... no definite answer though, I guess no one has tried yet maybe...

 

 

2 hours ago, Chrismike said:

Personally Id recommend to go use a gpu block. 

Same issue  there doesn't seem to be any that would fit, unless a 3080 block would? Also unknown...

 

 

And making a block DIY may be an option,  but for me that's not feasible. 

[Chrismike]

11 minutes ago, Mark Kaine said:

That's indeed a concern with the kraken/ bracket... besides that one fan there isn't much to cool the VRMs / VRAM, but then the plan would be to replace the nzxt fan with a proper fan anyway, so it shouldn't really be an issue. 

 

The only real issue would be if the bracket , and the actual cooler even fits the GPU... which is what I've been asking here... no definite answer though, I guess no one has tried yet maybe...

 

 

Same issue  there doesn't seem to be any that would fit, unless a 3080 block would? Also unknown...

 

 

And making a block DIY may be an option,  but for me that's not feasible. 

Well to be fair, there is a gpu block for the 3070s. I todered one from bykski off of aliexpress. Took 3 weeks to arrive though, well,,,it may not be for everyone.

[Mark Kaine]

13 minutes ago, Chrismike said:

Well to be fair, there is a gpu block for the 3070s. I todered one from bykski off of aliexpress. Took 3 weeks to arrive though, well,,,it may not be for everyone.

Ah... they actually have this !

Thanks for the info...

 

Well do I need the backplate,  or can i just keep using the old one (would prefer that)?

 

And what else would I need,  what kind of water cooling system?  I really have no idea about this stuff,  what's a simple solution for this? 

 

 

[Chrismike]

46 minutes ago, Mark Kaine said:

Ah... they actually have this !

Thanks for the info...

 

Well do I need the backplate,  or can i just keep using the old one (would prefer that)?

 

And what else would I need,  what kind of water cooling system?  I really have no idea about this stuff,  what's a simple solution for this? 

 

 

Well the backplate you really can’t use the old one since the old one’s as long as the heatsink’s fins. So it will over extend the block and won’t look nice . As for it being a necessity....well it will look better to have one. But not really necessary since it won’t be thermally connected to anything. Well it’s cheap so i bought it still

as for what you’d need.... i opted for soft tube 10inner and 16 outer diameter.  As for the fittings, completely your call. Just make a sketch for case and layout. And you’d pretty much be able to make a good guesstimate how many 90/45degree fittings you’d need. Just be careful.... fittings there are pretty cheap, but you’d be shocked at checkout

 

i bought extra fittings myself to be on the safe side but found out that it’s not really necessary. Well i did buy an awful lot. So....maybe an extra piece or pair of each would be enough. 
 

i did buy 4 times the length of tube than what’s necessary, and i found that beneficial.

 

They don’t ship fluids so i bought mine from ekwb. 1 bottle is enough. I only used 50ml of the 100ml concentrate. I bought 4!!!!! Shelf life is 2 years. Now I’m trying to sell 2 of them through ebay so just buy one concentrate. My loop is only about 300ml in total. 
 

as for the installation. Dismantle everything. Wet the rubber seals when reinstalling them. Wet all the rubber seals when installing the fittings as well. Even the pump....make sure to wet the rubber when putting the pump back together before actually using it.

 

 Be very careful when tightening the screws of the acrylics. It’s not about the force you apply. But more about contact. Imagine your faucet. You don’t really have to put that much effort shutting the faucet off right? Same thing. You might break the acrylic. Clean the rad(youtube). Take pictures of your gpu when dismantling it... For future reference. Label the screws that you took off your card, again for future reference.

 

when installing the tubes.... wear rhe tubes a bit before mounting it to the components. I mean....the tubes may be a bit too rigid to put on the fittings that are on the components. A slight slip might damage the acrylic. So.... off of the components.... pre mount the tube to a fitting a couple or so times before actually mounting it to the fitting that’s connected to the component to make it easier. So that the opening won’t be too rigid. You’d know what i mean once you have it.

 

plan where to put your drain valve. 

the block’s intervals are copper so use a copper rad. And brass fittings.

 

other than that it’s fairly simple really. A bit overwhelming but once you start doing it, it really isn’t. Well it also depends how well you did your sketch

 

ALSO BEFORE BUYING chat with shop. They could put in additional discount upon checkout. The agent talked me into using aliexpress premium. Was worth it. Well it’s dhl, but comparing to the other shipping methods they have, dhl’s great.

 

Edit: added the pcb with the backplate still attached.

[Chrismike]

3 minutes ago, Chrismike said:

Well the backplate you really can’t use the old one since the old one’s as long as the heatsink’s fins. So it will over extend the block and won’t look nice . As for it being a necessity....well it will look better to have one. But not really necessary since it won’t be thermally connected to anything. Well it’s cheap so i bought it still

as for what you’d need.... i opted for soft tube 10inner and 16 outer diameter.  As for the fittings, completely your call. Just make a sketch for case and layout. And you’d pretty much be able to make a good guesstimate how many 90/45degree fittings you’d need. Just be careful.... fittings there are pretty cheap, but you’d be shocked at checkout

 

i bought extra fittings myself to be on the safe side but found out that it’s not really necessary. Well i did buy an awful lot. So....maybe an extra piece or pair of each would be enough. 
 

i did buy 4 times the length of tube than what’s necessary, and i found that beneficial.

 

They don’t ship fluids so i bought mine from ekwb. 1 bottle is enough. I only used 50ml of the 100ml concentrate. I bought 4!!!!! Shelf life is 2 years. Now I’m trying to sell 2 of them through ebay so just buy one concentrate. My loop is only about 300ml in total. 
 

as for the installation. Dismantle everything. Wet the rubber seals when reinstalling them. Wet all the rubber seals when installing the fittings as well. Even the pump....make sure to wet the rubber when putting the pump back together before actually using it.

 

 Be very careful when tightening the screws of the acrylics. It’s not about the force you apply. But more about contact. Imagine your faucet. You don’t really have to put that much effort shutting the faucet off right? Same thing. You might break the acrylic. Clean the rad(youtube). Take pictures of your gpu when dismantling it... For future reference. Label the screws that you took off your card, again for future reference.

 

when installing the tubes.... wear rhe tubes a bit before mounting it to the components. I mean....the tubes may be a bit too rigid to put on the fittings that are on the components. A slight slip might damage the acrylic. So.... off of the components.... pre mount the tube to a fitting a couple or so times before actually mounting it to the fitting that’s connected to the component to make it easier. So that the opening won’t be too rigid. You’d know what i mean once you have it.

 

plan where to put your drain valve. 

the block’s intervals are copper so use a copper rad. And brass fittings.

 

other than that it’s fairly simple really. A bit overwhelming but once you start doing it, it really isn’t. Well it also depends how well you did your sketch

 

ALSO BEFORE BUYING chat with shop. They could put in additional discount upon checkout. The agent talked me into using aliexpress premium. Was worth it. Well it’s dhl, but comparing to the other shipping methods they have, dhl’s great.

My order cost $539 but again i ordered too many unnecessary items. If i didn’t over compensate maybe it will cost about 300-350$ The display there on the gpu actually displays the water temp and not the gpu die temp. Just an FYI 

components are of good quality in my opinion. The acrylics are not as fragile as i was led to believe. But still, you ought to be very careful. The gpu block is the only think I don’t have a spare of. But i recon the block will last as long as the gpu does. So that’s something. For maintenance, if drain port good, it will be fairly simple to dismantle. The gpu block is fairly easy to take apart as well for future maintenance. I plan to make the gpu block cleaning/complete loop cleaning every 1.5 years. Will be flushing and refilling the loop every 6 months. I might make it every 3 months for now since i have a bumch of coolants that will expire after 2 years!

[Chrismike]

14 minutes ago, Chrismike said:

components are of good quality in my opinion. The acrylics are not as fragile as i was led to believe. But still, you ought to be very careful. The gpu block is the only think I don’t have a spare of. But i recon the block will last as long as the gpu does. So that’s something. For maintenance, if drain port good, it will be fairly simple to dismantle. The gpu block is fairly easy to take apart as well for future maintenance. I plan to make the gpu block cleaning/complete loop cleaning every 1.5 years. Will be flushing and refilling the loop every 6 months. I might make it every 3 months for now since i have a bumch of coolants that will expire after 2 years!

I used a regular colored coolant for now to make it easier to detect for leaks. But will switch to clear ones after using up all the other coolants that i have. I’m not really a fan of the the solid mixes. From the reviews, they require (the solid mixed ones) a more frequent maintenance.

[Mark Kaine]

1 hour ago, Chrismike said:

Well the backplate you really can’t use the old one since the old one’s as long as the heatsink’s fins. So it will over extend the block and won’t look nice . As for it being a necessity....well it will look better to have one. But not really necessary since it won’t be thermally connected to anything. Well it’s cheap so i bought it still

as for what you’d need.... i opted for soft tube 10inner and 16 outer diameter.  As for the fittings, completely your call. Just make a sketch for case and layout. And you’d pretty much be able to make a good guesstimate how many 90/45degree fittings you’d need. Just be careful.... fittings there are pretty cheap, but you’d be shocked at checkout

 

i bought extra fittings myself to be on the safe side but found out that it’s not really necessary. Well i did buy an awful lot. So....maybe an extra piece or pair of each would be enough. 
 

i did buy 4 times the length of tube than what’s necessary, and i found that beneficial.

 

They don’t ship fluids so i bought mine from ekwb. 1 bottle is enough. I only used 50ml of the 100ml concentrate. I bought 4!!!!! Shelf life is 2 years. Now I’m trying to sell 2 of them through ebay so just buy one concentrate. My loop is only about 300ml in total. 
 

as for the installation. Dismantle everything. Wet the rubber seals when reinstalling them. Wet all the rubber seals when installing the fittings as well. Even the pump....make sure to wet the rubber when putting the pump back together before actually using it.

 

 Be very careful when tightening the screws of the acrylics. It’s not about the force you apply. But more about contact. Imagine your faucet. You don’t really have to put that much effort shutting the faucet off right? Same thing. You might break the acrylic. Clean the rad(youtube). Take pictures of your gpu when dismantling it... For future reference. Label the screws that you took off your card, again for future reference.

 

when installing the tubes.... wear rhe tubes a bit before mounting it to the components. I mean....the tubes may be a bit too rigid to put on the fittings that are on the components. A slight slip might damage the acrylic. So.... off of the components.... pre mount the tube to a fitting a couple or so times before actually mounting it to the fitting that’s connected to the component to make it easier. So that the opening won’t be too rigid. You’d know what i mean once you have it.

 

plan where to put your drain valve. 

the block’s intervals are copper so use a copper rad. And brass fittings.

 

other than that it’s fairly simple really. A bit overwhelming but once you start doing it, it really isn’t. Well it also depends how well you did your sketch

 

ALSO BEFORE BUYING chat with shop. They could put in additional discount upon checkout. The agent talked me into using aliexpress premium. Was worth it. Well it’s dhl, but comparing to the other shipping methods they have, dhl’s great.

 

Edit: added the pcb with the backplate still attached.

Thanks for the detailed answer,  I have at least an idea now what has to be done...!  Also i see how it adds up,  if I'm already doing all this I'd probably also want to extend the cooling to the cpu,  even though it's not really necessary (have to think about that) and okay I see i need the backplate as well then...

 

Also interesting to see the gpu,  I've been looking for pics everywhere didn't find any except on TPU which wasn't exactly helpful since its just the pcb... were there any cooling pads on the Vram btw?

 

1 hour ago, Mark Kaine said:

what's a simple solution for this? 

 

 

So, basically , there is no simple solution, unless I'd make a  g12 bracket fit,  which would probably be much cheaper and easier (well, i think)

 

But I'd agree,  a block and custom loop makes more sense.