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System restarting with Gigabyte Visions OC RTX 3080 and RM850W PSU

nobody_cares

I've been having this issue since I built my system back in November and have absoltely no idea what is happening. When playing heavily intensive games my system seems to just automatically restart itslelf. I get a black screen for a few seconds then it restarts without me doing anything. I thought it was a temperature thing so I reapplied thermal paste hoping that would fix the issue however it hasn't. 

 

I'm thinking it has to be a PSU issue since I've been doing research online and have beeing seeing a lot of people saying this in regards to this issue. 

 

My system is: 

Gigabyte Visions OC RTX 3080 

Corsair RM850W PSU

i9 10900k CPU 

32GM RAM

 

I'm thinking of upgrading to a 1000W PSU but not sure if this will fix the issue and what ones are good for my card? 

 

My current thought is an ASUS ROG Strix 1000W Gold PSU but I think I might need to go for platinum just to be safe? I was also thinking the Corsair HX1000M 1000W 80 Plus Platinum PSU. I'm not sure what to do and am at a complete loss. 

 

I'm just after some advice and I hope you guys can help me fix this issue once and for all. 😞

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That RM 850W power supply is it the original RM series or the new and updated RMi or RMx ones? The original RM series really wasn't all that good and could very well be having issues dealing with the power spices of that 3080 under intensive load. 

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 - 3900x @ 4.4GHz with a Custom Loop | MBO: ASUS Crosshair VI Extreme | RAM: 4x4GB Apacer 2666MHz overclocked to 3933MHz with OCZ Reaper HPC Heatsinks | GPU: PowerColor Red Devil 6900XT | SSDs: Intel 660P 512GB SSD and Intel 660P 1TB SSD | HDD: 2x WD Black 6TB and Seagate Backup Plus 8TB External Drive | PSU: Corsair RM1000i | Case: Cooler Master C700P Black Edition | Build Log: here

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10 minutes ago, Avanta8 said:

Are you monitoring your temperatures when it crashes?

Yes I have and it doesn't really get hot enough to warrant a restart like that. The max for the CPU I get is around 80/85 and the GPU is around 70. 

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4 minutes ago, Analog said:

That RM 850W power supply is it the original RM series or the new and updated RMi or RMx ones? The original RM series really wasn't all that good and could very well be having issues dealing with the power spices of that 3080 under intensive load. 

It's just the original RM series and I am suspecting that is the route of the cause but I'm not 100% which is what has me hesitant in spending more on another PSU. 

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1 minute ago, nobody_cares said:

It's just the original RM series and I am suspecting that is the route of the cause but I'm not 100% which is what has me hesitant in spending more on another PSU. 

 

Yes, that would be the issue.

 

You can get a new RM 850 or RMX or HX(i) and they will all be fine.

i9 9900K @ 5.0 GHz, NH D15, 32 GB DDR4 3200 GSKILL Trident Z RGB, AORUS Z390 MASTER, EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Samsung 860 EVO 500GB, ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q 27", Steel Series APEX PRO, Logitech Gaming Pro Mouse, CM Master Case 5, Corsair AXI 1600W Titanium. 

 

i7 8086K, AORUS Z370 Gaming 5, 16GB GSKILL RJV DDR4 3200, EVGA 2080TI FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 970 EVO 250GB, (2)SAMSUNG 860 EVO 500 GB, Acer Predator XB1 XB271HU, Corsair HXI 850W.

 

i7 8700K, AORUS Z370 Ultra Gaming, 16GB DDR4 3000, EVGA 1080Ti FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 960 EVO 250GB, Corsair HX 850W.

 

 

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8 minutes ago, nobody_cares said:

It's just the original RM series and I am suspecting that is the route of the cause but I'm not 100% which is what has me hesitant in spending more on another PSU. 

 

14 minutes ago, Analog said:

That RM 850W power supply is it the original RM series or the new and updated RMi or RMx ones? The original RM series really wasn't all that good and could very well be having issues dealing with the power spices of that 3080 under intensive load. 

 

6 minutes ago, Ankerson said:

 

Yes, that would be the issue.

 

You can get a new RM 850 or RMX or HX(i) and they will all be fine.

Since OP built his PC in November, I'd assume he has the newer 2019 version of the RM850 (unless he's reusing it from an old build). Maybe he was getting confused, and didn't realise there was an older and newer version. @nobody_caresMaybe you could check the model number?

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2 minutes ago, Avanta8 said:

 

 

Since OP built his PC in November, I'd assume he has the newer 2019 version of the RM850 (unless he's reusing it from an old build). Maybe he was getting confused, and didn't realise there was an older and newer version. @nobody_caresMaybe you could check the model number?

I'm not sure which one it is. I did buy a brand new one. It says CP-9020196? 

 

8 minutes ago, Ankerson said:

 

Yes, that would be the issue.

 

You can get a new RM 850 or RMX or HX(i) and they will all be fine.

Thank you! This does make me feel a little better, to be honest though I am leaning more toward a 1000W just because I want to ensure I don't get this issue again and I've been turned off of 850W after experiencing this for so long. 

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18 minutes ago, nobody_cares said:

I'm not sure which one it is. I did buy a brand new one. It says CP-9020196? 

That is the new version. 850W is definitely enough, so either the PSU arrived faulty, or the issue is something else.

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Being this anecdotal, I have seen a couple problems with the RM series and Ampere in the past two months...Some pwr_ok signal wasn't being passed, somehow it would sleep some rails, OCP issues (probably pwm controller), and I still have the instilled belief that better capacitors don't encounter as many restart issues...And this wasn't just what I see from my friends, it's also from randoms on the internet trying to troubleshoot.

Guess what the RM uses...Lottery!

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2 hours ago, ForwardVoltage said:

better capacitors don't encounter as many restart issues

See @jonnyGURUwe've pinned out the source of all problems with Ampere GPUs, just use better hold-up capacitors ! Wait, Seasonic PRIME Titanium uses betterest capacitors out there and issue is still there, oh ...

/s

Also, since i've still pinged you, does the Ampere scenario actually latch-off the PSU or not ? I imagine if it's an UVP it should ... And if so, OP's issue is likely something to do with RAM or CPU instability, not the PSU/GPU, right ?

3 hours ago, nobody_cares said:

I think I might need to go for platinum just to be safe?

Not how it works.

Tag or quote me so i see your reply

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12 minutes ago, Juular said:

Wait, Seasonic PRIME Titanium uses betterest capacitors out there and issue is still there, oh ...

 

Only with the older Primes, the newer ones, Ultra Titanium and newer are fine.

i9 9900K @ 5.0 GHz, NH D15, 32 GB DDR4 3200 GSKILL Trident Z RGB, AORUS Z390 MASTER, EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Samsung 860 EVO 500GB, ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q 27", Steel Series APEX PRO, Logitech Gaming Pro Mouse, CM Master Case 5, Corsair AXI 1600W Titanium. 

 

i7 8086K, AORUS Z370 Gaming 5, 16GB GSKILL RJV DDR4 3200, EVGA 2080TI FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 970 EVO 250GB, (2)SAMSUNG 860 EVO 500 GB, Acer Predator XB1 XB271HU, Corsair HXI 850W.

 

i7 8700K, AORUS Z370 Ultra Gaming, 16GB DDR4 3000, EVGA 1080Ti FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 960 EVO 250GB, Corsair HX 850W.

 

 

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Just now, Ankerson said:

Only with the older Primes, the newer ones, Ultra Titanium and newer are fine.

First, the point was that capacitors have nothing (well, not on primary side at least) to do with this. Corsair RM isn't exactly a perfect PSU mind you but it isn't garbage just because capacitors aren't Japanese branded.

Second, while i didn't write down manufacturing dates of Seasonic Primes i've stumbled upon which had issues with Ampere, i pretty sure i've seen some Ultras there too. Also, Corsair AX Titanium are based off post Jan 2018 revision of it (since they were released in, IIRC second half of 2018), and they definitely have problems with Ampere.

Tag or quote me so i see your reply

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2 hours ago, ForwardVoltage said:

I still have the instilled belief that better capacitors don't encounter as many restart issues...

What? Seriously?

 

13 minutes ago, Ankerson said:

Only with the older Primes, the newer ones, Ultra Titanium and newer are fine.

https://linustechtips.com/topic/1116640-psucultists-psu-tier-list/?do=findComment&comment=14486865

 

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2 hours ago, ForwardVoltage said:

Being this anecdotal, I have seen a couple problems with the RM series and Ampere in the past two months...Some pwr_ok signal wasn't being passed, somehow it would sleep some rails, OCP issues (probably pwm controller), and I still have the instilled belief that better capacitors don't encounter as many restart issues...And this wasn't just what I see from my friends, it's also from randoms on the internet trying to troubleshoot.

Guess what the RM uses...Lottery!

What I wanted to post will get me banned... so I walked away... had some coffee.  Stretched.  Pet my cat... and came back.

 

Please do link the "issues" you've seen with RM and Ampere cards (other than this one, which I'm not convinced is PSU related).  That would be news to me.  Guess what Origin and Vengeance PCs use to power Ampere cards?  RM.

 

And "better capacitors" don't equate to "not as many restart issues".  That's horse shit in a bottle thrown at a pile of horse shit.  More capacitance will improve the issue, not "better" capacitors and I've seen no proof that the capacitors inside the RM aren't good.

 

And the capacitors in an RM are not a "crap shoot".  There is a defined AVL and that AVL can not be amended to or changed without extensive testing.

 

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1 minute ago, Juular said:

First, the point was that capacitors have nothing (well, not on primary side at least) to do with this. Corsair RM isn't exactly a perfect PSU mind you but it isn't garbage just because capacitors aren't Japanese branded.

Second, while i didn't write down manufacturing dates of Seasonic Primes i've stumbled upon which had issues with Ampere, i pretty sure i've seen some Ultras there too. Also, Corsair AX Titanium are based off post Jan 2018 revision of it (since they were released in, IIRC second half of 2018), and they definitely have problems with Ampere.

 

I tested the Prime Ultra Ti 750W with mine, 3080 FTW3 Ultra and it didn't have any issues before I swapped it out.

i9 9900K @ 5.0 GHz, NH D15, 32 GB DDR4 3200 GSKILL Trident Z RGB, AORUS Z390 MASTER, EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Samsung 860 EVO 500GB, ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q 27", Steel Series APEX PRO, Logitech Gaming Pro Mouse, CM Master Case 5, Corsair AXI 1600W Titanium. 

 

i7 8086K, AORUS Z370 Gaming 5, 16GB GSKILL RJV DDR4 3200, EVGA 2080TI FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 970 EVO 250GB, (2)SAMSUNG 860 EVO 500 GB, Acer Predator XB1 XB271HU, Corsair HXI 850W.

 

i7 8700K, AORUS Z370 Ultra Gaming, 16GB DDR4 3000, EVGA 1080Ti FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 960 EVO 250GB, Corsair HX 850W.

 

 

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4 hours ago, nobody_cares said:

I've been having this issue since I built my system back in November and have absoltely no idea what is happening. When playing heavily intensive games my system seems to just automatically restart itslelf. I get a black screen for a few seconds then it restarts without me doing anything. I thought it was a temperature thing so I reapplied thermal paste hoping that would fix the issue however it hasn't. 

 

I'm thinking it has to be a PSU issue since I've been doing research online and have beeing seeing a lot of people saying this in regards to this issue. 

 

My system is: 

Gigabyte Visions OC RTX 3080 

Corsair RM850W PSU

i9 10900k CPU 

32GM RAM

 

I'm thinking of upgrading to a 1000W PSU but not sure if this will fix the issue and what ones are good for my card? 

 

My current thought is an ASUS ROG Strix 1000W Gold PSU but I think I might need to go for platinum just to be safe? I was also thinking the Corsair HX1000M 1000W 80 Plus Platinum PSU. I'm not sure what to do and am at a complete loss. 

 

I'm just after some advice and I hope you guys can help me fix this issue once and for all. 😞

I don't think this is PSU related.  An RM850 should be more than enough.

 

First, make sure "automatically reboot" is unchecked:  http://jongerow.com/automatically-restart/index.html  On a fresh Windows install, it's checked by default.  Also, make sure that in the BIOS "state after power failure" is set to "off".

 

Run Prime95 on all CPU cores.  Then fire up Furmark.  Hit the space bar a couple times (not rapidly, but to turn the fuzzy donut off, then on, then off, etc.)  Does the PC shut down?

 

If the PSU's OCP, OTP, OPP, etc. were to latch, the PSU turns off.  It doesn't restart.  It turns off.  The only safety that would allow the PSU to turn back on without a power cycle is the +5VSB SCP and that would require you to remove the short first.

 

3 hours ago, nobody_cares said:

It's just the original RM series and I am suspecting that is the route of the cause but I'm not 100% which is what has me hesitant in spending more on another PSU. 

When you say "original" do you mean the "original" one that came out six years ago?  Because that would be the "original" RM.

 

The "current" RM has the white font on a black label.

 

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5 hours ago, jonnyGURU said:

I don't think this is PSU related.  An RM850 should be more than enough.

 

First, make sure "automatically reboot" is unchecked:  http://jongerow.com/automatically-restart/index.html  On a fresh Windows install, it's checked by default.  Also, make sure that in the BIOS "state after power failure" is set to "off".

 

Run Prime95 on all CPU cores.  Then fire up Furmark.  Hit the space bar a couple times (not rapidly, but to turn the fuzzy donut off, then on, then off, etc.)  Does the PC shut down?

 

If the PSU's OCP, OTP, OPP, etc. were to latch, the PSU turns off.  It doesn't restart.  It turns off.  The only safety that would allow the PSU to turn back on without a power cycle is the +5VSB SCP and that would require you to remove the short first.

 

When you say "original" do you mean the "original" one that came out six years ago?  Because that would be the "original" RM.

 

The "current" RM has the white font on a black label.

 

I did hear there are issues because the RTX 3080 does have power spikes and I feel with my CPU it might go over the 850W limit even just a tiny bit which restarts the PC. 

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19 minutes ago, nobody_cares said:

I did hear there are issues because the RTX 3080 does have power spikes and I feel with my CPU it might go over the 850W limit even just a tiny bit which restarts the PC. 

Yes.  Some PSUs do have issues.  The RM850 is not one of them.

 

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4 minutes ago, jonnyGURU said:

Yes.  Some PSUs do have issues.  The RM850 is not one of them.

 

I'm not sure why I have been having this issue then. Do you think I should upgrade to a 1000W PSU and would this fix my issue? 

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9 hours ago, nobody_cares said:

I get a black screen for a few seconds then it restarts

It's not a PSU issue, then. Try normal troubleshooting. Disable any overclocks, run stress tests, etc.

6 minutes ago, nobody_cares said:

Do you think I should upgrade to a 1000W PSU and would this fix my issue? 

Have you not been reading what people replied to you...? Try actually reading this

5 hours ago, jonnyGURU said:

I don't think this is PSU related.  An RM850 should be more than enough.

 

First, make sure "automatically reboot" is unchecked:  http://jongerow.com/automatically-restart/index.html  On a fresh Windows install, it's checked by default.  Also, make sure that in the BIOS "state after power failure" is set to "off".

 

Run Prime95 on all CPU cores.  Then fire up Furmark.  Hit the space bar a couple times (not rapidly, but to turn the fuzzy donut off, then on, then off, etc.)  Does the PC shut down?

 

If the PSU's OCP, OTP, OPP, etc. were to latch, the PSU turns off.  It doesn't restart.  It turns off.  The only safety that would allow the PSU to turn back on without a power cycle is the +5VSB SCP and that would require you to remove the short first.

 

 

:)

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3 minutes ago, seon123 said:

It's not a PSU issue, then. Try normal troubleshooting. Disable any overclocks, run stress tests, etc.

Have you not been reading what people replied to you...? Try actually reading this

 

I'm not that tech savvy so I'm not sure what they mean..

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11 hours ago, jonnyGURU said:

What I wanted to post will get me banned... so I walked away... had some coffee.  Stretched.  Pet my cat... and came back.

 

Please do link the "issues" you've seen with RM and Ampere cards (other than this one, which I'm not convinced is PSU related).  That would be news to me.  Guess what Origin and Vengeance PCs use to power Ampere cards?  RM.

 

And "better capacitors" don't equate to "not as many restart issues".  That's horse shit in a bottle thrown at a pile of horse shit.  More capacitance will improve the issue, not "better" capacitors and I've seen no proof that the capacitors inside the RM aren't good.

 

And the capacitors in an RM are not a "crap shoot".  There is a defined AVL and that AVL can not be amended to or changed without extensive testing.

 

Since this is all in private discords, I am going to paraphrase here...
"straight up just playing planetmans and PC just shuts off completely like a click [on a 6 month old RM750 with a stock 10700K, OC 4400CL19 vipers, and stock 2060]. I did some CMOS clearing, reconnected every cable, played with MSI afterburner sliders, issue was still present. I took my pc to a different power outlet and booted it on my kitchen island just to see and it hasn’t crashed. I turn off the unit manually to cmos clear, and it won't turn back on. How comes it was working for last 6 months, and just stopped being good like that." -- new PSU fixed the problem.
---
"I was running a 5800X overclocked to 4.7ghz all-core and a MSI 3090 overclocked to around 2080mhz on the core with a RM750. When I would open up Witcher 3 at 4k max settings, a few minutes in, the pc would turn off. Yea, I know it wasn't ideal, but it was the one i had and didnt want to upgrade. I got the RM850x, and it now works fine. probably should have listen nvidia more.
---
"So my GPU(i think it’s the 2060 super) is having some fat issues, whenever I play any game, after about 5 minutes the screen goes into power save mode and the GPU fans kick up like crazy. I took apart the gpu and cleaned it like no other and replaced thermal paste, didn’t fix my issue. I’ve consulted other friends and still no fixes, as a last resort I took it to geek squad and they said the issue was the GPU, 5 days after I had already told them that when I originally took it in. I guess my question is, has anyone had the same problem and is my gpu toast?
later
...
"I swapped in a 2070 super and it worked fine (brought it home with me), but also, when Geek squad swapped in a EVGA GQ 850w, it also fixed the issue I think..geeksquad didn't test it for long, and like you said, one of those little output monitors don't load anything.
--
"New system: 8700k at 5ghz, 3060ti (just got it...got really lucky), 16gb of 3200 corsair ram, and a new rm650. Sometimes when I play GTA5, the psu would turn off like poof. I DDU'ed, reset cmos, new drivers, new motherboard, used different pcie cables, it would still turn off. I went to best buy because it was close and got the 750w version. I plugged it in and it worked fine, no issues this past week."

Quote

better capacitors 

That was poor wording, so you're right.

Quote

There is a defined AVL and that AVL can not be amended to or changed without extensive testing.

Then I'm curious on why Corsair went with Elite/Chinsan and Sus'con instead of the more known Chemi-con or Rubycon...Is it because the assortment of different series are all equal (or above since I've heard interesting things about KZE) Chemicon's KZE or maybe just cost reduction/availability foremost-ly?
 

Quote

  That would be news to me. 

Transient handling wise, it's not on the list of can't-handle-current-spikes, but the usual non-competitive pricing (Enermax be slamming with deals and MSI with their "new" unit too) makes it hard to recommend better quality units at the same wattages and efficiency levels (since that's how most of the general populace buy their units). Since you actually have hardware to test this sort of stuff, then if this was just a fluke in a batch (it was spread out around the USA), I'd assumed just a connected string of usual defects.

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11 hours ago, ForwardVoltage said:

Since this is all in private discords, I am going to paraphrase here...
"straight up just playing planetmans and PC just shuts off completely like a click [on a 6 month old RM750 with a stock 10700K, OC 4400CL19 vipers, and stock 2060]. I did some CMOS clearing, reconnected every cable, played with MSI afterburner sliders, issue was still present. I took my pc to a different power outlet and booted it on my kitchen island just to see and it hasn’t crashed. I turn off the unit manually to cmos clear, and it won't turn back on. How comes it was working for last 6 months, and just stopped being good like that." -- new PSU fixed the problem.
---
"I was running a 5800X overclocked to 4.7ghz all-core and a MSI 3090 overclocked to around 2080mhz on the core with a RM750. When I would open up Witcher 3 at 4k max settings, a few minutes in, the pc would turn off. Yea, I know it wasn't ideal, but it was the one i had and didnt want to upgrade. I got the RM850x, and it now works fine. probably should have listen nvidia more.
---
"So my GPU(i think it’s the 2060 super) is having some fat issues, whenever I play any game, after about 5 minutes the screen goes into power save mode and the GPU fans kick up like crazy. I took apart the gpu and cleaned it like no other and replaced thermal paste, didn’t fix my issue. I’ve consulted other friends and still no fixes, as a last resort I took it to geek squad and they said the issue was the GPU, 5 days after I had already told them that when I originally took it in. I guess my question is, has anyone had the same problem and is my gpu toast?
later
...
"I swapped in a 2070 super and it worked fine (brought it home with me), but also, when Geek squad swapped in a EVGA GQ 850w, it also fixed the issue I think..geeksquad didn't test it for long, and like you said, one of those little output monitors don't load anything.
--
"New system: 8700k at 5ghz, 3060ti (just got it...got really lucky), 16gb of 3200 corsair ram, and a new rm650. Sometimes when I play GTA5, the psu would turn off like poof. I DDU'ed, reset cmos, new drivers, new motherboard, used different pcie cables, it would still turn off. I went to best buy because it was close and got the 750w version. I plugged it in and it worked fine, no issues this past week."

 

Probably all isolated incidents then.  Like I said, the RM750 (non-x) is used by both Origin and Corsair Vengeance for systems using 3080 cards.  

 

None of these examples are consistent enough to equate them to "RM850 doesn't work with Ampere cards".

 

Like you said:

 

11 hours ago, ForwardVoltage said:

Since you actually have hardware to test this sort of stuff, then if this was just a fluke in a batch (it was spread out around the USA), I'd assumed just a connected string of usual defects.

 

11 hours ago, ForwardVoltage said:

 

Then I'm curious on why Corsair went with Elite/Chinsan and Sus'con instead of the more known Chemi-con or Rubycon...Is it because the assortment of different series are all equal (or above since I've heard interesting things about KZE) Chemicon's KZE or maybe just cost reduction/availability foremost-ly?

Because Elite, Suscon, etc cost a lot less.  You do notice that RM is cheaper than RMx, right?  By a good $10+.  There is no advantage to using Japanese "brand" (that's all they are in PSUs... Japanese branded.  They're not made in Japan, they're made in China, often by the same factories that make Chinese brand) capacitors.

 

The RMx using Japanese capacitors is a marketing bulletpoint.  Nothing more.

 

 

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