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My mic is causing a constant "Hiss" through my headphones and I can hear myself speak too even though I've disabled this options in Windows

I started a new job last night and had problems the whole time with getting my audio set up (great first impression). It's working now but I have a constant Hissing through my headphones when the mic is plugged in and if I talk loudly or tap the mic I can hear it clearly through the headphones. The issue is I've been into the Sound settings in W10 and disabled the Listen to this device setting and set the Boost to 0 and Mic level to 1 but it still does it.

 

Is there any other setting I'm missing that causes this, or is it completely normal and I've just never noticed it?

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7 minutes ago, Euphoria said:

I started a new job last night and had problems the whole time with getting my audio set up (great first impression). It's working now but I have a constant Hissing through my headphones when the mic is plugged in and if I talk loudly or tap the mic I can hear it clearly through the headphones. The issue is I've been into the Sound settings in W10 and disabled the Listen to this device setting and set the Boost to 0 and Mic level to 1 but it still does it.

 

Is there any other setting I'm missing that causes this, or is it completely normal and I've just never noticed it?

did you try using a sound card, amp, or a external sound card (usb)?? i had the same problem and it saved me!

EVERYTHING I SAY MAY NOT BE CORRECT!

I am far from an expert in this so please correct me if I’m wrong.

Quote or tag me so I can see your response

 

 

My Computers -

Main PC -

CPU - i5 10400 | Motherboard - ASUS PRIME B460 PLUS | RAM - Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (16GBx2) 3200MHz - Running at 2666Mhz | Graphics Card - Gigabyte GTX 1650 SUPER WINDFORCE OC 4G | Power Supply - CORSAIR CV550 80+ Bronze | Storage- KingSpec 120GB SSD | Seagate Barracuda 500GB 7200RPM HDD | Case - PowerTrain Gaming Case | Color Theme -Black and Red OS -  Windows 10 Pro 1909

 

Storage PC - (Connected via 1Gbps Network)

CPU - i5 650 | Motherboard - Intel Dreamsys H55 | RAM - Samsung 4GB (2GBx2) - Running at 1066Mhz | Graphics Card - GT 610 | Power Supply - PowerStation 500W | Storage- Seagate Barracuda 500x2GB 7200RPM HDD | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200RPM HDD | HITACHI 500GB 7200RPM HDD | WD 500GB 7200RPM HDD | Case - Binch Diac Edition | OS -  Windows 10 Pro 1909

 

PC - (i rarely game on this, so this serves as a local mail server)

CPU - i5 3470 | Motherboard - PEGATRON H61 | RAM - Samsung 8GB (4GBx2) - Running at 1066Mhz | Graphics Card - GT 1030 | Power Supply - PowerStation 500W | Storage- Seagate Barracuda 500x2GB 7200RPM HDD | Case - some case found from a prebuilt ( lol ) | OS -  Windows 7 Ultimate SP1

 

+1 more pc for testing parts - Core 2 Duo E7500 | Samsung 4GB (2GBx2) RAM | GT 210 | HITACHI 60GB HDD | 350W Stock

 

Cameras -

Nikon D5600 + 18-55MM AF-S VR LENS + Tamron 70-300mm F/4-5.6 Di LD Macro 

GoPro Hero 7

 

Camera Gear -

Gimbal - FUNSNAP Capture 3

 

Phones - 

iPod Touch 6th Gen, SAMSUNG GALAXY M11, SAMSUNG GALAXY M01 Core, HUAWEI Y9 2018, HUAWEI Y5 Lite 2018, XIAOMI REDMI GO, HTC Desire 526G+

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1 minute ago, hirusha.adikari said:

did you try using a sound card, amp, or a external sound card (usb)?? i had the same problem and it saved me!

No. I only have the onboard card and I don't have an amp yet.

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2 minutes ago, Euphoria said:

No. I only have the onboard card and I don't have an amp yet.

sometimes when the data from the onboard sound card is interrupted, that weird noise comes from your microphone...

EVERYTHING I SAY MAY NOT BE CORRECT!

I am far from an expert in this so please correct me if I’m wrong.

Quote or tag me so I can see your response

 

 

My Computers -

Main PC -

CPU - i5 10400 | Motherboard - ASUS PRIME B460 PLUS | RAM - Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (16GBx2) 3200MHz - Running at 2666Mhz | Graphics Card - Gigabyte GTX 1650 SUPER WINDFORCE OC 4G | Power Supply - CORSAIR CV550 80+ Bronze | Storage- KingSpec 120GB SSD | Seagate Barracuda 500GB 7200RPM HDD | Case - PowerTrain Gaming Case | Color Theme -Black and Red OS -  Windows 10 Pro 1909

 

Storage PC - (Connected via 1Gbps Network)

CPU - i5 650 | Motherboard - Intel Dreamsys H55 | RAM - Samsung 4GB (2GBx2) - Running at 1066Mhz | Graphics Card - GT 610 | Power Supply - PowerStation 500W | Storage- Seagate Barracuda 500x2GB 7200RPM HDD | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200RPM HDD | HITACHI 500GB 7200RPM HDD | WD 500GB 7200RPM HDD | Case - Binch Diac Edition | OS -  Windows 10 Pro 1909

 

PC - (i rarely game on this, so this serves as a local mail server)

CPU - i5 3470 | Motherboard - PEGATRON H61 | RAM - Samsung 8GB (4GBx2) - Running at 1066Mhz | Graphics Card - GT 1030 | Power Supply - PowerStation 500W | Storage- Seagate Barracuda 500x2GB 7200RPM HDD | Case - some case found from a prebuilt ( lol ) | OS -  Windows 7 Ultimate SP1

 

+1 more pc for testing parts - Core 2 Duo E7500 | Samsung 4GB (2GBx2) RAM | GT 210 | HITACHI 60GB HDD | 350W Stock

 

Cameras -

Nikon D5600 + 18-55MM AF-S VR LENS + Tamron 70-300mm F/4-5.6 Di LD Macro 

GoPro Hero 7

 

Camera Gear -

Gimbal - FUNSNAP Capture 3

 

Phones - 

iPod Touch 6th Gen, SAMSUNG GALAXY M11, SAMSUNG GALAXY M01 Core, HUAWEI Y9 2018, HUAWEI Y5 Lite 2018, XIAOMI REDMI GO, HTC Desire 526G+

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Just now, hirusha.adikari said:

sometimes when the data from the onboard sound card is interrupted, that weird noise comes from your microphone...

Yeah, I thought the hissing might be EMI but the playback isn't, that must be a setting.

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9 minutes ago, Euphoria said:

No. I only have the onboard card and I don't have an amp yet.

An amp is just gonna make the problem worse. People really often get confused by DACs and amps. The thing that an amp does is to amplify the analog signal coming from the DAC, digital to analog converter. Which takes digital data and makes it analog. Therefore amping a DAC that isn't clean then it'll make things worse. Only a DAC will be useless and an amp will make it worse. So what you are looking for is an amp/DAC combo. Such as the sound blaster G5 or G3. G3 is a great little portable amp/DAC that even works for android phones with type-C ports. But is mainly better for PC due to having software to adjust stuff.

PM or DM me if you have any questions about audio or about your PC.

My PC specs & audio gear

CPU > Intel core i7 9700k, GPU > RTX 2070 8gb, RAM > Corsair Vengance 2x8gb 3000mhz, Motherboard > Z390 Gigabyte Aorus Pro Wifi, Storage > 1TB HDD & 2pcs of 500gb M2 SSDs, Cooling > H100I Corsair Platinum, PSU > Corsair RM750X V2

🎧Current Audio Setup For Gaming/Music🎧

Philips Fidelio X2HR as daily driver

Soundblaster AE-9 Soundcard

The T.bone SC400 XLR mic

Other peripherals

Keyboard > Razer Chroma v2 Orange Switches

Mouse > Cooler Master MM711, had a G502 HERO but was too heavy for my liking.

VR > Valve index kit

Why spend thousands on peripherals and your PC and forget one of the most important things... Audio.

Read this post if you want a "gaming" headset ;)

 

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31 minutes ago, Tigerleon said:

An amp is just gonna make the problem worse. People really often get confused by DACs and amps. The thing that an amp does is to amplify the analog signal coming from the DAC, digital to analog converter. Which takes digital data and makes it analog. Therefore amping a DAC that isn't clean then it'll make things worse. Only a DAC will be useless and an amp will make it worse. So what you are looking for is an amp/DAC combo. Such as the sound blaster G5 or G3. G3 is a great little portable amp/DAC that even works for android phones with type-C ports. But is mainly better for PC due to having software to adjust stuff.


Thanks for the info, I was aware of the differences although mostly only the basics, I only mentioned the amp as the user above suggested it.

I do want to get one and a DAC in the future to improve my setup so I appreciate the recommendations.

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