I want to start soldering. I have questions

[Potatocell]

I am looking into modding / repairing consoles. More so repairing as modding seems like a ton of work but just seems fun.

 

I bought a lot of broken DS lites and I need to solder some charging ports, bridges/fuses and speakrs on the display ribbon cable.

I want to expand into other items as I get more expacinaced the goal is to make money with it in the long run.

 

I was looking at gear and it looks like the Hakko 888d is the one I should get, I saw another called the something 100 but from what i read having the station will be better. 
The hakko can plug into my home outlet correct? 

 

as for flux and solder what are cheap ones I can get? I used the new Techtonix game repair guide and his soldering course (its free) the solder and flux he links is expensive when I see others for like $8 vs his $35 one he linked. 

Is there cheap stuff I can use? I won't do this daily or even weekly maybe a few times a month so Id rather not spend a ton when Im spending $150 on a iron, fume sucker and other stuff needed.

 

 

 

[HanZie82]

3 minutes ago, Potatocell said:

I am looking into modding / repairing consoles. More so repairing as modding seems like a ton of work but just seems fun.

 

I bought a lot of broken DS lites and I need to solder some charging ports, bridges/fuses and speakrs on the display ribbon cable.

I want to expand into other items as I get more expacinaced the goal is to make money with it in the long run.

 

I was looking at gear and it looks like the Hakko 888d is the one I should get, I saw another called the something 100 but from what i read having the station will be better. 
The hakko can plug into my home outlet correct? 

 

as for flux and solder what are cheap ones I can get? I used the new Techtonix game repair guide and his soldering course (its free) the solder and flux he links is expensive when I see others for like $8 vs his $35 one he linked. 

Is there cheap stuff I can use? I won't do this daily or even weekly maybe a few times a month so Id rather not spend a ton when Im spending $150 on a iron, fume sucker and other stuff needed.

 

 

 

You can use the cheap stuff, it would work. But there's ofcourse a reason that stuff can be very expensive.
You'll need less, it works better, leaves less residue and stinks/smokes less.

Also if you're in a well ventilated room a fan (I use a PC fan on 5V) will be enough. Just make sure the smoke can go, its not to good for you.

[Quackers101]

louis rossman has a few options on his site too, that could be helpful.

very cheap flux might not always be the best, and if it will make it harder to do the job?

also careful with everything around this, you would want fire extinguisher in hand, just in case if you are going to do a lot of this.

with having a good airflow, if you have any way to discard the fumes and/or with a some type of filter?

[kelvinhall05]

Those are awful things to learn to solder on. Dense boards, small parts, fine smd joints. You will get frustrated very fast and likely give up.

 

Buy some cheap through hole kits from China. Practice on those. Then move to smd practice kits. Once you're comfortable with that, then you can move to DS Lite mobo repairs.

 

The 888d is a great choice, nothing wrong with that. Make sure you get some fine leaded solder (I find 0.6mm to be the sweet spot for basically everything). Don't bother with "external" flux until you start doing smd, even cheap Chinese solder has enough flux in it for basically all through hole joints. Extra flux will just be messy and another expense.

[Potatocell]

3 hours ago, kelvinhall05 said:

Those are awful things to learn to solder on. Dense boards, small parts, fine smd joints. You will get frustrated very fast and likely give up.

 

Buy some cheap through hole kits from China. Practice on those. Then move to smd practice kits. Once you're comfortable with that, then you can move to DS Lite mobo repairs.

 

The 888d is a great choice, nothing wrong with that. Make sure you get some fine leaded solder (I find 0.6mm to be the sweet spot for basically everything). Don't bother with "external" flux until you start doing smd, even cheap Chinese solder has enough flux in it for basically all through hole joints. Extra flux will just be messy and another expense.

 

I just watched a video on Adam savage portable soldering station and he said he loves the YEEZUGO TS100 that is the one I was talking about in my post.

Ive seen that and the hakko pop up on every google ive done. So what would be better? They both will cost around the same after you buy the stand, brass for cleaning and power adapter for the iron 

[DoctorNick]

TS100 is super great. I have one. Just remember to get a power supply that works for it, 65W. Even hot enough for lead free soldering. Get a no clean flux pen. Get a brass soldering iron tip cleaner. I can recommend getting a tip tinner too. If your working in a place with bad ventilation or working with flux/tip tinner, make sure to get a Fume extractor/absober with activated coal filter.

[kelvinhall05]

5 hours ago, Potatocell said:

 

I just watched a video on Adam savage portable soldering station and he said he loves the YEEZUGO TS100 that is the one I was talking about in my post.

Ive seen that and the hakko pop up on every google ive done. So what would be better? They both will cost around the same after you buy the stand, brass for cleaning and power adapter for the iron 

Don't buy a TS100 or any portable iron unless you are going to be using it as a portable iron. Period. They are a hassle to use and aren't designed for extended soldering sessions (the metal frame heats up to uncomfortable temps after 45 mins or so of soldering).

[ColinLTT]

I have both a TS100 (and various power boards to run it from USB-C PD as well as XT60 Lipos) and 2x Hakko 888D's. 

 

I will use the Hakkos over the TS100 every time in a shop environment, however the TS100 is a great iron for detail work when I'm out in a field somewhere flying drones around. Depends on your use case, but I can recommend either iron - Hakko for benchtop, TS100 for portable. There is also a TS60 that's more aimed at fine work. 

 

 

[kelvinhall05]

7 hours ago, ColinLTT said:

I have both a TS100 (and various power boards to run it from USB-C PD as well as XT60 Lipos) and 2x Hakko 888D's. 

 

I will use the Hakkos over the TS100 every time in a shop environment, however the TS100 is a great iron for detail work when I'm out in a field somewhere flying drones around. Depends on your use case, but I can recommend either iron - Hakko for benchtop, TS100 for portable. There is also a TS60 that's more aimed at fine work. 

 

 

This exactly. Too many people recommend and use the TS irons as desktop ones. They aren't. They aren't even marketed as such. I'm not sure why they get recommended over equally priced 888Ds, but whatever.

[Potatocell]

54 minutes ago, kelvinhall05 said:

This exactly. Too many people recommend and use the TS irons as desktop ones. They aren't. They aren't even marketed as such. I'm not sure why they get recommended over equally priced 888Ds, but whatever.

From what I read people like it just becase of how it heats up quicker and the small size.I see many people use it as a daily driver even for desktop work. But im sure they also take it with them so they like it for that reason as well.

 

I wont be moving around at all. Now I just worry if I get a fake or not I see there is an issue with fakes from amazon. But I read having a fake is still safe? no idea lol.

[kelvinhall05]

Just now, Potatocell said:

From what I read people like it just becase of how it heats up quicker and the small size.I see many people use it as a daily driver even for desktop work. But im sure they also take it with them so they like it for that reason as well.

 

I wont be moving around at all. Now I just worry if I get a fake or not I see there is an issue with fakes from amazon. But I read having a fake is still safe? no idea lol.

If you are worried about fakes, buy it from Hakko themselves or a reputable vendor like Digikey.

[Potatocell]

https://prnt.sc/wh7zjx

 

That is what I have so far, is there anything I am missing and should get before I buy it all? 

[ColinLTT]

On 1/5/2021 at 8:07 PM, Potatocell said:

https://prnt.sc/wh7zjx

 

That is what I have so far, is there anything I am missing and should get before I buy it all? 

Personally, ditch the solder sucker - I never use mine. I use wick for everything - get the good stuff (gootwick brand). 

 

For the solder I would pony up and get a 1lb spool that will last you forever, buy once cry once - I've been on the same spool for half a decade. 

 

I suggest this one: https://www.amazon.com/Kester-24-6337-0010-Rosin-Solder-SPOOL/dp/B00068IJWC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2U0ZXFKLB9SFQ&dchild=1&keywords=kester+solder+63%2F37&qid=1610051374&sprefix=kester+solder+%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-3  -- that's .020 wire, if you do really fine stuff consider going down to .015. 

 

[artuc]

I have personally switched to lead free, do soldering at work pretty mobile with gas irons and so don't always have the ability on site to have a completely safe and dedicated space and easy ability for cleaning/washup.

 

I'm less concerned about myself, but have young kids and so don't want to transfer extra lead into the house.

 

To be honest it doesn't flow as well, but there are some with silver or other alloys that are better.

 

Just thought I'd mention it.

[Potatocell]

4 hours ago, artuc said:

I have personally switched to lead free, do soldering at work pretty mobile with gas irons and so don't always have the ability on site to have a completely safe and dedicated space and easy ability for cleaning/washup.

 

I'm less concerned about myself, but have young kids and so don't want to transfer extra lead into the house.

 

To be honest it doesn't flow as well, but there are some with silver or other alloys that are better.

 

Just thought I'd mention it.

From what I read the lead does not burn just melt so the vaopors that come off should just be from the flux or something not the lead so the fumes are the same either you use right? as long as they both have the same make up -lead.

 

Just need to wash up after handling it.

 

tbh im not too keen on lead solder and maybe If I only ever use lead free it will be all I know and thus the flow of it ill get used to how to use it rather.

 

That being said is lead free cheaper, the same price or more expensive?

[artuc]

12 minutes ago, Potatocell said:

Just need to wash up after handling it.

 

tbh im not too keen on lead solder and maybe If I only ever use lead free it will be all I know and thus the flow of it ill get used to how to use it rather.

 

That being said is lead free cheaper, the same price or more expensive?

 

Yeah I'm just more worried about transfer from handling it and not always having access to wash up after. Plus kids exposure limits are way lower than adults.

 

Everything I've read says it's very safe especially with the right precautions so for most it's fine, just mentioning it as a paranoid parent.

 

Lead free tends to be a lot more expensive for the good alloys.

 

 

[HanZie82]

9 hours ago, Potatocell said:

From what I read the lead does not burn just melt so the vaopors that come off should just be from the flux or something not the lead so the fumes are the same either you use right? as long as they both have the same make up -lead.

I think you misread. It can definatly leave some residue in the air.
https://blink.ucsd.edu/safety/occupational/hazard-control/lead-soldering.html

 

But if you work safely, it will be fine.

[kelvinhall05]

On 1/5/2021 at 11:07 PM, Potatocell said:

https://prnt.sc/wh7zjx

 

That is what I have so far, is there anything I am missing and should get before I buy it all? 

You don't need a proper fume extractor, a normal fan will suffice. I personally wouldn't get the magnifying glasses but you may need them, that's up to you. That braid and solder sucks, I would strongly suggest an SS-02 and some braid with flux in it. I'd also get a set of helping hands, some nice ones like this:

https://www.amazon.ca/Helping-Soldering-Workshop-Non-Slip-Weighted/dp/B07MDKXNPC/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=helping+hands&qid=1610123221&sr=8-6

[Potatocell]

3 hours ago, HanZie82 said:

I think you misread. It can definatly leave some residue in the air.
https://blink.ucsd.edu/safety/occupational/hazard-control/lead-soldering.html

 

But if you work safely, it will be fine.

are you sure? I read that soldering temps are too low to vaporize the lead it just melts it. What I read said its hard to vaporize an alloy. The flux melts / boils at a lower temp then the solder and some flux vaporizes causing fumes. but the lead its self does not turn into vapor so you are not breathing in lead fumes.

 

From what I read the harm in the lead is not washing your hands or work area after and touching stuff / yourself / food / other people spreading some lead.

I mean I understand that its not good or safe to breath in any fumes and I don't plan it but from all I read I never saw anyone say that you are creating lead fumes by soldering.

I could be 100% wrong too as idk how all the elements interact and such. so I plan on being as safe as I can be.

 

That link mostly was just saying to wash your hands and not eat after touching lead. but just thinking about all that makes me want to use lead free.

Id rather not get dementia if I live long enough for that lol.

 

 

3 hours ago, kelvinhall05 said:

You don't need a proper fume extractor, a normal fan will suffice. I personally wouldn't get the magnifying glasses but you may need them, that's up to you. That braid and solder sucks, I would strongly suggest an SS-02 and some braid with flux in it. I'd also get a set of helping hands, some nice ones like this:

https://www.amazon.ca/Helping-Soldering-Workshop-Non-Slip-Weighted/dp/B07MDKXNPC/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=helping+hands&qid=1610123221&sr=8-6

 

I just am being caution as the room I will be soldering in is disconnected from the houses AC/air and the room pretty much as still air,

I do Agar work in the room so its perfect for that as you want still air. but when it comes to fumes and all that its not.

like I said i do agar work in that room so I keep it as clean as I can so no bacteria / mold can mess up my cultures.

If I solder I think I might need to open the window and have the fan by that to blow it outside to help disperse the fumes

My work station is right next to a window so that's no problem. But an open window will allow so much bacteria and stuff to come in.

I do not have a flow hood so idk how I feel about that.

So If I used a carbon based filter fan I could suck it in with no window open correct and it be fine? I also have dogs and a GF that the room is very close to and I don't want to put them at risk or anything.

 

I Just want to be safe so idk maybe I should just go lead fee.

 

 

 

[HanZie82]

10 hours ago, Potatocell said:

I Just want to be safe so idk maybe I should just go lead fee.

Ive been using lead-free for over 10 years and ive not had any issue with it.
But with a sample size of 1 (me) that says literally nothing.

 

But yeah just use lead-free and some old PC fan you have laying around, solder a USB connector on that and voila.

Oh yeah if you also gonna do wires and such get you some shrinkwrap. (so much better then tape)

 

 

13 hours ago, kelvinhall05 said:

You don't need a proper fume extractor, a normal fan will suffice. I personally wouldn't get the magnifying glasses but you may need them, that's up to you. That braid and solder sucks, I would strongly suggest an SS-02 and some braid with flux in it. I'd also get a set of helping hands, some nice ones like this:

https://www.amazon.ca/Helping-Soldering-Workshop-Non-Slip-Weighted/dp/B07MDKXNPC/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=helping+hands&qid=1610123221&sr=8-6

And yeah definitely get this, having your item move all over while you try and solder it is the worst.

[martward]

I created a fume extractor myself using an old pc fan that I hooked up to a 9v blok battery. I put the fan in a cardboard box with a hole on the other side, then I attach the hose of a vacuum cleaner to the box and hang the other end of the hose out the window. Cost me like $3 since since I already had a fan and I managed to source a hose from a dead vacuum, works pretty well.

I also started with lead free and it was fine, but I decided I also wanted to try with lead and it is a bit easier since it flows a bit better and melts faster. When I work with lead solder I wear a rubber glove on my left hand and make sure to only touch the solder and stuff with the hand that has a glove on it.

Also +1 to the helping hands suggestion, those are really not optional IMO.

[Lii]

Besides what anyone else has suggested to you for soldering irons, I would check:

ts100,

ts80p/s 

thepinecle soldering iron, it's just like a ts100 but cheaper and with more features

 

also get a pcb holder/third arm or whatever they are called, they are extremely useful

 

[Quackers101]

but then none of them have a fuse and burns down your house. nvm.

[airborne spoon]

On 1/4/2021 at 7:31 PM, kelvinhall05 said:

.....Don't bother with "external" flux until you start doing smd, even cheap Chinese solder has enough flux in it for basically all through hole joints. Extra flux will just be messy and another expense.

Flux is important, and the wire with with flux is just crap and never works. The flux makes the solder flow and move along the connection with ease compared to having to get the connection extra hot and it sometimes still not flowing or leaving bare spots like when making like a butt splice in wire. Yes there is a little extra cleanup sometimes, but just don't use so damn much as it goes a long way.

On 1/7/2021 at 12:30 PM, ColinLTT said:

....For the solder I would pony up and get a 1lb spool that will last you forever, buy once cry once - I've been on the same spool for half a decade....

 

Right there on this, i still have a spool i bought at radio shack years ago that isn't even half gone yet. and those guys are long gone

[ColinLTT]

On 2/4/2021 at 10:26 AM, airborne spoon said:

..... just don't use so damn much as it goes a long way.

 

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