Converting HP Pre-built into decent gaming PC (PSU/MOBO Mod)

[fire_squatch]

First time poster here! I read the rules but I may have missed some so if I am in the wrong category or this is a resolved issue simply point me in the right direction!

Here is a link to the PC that I have but I will also list specs:
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/hp-desktop-amd-ryzen-3-series-8gb-memory-256gb-solid-state-drive-jet-black/6366134.p?skuId=6366134&ref=212&loc=1&extStoreId=945&ref=212&loc=BM01&gclid=CjwKCAiAirb_BRBNEiwALHlnDx5gHS33dn5Gckve0L-xu4zAef8avZ6-U_n1L9nUCgub9aKyvdTBHhoClsgQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Ryzen 3 3200g
8gb 2666 DDR4

256gb NVMe boot drive

500gb sata HDD (added by yours truly)

180W HP proprietary PSU

"Erica2" Motherboard (HP proprietary B550A chipset)

 

I bought this PC for $175 from a guy that just wanted to get rid of it, but I am struggling to sell it as is, and so I would like to give it more beef so that I could just be happy with it. I am looking to add either a GTX 960 or 970 to make it a proper gaming machine (and I can get one of them for cheap). I can "physically" fit a standard ATX power supply in the case, but HP has their stupid proprietary 7-pin connector "PWRCMD" (pictured below). I read on another forum post (also linked below) that I theoretically could short or otherwise mod this connector to allow it to work. Has anyone done this or know how to do this? I would like to make this PC a little more worth having without spending much. Any help is appreciated!

 

[GorujoCY]

It depends on the case, Iirc correctly, HPs non gaming prebuilts can't allow you to change the motherboard due to the IO Shield is crafted for their specific OEM, but if you can change the I/O shield, then depending on the form factor (you can tell by how many PCIE slots it has imo and probably memory modules) and you can change it to that motherboard

As for the PSU, if it is an ATX power supply, it is replacable, if you want to make cable management much easier and stuff, an atx semi modular is good enough imo assuming it has the proprietory comnectors. Also becareful because the front panel connectors are most likely not labeled and you'll have a hard time putting it on a new motherboard (assuming you could get a new one in).

Also the ryzen 3 3200G is a capable gaming apu also, it can run esports at 1080p low at high framerates or 720p low if you are willing to get triple A titles running at playable framerates

 

[fire_squatch]

So I am not planning on swapping the MOBO so the IO shield is irrelevant, but the power supply is not ATX it is a 12v only that uses 4 pin CPU power and 4-pin MOBO power (which hypothetically could be powered my spitting a 4+4 ATX CPU power connector). My only issue is the PWRCMD connector pictured above. As I understand it, those pins tell the PSU when the user is powering on the system (essentially the PSU power switch since there is no physical switch) and I am not sure how that connector will need to be interacted with. Does that clear things up a bit? 

 

note: I play Overwatch and at 720p low settings I barely maintain 60 fps in most maps, some dipping to 40. I also want to play some more demanding titles that I just haven't even tried to run on this thing because of the APU.

Edited December 31, 2020 by fire_squatch

[manikyath]

the colors of the pwrcmd lines match with lines on a standard 24 pin connector, it's quite easy to reverse engineer.

 

your problem is these HP units also use +12Vsb instead of +5Vsb line normal ATX units.

even if you could make an ATX power supply fit in the case, you're still stuck with the differing voltages on the stand by rail.

[GorujoCY]

20 minutes ago, fire_squatch said:

So I am not planning on swapping the MOBO so the IO shield is irrelevant, but the power supply is not ATX it is a 12v only that uses 4 pin CPU power and 4-pin MOBO power (which hypothetically could be powered my spitting a 4+4 ATX CPU power connector). My only issue is the PWRCMD connector pictured above. As I understand it, those pins tell the PSU when the user is powering on the system (essentially the PSU power switch since there is no physical switch) and I am not sure how that connector will need to be interacted with. Does that clear things up a bit? 

 

note: I play Overwatch and at 720p low settings I barely maintain 60 fps in most maps, some dipping to 40. I also want to play some more demanding titles that I just haven't even tried to run on this thing because of the APU.

I saw your edit:

That must be a power limit set by HP (like they did with their gaming builds) so that's why you are not capped at the right framerate needed, at least that's what I think.

Well it's kind of a shame because 12v only power supplies aren't mainstream currently, not to mention when i saw that power command thing, I'm thinking it will make it impossible for you to upgrade (again that's what I just think, there may be a solution but as the aboce reply said, you are limited to the sb voltages as well)

You are very limited to options in graphics card which if I were to recommend someone to put a GPU in such a build, I would say you are in bad luck, a GT 1030 or an RX 550 are your only best options shamely.

Well I hope you understand what I mean...

Edited December 31, 2020 by GorujoCY
added minor things #respect

[fire_squatch]

1 hour ago, GorujoCY said:

I saw your edit:

That must be a power limit set by HP (like they did with their gaming builds) so that's why you are not capped at the right framerate needed, at least that's what I think.

Well it's kind of a shame because 12v only power supplies aren't mainstream currently, not to mention when i saw that power command thing, I'm thinking it will make it impossible for you to upgrade (again that's what I just think, there may be a solution but as the aboce reply said, you are limited to the sb voltages as well)

You are very limited to options in graphics card which if I were to recommend someone to put a GPU in such a build, I would say you are in bad luck, a GT 1030 or an RX 550 are your only best options shamely.

Well I hope you understand what I mean...

Yeah so I had an extra ATX Power supply (that i know works) lying around and I could not get the system to power on. It looks like low power cards are the only option. luckily rx560s are super cheap and should still offer a good experience on a budget. thanks for all of the help guys! I am happily surprised how fast everyone responded! Great first forum experience!

[Biomecanoid]

The simplest things are:

 

* Add ram

* Add new GPU something simple like an Nvidia 1050 that needs no external power or something a bit better like a 1060 and power it up stealing power from the Optical Drive and HD. You should be able to use the NVME drive + GPU ( having the Optical and HD drive disconnected )

* Alternatively power the GPU externally buy a "laptop" sized power brick

 

I have done similar things here :

 

 

 

 

 

 

[GorujoCY]

4 minutes ago, Biomecanoid said:

The simplest things are:

 

* Add ram

* Add new GPU something simple like an Nvidia 1050 that needs no external power or something a bit better like a 1060 and power it up stealing power from the Optical Drive and HD. 

You should be able to use the NVME drive + GPU ( having the Optical and HD drive disconnected )

*Alternatively power the GPU externally buy a "laptop" sized power brick

 

I have done similar things here :

 

 

 

 

 

 

these are different models, and besides he's limited to the 180w psu so he's forced on low power gpus like the rx 550, or if it has enough, a GTX 1050 Ti or RX 560

[Biomecanoid]

1 minute ago, GorujoCY said:

these are different models, and besides he's limited to the 180w psu so he's forced on low power gpus like the rx 550, or if it has enough, a GTX 1050 Ti or RX 560

Of course there are different models, the idea is to restore something old to be competent nowadays. If he does not use the optical drive and the HD the power will be enough to power an Nvidia 1060.

 

Otherwise you can power the card externally like i said with a power brick.

 

You didn't really read my post

[GorujoCY]

5 minutes ago, Biomecanoid said:

Of course there are different models, the idea is to restore something old to be competent nowadays. If he does not use the optical drive and the HD the power will be enough to power an Nvidia 1060.

 

Otherwise you can power the card externally like i said with a power brick.

 

You didn't really read my post

now I agree with the optical drive being disconnected as they are a little more power hungry and this can give a headroom and alltho ssds does in fact consume less, I don't think unplugging a hard drive is like the best idea because he could actually use an HDD to store his games there and they don't comsume that much power as ODDs

Alltho he did mention of adding a rx 560, I'm still afraid even with the ODD Disconnected is probably still not enough, and if it is then yeah, a GTX 1050 Ti or an RX 560 is safe to add then

 

Edit: yeah dw, I would also recommend the rest of the upgrades (ram and probably storage) for a better experience and better overall usability of a "technically sleeper gaming system"

[Biomecanoid]

You can use something like the below to power the GPU

[Biomecanoid]

[fire_squatch]

9 hours ago, GorujoCY said:

now I agree with the optical drive being disconnected as they are a little more power hungry and this can give a headroom and alltho ssds does in fact consume less, I don't think unplugging a hard drive is like the best idea because he could actually use an HDD to store his games there and they don't comsume that much power as ODDs

Alltho he did mention of adding a rx 560, I'm still afraid even with the ODD Disconnected is probably still not enough, and if it is then yeah, a GTX 1050 Ti or an RX 560 is safe to add then

 

Edit: yeah dw, I would also recommend the rest of the upgrades (ram and probably storage) for a better experience and better overall usability of a "technically sleeper gaming system"

Do you really think that I can't use a 1050ti (75W) and a 3200g (~65W) with this system, that leaves 40W of headroom for ram and a HDD and the SSD, do they really use that much energy? and could I under-volt the processor and GPU to compensate? I can remove the HDD if needed which would allow for some more space. I know it is cutting it close but do i really need to go as low as an rx550?

 

edit: i was also planning on adding another 8gb ram stick for ~$25, which should also help performance.

Edited December 31, 2020 by fire_squatch

[GorujoCY]

3 hours ago, fire_squatch said:

Do you really think that I can't use a 1050ti (75W) and a 3200g (~65W) with this system, that leaves 40W of headroom for ram and a HDD and the SSD, do they really use that much energy? and could I under-volt the processor and GPU to compensate? I can remove the HDD if needed which would allow for some more space. I know it is cutting it close but do i really need to go as low as an rx550?

 

edit: i was also planning on adding another 8gb ram stick for ~$25, which should also help performance.

well I'm gonna be honest you can feel free to add an rx 560, it will work just fine, if it does cause issues then maybe I was right but it's a good debate to make...