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Need help figuring out how to wire this PSU molex on/off switch

NadeMagnet69

Running an old PSU mounted under my desk to power some LED behind my monitor and TV, and some desk fans in the summer. Using 2 Lighting node pros and an Anidees fan hub. All three are sata powered. But rather than having to reach down under my desk to power off the PSU every time I want to shut them off, I wanted to run a switch to my desktop next to the keyboard to do the job. So I bought this https://www.performance-pcs.com/diy/switches/switch-accessories/4-pin-molex-power-adapter-cable-w-remote-on-off-toggle-switch-36-sleeved-gc36ps44.html
and this to run to the 3 items. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009GULFJ0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

How that switch is pinned won't work for what I need it to do. If I try just the fan hub plugged in alone. With the switch on, the fan LED and the fans spin up to full power like they should. Shut the switch off, and the LED shut off, the fans loose most of the power. But still are getting enough to run minimally. So power is leaking by somehow. If I try the fan hub and both LNP or just 1 LNP. Then neither the fan LED nor any of the LED strips attached to the LNP will shut off at all. As best they merely dim and with all 3 I can't even tell if the fans slow. So obviously this switch isn't pinned how I need it to be. This is a pic of how the switch is pinned with their pin layout.

20201208_231058.thumb.jpg.4a3c4d41377342acf70e72854b12a23d.jpg

I don't understand how it's wired at all. They have the switch itself which is the long cable that goes out of the pic's frame, wired to the grounds. So how do I rewire this so I can keep the PSU on and shut off the 3 items with the switch? Both the fan hub and the LNP are 5v items so I don't need the 12v.

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It appears the switch is on the 12V line and all other connections are normal.

So you need to remove the 5V line (red).

Swap the switched 12V line (yellow) to the 5V pins. Best done by rehousing the pins if you can.

 

You will then need either 5V fan or add a relay that can switch the 12V off the 5V signal.

I suppose you could also just put the relay on the 12V to switch the 5V

 

Or you could purchase a DPST switch and switch both sides at the same time.

 

 

If you're interested in a product please download and read the manual first.

Don't forget to tag or quote in your reply if you want me to know you've answered or have another question.

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2 hours ago, keskparane said:

It appears the switch is on the 12V line and all other connections are normal.

So you need to remove the 5V line (red).

Swap the switched 12V line (yellow) to the 5V pins. Best done by rehousing the pins if you can.

 

You will then need either 5V fan or add a relay that can switch the 12V off the 5V signal.

I suppose you could also just put the relay on the 12V to switch the 5V

 

Or you could purchase a DPST switch and switch both sides at the same time.

 

 

I was hoping I could just reorder the pins somehow. Sorry lol I don't even know what a relay is. This is all new to me but I'm trying to learn. The closest I've come is making RGB cables and it's hard to screw up connecting simple 3 wire, power, data, and ground cables with nothing else in the mix.

I'm not understanding your instructions. How is switching the 12 and 5 around doing anything? They're double sided Y cables. Wouldn't switching them just put them back to doing the same thing they were?

How does the grounds work? 2 grounds means 1 ground per power voltage? IE 1 for 5 and 1 for 12? Then can't I just move the pigtailed cable that runs from the swtich to the ground next to the 12v, to next to the 5v, and vise versa with its pigtail to the other ground? Or can I just cut the 12v out of the mix entirely?

 

I didn't know what a DPST was, so in looking it up I see it's a 4 terminal switch. If I got something like this https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/e-switch/RR812C1121/2116258?utm_adgroup=Rocker Switches&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping_Switches_NEW&utm_term=&utm_content=Rocker Switches&gclid=CjwKCAiAiML-BRAAEiwAuWVggoTAdJ4SJ5ivu-aExIaSZtFb--gLFb39w3Wo2ihSdGr1TM9vclfwORoCYpkQAvD_BwE

(round again lol because I already brilliantly drilled the hole in my desk.) how exactly should I wire it? What kind of gauge wires should I get? Or does anyone make what I need already? lol Would be much simpler if I can just get another prewired switch.

 

 

 

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That switch would work.

 

Disconnect the switch from your current cable and replace it with the new one.

 

Then cut the red wire in the middle and put it on the other 2 terminals of that switch.

 

If you're interested in a product please download and read the manual first.

Don't forget to tag or quote in your reply if you want me to know you've answered or have another question.

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6 hours ago, keskparane said:

That switch would work.

 

Disconnect the switch from your current cable and replace it with the new one.

 

Then cut the red wire in the middle and put it on the other 2 terminals of that switch.

 

Since that would require also buying things like the connections. Would this work instead for what I'm trying to do? https://www.amazon.com/CRJ-24-Pin-Switch-Jumper-Sleeved/dp/B01MSY4966/

Currently I'm just jumping the 24pin with a paperclip on the 4th and 5th pin to get it to power up.

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Yes I believe it would. Best solution yet.

If you're interested in a product please download and read the manual first.

Don't forget to tag or quote in your reply if you want me to know you've answered or have another question.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 12/10/2020 at 1:01 AM, keskparane said:

Yes I believe it would. Best solution yet.

It works perfectly. The only drawback is mounting. Unlike the other switch which has cables that easily unplug, this one is attached. And I can't for the life of me get the 3 pins out of the 24pin header so I can feed the wires through the hole. So I had to cut a notch into the end of the desktop to get the switche's wires in the hole I drilled for it. Oh well I've been meaning to resurface my desk anyways. A bit of wood putty, a new top with some particle board I already have and then a neat vinyl wrapping that looks like carbon fiber I'm getting off Amazon, and it'll be better than new.

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