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RTX 3080 is underperforming and microstutters in games

1 minute ago, Mark Kaine said:

No im not, but it seems kinda likely - they have known issues. we can theorize about this all day, but you gotta go ahead and get a replacement that's known to work with these cards. if the issue persists return it, but I'm pretty sure it'll fix it. 

 

 

Nope they have issues with 3xxx cards I think Seasonic even issued a statement... 

 

Again, this sounds like a psu issue... reinstalling drivers or more RAM isn't gonna fix... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Then that solves it. I'm just a noob in these matters 😛 But if you can, I would still try reinstalling windows if it's not too much hassle (I know it can be), just to be sure. But yeah, probably the issue isn't drivers / windows but the PSU.

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1 minute ago, Stockholmes said:

Then that solves it. I'm just a noob in these matters 😛 But if you can, I would still try reinstalling windows if it's not too much hassle (I know it can be), just to be sure. But yeah, probably the issue isn't drivers / windows but the PSU.

What about RAM usage?I've been using only 8GB in games instead of 16GB.

PS I enabled XMP profile.

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Just now, Chris Redfield said:

What about RAM usage?I've been using only 8GB in games instead of 16GB.

PS I enabled XMP profile.

That is weird, unless it's being capped at 8 GB. Again, I'm no expert. Weird that it would be capping at a certain amount.

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Anyway,I still need help.If anyone can tell me is my RAM working fine,since it only uses 8GB instead of all 16GB?

I ran benchmark in Shadow of The Tomb Raider and RAM usage never went over 8GB despite having 16GB in my system,

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4 minutes ago, Chris Redfield said:

Anyway,I still need help.If anyone can tell me is my RAM working fine,since it only uses 8GB instead of all 16GB?

I ran benchmark in Shadow of The Tomb Raider and RAM usage never went over 8GB despite having 16GB in my system,

Just for S's and giggles, make sure your RAM is in A2 and B2. That's preferred by most motherboards, and yours.

Spoiler

image_2020-12-06_155008.png.c35643ee525774371f340a42e1fcd09e.png

 

I'm not actually trying to be as grumpy as it seems.

Project Hot Box

CPU Ryzen 7 5800x, Motherboard MSI MPG B550I Gaming Edge Wifi, RAM CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 32GB 3200mhz (2x16), GPU AMD Raedon 6800 XT FE, Case Silverstone RVZ03B, Storage CORSAIR Force Series MP510 1920GB NVMe, CORSAIR FORCE Series MP510 960GB NVMe, PSU CORSAIR sf600, Cooling Noctua NH-L12S, Displays LG 34UC98-W 34-Inch, 32 inch curved that I can't find the model number for right now; UPerfect 7 inch LCD Aida64 Display, Keyboard Corsair K95, Mouse Corsair Nightblade, Sound AT2020+ USB Mic, Massdrop 6xx headphones, Schiit Magni, Modi Loki mini stack. 

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Just now, Voluspa said:

Just for S's and giggles, make sure your RAM is in A2 and B2. That's preferred by most motherboards, and yours.

  Reveal hidden contents

image_2020-12-06_155008.png.c35643ee525774371f340a42e1fcd09e.png

 

I did installed sticks  in A2 B2.

It says that I have 16GB,but once I start game it only uses 8GB.

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1 minute ago, Chris Redfield said:

I did installed sticks  in A2 B2.

It says that I have 16GB,but once I start game it only uses 8GB.

Only in Tomb Raider or all of the ones you've tried?

I'm not actually trying to be as grumpy as it seems.

Project Hot Box

CPU Ryzen 7 5800x, Motherboard MSI MPG B550I Gaming Edge Wifi, RAM CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 32GB 3200mhz (2x16), GPU AMD Raedon 6800 XT FE, Case Silverstone RVZ03B, Storage CORSAIR Force Series MP510 1920GB NVMe, CORSAIR FORCE Series MP510 960GB NVMe, PSU CORSAIR sf600, Cooling Noctua NH-L12S, Displays LG 34UC98-W 34-Inch, 32 inch curved that I can't find the model number for right now; UPerfect 7 inch LCD Aida64 Display, Keyboard Corsair K95, Mouse Corsair Nightblade, Sound AT2020+ USB Mic, Massdrop 6xx headphones, Schiit Magni, Modi Loki mini stack. 

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18 minutes ago, Voluspa said:

Only in Tomb Raider or all of the ones you've tried?

I tried Red Dead Redemption 2 and Witcher 3

RDR2 used around 6 GB and Witcher 3 used around 3GB.

 

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4 minutes ago, Chris Redfield said:

I tried Red Dead Redemption 2 and Witcher 3

RDR2 used around 6 GB and Witcher 3 used around 3GB.

 

Did you disable your iGPU in BIOS? I'd start with shutting down, removing RAM and reseating. Clear CMOS while it's off. Go into your BIOS, turn off the iGPU on the CPU. That'll show up as an Intel xxx Graphics. Don't set XMP, let the ram run at 2333mhz and see if the games will read both sticks of ram. If it does, enable XMP and try again.

I'm not actually trying to be as grumpy as it seems.

Project Hot Box

CPU Ryzen 7 5800x, Motherboard MSI MPG B550I Gaming Edge Wifi, RAM CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 32GB 3200mhz (2x16), GPU AMD Raedon 6800 XT FE, Case Silverstone RVZ03B, Storage CORSAIR Force Series MP510 1920GB NVMe, CORSAIR FORCE Series MP510 960GB NVMe, PSU CORSAIR sf600, Cooling Noctua NH-L12S, Displays LG 34UC98-W 34-Inch, 32 inch curved that I can't find the model number for right now; UPerfect 7 inch LCD Aida64 Display, Keyboard Corsair K95, Mouse Corsair Nightblade, Sound AT2020+ USB Mic, Massdrop 6xx headphones, Schiit Magni, Modi Loki mini stack. 

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2 minutes ago, Voluspa said:

Did you disable your iGPU in BIOS? I'd start with shutting down, removing RAM and reseating. Clear CMOS while it's off. Go into your BIOS, turn off the iGPU on the CPU. That'll show up as an Intel xxx Graphics. Don't set XMP, let the ram run at 2333mhz and see if the games will read both sticks of ram. If it does, enable XMP and try again.

I don't think my CPU have integrated GPU since it's KF version which means it doesn't have GPU.

Will removing battery be good enough because I'm not too confident in myself with clearing CMOS?

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3 minutes ago, Chris Redfield said:

I don't think my CPU have integrated GPU since it's KF version which means it doesn't have GPU.

Will removing battery be good enough because I'm not too confident in myself with clearing CMOS?

I completely missed that it was a KF. 

You can do that. You can also try setting games to high priority in task manager. CTRL+ALT+DELETE>More Details in the bottom left if you aren't already using the expanded version>Details>Find Game.exe(RDR2.exe etc)>Right Click>Set Priority>High

I'm not actually trying to be as grumpy as it seems.

Project Hot Box

CPU Ryzen 7 5800x, Motherboard MSI MPG B550I Gaming Edge Wifi, RAM CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 32GB 3200mhz (2x16), GPU AMD Raedon 6800 XT FE, Case Silverstone RVZ03B, Storage CORSAIR Force Series MP510 1920GB NVMe, CORSAIR FORCE Series MP510 960GB NVMe, PSU CORSAIR sf600, Cooling Noctua NH-L12S, Displays LG 34UC98-W 34-Inch, 32 inch curved that I can't find the model number for right now; UPerfect 7 inch LCD Aida64 Display, Keyboard Corsair K95, Mouse Corsair Nightblade, Sound AT2020+ USB Mic, Massdrop 6xx headphones, Schiit Magni, Modi Loki mini stack. 

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11 minutes ago, Chris Redfield said:

I don't think my CPU have integrated GPU since it's KF version which means it doesn't have GPU.

Will removing battery be good enough because I'm not too confident in myself with clearing CMOS?

 

At this point all you can do is replace the PSU.  Nothing more.  OR install windows CLEAN on a completely different disk drive or SSD and boot from that (that way you don't lose your old drive) and test that.

 

I recommend a OneSeasonic version of that PSU that has updated components.

 

Read this carefully first.

 

https://seasonic.com/oneseasonic

 

Notice that all the new revisions were made Q3 2019 and newer.

I recommend personally a Prime PX-850W (I have a Prime PX-1000, powering a shunt modded (up to 600W) RTX 3090 FE).

If you can afford it

 

https://seasonic.com/prime-px

(NOTE: I said PRIME PX-850, NOT "Prime ultra platinum 850W!"

 

If you can't afford it, try a Prime GX-850.

https://seasonic.com/prime-gx

 

Please don't bargain skimp on PSU's.  Its just not worth it.  

Please pay attention to the model name.  The current revisions will show on the box "PX-850 / PX-1000", etc, or "GX-850 / GX-1000", etc etc.

They will *NOT* show "Prime Ultra Platinum / Prime Gold", or "Focus Gold" etc etc.

 

If you're really poor, get this and NOTHING LOWER.

https://seasonic.com/focus-px

 

------

Please take a good look at the box so you can see exactly what to expect.

 

And contrary to what some people here say, yes, the product has been revised from the old units.  The OCP circuit is improved. 

 

Also, the 8 pin + 8 pin into single 8 pin split cables have been REMOVED ON THE PRIME GX, PX AND TX UNITS.  There are only single 8 pin cables on them.

The Focus PX/GX lines are value lines and do have the split cables (only use ONE cable per 8 pin port on your video card, or two SEPARATE Cables for the 12 pin FE cards.

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If you have hwinfo64 or similar software, check how much power your gpu is using, I had a friend running 2 PCIe cables with one pigtail into a 3080 FTW3 which needed 3 PCIe cables and according to that it was suffering from reliable voltage limits.

 

In his case, "Reliability Voltage" was reading yes in things like Furmark, and the card was only pulling around 280w when it should be over 320w. If it says yes for you, then I'd think its an issue related to power delivery.

image.png.0e7242a89183528680d831674ae7b873.png

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Just upgraded to a 3080 on seasonic focus plus gold 850w....no issues yet.

 

Hwinfo64 showing gpu power over 340w sometimes

My System: i9-10900KF 5.1-5.3ghz @ 1.365v // Corsair iCUE H150i Elite Capellix // Gigabyte Z590 Aorus Elite AX // 32GB (4x8) Crucial Ballistix Elite DDR4 4000/CL18 // ASUS RTX 3080 TUF OC // Corsair 275R Airflow // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w //1TB ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro/1TB Samsung 860 EVO/2TB Seagate 7200RPM Hard Drive // Displays: LG Ultrafear 27GL83A-B/Lenovo L24Q-30/Lenovo L24Q-30 // Razer Black Widow TE Chroma // Razer Viper Ultimate // Corsair H70 Gaming Headset

 

Wife's System: i7-8700 // Arctic Freezer 33 // Gigabyte Z390M Gaming // 16GB (2x8) Corsair Vengeance LED DDR4 3200 // XFX Radeon 5700 XT RAW II // NZXT S340 // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w // 1TB Samsung 860 EVO/4TB Western Digital HDD // Displays: AOC AGON AG241QX/ASUS VG248QEASUS VP248Q // Corsair K68 Mechanical Keyboard // Logitech G602 // LG BDRW // NexStar 5.25" USB 3 Enclosure

 

TV Gamer: i7-8700k 5.0ghz All-core delidded @1.385v // Deepcool Gamerstorm Assassin III // Gigabyte Aorus Z370 Gaming 5 // 32GB (4x8) Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3200 // Sapphire Radeon RX Vega 64 // Corsair 275R Airflow // Intel 660P 1TB NVME M.2 SSD/4TB Western Digital Blue // Display: 50" Westinghouse 1080p // Rii Wireless Mini Keyboard w/Touchpad/Xbox One Controllers

 

TV Gamer 2: Intel i3-10100 // ASRock H410M-HDV/M.2 // 16GB (2x8) DDR4 T-Force Vulcan 2666 // XFX RX 580 8GB XXX Edition // Rosewill FBM-X2 // Gigabyte P750GM // 480GB PNY CS1311 SSD/2TB Seagate HDD // Display: LG 50" 4k TV // Rii Wireless Mini Keyboard w/Touchpad/Xbox One Controllers Donated.

 

Son's System: i5-9400 // Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi // ASRock Z370 Extreme 4 // 16GB (2x8) GeIL Potenza DDR 3200 //ASUS RX 570 4GB // NZXT S340 Black // Seasonic S12II 620w Bronze // 525GB Crucial MX300/1TB WD SN550 // Display: ACER Nitro VG240Y/ PBiip / Dell P2417H // Eagletech KG010 Mechanical Keyboard // Logitech G203

 

Daughter's System: i3-8350k // Cooler Master i71c // MSI H310M Pro VDH-Plus // 8GB (2x4) Leven DDR4 2666 (2400) // Zotac GTX 1060 3GB Mini // DarkFlash Micro ATX White // Corsair CX550 // 480GB PNY CS1311 SSD/2TB Seagate HDD // Display: ASUS VG245H // Redragon TKL Mechanic Keyboard + Mouser

 

Retired: Ryzen 5 1600 // Gigabyte B450 Aorus M

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4 hours ago, DirectingGnu2 said:

If you have hwinfo64 or similar software, check how much power your gpu is using, I had a friend running 2 PCIe cables with one pigtail into a 3080 FTW3 which needed 3 PCIe cables and according to that it was suffering from reliable voltage limits.

 

In his case, "Reliability Voltage" was reading yes in things like Furmark, and the card was only pulling around 280w when it should be over 320w. If it says yes for you, then I'd think its an issue related to power delivery.

image.png.0e7242a89183528680d831674ae7b873.png

I did some reading on that reliability voltage limit - most of the hits I get are regarding normal functioning of turbo boost 3.0

My System: i9-10900KF 5.1-5.3ghz @ 1.365v // Corsair iCUE H150i Elite Capellix // Gigabyte Z590 Aorus Elite AX // 32GB (4x8) Crucial Ballistix Elite DDR4 4000/CL18 // ASUS RTX 3080 TUF OC // Corsair 275R Airflow // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w //1TB ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro/1TB Samsung 860 EVO/2TB Seagate 7200RPM Hard Drive // Displays: LG Ultrafear 27GL83A-B/Lenovo L24Q-30/Lenovo L24Q-30 // Razer Black Widow TE Chroma // Razer Viper Ultimate // Corsair H70 Gaming Headset

 

Wife's System: i7-8700 // Arctic Freezer 33 // Gigabyte Z390M Gaming // 16GB (2x8) Corsair Vengeance LED DDR4 3200 // XFX Radeon 5700 XT RAW II // NZXT S340 // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w // 1TB Samsung 860 EVO/4TB Western Digital HDD // Displays: AOC AGON AG241QX/ASUS VG248QEASUS VP248Q // Corsair K68 Mechanical Keyboard // Logitech G602 // LG BDRW // NexStar 5.25" USB 3 Enclosure

 

TV Gamer: i7-8700k 5.0ghz All-core delidded @1.385v // Deepcool Gamerstorm Assassin III // Gigabyte Aorus Z370 Gaming 5 // 32GB (4x8) Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3200 // Sapphire Radeon RX Vega 64 // Corsair 275R Airflow // Intel 660P 1TB NVME M.2 SSD/4TB Western Digital Blue // Display: 50" Westinghouse 1080p // Rii Wireless Mini Keyboard w/Touchpad/Xbox One Controllers

 

TV Gamer 2: Intel i3-10100 // ASRock H410M-HDV/M.2 // 16GB (2x8) DDR4 T-Force Vulcan 2666 // XFX RX 580 8GB XXX Edition // Rosewill FBM-X2 // Gigabyte P750GM // 480GB PNY CS1311 SSD/2TB Seagate HDD // Display: LG 50" 4k TV // Rii Wireless Mini Keyboard w/Touchpad/Xbox One Controllers Donated.

 

Son's System: i5-9400 // Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi // ASRock Z370 Extreme 4 // 16GB (2x8) GeIL Potenza DDR 3200 //ASUS RX 570 4GB // NZXT S340 Black // Seasonic S12II 620w Bronze // 525GB Crucial MX300/1TB WD SN550 // Display: ACER Nitro VG240Y/ PBiip / Dell P2417H // Eagletech KG010 Mechanical Keyboard // Logitech G203

 

Daughter's System: i3-8350k // Cooler Master i71c // MSI H310M Pro VDH-Plus // 8GB (2x4) Leven DDR4 2666 (2400) // Zotac GTX 1060 3GB Mini // DarkFlash Micro ATX White // Corsair CX550 // 480GB PNY CS1311 SSD/2TB Seagate HDD // Display: ASUS VG245H // Redragon TKL Mechanic Keyboard + Mouser

 

Retired: Ryzen 5 1600 // Gigabyte B450 Aorus M

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6 hours ago, Chris Redfield said:

s I saw that my RAM is using only 8 GB instead of 16 GB

Because games do not use 16gb of ram. I know that since i have 32gb of ram and most games use under 10gb anyway :/

 

QUOTE ME  FOR ANSWER.

 

Main PC:

Spoiler

|Ryzen 7 3700x, OC to 4.2ghz @1.3V, 67C, or 4.4ghz @1.456V, 87C || Asus strix 5700 XT, +50 core, +50 memory, +50 power (not a great overclocker) || Asus Strix b550-A || G.skill trident Z Neo rgb 32gb 3600mhz cl16-19-19-19-39, oc to 3733mhz with the same timings || Cooler Master ml360 RGB AIO || Phanteks P500A Digital || Thermaltake ToughPower grand RGB750w 80+gold || Samsung 850 250gb and Adata SX 6000 Lite 500gb || Toshiba 5400rpm 1tb || Asus Rog Theta 7.1 || Asus Rog claymore || Asus Gladius 2 origin gaming mouse || Monitor 1 Asus 1080p 144hz || Monitor 2 AOC 1080p 75hz || 

Test Rig.

Spoiler

Ryzen 5 3400G || Gigabyte b450 S2H || Hyper X fury 2x4gb 2666mhz cl 16 ||Stock cooler || Antec NX100 || Silverstone essential 400w || Transgend SSD 220s 480gb ||

Just Sold

Spoiler

| i3 9100F || Msi Gaming X gtx 1050 TI || MSI Z390 A-Pro || Kingston 1x16gb 2400mhz cl17 || Stock cooler || Kolink Horizon RGB || Corsair CV 550w || Pny CS900 120gb ||

 

Tier lists for building a PC.

 

Motherboard tier list. Tier A for overclocking 5950x. Tier B for overclocking 5900x, Tier C for overclocking 5800X. Tier D for overclocking 5600X. Tier F for 4/6 core Cpus at stock. Tier E avoid.

(Also case airflow matter or if you are using Downcraft air cooler)

Spoiler

 

Gpu tier list. Rtx 3000 and RX 6000 not included since not so many reviews. Tier S for Water cooling. Tier A and B for overcloking. Tier C stock and Tier D avoid.

( You can overclock Tier C just fine, but it can get very loud, that is why it is not recommended for overclocking, same with tier D)

Spoiler

 

Psu tier List. Tier A for Rtx 3000, Vega and RX 6000. Tier B For anything else. Tier C cheap/IGPU. Tier D and E avoid.

(RTX 3000/ RX 6000 Might run just fine with higher wattage tier B unit, Rtx 3070 runs fine with tier B units)

Spoiler

 

Cpu cooler tier list. Tier 1&2 for power hungry Cpus with Overclock. Tier 3&4 for overclocking Ryzen 3,5,7 or lower power Intel Cpus. Tier 5 for overclocking low end Cpus or 4/6 core Ryzen. Tier 6&7 for stock. Tier 8&9 Ryzen stock cooler performance. Do not waste your money!

Spoiler

 

Storage tier List. Tier A for Moving files/  OS. Tier B for OS/Games. Tier C for games. Tier D budget Pcs. Tier E if on sale not the worst but not good.

(With a grain of salt, I use tier C for OS myself)

Spoiler

 

Case Tier List. Work In Progress. Most Phanteks airflow series cases already done!

Ask me anything :)

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WHat's your storage medium your game is installed on? HDD or SSD and what type?

AMD Ryzen 7 5800X | ASUS Strix X570-E | G.Skill 32GB 3600MHz CL16 | PALIT RTX 3080 10GB GamingPro | Samsung 850 Pro 2TB | Seagate Barracuda 8TB | Sound Blaster AE-9 MUSES

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11 hours ago, Voluspa said:

I completely missed that it was a KF. 

You can do that. You can also try setting games to high priority in task manager. CTRL+ALT+DELETE>More Details in the bottom left if you aren't already using the expanded version>Details>Find Game.exe(RDR2.exe etc)>Right Click>Set Priority>High

Games werealready set to High priority.

10 hours ago, Falkentyne said:

 

At this point all you can do is replace the PSU.  Nothing more.  OR install windows CLEAN on a completely different disk drive or SSD and boot from that (that way you don't lose your old drive) and test that.

 

I recommend a OneSeasonic version of that PSU that has updated components.

 

Read this carefully first.

 

https://seasonic.com/oneseasonic

 

Notice that all the new revisions were made Q3 2019 and newer.

I recommend personally a Prime PX-850W (I have a Prime PX-1000, powering a shunt modded (up to 600W) RTX 3090 FE).

If you can afford it

 

https://seasonic.com/prime-px

(NOTE: I said PRIME PX-850, NOT "Prime ultra platinum 850W!"

 

If you can't afford it, try a Prime GX-850.

https://seasonic.com/prime-gx

 

Please don't bargain skimp on PSU's.  Its just not worth it.  

Please pay attention to the model name.  The current revisions will show on the box "PX-850 / PX-1000", etc, or "GX-850 / GX-1000", etc etc.

They will *NOT* show "Prime Ultra Platinum / Prime Gold", or "Focus Gold" etc etc.

 

If you're really poor, get this and NOTHING LOWER.

https://seasonic.com/focus-px

 

------

Please take a good look at the box so you can see exactly what to expect.

 

And contrary to what some people here say, yes, the product has been revised from the old units.  The OCP circuit is improved. 

 

Also, the 8 pin + 8 pin into single 8 pin split cables have been REMOVED ON THE PRIME GX, PX AND TX UNITS.  There are only single 8 pin cables on them.

The Focus PX/GX lines are value lines and do have the split cables (only use ONE cable per 8 pin port on your video card, or two SEPARATE Cables for the 12 pin FE cards.

Unfortunately,I can only choose between these 3 PSUs:

Corsair Enthusiast Series TX750 80+ Gold 750W

Zalman WATTTERA 800W, 80 Plus Gold, Active PFC

LC-Power LC750W, 80+ Platinum

 

Would any of those work fine?

10 hours ago, DirectingGnu2 said:

If you have hwinfo64 or similar software, check how much power your gpu is using, I had a friend running 2 PCIe cables with one pigtail into a 3080 FTW3 which needed 3 PCIe cables and according to that it was suffering from reliable voltage limits.

 

In his case, "Reliability Voltage" was reading yes in things like Furmark, and the card was only pulling around 280w when it should be over 320w. If it says yes for you, then I'd think its an issue related to power delivery.

image.png.0e7242a89183528680d831674ae7b873.png

I ran benchmark in Red Dead Redemption 2 and when it finished,I checked Reliability Voltage and reading was ''no''

I heard that Furmark may fry GPU and it's totally unreliable,so I'm kinda afraid to use it.

5 hours ago, SavageNeo said:

Because games do not use 16gb of ram. I know that since i have 32gb of ram and most games use under 10gb anyway :/

 

Why does game developers recommend 16GB then?

It's not like other 6GB were used for other programs in background,right?

4 hours ago, RejZoR said:

WHat's your storage medium your game is installed on? HDD or SSD and what type?

My whole system is installed on 1TB WD Blue HDD.

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Ok lads, we have a culprit here. It's the fact he's running HDD. I've seen so many games stutter when HDD was used to run the game even when there is plenty of RAM and VRAM involved because most games these days use texture streaming and fetching them on-demand from HDD causes tiny delays which result in stuttering because HDD just can't keep up with the games. It works, but it doens't work great.

 

@Chris Redfield

The rest of your system is fine, HDD is your weak spot. I suggest you either go with SSD of same size. Your stuttering will be gone with SSD, I can pretty much guarantee you that.

AMD Ryzen 7 5800X | ASUS Strix X570-E | G.Skill 32GB 3600MHz CL16 | PALIT RTX 3080 10GB GamingPro | Samsung 850 Pro 2TB | Seagate Barracuda 8TB | Sound Blaster AE-9 MUSES

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I really don't know what to think.Some of you say it's my RAM,other said it's almost definitely PSU and now it's my HDD.

Can you all agree on one component?

Also,I'm not sure why my GPU usage is low,and I noticed that stuttering happens when usage drops.

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23 minutes ago, Chris Redfield said:

I really don't know what to think.Some of you say it's my RAM,other said it's almost definitely PSU and now it's my HDD.

Can you all agree on one component?

Also,I'm not sure why my GPU usage is low,and I noticed that stuttering happens when usage drops.

Thats the thing with "troubleshooting" it could be many different things... 

 

but it's not really hard to understand that this is likely caused by a not fully properly working psu so that's where you start with "troubleshooting". 

 

I already said this we can theorize all day, if you refuse to try out some things it'll lead to nothing (most likely) and just waste time. 

I'm actually one of those people who thinks that anonymity is overrated. Some people confuse privacy and anonymity and think they go hand in hand, and that protecting privacy means that you need to protect anonymity. I think that's wrong. Anonymity is important if you're a whistle-blower, but if you cannot prove your identity, your crazy rant on some social-media platform shouldn't be visible, and you shouldn't be able to share it or like it.

 

Linus Torvalds 

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1 minute ago, Mark Kaine said:

Thats the thing with "troubleshooting" it could be many different things... 

 

but it's not really hard to understand that this is likely caused by a not fully properly working psu so that's where you start with "troubleshooting". 

 

I already said this we can theorize all day, if you refuse to try out some things it'll lead to nothing (most likely) and just waste time. 

I would try new PSU or SSD,but I need to buy it since everyone I know don't own powerful PC like I do,so their PSU is much,much weaker.

They also don't use SSD.

I would need to buy either of those and I'm really short with money right now,so I don't want to make mistake and buy something that won't solve the problem.

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23 minutes ago, Chris Redfield said:

I really don't know what to think.Some of you say it's my RAM,other said it's almost definitely PSU and now it's my HDD.

Can you all agree on one component?

Also,I'm not sure why my GPU usage is low,and I noticed that stuttering happens when usage drops.

It's HDD with almost 100% certainty, especially if it's 5400 RPM version of WD Blue. RAM only causes stuttering if there is insufficient amount of it and system needs to scrub data to pagefile which is on HDD/SSD. Which shouldn't be the case with 16GB of RAM. Just slower RAM speed only causes lower framerate as whole and shouldn't really cause stuttering. PSU, unlikely because it would either work or wouldn't work and you'd be getting video adapter resets if GPU would be dropping out under load and constantly resetting. Besides, it's Seasonic 750W. It's not highest tier, but it's Seasonic, they don't make crap even in lower tiers.

 

There is no way testing this than getting SSD and running game from it. If you can get hands on one for testing...

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1 hour ago, RejZoR said:

It's HDD with almost 100% certainty, especially if it's 5400 RPM version of WD Blue. RAM only causes stuttering if there is insufficient amount of it and system needs to scrub data to pagefile which is on HDD/SSD. Which shouldn't be the case with 16GB of RAM. Just slower RAM speed only causes lower framerate as whole and shouldn't really cause stuttering. PSU, unlikely because it would either work or wouldn't work and you'd be getting video adapter resets if GPU would be dropping out under load and constantly resetting. Besides, it's Seasonic 750W. It's not highest tier, but it's Seasonic, they don't make crap even in lower tiers.

 

There is no way testing this than getting SSD and running game from it. If you can get hands on one for testing...

Actually,it's WD Blue with 7200 RPM.

Would that make any difference?

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33 minutes ago, Chris Redfield said:

Actually,it's WD Blue with 7200 RPM.

Would that make any difference?

If your CPU and GPU drop usage during the stutters, it's possible it's waiting on asset loading, which would point to hard drive. While 7200rpm is faster than 5400, either pale next to a solid state drive. And over time your drive will get fragmented and it will spend more time seeking mechanically for what it needs vs solid state. If you have a solid state drive, move the game there and try it out to see if the problem persists.

 

I have some games on a hard drive, specifically my laptop, where it will have similar asset loading issues resulting in pop in, stutter, and other performance issues. 

 

It will happen more in open world games that constantly have to load assets.


This is why the new SSD and direct storage technologies are so highly touted in the consoles.

 

Also anecdotal evidence, I have the 850w seasonic focus plus gold, and even with a +10% power limit on the 3080 (it gets to 360w) it runs fine at 100% load, no issues.

 

I also see the Performance Limit - Reliability Voltage hit yes sometimes, but after scouring the internet most people say this is normal and is part of GPU Turbo Boost 3.0.

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