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RTX 3080 is underperforming and microstutters in games

Chris Redfield
1 minute ago, Mark Kaine said:

No im not, but it seems kinda likely - they have known issues. we can theorize about this all day, but you gotta go ahead and get a replacement that's known to work with these cards. if the issue persists return it, but I'm pretty sure it'll fix it. 

 

 

Nope they have issues with 3xxx cards I think Seasonic even issued a statement... 

 

Again, this sounds like a psu issue... reinstalling drivers or more RAM isn't gonna fix... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Then that solves it. I'm just a noob in these matters 😛 But if you can, I would still try reinstalling windows if it's not too much hassle (I know it can be), just to be sure. But yeah, probably the issue isn't drivers / windows but the PSU.

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1 minute ago, Stockholmes said:

Then that solves it. I'm just a noob in these matters 😛 But if you can, I would still try reinstalling windows if it's not too much hassle (I know it can be), just to be sure. But yeah, probably the issue isn't drivers / windows but the PSU.

What about RAM usage?I've been using only 8GB in games instead of 16GB.

PS I enabled XMP profile.

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Just now, Chris Redfield said:

What about RAM usage?I've been using only 8GB in games instead of 16GB.

PS I enabled XMP profile.

That is weird, unless it's being capped at 8 GB. Again, I'm no expert. Weird that it would be capping at a certain amount.

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Anyway,I still need help.If anyone can tell me is my RAM working fine,since it only uses 8GB instead of all 16GB?

I ran benchmark in Shadow of The Tomb Raider and RAM usage never went over 8GB despite having 16GB in my system,

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4 minutes ago, Chris Redfield said:

Anyway,I still need help.If anyone can tell me is my RAM working fine,since it only uses 8GB instead of all 16GB?

I ran benchmark in Shadow of The Tomb Raider and RAM usage never went over 8GB despite having 16GB in my system,

Just for S's and giggles, make sure your RAM is in A2 and B2. That's preferred by most motherboards, and yours.

Spoiler

image_2020-12-06_155008.png.c35643ee525774371f340a42e1fcd09e.png

 

I'm not actually trying to be as grumpy as it seems.

I will find your mentions of Ikea or Gnome and I will /s post. 

Project Hot Box

CPU 13900k, Motherboard Gigabyte Aorus Elite AX, RAM CORSAIR Vengeance 4x16gb 5200 MHZ, GPU Zotac RTX 4090 Trinity OC, Case Fractal Pop Air XL, Storage Sabrent Rocket Q4 2tbCORSAIR Force Series MP510 1920GB NVMe, CORSAIR FORCE Series MP510 960GB NVMe, PSU CORSAIR HX1000i, Cooling Corsair XC8 CPU block, Bykski GPU block, 360mm and 280mm radiator, Displays Odyssey G9, LG 34UC98-W 34-Inch,Keyboard Mountain Everest Max, Mouse Mountain Makalu 67, Sound AT2035, Massdrop 6xx headphones, Go XLR 

Oppbevaring

CPU i9-9900k, Motherboard, ASUS Rog Maximus Code XI, RAM, 48GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB 3200 mhz (2x16)+(2x8) GPUs Asus ROG Strix 2070 8gb, PNY 1080, Nvidia 1080, Case Mining Frame, 2x Storage Samsung 860 Evo 500 GB, PSU Corsair RM1000x and RM850x, Cooling Asus Rog Ryuo 240 with Noctua NF-12 fans

 

Why is the 5800x so hot?

 

 

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Just now, Voluspa said:

Just for S's and giggles, make sure your RAM is in A2 and B2. That's preferred by most motherboards, and yours.

  Reveal hidden contents

image_2020-12-06_155008.png.c35643ee525774371f340a42e1fcd09e.png

 

I did installed sticks  in A2 B2.

It says that I have 16GB,but once I start game it only uses 8GB.

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1 minute ago, Chris Redfield said:

I did installed sticks  in A2 B2.

It says that I have 16GB,but once I start game it only uses 8GB.

Only in Tomb Raider or all of the ones you've tried?

I'm not actually trying to be as grumpy as it seems.

I will find your mentions of Ikea or Gnome and I will /s post. 

Project Hot Box

CPU 13900k, Motherboard Gigabyte Aorus Elite AX, RAM CORSAIR Vengeance 4x16gb 5200 MHZ, GPU Zotac RTX 4090 Trinity OC, Case Fractal Pop Air XL, Storage Sabrent Rocket Q4 2tbCORSAIR Force Series MP510 1920GB NVMe, CORSAIR FORCE Series MP510 960GB NVMe, PSU CORSAIR HX1000i, Cooling Corsair XC8 CPU block, Bykski GPU block, 360mm and 280mm radiator, Displays Odyssey G9, LG 34UC98-W 34-Inch,Keyboard Mountain Everest Max, Mouse Mountain Makalu 67, Sound AT2035, Massdrop 6xx headphones, Go XLR 

Oppbevaring

CPU i9-9900k, Motherboard, ASUS Rog Maximus Code XI, RAM, 48GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB 3200 mhz (2x16)+(2x8) GPUs Asus ROG Strix 2070 8gb, PNY 1080, Nvidia 1080, Case Mining Frame, 2x Storage Samsung 860 Evo 500 GB, PSU Corsair RM1000x and RM850x, Cooling Asus Rog Ryuo 240 with Noctua NF-12 fans

 

Why is the 5800x so hot?

 

 

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18 minutes ago, Voluspa said:

Only in Tomb Raider or all of the ones you've tried?

I tried Red Dead Redemption 2 and Witcher 3

RDR2 used around 6 GB and Witcher 3 used around 3GB.

 

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4 minutes ago, Chris Redfield said:

I tried Red Dead Redemption 2 and Witcher 3

RDR2 used around 6 GB and Witcher 3 used around 3GB.

 

Did you disable your iGPU in BIOS? I'd start with shutting down, removing RAM and reseating. Clear CMOS while it's off. Go into your BIOS, turn off the iGPU on the CPU. That'll show up as an Intel xxx Graphics. Don't set XMP, let the ram run at 2333mhz and see if the games will read both sticks of ram. If it does, enable XMP and try again.

I'm not actually trying to be as grumpy as it seems.

I will find your mentions of Ikea or Gnome and I will /s post. 

Project Hot Box

CPU 13900k, Motherboard Gigabyte Aorus Elite AX, RAM CORSAIR Vengeance 4x16gb 5200 MHZ, GPU Zotac RTX 4090 Trinity OC, Case Fractal Pop Air XL, Storage Sabrent Rocket Q4 2tbCORSAIR Force Series MP510 1920GB NVMe, CORSAIR FORCE Series MP510 960GB NVMe, PSU CORSAIR HX1000i, Cooling Corsair XC8 CPU block, Bykski GPU block, 360mm and 280mm radiator, Displays Odyssey G9, LG 34UC98-W 34-Inch,Keyboard Mountain Everest Max, Mouse Mountain Makalu 67, Sound AT2035, Massdrop 6xx headphones, Go XLR 

Oppbevaring

CPU i9-9900k, Motherboard, ASUS Rog Maximus Code XI, RAM, 48GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB 3200 mhz (2x16)+(2x8) GPUs Asus ROG Strix 2070 8gb, PNY 1080, Nvidia 1080, Case Mining Frame, 2x Storage Samsung 860 Evo 500 GB, PSU Corsair RM1000x and RM850x, Cooling Asus Rog Ryuo 240 with Noctua NF-12 fans

 

Why is the 5800x so hot?

 

 

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2 minutes ago, Voluspa said:

Did you disable your iGPU in BIOS? I'd start with shutting down, removing RAM and reseating. Clear CMOS while it's off. Go into your BIOS, turn off the iGPU on the CPU. That'll show up as an Intel xxx Graphics. Don't set XMP, let the ram run at 2333mhz and see if the games will read both sticks of ram. If it does, enable XMP and try again.

I don't think my CPU have integrated GPU since it's KF version which means it doesn't have GPU.

Will removing battery be good enough because I'm not too confident in myself with clearing CMOS?

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3 minutes ago, Chris Redfield said:

I don't think my CPU have integrated GPU since it's KF version which means it doesn't have GPU.

Will removing battery be good enough because I'm not too confident in myself with clearing CMOS?

I completely missed that it was a KF. 

You can do that. You can also try setting games to high priority in task manager. CTRL+ALT+DELETE>More Details in the bottom left if you aren't already using the expanded version>Details>Find Game.exe(RDR2.exe etc)>Right Click>Set Priority>High

I'm not actually trying to be as grumpy as it seems.

I will find your mentions of Ikea or Gnome and I will /s post. 

Project Hot Box

CPU 13900k, Motherboard Gigabyte Aorus Elite AX, RAM CORSAIR Vengeance 4x16gb 5200 MHZ, GPU Zotac RTX 4090 Trinity OC, Case Fractal Pop Air XL, Storage Sabrent Rocket Q4 2tbCORSAIR Force Series MP510 1920GB NVMe, CORSAIR FORCE Series MP510 960GB NVMe, PSU CORSAIR HX1000i, Cooling Corsair XC8 CPU block, Bykski GPU block, 360mm and 280mm radiator, Displays Odyssey G9, LG 34UC98-W 34-Inch,Keyboard Mountain Everest Max, Mouse Mountain Makalu 67, Sound AT2035, Massdrop 6xx headphones, Go XLR 

Oppbevaring

CPU i9-9900k, Motherboard, ASUS Rog Maximus Code XI, RAM, 48GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB 3200 mhz (2x16)+(2x8) GPUs Asus ROG Strix 2070 8gb, PNY 1080, Nvidia 1080, Case Mining Frame, 2x Storage Samsung 860 Evo 500 GB, PSU Corsair RM1000x and RM850x, Cooling Asus Rog Ryuo 240 with Noctua NF-12 fans

 

Why is the 5800x so hot?

 

 

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11 minutes ago, Chris Redfield said:

I don't think my CPU have integrated GPU since it's KF version which means it doesn't have GPU.

Will removing battery be good enough because I'm not too confident in myself with clearing CMOS?

 

At this point all you can do is replace the PSU.  Nothing more.  OR install windows CLEAN on a completely different disk drive or SSD and boot from that (that way you don't lose your old drive) and test that.

 

I recommend a OneSeasonic version of that PSU that has updated components.

 

Read this carefully first.

 

https://seasonic.com/oneseasonic

 

Notice that all the new revisions were made Q3 2019 and newer.

I recommend personally a Prime PX-850W (I have a Prime PX-1000, powering a shunt modded (up to 600W) RTX 3090 FE).

If you can afford it

 

https://seasonic.com/prime-px

(NOTE: I said PRIME PX-850, NOT "Prime ultra platinum 850W!"

 

If you can't afford it, try a Prime GX-850.

https://seasonic.com/prime-gx

 

Please don't bargain skimp on PSU's.  Its just not worth it.  

Please pay attention to the model name.  The current revisions will show on the box "PX-850 / PX-1000", etc, or "GX-850 / GX-1000", etc etc.

They will *NOT* show "Prime Ultra Platinum / Prime Gold", or "Focus Gold" etc etc.

 

If you're really poor, get this and NOTHING LOWER.

https://seasonic.com/focus-px

 

------

Please take a good look at the box so you can see exactly what to expect.

 

And contrary to what some people here say, yes, the product has been revised from the old units.  The OCP circuit is improved. 

 

Also, the 8 pin + 8 pin into single 8 pin split cables have been REMOVED ON THE PRIME GX, PX AND TX UNITS.  There are only single 8 pin cables on them.

The Focus PX/GX lines are value lines and do have the split cables (only use ONE cable per 8 pin port on your video card, or two SEPARATE Cables for the 12 pin FE cards.

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If you have hwinfo64 or similar software, check how much power your gpu is using, I had a friend running 2 PCIe cables with one pigtail into a 3080 FTW3 which needed 3 PCIe cables and according to that it was suffering from reliable voltage limits.

 

In his case, "Reliability Voltage" was reading yes in things like Furmark, and the card was only pulling around 280w when it should be over 320w. If it says yes for you, then I'd think its an issue related to power delivery.

image.png.0e7242a89183528680d831674ae7b873.png

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Just upgraded to a 3080 on seasonic focus plus gold 850w....no issues yet.

 

Hwinfo64 showing gpu power over 340w sometimes

Before you reply to my post, REFRESH. 99.99% chance I edited my post. 

 

My System: i7-13700KF // Corsair iCUE H150i Elite Capellix // MSI MPG Z690 Edge Wifi // 32GB DDR5 G. SKILL RIPJAWS S5 6000 CL32 // Nvidia RTX 4070 Super FE // Corsair 5000D Airflow // Corsair SP120 RGB Pro x7 // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w //1TB ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro/1TB Teamgroup MP33/2TB Seagate 7200RPM Hard Drive // Displays: LG Ultragear 32GP83B x2 // Royal Kludge RK100 // Logitech G Pro X Superlight // Sennheiser DROP PC38x

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4 hours ago, DirectingGnu2 said:

If you have hwinfo64 or similar software, check how much power your gpu is using, I had a friend running 2 PCIe cables with one pigtail into a 3080 FTW3 which needed 3 PCIe cables and according to that it was suffering from reliable voltage limits.

 

In his case, "Reliability Voltage" was reading yes in things like Furmark, and the card was only pulling around 280w when it should be over 320w. If it says yes for you, then I'd think its an issue related to power delivery.

image.png.0e7242a89183528680d831674ae7b873.png

I did some reading on that reliability voltage limit - most of the hits I get are regarding normal functioning of turbo boost 3.0

Before you reply to my post, REFRESH. 99.99% chance I edited my post. 

 

My System: i7-13700KF // Corsair iCUE H150i Elite Capellix // MSI MPG Z690 Edge Wifi // 32GB DDR5 G. SKILL RIPJAWS S5 6000 CL32 // Nvidia RTX 4070 Super FE // Corsair 5000D Airflow // Corsair SP120 RGB Pro x7 // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w //1TB ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro/1TB Teamgroup MP33/2TB Seagate 7200RPM Hard Drive // Displays: LG Ultragear 32GP83B x2 // Royal Kludge RK100 // Logitech G Pro X Superlight // Sennheiser DROP PC38x

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6 hours ago, Chris Redfield said:

s I saw that my RAM is using only 8 GB instead of 16 GB

Because games do not use 16gb of ram. I know that since i have 32gb of ram and most games use under 10gb anyway :/

 

QUOTE ME  FOR ANSWER.

 

Main PC:

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Test Rig.

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Ryzen 5 3400G || Gigabyte b450 S2H || Hyper X fury 2x4gb 2666mhz cl 16 ||Stock cooler || Antec NX100 || Silverstone essential 400w || Transgend SSD 220s 480gb ||

Just Sold

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| i3 9100F || Msi Gaming X gtx 1050 TI || MSI Z390 A-Pro || Kingston 1x16gb 2400mhz cl17 || Stock cooler || Kolink Horizon RGB || Corsair CV 550w || Pny CS900 120gb ||

 

Tier lists for building a PC.

 

Motherboard tier list. Tier A for overclocking 5950x. Tier B for overclocking 5900x, Tier C for overclocking 5800X. Tier D for overclocking 5600X. Tier F for 4/6 core Cpus at stock. Tier E avoid.

(Also case airflow matter or if you are using Downcraft air cooler)

Spoiler

 

Gpu tier list. Rtx 3000 and RX 6000 not included since not so many reviews. Tier S for Water cooling. Tier A and B for overcloking. Tier C stock and Tier D avoid.

( You can overclock Tier C just fine, but it can get very loud, that is why it is not recommended for overclocking, same with tier D)

Spoiler

 

Psu tier List. Tier A for Rtx 3000, Vega and RX 6000. Tier B For anything else. Tier C cheap/IGPU. Tier D and E avoid.

(RTX 3000/ RX 6000 Might run just fine with higher wattage tier B unit, Rtx 3070 runs fine with tier B units)

Spoiler

 

Cpu cooler tier list. Tier 1&2 for power hungry Cpus with Overclock. Tier 3&4 for overclocking Ryzen 3,5,7 or lower power Intel Cpus. Tier 5 for overclocking low end Cpus or 4/6 core Ryzen. Tier 6&7 for stock. Tier 8&9 Ryzen stock cooler performance. Do not waste your money!

Spoiler

 

Storage tier List. Tier A for Moving files/  OS. Tier B for OS/Games. Tier C for games. Tier D budget Pcs. Tier E if on sale not the worst but not good.

(With a grain of salt, I use tier C for OS myself)

Spoiler

 

Case Tier List. Work In Progress. Most Phanteks airflow series cases already done!

Ask me anything :)

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WHat's your storage medium your game is installed on? HDD or SSD and what type?

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11 hours ago, Voluspa said:

I completely missed that it was a KF. 

You can do that. You can also try setting games to high priority in task manager. CTRL+ALT+DELETE>More Details in the bottom left if you aren't already using the expanded version>Details>Find Game.exe(RDR2.exe etc)>Right Click>Set Priority>High

Games werealready set to High priority.

10 hours ago, Falkentyne said:

 

At this point all you can do is replace the PSU.  Nothing more.  OR install windows CLEAN on a completely different disk drive or SSD and boot from that (that way you don't lose your old drive) and test that.

 

I recommend a OneSeasonic version of that PSU that has updated components.

 

Read this carefully first.

 

https://seasonic.com/oneseasonic

 

Notice that all the new revisions were made Q3 2019 and newer.

I recommend personally a Prime PX-850W (I have a Prime PX-1000, powering a shunt modded (up to 600W) RTX 3090 FE).

If you can afford it

 

https://seasonic.com/prime-px

(NOTE: I said PRIME PX-850, NOT "Prime ultra platinum 850W!"

 

If you can't afford it, try a Prime GX-850.

https://seasonic.com/prime-gx

 

Please don't bargain skimp on PSU's.  Its just not worth it.  

Please pay attention to the model name.  The current revisions will show on the box "PX-850 / PX-1000", etc, or "GX-850 / GX-1000", etc etc.

They will *NOT* show "Prime Ultra Platinum / Prime Gold", or "Focus Gold" etc etc.

 

If you're really poor, get this and NOTHING LOWER.

https://seasonic.com/focus-px

 

------

Please take a good look at the box so you can see exactly what to expect.

 

And contrary to what some people here say, yes, the product has been revised from the old units.  The OCP circuit is improved. 

 

Also, the 8 pin + 8 pin into single 8 pin split cables have been REMOVED ON THE PRIME GX, PX AND TX UNITS.  There are only single 8 pin cables on them.

The Focus PX/GX lines are value lines and do have the split cables (only use ONE cable per 8 pin port on your video card, or two SEPARATE Cables for the 12 pin FE cards.

Unfortunately,I can only choose between these 3 PSUs:

Corsair Enthusiast Series TX750 80+ Gold 750W

Zalman WATTTERA 800W, 80 Plus Gold, Active PFC

LC-Power LC750W, 80+ Platinum

 

Would any of those work fine?

10 hours ago, DirectingGnu2 said:

If you have hwinfo64 or similar software, check how much power your gpu is using, I had a friend running 2 PCIe cables with one pigtail into a 3080 FTW3 which needed 3 PCIe cables and according to that it was suffering from reliable voltage limits.

 

In his case, "Reliability Voltage" was reading yes in things like Furmark, and the card was only pulling around 280w when it should be over 320w. If it says yes for you, then I'd think its an issue related to power delivery.

image.png.0e7242a89183528680d831674ae7b873.png

I ran benchmark in Red Dead Redemption 2 and when it finished,I checked Reliability Voltage and reading was ''no''

I heard that Furmark may fry GPU and it's totally unreliable,so I'm kinda afraid to use it.

5 hours ago, SavageNeo said:

Because games do not use 16gb of ram. I know that since i have 32gb of ram and most games use under 10gb anyway :/

 

Why does game developers recommend 16GB then?

It's not like other 6GB were used for other programs in background,right?

4 hours ago, RejZoR said:

WHat's your storage medium your game is installed on? HDD or SSD and what type?

My whole system is installed on 1TB WD Blue HDD.

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Ok lads, we have a culprit here. It's the fact he's running HDD. I've seen so many games stutter when HDD was used to run the game even when there is plenty of RAM and VRAM involved because most games these days use texture streaming and fetching them on-demand from HDD causes tiny delays which result in stuttering because HDD just can't keep up with the games. It works, but it doens't work great.

 

@Chris Redfield

The rest of your system is fine, HDD is your weak spot. I suggest you either go with SSD of same size. Your stuttering will be gone with SSD, I can pretty much guarantee you that.

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I really don't know what to think.Some of you say it's my RAM,other said it's almost definitely PSU and now it's my HDD.

Can you all agree on one component?

Also,I'm not sure why my GPU usage is low,and I noticed that stuttering happens when usage drops.

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23 minutes ago, Chris Redfield said:

I really don't know what to think.Some of you say it's my RAM,other said it's almost definitely PSU and now it's my HDD.

Can you all agree on one component?

Also,I'm not sure why my GPU usage is low,and I noticed that stuttering happens when usage drops.

Thats the thing with "troubleshooting" it could be many different things... 

 

but it's not really hard to understand that this is likely caused by a not fully properly working psu so that's where you start with "troubleshooting". 

 

I already said this we can theorize all day, if you refuse to try out some things it'll lead to nothing (most likely) and just waste time. 

The direction tells you... the direction

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1 minute ago, Mark Kaine said:

Thats the thing with "troubleshooting" it could be many different things... 

 

but it's not really hard to understand that this is likely caused by a not fully properly working psu so that's where you start with "troubleshooting". 

 

I already said this we can theorize all day, if you refuse to try out some things it'll lead to nothing (most likely) and just waste time. 

I would try new PSU or SSD,but I need to buy it since everyone I know don't own powerful PC like I do,so their PSU is much,much weaker.

They also don't use SSD.

I would need to buy either of those and I'm really short with money right now,so I don't want to make mistake and buy something that won't solve the problem.

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23 minutes ago, Chris Redfield said:

I really don't know what to think.Some of you say it's my RAM,other said it's almost definitely PSU and now it's my HDD.

Can you all agree on one component?

Also,I'm not sure why my GPU usage is low,and I noticed that stuttering happens when usage drops.

It's HDD with almost 100% certainty, especially if it's 5400 RPM version of WD Blue. RAM only causes stuttering if there is insufficient amount of it and system needs to scrub data to pagefile which is on HDD/SSD. Which shouldn't be the case with 16GB of RAM. Just slower RAM speed only causes lower framerate as whole and shouldn't really cause stuttering. PSU, unlikely because it would either work or wouldn't work and you'd be getting video adapter resets if GPU would be dropping out under load and constantly resetting. Besides, it's Seasonic 750W. It's not highest tier, but it's Seasonic, they don't make crap even in lower tiers.

 

There is no way testing this than getting SSD and running game from it. If you can get hands on one for testing...

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1 hour ago, RejZoR said:

It's HDD with almost 100% certainty, especially if it's 5400 RPM version of WD Blue. RAM only causes stuttering if there is insufficient amount of it and system needs to scrub data to pagefile which is on HDD/SSD. Which shouldn't be the case with 16GB of RAM. Just slower RAM speed only causes lower framerate as whole and shouldn't really cause stuttering. PSU, unlikely because it would either work or wouldn't work and you'd be getting video adapter resets if GPU would be dropping out under load and constantly resetting. Besides, it's Seasonic 750W. It's not highest tier, but it's Seasonic, they don't make crap even in lower tiers.

 

There is no way testing this than getting SSD and running game from it. If you can get hands on one for testing...

Actually,it's WD Blue with 7200 RPM.

Would that make any difference?

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33 minutes ago, Chris Redfield said:

Actually,it's WD Blue with 7200 RPM.

Would that make any difference?

If your CPU and GPU drop usage during the stutters, it's possible it's waiting on asset loading, which would point to hard drive. While 7200rpm is faster than 5400, either pale next to a solid state drive. And over time your drive will get fragmented and it will spend more time seeking mechanically for what it needs vs solid state. If you have a solid state drive, move the game there and try it out to see if the problem persists.

 

I have some games on a hard drive, specifically my laptop, where it will have similar asset loading issues resulting in pop in, stutter, and other performance issues. 

 

It will happen more in open world games that constantly have to load assets.


This is why the new SSD and direct storage technologies are so highly touted in the consoles.

 

Also anecdotal evidence, I have the 850w seasonic focus plus gold, and even with a +10% power limit on the 3080 (it gets to 360w) it runs fine at 100% load, no issues.

 

I also see the Performance Limit - Reliability Voltage hit yes sometimes, but after scouring the internet most people say this is normal and is part of GPU Turbo Boost 3.0.

Before you reply to my post, REFRESH. 99.99% chance I edited my post. 

 

My System: i7-13700KF // Corsair iCUE H150i Elite Capellix // MSI MPG Z690 Edge Wifi // 32GB DDR5 G. SKILL RIPJAWS S5 6000 CL32 // Nvidia RTX 4070 Super FE // Corsair 5000D Airflow // Corsair SP120 RGB Pro x7 // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w //1TB ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro/1TB Teamgroup MP33/2TB Seagate 7200RPM Hard Drive // Displays: LG Ultragear 32GP83B x2 // Royal Kludge RK100 // Logitech G Pro X Superlight // Sennheiser DROP PC38x

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