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Did nvidia kill hdmi cloners through driver updates?

f2bacon

I had the evga 2080 super. 4 outputs. I have 6 "monitors". I have a samsung chg90 set for picture-by-picture so it treats it as 2 separate monitors. I have 2 regular monitors, a projector, and a tv by my bed.
My setup that worked for years with an rx580, rtx 2060, and 2070s was using an hdmi cloner to copy output to the left side of the chg90, the tv, and the projector. so i could have all the options. and then 3 monitors regular.
It worked fine for ages until a geforce update made the hdmi duplicator not work. Nothing I could do. No cable setup got it to work. What blew my mind was that if I rolled back drivers it would work again. So I've been using the older driver for a couple weeks cause I figured okay I'm gonna upgrade to the 3080 tuf and I'm sure everything will just work.

Now I got my 3080 tuf and same story, but there's no old driver to roll back to. I'm trying to figure out how to set this up. I'll drop full specs on everything and a diagram to better explain how I have it all set up.


GPU: EVGA RTX 2080 Super FTW3 / Asus 3080 tuf
CPU: Ryzen 5 3600
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken x52
MOBO: Asus Tuf B550m Gaming Plus
Ram: Corsair Vengeance 32gb ddr4 3200mhz
PSU: EVGA 750w G3

Sorry the diagram looks like it was made on mspaint. My work used to pay for photoshop but that ran out so I had to use gimp

Untitled.png

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Nvidia most likely changed how the handshake works. While not a fix to the driver issue, one of these EDID passthrough emulators may help deal Nvidia's driver wonkiness. I had a similar issue on a Radeon card, and this was a moderately cheap workaround.

Primary Gaming Rig:

Ryzen 5 5600 CPU, Gigabyte B450 I AORUS PRO WIFI mITX motherboard, PNY XLR8 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 RAM, Mushkin PILOT 500GB SSD (boot), Corsair Force 3 480GB SSD (games), XFX RX 5700 8GB GPU, Fractal Design Node 202 HTPC Case, Corsair SF 450 W 80+ Gold SFX PSU, Windows 11 Pro, Dell S2719DGF 27.0" 2560x1440 155 Hz Monitor, Corsair K68 RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard (MX Brown), Logitech G900 CHAOS SPECTRUM Wireless Mouse, Logitech G533 Headset

 

HTPC/Gaming Rig:

Ryzen 7 3700X CPU, ASRock B450M Pro4 mATX Motherboard, ADATA XPG GAMMIX D20 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 RAM, Mushkin PILOT 1TB SSD (boot), 2x Seagate BarraCuda 1 TB 3.5" HDD (data), Seagate BarraCuda 4 TB 3.5" HDD (DVR), PowerColor RX VEGA 56 8GB GPU, Fractal Design Node 804 mATX Case, Cooler Master MasterWatt 550 W 80+ Bronze Semi-modular ATX PSU, Silverstone SST-SOB02 Blu-Ray Writer, Windows 11 Pro, Logitech K400 Plus Keyboard, Corsair K63 Lapboard Combo (MX Red w/Blue LED), Logitech G603 Wireless Mouse, Kingston HyperX Cloud Stinger Headset, HAUPPAUGE WinTV-quadHD TV Tuner, Samsung 65RU9000 TV

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3 minutes ago, Kid.Lazer said:

 this was a moderately cheap workaround.

Oh I've never heard of this. I would just need 1 that goes from the gpu to the splitter? I assume I would put it on the splitter side? Or gpu side? or both?

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Yep, just one directly in the GPU (source), then your cable to the splitter (sink) would plug into that. They usually are labeled, but they always plug directly into the source. It can be very useful to help complete the handshake between stubborn devices.

Primary Gaming Rig:

Ryzen 5 5600 CPU, Gigabyte B450 I AORUS PRO WIFI mITX motherboard, PNY XLR8 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 RAM, Mushkin PILOT 500GB SSD (boot), Corsair Force 3 480GB SSD (games), XFX RX 5700 8GB GPU, Fractal Design Node 202 HTPC Case, Corsair SF 450 W 80+ Gold SFX PSU, Windows 11 Pro, Dell S2719DGF 27.0" 2560x1440 155 Hz Monitor, Corsair K68 RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard (MX Brown), Logitech G900 CHAOS SPECTRUM Wireless Mouse, Logitech G533 Headset

 

HTPC/Gaming Rig:

Ryzen 7 3700X CPU, ASRock B450M Pro4 mATX Motherboard, ADATA XPG GAMMIX D20 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 RAM, Mushkin PILOT 1TB SSD (boot), 2x Seagate BarraCuda 1 TB 3.5" HDD (data), Seagate BarraCuda 4 TB 3.5" HDD (DVR), PowerColor RX VEGA 56 8GB GPU, Fractal Design Node 804 mATX Case, Cooler Master MasterWatt 550 W 80+ Bronze Semi-modular ATX PSU, Silverstone SST-SOB02 Blu-Ray Writer, Windows 11 Pro, Logitech K400 Plus Keyboard, Corsair K63 Lapboard Combo (MX Red w/Blue LED), Logitech G603 Wireless Mouse, Kingston HyperX Cloud Stinger Headset, HAUPPAUGE WinTV-quadHD TV Tuner, Samsung 65RU9000 TV

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1 minute ago, Kid.Lazer said:

Yep, just one directly in the GPU 

Thanks a ton! I ordered this for overnight, I really hope this is a simple solution cause then I could just put everything back how it was

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On 11/24/2020 at 1:04 PM, Kid.Lazer said:

It can be very useful to help complete the handshake between stubborn devices.

It worked! I can't explain it but it worked!!! Thanks so much!!!!

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1 hour ago, f2bacon said:

It worked! I can't explain it but it worked!!! Thanks so much!!!!

It probably downgrades it to HDMI 1.4b, fine if it's not HDR/UHD. HDMI 1.4b uses the older DRM, which HDMI clone/distribution devices use by handshaking the first monitor and copying it to the others. This is also how you get the Xbox 360/Xbox One, PS3/PS4, Wii/WiiU/Switch and Mac/iPad/iPhone to output a signal that can be captured by a capture card. The Mac usually runs in a HDCP mode on-always, where as Windows only turns it on when video is played, and will just show nothing on the screen if the monitor doesn't support it, and if you clone a HDMI monitor to another HDMI monitor in software on the computer, the non-HDCP compliant device (eg graphics tablets and such) will just refuse to play at all, and you have to actually unplug it and reboot before Windows will allow the HDMI HDCP again.

 

The EDID passthru is basically what the older models of hdmi 1.4 cloners do, except it's in a stand alone device.

 

 

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