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AMD Ryzen 7 3700x running way too hot

I recently changed the motherboard of my prebuilt pc along with adding an m.2 ssd and some new 3000 mhz ram and so I had to basically un-build and re-build my whole PC. The prebuilt pc came with a crappy a320m motherboard and I changed it to a TUF GAMING B550M-PLUS. I removed the old thermal paste and applied some corsair paste (I double-checked whether the paste was spread evenly across the CPU before putting the stock wraith prism cooler back into place). One thing I noticed is that for some reason the wraith prism cooler is slightly tilted/rotated to one side (very slightly though, you'd have to be looking pretty hard to notice it).

So basically the issue is that I have very high temperatures. Idle temperatures are anywhere between 45-60 celsius and basically whenever I do something on the pc it can spike up all the way to the 70s. When I play games it can even go as high as 85 celsius. I disabled PBO and I set the fan to go to 100% usage once the temperature hits 65 celsius. If there's any setting I'm supposed to turn on/off in the bios that I'm missing or if there's anything else wrong please let me know.

Specs:

  • AMD Ryzen 7 3700X with the stock wraith prism cooler
  • 16GB DDR4 RAM (slots 2 and 4, 3000 mhz)
  • 500GB Kingston m.2 ssd (windows 10 boot drive)
  • 480GB Intenso SATA 3 SSD
  • 2TB HDD
  • Nvidia RTX 2070 by Zotac
  • TUF GAMING B550M-PLUS
  • 650W Seasonic PSU
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8 minutes ago, VibeChecker said:

I recently changed the motherboard of my prebuilt pc along with adding an m.2 ssd and some new 3000 mhz ram and so I had to basically un-build and re-build my whole PC. The prebuilt pc came with a crappy a320m motherboard and I changed it to a TUF GAMING B550M-PLUS. I removed the old thermal paste and applied some corsair paste (I double-checked whether the paste was spread evenly across the CPU before putting the stock wraith prism cooler back into place). One thing I noticed is that for some reason the wraith prism cooler is slightly tilted/rotated to one side (very slightly though, you'd have to be looking pretty hard to notice it).

So basically the issue is that I have very high temperatures. Idle temperatures are anywhere between 45-60 celsius and basically whenever I do something on the pc it can spike up all the way to the 70s. When I play games it can even go as high as 85 celsius. I disabled PBO and I set the fan to go to 100% usage once the temperature hits 65 celsius. If there's any setting I'm supposed to turn on/off in the bios that I'm missing or if there's anything else wrong please let me know.

Specs:

  • AMD Ryzen 7 3700X with the stock wraith prism cooler
  • 16GB DDR4 RAM (slots 2 and 4, 3000 mhz)
  • 500GB Kingston m.2 ssd (windows 10 boot drive)
  • 480GB Intenso SATA 3 SSD
  • 2TB HDD
  • Nvidia RTX 2070 by Zotac
  • TUF GAMING B550M-PLUS
  • 650W Seasonic PSU

hey there. You could try tightening the mounting brackets a bit more to see if the extra pressure helps.

I have found personally that higher performance thermal pastes don't make much of a difference, maybe a few degrees.

I'm currently experimenting with liquid metal on my gpu with some impressive early results but couldn't recommend that yet.

Most people would probably say buy a better cooler and if increasing the mounting pressure doesn't help then I'd probably advise that too.

 

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Max temp 95C

image.thumb.png.a86c4f0d3bf949f1f79f758d95acb538.png

 

Get new cooler or try reseating CPU with better thermal paste.

CPU: Ryzen 5800X3D | Motherboard: Gigabyte B550 Elite V2 | RAM: G.Skill Aegis 2x16gb 3200 @3600mhz | PSU: EVGA SuperNova 750 G3 | Monitor: LG 27GL850-B , Samsung C27HG70 | 
GPU: Red Devil RX 7900XT | Sound: Odac + Fiio E09K | Case: Fractal Design R6 TG Blackout |Storage: MP510 960gb and 860 Evo 500gb | Cooling: CPU: Noctua NH-D15 with one fan

FS in Denmark/EU:

Asus Dual GTX 1060 3GB. Used maximum 4 months total. Looks like new. Card never opened. Give me a price. 

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1 minute ago, Shabba said:

hey there. You could try tightening the mounting brackets a bit more to see if the extra pressure helps.

I have found personally that higher performance thermal pastes don't make much of a difference, maybe a few degrees.

I'm currently experimenting with liquid metal on my gpu with some impressive early results but couldn't recommend that yet.

Most people would probably say buy a better cooler and if increasing the mounting pressure doesn't help then I'd probably advise that too.

Alright, but the problem is that my temperatures used to be slightly lower before switching the mobo, what caused them to increase?

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1 minute ago, DoctorNick said:

Get new cooler or try reseating CPU with better thermal paste.

the problem is that my temperatures used to be slightly lower before switching the mobo, what caused them to increase?

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2 minutes ago, Shabba said:

hey there. You could try tightening the mounting brackets a bit more to see if the extra pressure helps.

I have found personally that higher performance thermal pastes don't make much of a difference, maybe a few degrees.

I'm currently experimenting with liquid metal on my gpu with some impressive early results but couldn't recommend that yet.

Most people would probably say buy a better cooler and if increasing the mounting pressure doesn't help then I'd probably advise that too.

 

Pretty hard to increase mounting pressure on a wraith prism

CPU: Ryzen 5800X3D | Motherboard: Gigabyte B550 Elite V2 | RAM: G.Skill Aegis 2x16gb 3200 @3600mhz | PSU: EVGA SuperNova 750 G3 | Monitor: LG 27GL850-B , Samsung C27HG70 | 
GPU: Red Devil RX 7900XT | Sound: Odac + Fiio E09K | Case: Fractal Design R6 TG Blackout |Storage: MP510 960gb and 860 Evo 500gb | Cooling: CPU: Noctua NH-D15 with one fan

FS in Denmark/EU:

Asus Dual GTX 1060 3GB. Used maximum 4 months total. Looks like new. Card never opened. Give me a price. 

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1 minute ago, VibeChecker said:

Alright, but the problem is that my temperatures used to be slightly lower before switching the mobo, what caused them to increase?

Are you 100% sure? Couldn't be ambient temps that are slighty hotter? Could be new motherboard applying slighty more voltage. Have you noticed an increase in clock speed. You run with PBO enabled/auto?

CPU: Ryzen 5800X3D | Motherboard: Gigabyte B550 Elite V2 | RAM: G.Skill Aegis 2x16gb 3200 @3600mhz | PSU: EVGA SuperNova 750 G3 | Monitor: LG 27GL850-B , Samsung C27HG70 | 
GPU: Red Devil RX 7900XT | Sound: Odac + Fiio E09K | Case: Fractal Design R6 TG Blackout |Storage: MP510 960gb and 860 Evo 500gb | Cooling: CPU: Noctua NH-D15 with one fan

FS in Denmark/EU:

Asus Dual GTX 1060 3GB. Used maximum 4 months total. Looks like new. Card never opened. Give me a price. 

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Just now, DoctorNick said:

Are you 100% sure? Couldn't be ambient temps that are slighty hotter? Could be new motherboard applying slighty more voltage. Have you noticed an increase in clock speed. You run with PBO enabled/auto?

I disabled PBO but I'm thinking of turning it back on since I increased the fan speed. I still don't like that the fan has to go to 100% just to maintain an "okay"-ish temperature though.

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4 minutes ago, VibeChecker said:

Alright, but the problem is that my temperatures used to be slightly lower before switching the mobo, what caused them to increase?

because when you switched the motherboard you would have had to refit the cpu and the cooler so maybe the mounting pressure isn't exactly the same as before.

Like I said try tightening it a bit and if that doesn't help get a new cooler

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1 minute ago, VibeChecker said:

I disabled PBO but I'm thinking of turning it back on since I increased the fan speed. I still don't like that the fan has to go to 100% just to maintain an "okay"-ish temperature though.

Can't expect too much on stock cooler. What paste did you use, when installing on the new mobo?

CPU: Ryzen 5800X3D | Motherboard: Gigabyte B550 Elite V2 | RAM: G.Skill Aegis 2x16gb 3200 @3600mhz | PSU: EVGA SuperNova 750 G3 | Monitor: LG 27GL850-B , Samsung C27HG70 | 
GPU: Red Devil RX 7900XT | Sound: Odac + Fiio E09K | Case: Fractal Design R6 TG Blackout |Storage: MP510 960gb and 860 Evo 500gb | Cooling: CPU: Noctua NH-D15 with one fan

FS in Denmark/EU:

Asus Dual GTX 1060 3GB. Used maximum 4 months total. Looks like new. Card never opened. Give me a price. 

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Just now, DoctorNick said:

Can't expect too much on stock cooler. What paste did you use, when installing on the new mobo?

Corsair TM30

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8 minutes ago, Shabba said:

because when you switched the motherboard you would have had to refit the cpu and the cooler so maybe the mounting pressure isn't exactly the same as before.

Like I said try tightening it a bit and if that doesn't help get a new cooler

FYI this is the cooler installation: https://www.amd.com/en/support/kb/faq/cpu-7#faq-Installing-the-CPU-Cooler

Aka only a clamp for pressure.

 

6 minutes ago, VibeChecker said:

Corsair TM30

Could be slightly worse than AMD stock paste:

Source Guru3d, Cryorig R1 Ultimate cooler: https://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/guru3d_thermal_paste_roundup_2019,8.html

image.png.0e1f75b7706c7fde97c36cc6dc33e722.png

CPU: Ryzen 5800X3D | Motherboard: Gigabyte B550 Elite V2 | RAM: G.Skill Aegis 2x16gb 3200 @3600mhz | PSU: EVGA SuperNova 750 G3 | Monitor: LG 27GL850-B , Samsung C27HG70 | 
GPU: Red Devil RX 7900XT | Sound: Odac + Fiio E09K | Case: Fractal Design R6 TG Blackout |Storage: MP510 960gb and 860 Evo 500gb | Cooling: CPU: Noctua NH-D15 with one fan

FS in Denmark/EU:

Asus Dual GTX 1060 3GB. Used maximum 4 months total. Looks like new. Card never opened. Give me a price. 

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1 minute ago, DoctorNick said:

Could be slightly worse than AMD stock paste:

Source Guru3d, Cryorig R1 Ultimate cooler: https://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/guru3d_thermal_paste_roundup_2019,8.html

I really don't want to change the thermal paste, working in this mid tower case is very fiddly and annoying and I don't want to risk breaking anything. Is there anything I could do in the bios to combat this?

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30 minutes ago, VibeChecker said:

I recently changed the motherboard of my prebuilt pc along with adding an m.2 ssd and some new 3000 mhz ram and so I had to basically un-build and re-build my whole PC. The prebuilt pc came with a crappy a320m motherboard and I changed it to a TUF GAMING B550M-PLUS. I removed the old thermal paste and applied some corsair paste (I double-checked whether the paste was spread evenly across the CPU before putting the stock wraith prism cooler back into place). One thing I noticed is that for some reason the wraith prism cooler is slightly tilted/rotated to one side (very slightly though, you'd have to be looking pretty hard to notice it).

So basically the issue is that I have very high temperatures. Idle temperatures are anywhere between 45-60 celsius and basically whenever I do something on the pc it can spike up all the way to the 70s. When I play games it can even go as high as 85 celsius. I disabled PBO and I set the fan to go to 100% usage once the temperature hits 65 celsius. If there's any setting I'm supposed to turn on/off in the bios that I'm missing or if there's anything else wrong please let me know.

Specs:

  • AMD Ryzen 7 3700X with the stock wraith prism cooler
  • 16GB DDR4 RAM (slots 2 and 4, 3000 mhz)
  • 500GB Kingston m.2 ssd (windows 10 boot drive)
  • 480GB Intenso SATA 3 SSD
  • 2TB HDD
  • Nvidia RTX 2070 by Zotac
  • TUF GAMING B550M-PLUS
  • 650W Seasonic PSU

You've upgraded to a board with a much larger VRM package. 

The VRMs and Cpu will share some heat through the tracings in the PCB, thus the higher average temps.

Also, some thermal pastes will actually perform better after a nice burn in. 

This burn in period can take a couple of days to a couple of weeks depending on how heavy the usage is.

Your temps are fine otherwise. Nothing to really worry about here. Not much we can do to battle transistor density.

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4 minutes ago, VibeChecker said:

I really don't want to change the thermal paste, working in this mid tower case is very fiddly and annoying and I don't want to risk breaking anything. Is there anything I could do in the bios to combat this?

You can try with less vcore. Setting a negative offset for instance. I would also recommend disabling PBO or just setting it to auto if you want to lower vcore.

CPU: Ryzen 5800X3D | Motherboard: Gigabyte B550 Elite V2 | RAM: G.Skill Aegis 2x16gb 3200 @3600mhz | PSU: EVGA SuperNova 750 G3 | Monitor: LG 27GL850-B , Samsung C27HG70 | 
GPU: Red Devil RX 7900XT | Sound: Odac + Fiio E09K | Case: Fractal Design R6 TG Blackout |Storage: MP510 960gb and 860 Evo 500gb | Cooling: CPU: Noctua NH-D15 with one fan

FS in Denmark/EU:

Asus Dual GTX 1060 3GB. Used maximum 4 months total. Looks like new. Card never opened. Give me a price. 

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1 minute ago, ShrimpBrime said:

You've upgraded to a board with a much larger VRM package. 

The VRMs and Cpu will share some heat through the tracings in the PCB, thus the higher average temps.

Also, some thermal pastes will actually perform better after a nice burn in. 

This burn in period can take a couple of days to a couple of weeks depending on how heavy the usage is.

Your temps are fine otherwise. Nothing to really worry about here. Not much we can do to battle transistor density.

Looking back I may have also applied a bit too much thermal paste, could that cause an issue aswell? I just wanted to make sure that it's spread evenly across the entire cpu.

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2 minutes ago, VibeChecker said:

Looking back I may have also applied a bit too much thermal paste, could that cause an issue aswell? I just wanted to make sure that it's spread evenly across the entire cpu.

Depends on how much. Most of it should just be pressed over the edge of the cpu die. In most cases you get better performance with a little too much, than too little.

Why not just get a new CPU cooler? If you want something cheap you can go for something like a EVO 212: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/HyTPxr/cooler-master-hyper-212-black-edition-420-cfm-cpu-cooler-rr-212s-20pk-r1

CPU: Ryzen 5800X3D | Motherboard: Gigabyte B550 Elite V2 | RAM: G.Skill Aegis 2x16gb 3200 @3600mhz | PSU: EVGA SuperNova 750 G3 | Monitor: LG 27GL850-B , Samsung C27HG70 | 
GPU: Red Devil RX 7900XT | Sound: Odac + Fiio E09K | Case: Fractal Design R6 TG Blackout |Storage: MP510 960gb and 860 Evo 500gb | Cooling: CPU: Noctua NH-D15 with one fan

FS in Denmark/EU:

Asus Dual GTX 1060 3GB. Used maximum 4 months total. Looks like new. Card never opened. Give me a price. 

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I have the 2700x and was forced to get an AIO as the fan supplied with it wasnt upto the task of cooling it hitting 85*c while gaming.

MAIN PC (Beast) - Asus ROG Crosshair Hero VII WIFI  with BIOS 4703, AMD Ryzen R9 3900XT + Corsair H115i Pro RGB XT Cooling, 32GB G.Skill 3200Mhz 16,18,18,38 1.35v DDR4, Inno3d HerculeZ Design Nvidia GTX 1080 X2 8GB GDDR5,  1 x Samsung U28E590D & 1 x Samsung U32J59XUQ 3840 x 2160 4K, 1 x Samsung Evo 970 Evo Plus NVME PCI-E 1TB, 1 x Samsung Evo 850 250GB, 1 X Sandisk Ultra II SSD 240GB + 2 X 3TB Seagate Barracuda SATA III, 1 x LG BH16NS40 16x BR\DVDRW, ICYBOX IB3740-C31 & ICYBOX IB3640-03,  MZHOU 7 Ports PCIe USB 3.0 Card, 1 x XIAOLO 2.5G Intel I225V Ethernet Card, 2 x UGREEN Hard Drive Enclosure 3.5 inch External SATA Disk Caddy Reader USB 3.0 2.5 3.5 HDD SSD 16TB UASP Case Dock Station With 12V 2A Power Adapter For Windows with 6TB Seagate Barracuda SATA III, Corsair Obsidian 750D Wind Force Edition Case + 5 Corsair ML140 140mm Case Fans, EVGA 750 g3 750w Gold 80+ PSU, Logitech MX Vertical Mouse, Logitech MX Vertical & MX Ergo Trackball Mouse using same USB unifying device, Microsoft Ergonomic Keyboard, Windows 11 Pro x64 Retail, Synology ds215j NAS + 1x3TB WD Reds connected to a 6TB Seagate USB 3.0 Backup Plus Hub, Blue Yeti Microphone, Logitech C922 Pro HD,  Logitech C920 Pro HD, Bit Defender Total Security 2021.

 

Second PC (Cyclops) - MSI 990FXA Gaming, AMD FX 8370 4Ghz, Corsair 16GB Vengeance Red 9-9-9-24 1600Mhz, Arctic Cooling Freezer 13, Asus Strix 1050TI 4GB, 1 X Acer 27" Full HD Monitor, 1 X Sandisk Ultra II SSD 240GB, 1 x Samsung Evo 850 250GB, 2 X Seagate Barracuda 2TB, 1 X WD Black 2TB, 1 x ASUS 16x DVDRW, X-Case Eagle III Case, 3 X Corsair AF 120 Case Fans, EVGA 850 G2 80+ Gold + PSU, Logitech MX Master Mouse, Corsair K30 Keyboard, Logitech C920 Webcam, R0DE NT1-A Microphone, Scarlet 212 Audio Interface (Revision 2), Windows 10 Pro X64 Retail, Bit Defender Total Security 2021, 2TB Seagate Expansion USB Hard Drive.

 

Third PC (Old Trustie) - Acer Aspire M3400, OEM Mainboard, AMD FX Athlon II X3 425 2.7Ghz, 16GB Corsair Value 1600Mhz Ram, OEM CPU Cooler, AMD R7 260 2GB GPU, 1 X Acer 27" Full HD Monitor, 1 X Sandisk Ultra II SSD 240GB, 2TB Samsung SATA III, 1 X OEM 16X DVDRW, 1 X Acer OEM Case, 1 X Corsair AF120 Case Can, Corsair CX500 Bronze+ CPU, Logitech MX Master Mouse, Corsair K30 Keyboard, Windows 10 Home X64 OEM, Logitech C920 Webcam, Bit Defender Total Security 2021.

 

Printers Include - Canon MG5750, Canon, IP8750,  Canon Pixma Mega tank G5050 & 2 X Samsung Xpress C410W.

 

1 X Zexrow Xbox360 Wired Game Controller.

 

TP Link Archer AX6000 Cable Router Wifi6 with a Virgin Media Hub 4.0 in Modem only mode running 1GB Fibre internet.

 

Samsung Galaxy S21+ 256GB Mobile Phone.

 

Internet Speed.....

https://www.speedtest.net/result/9935039193

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2 minutes ago, DoctorNick said:

Depends on how much. Most of it should just be pressed over the edge of the cpu die. In most cases you get better performance with a little too much, than too little.

Why not just get a new CPU cooler? If you want something cheap you can go for something like a EVO 212: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/HyTPxr/cooler-master-hyper-212-black-edition-420-cfm-cpu-cooler-rr-212s-20pk-r1

I guess I might in the future, but it for now I think I'll just deal with the slightly louder fan.

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Just now, VibeChecker said:

I guess I might in the future, but it for now I think I'll just deal with the slightly louder fan.

Try reseating the cooler with a blob on the cpu. If you can't determine what is the exact center, then apply on cooler if paste is not to viscous. :) 

 

CPU: Ryzen 5800X3D | Motherboard: Gigabyte B550 Elite V2 | RAM: G.Skill Aegis 2x16gb 3200 @3600mhz | PSU: EVGA SuperNova 750 G3 | Monitor: LG 27GL850-B , Samsung C27HG70 | 
GPU: Red Devil RX 7900XT | Sound: Odac + Fiio E09K | Case: Fractal Design R6 TG Blackout |Storage: MP510 960gb and 860 Evo 500gb | Cooling: CPU: Noctua NH-D15 with one fan

FS in Denmark/EU:

Asus Dual GTX 1060 3GB. Used maximum 4 months total. Looks like new. Card never opened. Give me a price. 

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The 3000 series runs hot like that on the stock cooler unless you undervolt. 1.15-1.2v should allow you to get decent clocks (3900mhz+ unless you have a really bad cpu)

You may even run higher clocks under sustained loads like I did before going ham on my undervolt (I had 4.1ghz all core under 1.2v regular program max temp 76ºC. stock operation peaked at 4ghz, throttled me down to 3.7ghz in sustained loads with temps approaching 90ºC.

desktop

Spoiler

r5 3600,3450@0.9v (0.875v get) 4.2ghz@1.25v (1.212 get) | custom loop cpu&gpu 1260mm nexxos xt45 | MSI b450i gaming ac | crucial ballistix 2x8 3000c15->3733c15@1.39v(1.376v get) |Zotac 2060 amp | 256GB Samsung 950 pro nvme | 1TB Adata su800 | 4TB HGST drive | Silverstone SX500-LG

HTPC

Spoiler

HTPC i3 7300 | Gigabyte GA-B250M-DS3H | 16GB G Skill | Adata XPG SX8000 128GB M.2 | Many HDDs | Rosewill FBM-01 | Corsair CXM 450W

 

 

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