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Is there a way to tell how reliable this 10yo+ 1000W PSU will be?

LloydLynx

I got this old ULT-HE1000X PSU from an old dieing gaming PC of little known origin, dieing of motherboard issues. I could definitely use the PSU for Optiplex upgrades, but I question it's reliability, even though it seems to be in perfect condition. Is there a way to tell if I can get a few years of reliable service out of it? The PSU fan looks and sounds mint👌, and there's so little dust I'd guess this was hardly used. That gives me some confidence. I'm willing to take a look inside, of course knowing the fatal dangers of touching those charged cap leads. All the decent electrical equipment I have is an analogue multimeter and an old oscilloscope with one working channel.

lumpy chunks

 

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10 years old, don't use it, needs to be replaced.

 

 

i9 9900K @ 5.0 GHz, NH D15, 32 GB DDR4 3200 GSKILL Trident Z RGB, AORUS Z390 MASTER, EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Samsung 860 EVO 500GB, ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q 27", Steel Series APEX PRO, Logitech Gaming Pro Mouse, CM Master Case 5, Corsair AXI 1600W Titanium. 

 

i7 8086K, AORUS Z370 Gaming 5, 16GB GSKILL RJV DDR4 3200, EVGA 2080TI FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 970 EVO 250GB, (2)SAMSUNG 860 EVO 500 GB, Acer Predator XB1 XB271HU, Corsair HXI 850W.

 

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22 minutes ago, TheJooomes said:

I got this old ULT-HE1000X PSU from an old dieing gaming PC of little known origin, dieing of motherboard issues. I could definitely use the PSU for Optiplex upgrades, but I question it's reliability, even though it seems to be in perfect condition. Is there a way to tell if I can get a few years of reliable service out of it? The PSU fan looks and sounds mint👌, and there's so little dust I'd guess this was hardly used. That gives me some confidence. I'm willing to take a look inside, of course knowing the fatal dangers of touching those charged cap leads. All the decent electrical equipment I have is an analogue multimeter and an old oscilloscope with one working channel.

It's an Andyson rebrand, released in 2007. The PC was probably dying because the PSU was drifting out of spec and slowly, brutally murdering it.

 

If you ever need to get rid of some evidence, all you have to do is hook it up, toss some loose papers around the floor near the tower, boot up, start running Prime95 and walk away. Should be very reliable in that application.

Aerocool DS are the best fans you've never tried.

 

Hypnotoad's RAM is dying, his motherboard is acting like the 6-year-old AsRock it is, a couple of SATA ports have just stopped working, but the RGB remains. The RGB always remains. Hypnotoad lives. All glory to the Hypnotoad.

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Quality power supplies run their course after 10 years

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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A 1000W el cheapo and a 1000W not so cheapo do the same job. El cheapo lifts an amp and needs a coffee break. Not so cheapo lifts an amp with tools and keeps lifting them all day long. 

 

Good real life example is: I have a rig consisting of i7-7700k and a R9 390X. All the calculators online tell me I should have a minimum of 600W powersupply, with 400W total system power requirements. But I have 500W passive power supply (GPS-500C). Have had the rig for 3 years and no problem what so ever under load. 

 

The thing is: a cheap 500W power supply has components with lower specs, thus the actual stable amps and voltages are far less. You could say the 80+ standard is a good rule of thumb. a 500W bronze psu with 80% could be taken as 80% of stated capacity, which would be 400W (realistically, it would be considered even lower, but thats down to all of the power grid factors.) A 500W platinum psu with 90+% could be taken as 450W...but with the caveat that these sorts of power supplies have extra features, quality control and component selection to ensure that 450W is maintained or at least kept in check and accounted for.  

 

Not saying an expensive psu cant have problems, but I would trust something designed to spec rather than something designed to cost

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3 minutes ago, PriitM said:

The thing is: a cheap 500W power supply has components with lower specs, thus the actual stable amps and voltages are far less. You could say the 80+ standard is a good rule of thumb. a 500W bronze psu with 80% could be taken as 80% of stated capacity, which would be 400W (realistically, it would be considered even lower, but thats down to all of the power grid factors.) A 500W platinum psu with 90+% could be taken as 450W...but with the caveat that these sorts of power supplies have extra features, quality control and component selection to ensure that 450W is maintained or at least kept in check and accounted for.  

not how it works. effiency= is not quality.

 

there are 80+ titaniums that are worse than 80+ silvers.

QUOTE ME  FOR ANSWER.

 

Main PC:

Spoiler

|Ryzen 7 3700x, OC to 4.2ghz @1.3V, 67C, or 4.4ghz @1.456V, 87C || Asus strix 5700 XT, +50 core, +50 memory, +50 power (not a great overclocker) || Asus Strix b550-A || G.skill trident Z Neo rgb 32gb 3600mhz cl16-19-19-19-39, oc to 3733mhz with the same timings || Cooler Master ml360 RGB AIO || Phanteks P500A Digital || Thermaltake ToughPower grand RGB750w 80+gold || Samsung 850 250gb and Adata SX 6000 Lite 500gb || Toshiba 5400rpm 1tb || Asus Rog Theta 7.1 || Asus Rog claymore || Asus Gladius 2 origin gaming mouse || Monitor 1 Asus 1080p 144hz || Monitor 2 AOC 1080p 75hz || 

Test Rig.

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Ryzen 5 3400G || Gigabyte b450 S2H || Hyper X fury 2x4gb 2666mhz cl 16 ||Stock cooler || Antec NX100 || Silverstone essential 400w || Transgend SSD 220s 480gb ||

Just Sold

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| i3 9100F || Msi Gaming X gtx 1050 TI || MSI Z390 A-Pro || Kingston 1x16gb 2400mhz cl17 || Stock cooler || Kolink Horizon RGB || Corsair CV 550w || Pny CS900 120gb ||

 

Tier lists for building a PC.

 

Motherboard tier list. Tier A for overclocking 5950x. Tier B for overclocking 5900x, Tier C for overclocking 5800X. Tier D for overclocking 5600X. Tier F for 4/6 core Cpus at stock. Tier E avoid.

(Also case airflow matter or if you are using Downcraft air cooler)

Spoiler

 

Gpu tier list. Rtx 3000 and RX 6000 not included since not so many reviews. Tier S for Water cooling. Tier A and B for overcloking. Tier C stock and Tier D avoid.

( You can overclock Tier C just fine, but it can get very loud, that is why it is not recommended for overclocking, same with tier D)

Spoiler

 

Psu tier List. Tier A for Rtx 3000, Vega and RX 6000. Tier B For anything else. Tier C cheap/IGPU. Tier D and E avoid.

(RTX 3000/ RX 6000 Might run just fine with higher wattage tier B unit, Rtx 3070 runs fine with tier B units)

Spoiler

 

Cpu cooler tier list. Tier 1&2 for power hungry Cpus with Overclock. Tier 3&4 for overclocking Ryzen 3,5,7 or lower power Intel Cpus. Tier 5 for overclocking low end Cpus or 4/6 core Ryzen. Tier 6&7 for stock. Tier 8&9 Ryzen stock cooler performance. Do not waste your money!

Spoiler

 

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(With a grain of salt, I use tier C for OS myself)

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Case Tier List. Work In Progress. Most Phanteks airflow series cases already done!

Ask me anything :)

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7 hours ago, PriitM said:

The thing is: a cheap 500W power supply has components with lower specs, thus the actual stable amps and voltages are far less. You could say the 80+ standard is a good rule of thumb. a 500W bronze psu with 80% could be taken as 80% of stated capacity, which would be 400W (realistically, it would be considered even lower, but thats down to all of the power grid factors.) A 500W platinum psu with 90+% could be taken as 450W...but with the caveat that these sorts of power supplies have extra features, quality control and component selection to ensure that 450W is maintained or at least kept in check and accounted for.  

This is flawed logic. All an 80+ Gold rating means is that the manufacturer sent the 80+ rating board a unit capable of meeting that efficiency. It means nothing about build quality or components used, just that a unit capable of that efficiency was sent for testing. Case in point: AT650BK. If you would risk your i7/390X system to a Logisys “650W” “80+ Gold” unit on the assumption that it’s capable of pushing 585W sustained...well... enjoy your new PC in a few months!

 

 There’s also another shady as hell practice that @jonnyGURU(IIRC) has alluded to in the past. Crap-tier manufacturers that want an 80+ or better unit will build a small number of units with high quality parts for 80+ testing then use “dirty ho in a Vegas back alley”-level parts for their production units. I’m not accusing Logisys or Ultra specifically of that, just saying that a highly reputable source has alluded to that.

 

 If you need a certain efficiency level, look first for a PSU of acceptable quality for your system. For a dual-2080 Ti/3950X setup, that’s probably a top of the line unit from a top-tier OEM. For most systems, it might be something more like a CX or CXM. Once you’ve found your performance and quality tier, start looking at other factors within that group, like efficiency and price. Buying a PSU based solely upon an 80+ rating is a good way to end up with a bad power supply.

Aerocool DS are the best fans you've never tried.

 

Hypnotoad's RAM is dying, his motherboard is acting like the 6-year-old AsRock it is, a couple of SATA ports have just stopped working, but the RGB remains. The RGB always remains. Hypnotoad lives. All glory to the Hypnotoad.

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