Good ups that can run a 1000w platinum psu?

cheesytacopastaman · October 22, 2020

On 10/19/2020 at 6:52 PM, BenOver said:

Overclocking an 11900k/5900x with a 3080 also overclocked ocing the ram too and some power hungry outside connections from the psu so yes it will

No, it won't. Not only is it probably not gonna be worth it to overclock, but even if you did, you'd still probably pull no more than 650 watts, 700 peak, from the wall. Not overclocked/factory OC for the GPU which will use like at least 100w less and you'll notice literally almost no difference. You don't need a 1000w UPS.

mariushm · October 22, 2020

Just in case it's not clear or obvious... the UPS rating in VA is NOT the same thing as the maximum power it can supply.

A 1000 VA UPS can not output 1000 watts continuously, or is not supposed to - the internals may be oversized, or if you're lucky they use the same components as bigger models and just label it with a lower rating.

That's why you'll see some UPS models say stuff like 1500 VA true sine power output max 900 watts or something like that.

You're looking at peaks of 320 watts for the 3080 without overclocking, let's say it peaks at 350 watts when overclocked.

A processor like the one mentioned will peak at around 150-200 watts, if you overclock it heavily it may go to around 250 watts.

You're looking at around 20 watts for the fans and water cooling and maybe 20-40 watts in 3.3v and 5v for everything else in your computer (rgb strips, onboard audio, lan, ssds, keyboard, mouse, other usb devices etc)

So let's say the components pull peaks of 650-700w. A platinum efficiency psu will produce these 700 watts with around 92-94% efficiency... let's be conservative and say 92%... that means the 700w were 92% of what pulled from mains... so the psu actually pulls around 750-760 watts and around 50-60 watts are lost as heat in the psu.

When power is lost, the UPS has to take 10.8...13.8v from lead acid battery and uses an inverter to produce 110v AC or 230v AC... that's done with around 80-90% efficiency. So that 750w becomes around 800-850 watts of DC power pulled from battery.

So you can easily do the math ... 850 watts / 10.8..13.8v = 62..78 A of current pulled from a 12v lead acid battery... the current increases from that 60-ish Amps and goes up as the battery voltage goes down.

The cheap 500-750 VA UPSes use a single 7-9Ah lead acid battery... let's say a 1500 VA UPS uses a bigger 20Ah battery, here's a standard UPS battery : https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/zeus-battery-products/PC20-12NB/12570398

Here's datasheet: https://www.zeusbatteryproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/downloads/ZEUS_SPEC_SHEET_PC20-12_RevV2.pdf

you'll see there :

So with such 20Ah battery, pulling 800w or so, you'll get maybe 10 minutes of running on UPS ( looking at around 50A because I assume as soon as the power goes off, you'll minimize the game or have Windows "power management" to throttle the cpu and reduce power consumption ... so you'll have that peak current when gaming for let's say half a minute to 1 minute until you realize the power failed and pause game and then the power consumption should drop to whatever's idle, average power consumption of 200-300w

The above battery charges at up to 6A but it's not a good idea to use such high current, a ups most likely charges at around 2-3A ... you'd be looking at around 8..10h to charge this battery when fully discharged. Says at the top in datasheet.

So the reason I suggested an UPS that uses two batteries, is because most likely such UPS will have two 9Ah..12Ah standard mass produced batteries, easy to replace when dying, and if the power fails when you're gaming and your PC pulls a lot, the two batteries share the load, so each battery sees half the current, or only around 20-30A instead of one battery being abused with a sudden 800w pull (around 60A)

Even better choice would be one of those rackable UPSes which use up to 4 lead acid batteries as they're designed to work either from datacenter 48v DC or from mains.

You can find refurbished / used ones with or without batteries for cheap, like 100-300$

Here's an example : https://www.apc.com/shop/my/en/products/APC-Smart-UPS-C-1500VA-LCD-RM-2U-230V/P-SMC1500I-2U

$139 without batteries : https://www.ebay.com/itm/APC-UPS-SMC1500-2U-1500VA-LCD-Smart-Uninterruptible-Power-Supply-No-Batteries/254755515197

$280 WITH new batteries (184 sold, 8 still available, looks like someone cleared a datacenter or something) : https://www.ebay.com/itm/APC-SMT1500RM2U-Smart-UPS-1500VA-RM-2U-LCD-New-Batteries-1Yr-Wrnty-FreeShip/113361095725

$299 WITH new batteries (130+ sold, >10 available) : https://www.ebay.com/itm/APC-SMT1500RM2U-Smart-UPS-Power-Backup-LCD-1500VA-1000W-120V-Rackmount-New-Batt/223987326330

BenOver · October 22, 2020

15 hours ago, mariushm said:

Just in case it's not clear or obvious... the UPS rating in VA is NOT the same thing as the maximum power it can supply.

A 1000 VA UPS can not output 1000 watts continuously, or is not supposed to - the internals may be oversized, or if you're lucky they use the same components as bigger models and just label it with a lower rating.

That's why you'll see some UPS models say stuff like 1500 VA true sine power output max 900 watts or something like that.

You're looking at peaks of 320 watts for the 3080 without overclocking, let's say it peaks at 350 watts when overclocked.

A processor like the one mentioned will peak at around 150-200 watts, if you overclock it heavily it may go to around 250 watts.

You're looking at around 20 watts for the fans and water cooling and maybe 20-40 watts in 3.3v and 5v for everything else in your computer (rgb strips, onboard audio, lan, ssds, keyboard, mouse, other usb devices etc)

So let's say the components pull peaks of 650-700w. A platinum efficiency psu will produce these 700 watts with around 92-94% efficiency... let's be conservative and say 92%... that means the 700w were 92% of what pulled from mains... so the psu actually pulls around 750-760 watts and around 50-60 watts are lost as heat in the psu.

When power is lost, the UPS has to take 10.8...13.8v from lead acid battery and uses an inverter to produce 110v AC or 230v AC... that's done with around 80-90% efficiency. So that 750w becomes around 800-850 watts of DC power pulled from battery.

So you can easily do the math ... 850 watts / 10.8..13.8v = 62..78 A of current pulled from a 12v lead acid battery... the current increases from that 60-ish Amps and goes up as the battery voltage goes down.

The cheap 500-750 VA UPSes use a single 7-9Ah lead acid battery... let's say a 1500 VA UPS uses a bigger 20Ah battery, here's a standard UPS battery : https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/zeus-battery-products/PC20-12NB/12570398

Here's datasheet: https://www.zeusbatteryproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/downloads/ZEUS_SPEC_SHEET_PC20-12_RevV2.pdf

you'll see there :

So with such 20Ah battery, pulling 800w or so, you'll get maybe 10 minutes of running on UPS ( looking at around 50A because I assume as soon as the power goes off, you'll minimize the game or have Windows "power management" to throttle the cpu and reduce power consumption ... so you'll have that peak current when gaming for let's say half a minute to 1 minute until you realize the power failed and pause game and then the power consumption should drop to whatever's idle, average power consumption of 200-300w

The above battery charges at up to 6A but it's not a good idea to use such high current, a ups most likely charges at around 2-3A ... you'd be looking at around 8..10h to charge this battery when fully discharged. Says at the top in datasheet.

So the reason I suggested an UPS that uses two batteries, is because most likely such UPS will have two 9Ah..12Ah standard mass produced batteries, easy to replace when dying, and if the power fails when you're gaming and your PC pulls a lot, the two batteries share the load, so each battery sees half the current, or only around 20-30A instead of one battery being abused with a sudden 800w pull (around 60A)

Even better choice would be one of those rackable UPSes which use up to 4 lead acid batteries as they're designed to work either from datacenter 48v DC or from mains.

You can find refurbished / used ones with or without batteries for cheap, like 100-300$

Here's an example : https://www.apc.com/shop/my/en/products/APC-Smart-UPS-C-1500VA-LCD-RM-2U-230V/P-SMC1500I-2U

$139 without batteries : https://www.ebay.com/itm/APC-UPS-SMC1500-2U-1500VA-LCD-Smart-Uninterruptible-Power-Supply-No-Batteries/254755515197

$280 WITH new batteries (184 sold, 8 still available, looks like someone cleared a datacenter or something) : https://www.ebay.com/itm/APC-SMT1500RM2U-Smart-UPS-1500VA-RM-2U-LCD-New-Batteries-1Yr-Wrnty-FreeShip/113361095725

$299 WITH new batteries (130+ sold, >10 available) : https://www.ebay.com/itm/APC-SMT1500RM2U-Smart-UPS-Power-Backup-LCD-1500VA-1000W-120V-Rackmount-New-Batt/223987326330

I i i do not know how to react to this Like this looks like an article good job my dude this did really help hopefully my house will get fixed in the next 3 years or something but that did help even tho i didn't understand half of it

BenOver · October 22, 2020

18 hours ago, cheesytacopastaman said:

No, it won't. Not only is it probably not gonna be worth it to overclock, but even if you did, you'd still probably pull no more than 650 watts, 700 peak, from the wall. Not overclocked/factory OC for the GPU which will use like at least 100w less and you'll notice literally almost no difference. You don't need a 1000w UPS.

I know, I like big numbers.

and btw if you're asking why I even have a 1000w platinum psu, I found it at half the price it regularly goes for brand new from a store full warranty