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Should I Switch to Liquid or Not?

Hello guys! So before I made a thread if I should install an exhaust fan on the top of my case and one member here said yes. 

I bought 1 fan and I still havent installed it yet (cos of delivery) But I'm now thinking if I should just switch to liquid cooling? 

My case doesnt have good airflow I think because of the space for the intake fan infront but It's kind of a hassle if I'm gonna change my whole case.

Reason why I'm thinking of switching to liquid cooling is I saw a video stated that in a tropical country and a case that doesnt have a good airflow, liquid cooling is better (not sure if its true.) but since I'm living the Philippines

Maybe its true? 

I'm just scared that everytime I play warzone, my CPU temp reaches up to 76-80c underclocked (1.231 @ 4200mhz) and also my GPU is underclocked (.975 @ 2000mhz) 

I just want to lessen the temp of my CPU tho.. 

Is switching to liquid really the best option? If yes, can you recommend some cheap liquid cooling + thermal paste?

 

Current specs: (Bought last May 2020)

MSI MPG X570 Gaming Plus

Ryzen 7 3700X 

MSI RTX 2080 Super Gaming Trio X

G.Skill Ripjaws V 3200mhz

Seasonic Focus GX 750w

FSP CMT340

Be Quiet Dark Rock Pro 4

 

yngGt98.jpg

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PC: Motherboard - MSI MPG X570 Gaming Plus | CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X | GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Super Trio | RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16GB (2x8) 

PSU: Seasonic Focus 750W Gold Modular | Cooler: be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 | Storage: Adata XPG SX6000 1TB m.2 | Case: FSP CMT340

 

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How many case fans do you have? The Dark Rock Pro is already a very good air cooler. But it obviously can't do miracles if there just is not enough cool air coming into the case. I only see one case fan on the back. Are there more in the front? Even though the front is terribly restrictive some airflow will improve things potentially. That should be your first step. If that doesn't work then indeed you will probably not get around  a better cooler and that means a larger AiO (280-360), since 240 AiOs usually do not significantly outperform top of the line air coolers. If you go for an AiO, mount it at the top since it is the best ventilated side of your case as it seems.

 

Temps in the 70s are not great but okay though. 

Use the quote function when answering! Mark people directly if you want an answer from them!

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Since it looks like the top is open mounting a intake fan there in front of the cpu cooler may really help. Watercooling is not better than air cooling. They both will do the same thing but use different ways to transfer heat. Watercoolers use a liquid and aircoolers use heatpipes (usually). Your current cooler is already better or as good as any 240mm aio on the market.

 

Also if you were swapping the cooler then chances are you'll have to take the board out anyways. Really I would recommend you get a cheap airflow focused case and maybe a cheap 5pack of acrtic fans to fix the issue instead of trying to use a stopgap solution.

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36 minutes ago, Zektbach said:

cheap liquid cooling

cheap liquid cooling won't be better than your current high end air cooler.

liquid cooling is only better when you go for 280mm or 360mm coolers, which are quite expensive.

70-80C is fine, 90 is where I would get worried. i would leave the cpu on auto rather than a fixed voltage and clock.

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7 minutes ago, bowrilla said:

How many case fans do you have? The Dark Rock Pro is already a very good air cooler. But it obviously can't do miracles if there just is not enough cool air coming into the case. I only see one case fan on the back. Are there more in the front? Even though the front is terribly restrictive some airflow will improve things potentially. That should be your first step. If that doesn't work then indeed you will probably not get around  a better cooler and that means a larger AiO (280-360), since 240 AiOs usually do not significantly outperform top of the line air coolers. If you go for an AiO, mount it at the top since it is the best ventilated side of your case as it seems.

 

Temps in the 70s are not great but okay though. 

I have 3 infront (intake), 1 exhaust at the back. When the side panel is attached (tempered glass) i usually get around 75-80c but when I remove it (during my game) I can feel that it feels like oven inside lol. I was also thinking if I should just buy a longer screw to extend the space for intake or not.

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PSU: Seasonic Focus 750W Gold Modular | Cooler: be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 | Storage: Adata XPG SX6000 1TB m.2 | Case: FSP CMT340

 

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Tbh getting a decent new case is cheaper than going with an AiO and will also get you a better temp reduction. For example a Phanteks P300A.

If someone did not use reason to reach their conclusion in the first place, you cannot use reason to convince them otherwise.

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21 minutes ago, boggy77 said:

cheap liquid cooling won't be better than your current high end air cooler.

liquid cooling is only better when you go for 280mm or 360mm coolers, which are quite expensive.

70-80C is fine, 90 is where I would get worried. i would leave the cpu on auto rather than a fixed voltage and clock.

I disagree. I have a 5960x. I have a Noctua NH-D15. I have a Corsair H100i V1. The Corsair is better. 

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3 minutes ago, bomerr said:

I disagree. I have a 5960x. I have a Noctua NH-D15. I have a Corsair H100i V1. The Corsair is better. 

By how much? In what conditions? In what case? What fan configuration? At what noise levels?

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27 minutes ago, Stahlmann said:

Tbh getting a decent new case is cheaper than going with an AiO and will also get you a better temp reduction. For example a Phanteks P300A.

This is very much true but right now in the Philippines almost all cases are out of stock because of hoarding so its kinda hard to look for good case. 

I'm eyeing for: + Grizzly Kyronaut

COOLER MASTER MASTERLIQUID ML360L ARGB V2 

ID COOLING FROSTFLOW X 360

 

 

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PSU: Seasonic Focus 750W Gold Modular | Cooler: be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 | Storage: Adata XPG SX6000 1TB m.2 | Case: FSP CMT340

 

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20 minutes ago, Zektbach said:

ID COOLING FROSTFLOW X 360

This one is pretty good. GamersNexus had a review of the 240mm version afaik. You can look it up.

If someone did not use reason to reach their conclusion in the first place, you cannot use reason to convince them otherwise.

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2 hours ago, boggy77 said:

By how much? In what conditions? In what case? What fan configuration? At what noise levels?

prime95, max fan settings. enough that i could overclock higher. noctua was severly limiting me. I'm pushing the h100i to the max too. I need a better cooling solution. Point is that air cooling is fine if you're in the right climate and/or cpu below 150W but water-cooling is definitely better, even AIO. 

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7 hours ago, boggy77 said:

cheap liquid cooling won't be better than your current high end air cooler.

liquid cooling is only better when you go for 280mm or 360mm coolers, which are quite expensive.

70-80C is fine, 90 is where I would get worried. i would leave the cpu on auto rather than a fixed voltage and clock.

Sorry I missed this post.

 

Regards to auto, my temp spikes up to 80-85 when using auto. That’s why I kinda oc’ed it to 1.231 @ 4200mhz. 

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PC: Motherboard - MSI MPG X570 Gaming Plus | CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X | GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Super Trio | RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16GB (2x8) 

PSU: Seasonic Focus 750W Gold Modular | Cooler: be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 | Storage: Adata XPG SX6000 1TB m.2 | Case: FSP CMT340

 

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6 minutes ago, Zektbach said:

Sorry I missed this post.

 

Regards to auto, my temp spikes up to 80-85 when using auto. That’s why I kinda oc’ed it to 1.231 @ 4200mhz. 

80-85 is fine under intense loads.

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59 minutes ago, boggy77 said:

80-85 is fine under intense loads.

I usually just play warzone tho.. around 2-3 hours non stop :/

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PC: Motherboard - MSI MPG X570 Gaming Plus | CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X | GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Super Trio | RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16GB (2x8) 

PSU: Seasonic Focus 750W Gold Modular | Cooler: be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 | Storage: Adata XPG SX6000 1TB m.2 | Case: FSP CMT340

 

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6 minutes ago, Zektbach said:

I usually just play warzone tho.. around 2-3 hours non stop :/

if it doesn't go above 90 for extended 2-3 hour sessions, you don't need to worry

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**UPDATE**
 

I managed to solve the issue for the temp without buying liquid cooling or another case. I removed the front panel of the case (tempered glass) and I think I will just put some magnetic dust filter on it. 
 

I’m thinking of buying 1 single fan for exhaust on the top of the case, any recommendations without using any controller? (Fan that can be directly plug in to motherboard)

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PC: Motherboard - MSI MPG X570 Gaming Plus | CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X | GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Super Trio | RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16GB (2x8) 

PSU: Seasonic Focus 750W Gold Modular | Cooler: be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 | Storage: Adata XPG SX6000 1TB m.2 | Case: FSP CMT340

 

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20 hours ago, Zektbach said:

in a tropical country and a case that doesnt have a good airflow, liquid cooling is better (not sure if its true.) but since I'm living the Philippines

There is no connection between humidity/weather and the performance of liquid coolers (compared to air coolers) at all.

20 hours ago, Zektbach said:

I'm just scared that everytime I play warzone, my CPU temp reaches up to 76-80c underclocked

These temperatures are perfectly safe. Anything below 95C is safe honestly. It's just that people like to keep their CPUs and GPUs below that because sometimes they overclock better with lower temps, and they last longer. Even then 80C is perfectly reasonable. Your temps are normal, I wouldn't even call them too high.

 

20 hours ago, Zektbach said:

My case doesnt have good airflow I think because of the space for the intake fan infront but It's kind of a hassle if I'm gonna change my whole case.

I see that your front panel is EXTREMELY restricted. A liquid cooler is not going to fix this. You have a couple options. You can change your case, or remove the front panel, or remove the side panel. Obviously removing them means dust will come in, but it's a tradeoff.

 

Changing your case might take some assembly time, but so will installing a liquid cooler and the case is going to be quite a bit cheaper.

We have a NEW and GLORIOUSER-ER-ER PSU Tier List Now. (dammit @LukeSavenije stop coming up with new ones)

You can check out the old one that gave joy to so many across the land here

 

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17 minutes ago, Zektbach said:

I removed the front panel of the case (tempered glass) and I think I will just put some magnetic dust filter on it. 

Nice! This would work perfectly.

 

17 minutes ago, Zektbach said:

I’m thinking of buying 1 single fan for exhaust on the top of the case, any recommendations without using any controller? (Fan that can be directly plug in to motherboard)

Let's see what you can get in the Philippines.

 

Can you get the Arctic Cooling P12 PWM? It's one of the best price/performance fans out there, and I think it's very nice looking.

 

https://www.arctic.ac/en/P12-PWM/ACFAN00119A

We have a NEW and GLORIOUSER-ER-ER PSU Tier List Now. (dammit @LukeSavenije stop coming up with new ones)

You can check out the old one that gave joy to so many across the land here

 

Computer having a hard time powering on? Troubleshoot it with this guide. (Currently looking for suggestions to update it into the context of <current year> and make it its own thread)

Computer Specs:

Spoiler

Mathresolvermajig: Intel Xeon E3 1240 (Sandy Bridge i7 equivalent)

Chillinmachine: Noctua NH-C14S
Framepainting-inator: EVGA GTX 1080 Ti SC2 Hybrid

Attachcorethingy: Gigabyte H61M-S2V-B3

Infoholdstick: Corsair 2x4GB DDR3 1333

Computerarmor: Silverstone RL06 "Lookalike"

Rememberdoogle: 1TB HDD + 120GB TR150 + 240 SSD Plus + 1TB MX500

AdditionalPylons: Phanteks AMP! 550W (based on Seasonic GX-550)

Letterpad: Rosewill Apollo 9100 (Cherry MX Red)

Buttonrodent: Razer Viper Mini + Huion H430P drawing Tablet

Auralnterface: Sennheiser HD 6xx

Liquidrectangles: LG 27UK850-W 4K HDR

 

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32 minutes ago, Energycore said:

Nice! This would work perfectly.

 

Let's see what you can get in the Philippines.

 

Can you get the Arctic Cooling P12 PWM? It's one of the best price/performance fans out there, and I think it's very nice looking.

 

https://www.arctic.ac/en/P12-PWM/ACFAN00119A

Yeah removing the front panel improved my temp ALOT like seriously lol. I tried looking for Arctic here but it's not available, what I mean is no shop sells arctic here. Idk why

 

Some available are:

Deep Cool XFAN

Deep Cool Ice Blade

ID COOLING WF

 

Should I choose 140>120mm? 

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PC: Motherboard - MSI MPG X570 Gaming Plus | CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X | GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Super Trio | RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16GB (2x8) 

PSU: Seasonic Focus 750W Gold Modular | Cooler: be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 | Storage: Adata XPG SX6000 1TB m.2 | Case: FSP CMT340

 

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29 minutes ago, Zektbach said:

Yeah removing the front panel improved my temp ALOT like seriously lol. I tried looking for Arctic here but it's not available, what I mean is no shop sells arctic here. Idk why

 

Some available are:

Deep Cool XFAN

Deep Cool Ice Blade

ID COOLING WF

 

Should I choose 140>120mm? 

Definitely go 140mm if able.

 

Out of the three fans you mentioned the ID-Cooling looks the best built, I'd probably choose that if there were no other options. http://www.idcooling.com/Product/detail/id/114/name/WF-14025

We have a NEW and GLORIOUSER-ER-ER PSU Tier List Now. (dammit @LukeSavenije stop coming up with new ones)

You can check out the old one that gave joy to so many across the land here

 

Computer having a hard time powering on? Troubleshoot it with this guide. (Currently looking for suggestions to update it into the context of <current year> and make it its own thread)

Computer Specs:

Spoiler

Mathresolvermajig: Intel Xeon E3 1240 (Sandy Bridge i7 equivalent)

Chillinmachine: Noctua NH-C14S
Framepainting-inator: EVGA GTX 1080 Ti SC2 Hybrid

Attachcorethingy: Gigabyte H61M-S2V-B3

Infoholdstick: Corsair 2x4GB DDR3 1333

Computerarmor: Silverstone RL06 "Lookalike"

Rememberdoogle: 1TB HDD + 120GB TR150 + 240 SSD Plus + 1TB MX500

AdditionalPylons: Phanteks AMP! 550W (based on Seasonic GX-550)

Letterpad: Rosewill Apollo 9100 (Cherry MX Red)

Buttonrodent: Razer Viper Mini + Huion H430P drawing Tablet

Auralnterface: Sennheiser HD 6xx

Liquidrectangles: LG 27UK850-W 4K HDR

 

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37 minutes ago, Energycore said:

Definitely go 140mm if able.

 

Out of the three fans you mentioned the ID-Cooling looks the best built, I'd probably choose that if there were no other options. http://www.idcooling.com/Product/detail/id/114/name/WF-14025

Thank you so much for your help! 

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PC: Motherboard - MSI MPG X570 Gaming Plus | CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X | GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Super Trio | RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16GB (2x8) 

PSU: Seasonic Focus 750W Gold Modular | Cooler: be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 | Storage: Adata XPG SX6000 1TB m.2 | Case: FSP CMT340

 

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6 hours ago, Energycore said:

Definitely go 140mm if able.

 

Out of the three fans you mentioned the ID-Cooling looks the best built, I'd probably choose that if there were no other options. http://www.idcooling.com/Product/detail/id/114/name/WF-14025

Just to update, I ordered Arctic P14 PWM not sure if that's better than P12.

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PC: Motherboard - MSI MPG X570 Gaming Plus | CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X | GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Super Trio | RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16GB (2x8) 

PSU: Seasonic Focus 750W Gold Modular | Cooler: be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 | Storage: Adata XPG SX6000 1TB m.2 | Case: FSP CMT340

 

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