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Should i OC my CPU? or lose performance?

Alright so long story short a long time ago i used to have problems with my pc's ventilation so i disabled Core Performance Boost.After i got a new case and an NZXT Kraken x53 i completely forgot about Core Performance Boost, so that meaning that i used my pc for 1 month with my CPU stuck at only 3.79 ghz max speed(i have a Ryzen 3600X).Now today i realized that "Hey i forgot to turn on Core Performance Boost" So i did my thing i went in bios changed it and came back on desktop.Now everything was ok at first my speed of my CPU was back at 4.2ghz but as soon as i checked ryzen master i saw 1.45V PEAK VOLTAGE.That's the moment that i realized my CPU was idling AND full loading back when i had it enabled at around 1.4-1.45V.Now im not that educated on this topic BUT I SURE KNOW THAT 1.45V IS NOT THAT GOOD AND CAN DO PERMANENT DAMAGE TO A CPU.So i went and did a firestrike stress test and i was like "Sure it can't be that bad right?" Oh i was wrong, really wrong image.thumb.png.46bb7e48c79ba73885c5330123133018.png WTF ARE THESE CPU TEMPS ( i mean they were battling between 50c-60c so it's not that bad BUT STILL) WHY ARE THEY SPIKING LIKE THIS.Im pretty sure someone told me cause of the voltage not being well managed this happens or something like that.So i was done and i just disabled Core Performane Boost.So what do you guys think i should do? Enable it again/Keep it disabled/Or try to OC my CPU to 4/4.1 ghz with a stable Voltage

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1.45V at idle is not going to harm anything. What's your Vcore under load?

 

Use HWiNFO64 or Ryzen Master to check temperatures, not NZXT CAM or whatever.

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Just now, Mateyyy said:

1.45V at idle is not going to harm anything. What's your Vcore under load?

 

Use HWiNFO64 or Ryzen Master to check temperatures, not NZXT CAM or whatever.

It's the same.It doesn't go higher than 1.45v usually it's around 1.4-1.41 but sometimes it just spikes up to 1.45

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First off, go ahead and clear CMOS. This can solve a lot of strange BIOS issues.

 

Also it's completely normal for Ryzen to have 1.4V to even 1.5V on idle. This will get lower when under load. My 3700X is at 1.5V at idle and then stays at ~1.1V when under full load.

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Current Specs:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X @4.7GHz all-core OC (1.3125V) - Motherboard: Gigabyte B550 Aorus Pro V1 - GPU: PNY RTX 3080 XLR8 Epic-X @2.1GHz Core / 10GHz VRAM - RAM: 16 GB Crucial Ballistix @3600Mhz cl14 (1.45V) - PSU: Corsair RMx 850W - Storage: 500 GB Corsair MP600 (System) + 2 TB Sabrent Rocket Q (Storage) - Cooling: EK custom loop + Alphacool GPU Block - Case: CoolerMaster H500 - Fans: Noctua NF-F12 chromax - AMP/DAC: Asus Xonar Essence STX II - Fan Controller: Corsair Commander Pro - OS: Windows 10 Pro - Monitors: 2x LG 27GN850-B HDR-Gaming-TV: LG C9 OLED 55" - Mouse: Logitech G Pro wireless + Powerplay - Keyboard: Logitech G910 Orion Spectrum, Corsair K63 Wireless + Lapboard - Headphones: Beyerdynamic DT990 Edition 600 Ohm - Microphone: Antlion ModMic

 

Temperatures: (Furmark CPU-Burner and GPU-Burner running at the same time. Measured after water temperature hits equilibrium.)

CPU: 70°C

GPU: 52°C

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Just now, probablydumb said:

It's the same.It doesn't go higher than 1.45v usually it's around 1.4-1.41 but sometimes it just spikes up to 1.45

Just now, Stahlmann said:

First off, go ahead and clear CMOS. This can solve a lot of strange BIOS issues.

 

PSU Tier List          AMD Motherboard Tier List          SSD Tier List          How to choose a Monitor          My Samsung Odyssey G7 Review

 

Current Specs:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X @4.7GHz all-core OC (1.3125V) - Motherboard: Gigabyte B550 Aorus Pro V1 - GPU: PNY RTX 3080 XLR8 Epic-X @2.1GHz Core / 10GHz VRAM - RAM: 16 GB Crucial Ballistix @3600Mhz cl14 (1.45V) - PSU: Corsair RMx 850W - Storage: 500 GB Corsair MP600 (System) + 2 TB Sabrent Rocket Q (Storage) - Cooling: EK custom loop + Alphacool GPU Block - Case: CoolerMaster H500 - Fans: Noctua NF-F12 chromax - AMP/DAC: Asus Xonar Essence STX II - Fan Controller: Corsair Commander Pro - OS: Windows 10 Pro - Monitors: 2x LG 27GN850-B HDR-Gaming-TV: LG C9 OLED 55" - Mouse: Logitech G Pro wireless + Powerplay - Keyboard: Logitech G910 Orion Spectrum, Corsair K63 Wireless + Lapboard - Headphones: Beyerdynamic DT990 Edition 600 Ohm - Microphone: Antlion ModMic

 

Temperatures: (Furmark CPU-Burner and GPU-Burner running at the same time. Measured after water temperature hits equilibrium.)

CPU: 70°C

GPU: 52°C

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Just now, probablydumb said:

It's the same.It doesn't go higher than 1.45v usually it's around 1.4-1.41 but sometimes it just spikes up to 1.45

Under load? What software are you checking that with?

 

What motherboard are you using? Have you updated your BIOS?

Desktop: Intel Core i9-9900K | be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 | ASUS Strix Z390-F | G.Skill Trident Z Neo 2x16GB 3200MHz CL14-14-14-34 | EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER XC Ultra | Corsair RM650x | Fractal Design Define R6

Laptop: 2018 Apple MacBook Pro 13"  --  i5-8259U | 8GB LPDDR3 | 512GB NVMe | macOS Big Sur

Peripherals: Ducky Shine 7 (Cherry MX Brown) | Logitech MX Master 3 & Razer Basilisk X HyperSpeed | Beyerdynamic Custom One Pro Plus | Audio-Technica AT2020USB+

Displays: Alienware AW2521HF & BenQ BL2420PT

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Just now, Mateyyy said:

Under load? What software are you checking that with?

 

What motherboard are you using? Have you updated your BIOS?

Im checking it with Ryzen Master,I don't remember vividly cause it was 2 days ago but i remember it being 1.4v sometimes spiking up to 1.45 but dropping down to 1.4v and when it's idle it's not a constant 1.45v it's 1.3v then suddenly staying at 1.45v for like 3 seconds then dropping back down to 1.3v-1.35v

 

Im using an ASUS TUF B450M-PLUS GAMING and im only 2 bios versions behind

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Also install the latest Chipset drivers and then set the Windows power plan to a Ryzen one.

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Current Specs:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X @4.7GHz all-core OC (1.3125V) - Motherboard: Gigabyte B550 Aorus Pro V1 - GPU: PNY RTX 3080 XLR8 Epic-X @2.1GHz Core / 10GHz VRAM - RAM: 16 GB Crucial Ballistix @3600Mhz cl14 (1.45V) - PSU: Corsair RMx 850W - Storage: 500 GB Corsair MP600 (System) + 2 TB Sabrent Rocket Q (Storage) - Cooling: EK custom loop + Alphacool GPU Block - Case: CoolerMaster H500 - Fans: Noctua NF-F12 chromax - AMP/DAC: Asus Xonar Essence STX II - Fan Controller: Corsair Commander Pro - OS: Windows 10 Pro - Monitors: 2x LG 27GN850-B HDR-Gaming-TV: LG C9 OLED 55" - Mouse: Logitech G Pro wireless + Powerplay - Keyboard: Logitech G910 Orion Spectrum, Corsair K63 Wireless + Lapboard - Headphones: Beyerdynamic DT990 Edition 600 Ohm - Microphone: Antlion ModMic

 

Temperatures: (Furmark CPU-Burner and GPU-Burner running at the same time. Measured after water temperature hits equilibrium.)

CPU: 70°C

GPU: 52°C

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Just now, Stahlmann said:

Also install the latest Chipset drivers and then set the Windows power plan to a Ryzen one.

I actually installed the latest chipset drivers right after that one fire strike stress test and it did make a little bit of an improvement in overall voltage and spikes when it's benchmarking.But i still don't get why i get those dumb temp spikes? Back when i had CPB disabled it was a straight line but know it looks like fucking mount everest and i don't mind that it's spiking but what's surely annoying is that my NZXT Kraken pump is cycling between 50% and 100% pump speed and it sounds terrible.When the pump is at 100% it just sounds like a water hose but obviously quieter,i can hear it pretty well since most of my room is dead quiet and even the smallest of noises you can hear and the fact that my PC is right next to my right ear is not helping

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38 minutes ago, probablydumb said:

BUT I SURE KNOW THAT 1.45V IS NOT THAT GOOD AND CAN DO PERMANENT DAMAGE TO A CPU.

Nope if the temps are fine then its fine. Ryzen runs on a high voltage at stock. I would suggest try to get the CPU to 4.2 GHz with 1.3 or 1.35 volts.

Quote or at me @Smit Devrukhkar for me to see your replies.

 

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16gb ram

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2tb hdd

 

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8 minutes ago, Smit Devrukhkar said:

Nope if the temps are fine then its fine. Ryzen runs on a high voltage at stock. I would suggest try to get the CPU to 4.2 GHz with 1.3 or 1.35 volts.

Similar thing happened with the old APUs (A10-5800K) on some motherboards - defaulted to 1.45v, giving stupid high idle temps. I agree with Smit; change the voltage in BIOS to 1.35v, and you'll be fine. Unlikely to need much, or any, other tweaking. @probablydumb

 

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12 minutes ago, Smit Devrukhkar said:

Nope if the temps are fine then its fine. Ryzen runs on a high voltage at stock. I would suggest try to get the CPU to 4.2 GHz with 1.3 or 1.35 volts.

If i try to change voltages i would probably end up killing my pc in about 2 nanoseconds

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21 minutes ago, probablydumb said:

If i try to change voltages i would probably end up killing my pc in about 2 nanoseconds

You mentioned doing it in your OP...

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24 minutes ago, probablydumb said:

If i try to change voltages i would probably end up killing my pc in about 2 nanoseconds

Lowering your voltages is never going to "break" anything.  It may result in a non-boot or instability if you go too low, but it won't break anything.  Raising your voltage is where you can start going in to dangerous territory depending on what component you're doing it to.

From what I'm seeing from a quick search, most people are able to hit 4.2-4.3GHz on your model of CPU with around 1.35V.  I would try that as your CPU voltage setting, and see if it tests stable.  That would be reducing your voltage from what I've read of how your current stuff is reading out.

 

You definitely should update to the most current BIOS for your motherboard, as that may help with these issues.  Often BIOS updates improve default stability settings, as well compatibility with CPUs & RAM.  It could well be the BIOS your on now is simply setting the default voltage on your chip wrong because it doesn't know any better, and it was fixed in an update.

Most motherboards have built in BIOS updaters in the BIOS now, if yours doesn't have that, you should be able to look up how to do it on YouTube or Google.

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29 minutes ago, probablydumb said:

If i try to change voltages i would probably end up killing my pc in about 2 nanoseconds

I mean as long as you don't push like 1.7volts to your cpu your good. You can change it in ryzen master if you are not comfortable with the bios.

Quote or at me @Smit Devrukhkar for me to see your replies.

 

Laptop :

Legion y520

i5 7300hq

1050 4gb oc

16gb ram

256 gb ssd

2tb hdd

 

Server:

Xeon E3 1245

16gb ram

256 gb ssd

2*2tb hdd

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7 hours ago, HoneyBadger84 said:

 

You definitely should update to the most current BIOS for your motherboard, as that may help with these issues.  Often BIOS updates improve default stability settings, as well compatibility with CPUs & RAM.  It could well be the BIOS your on now is simply setting the default voltage on your chip wrong because it doesn't know any better, and it was fixed in an update.

Most motherboards have built in BIOS updaters in the BIOS now, if yours doesn't have that, you should be able to look up how to do it on YouTube or Google.

Thing is i would update right now to the latest one.But there is one problem.I DON'T HAVE ANY flash drives that i can use

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18 hours ago, probablydumb said:

Thing is i would update right now to the latest one.But there is one problem.I DON'T HAVE ANY flash drives that i can use

Shouldn't need one - doesn't that board have Internet BIOS update available? Alternatively, if it's local disk only, just put the CAP file from the following zip on the root of C drive and flash from that.

Latest BIOS file here: https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM4/TUF_B450M-PLUS_GAMING/TUF-B450M-PLUS-GAMING-ASUS-2202.zip

 

Look for "EZ Flash 2" or "EZ Flash 3" in the UEFI.

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If I were you, I'd try a light OC or undervolt. I have a 3700X, and I hated seeing 1.5V at idle. Manual OC 4.2 GHz 1.275V with LLC3. Drops to approx 1.2V under P95. I was always planning on OC'ing however, and if you aren't comfortable you can also just change the voltage and nothing else

 

 

It's your choice though, try clearing CMOS or updating BIOS and as long as voltage under load is below 1.3V (at least usually), you should be fine

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