Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

whats your pc audio setup?

Some realtek audio, edifier bookshelves and a pair of sen hd280pro. 

 

Back when I still used my personal computer for business i had a range of digidesign or m audio pci cards (yes pci), But that all got sold  

Silent build - You know your pc is too loud when the deaf complain. Windows 98 gaming build, smells like beige

Link to post
Share on other sites
Quote

 

This is my current set up.

Music :

  •    Harmon Kardon 3490 integrated amplifier  2xStereo
  •    Paradigm Studio Monitors (300w Wooden Towers from the 90's)
  •    KEF Q100 Bookshelf
  •   Integrated Soundblaster ZXrI on gigabyte motherboard  (optical cord)

 

Headphones :

  •   Sony MDR-1A

Microphone :

  • Antlion Audio ModMic Uni Attachable

 

Future :

  • SVS SB-1000 12inch subwoofer
Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a pair of elac 6.2b bookshelf speakers pulling triple duty as my computer speakers, stereo and sound system for my bedroom tv. They are being driven by an SMSL AD18. I'm using the AD18's internal dac over usb for the computer and toslink for the tv. My current headphones are a set of hifiman he4xx's but they are getting sidelined when my new set of thx pandas get here in mid november. I also have a set of earfun free earbuds that I mostly use for listening to podcasts and audo books on my phone.

 

elac 6.2b      $300

ad18             $145

he4xx            $160

earfun free    $40~

thx panda      $400

 

The bottom line for me was that I wanted something that could do everything pretty well. Music, gaming, youtube and movie consumption and the 6.2b excel at that. They are detailed and clear with enough base that I don't feel the need for a sub with movies. The ad18 I bought because I wanted something compact that could handle multiple inputs and that wouldn't give off a lot of heat. It does its job reasonably well but I know its not the best amp in terms of accuracy. It will probably get replaced at some point with ether a used receiver or hopefully a better class d desktop amp. The he4xx's will always be a special purchase for me because they were the first piece of really good audio gear I experienced and totally blew my fucking mind at the time. I kinda love the earfuns. The are only "listenable" for music imo but they are great for podcasts with little in the way of noise which is not the case with other cheap ear buds I have tried. I bought them because I tend to lose or break my earbuds and don't want an expensive set I have to worry about. I bought the pandas because I wasn't using the he4xx's as much as I used to because the cord was annoying me more then it used before I got the earfuns and got used to bluetooth. I also end up buying a phone without a 3.5mm jack.... Overall I'm pretty happy with everything even the ad18 and very happy with the elacs.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheap mini amplifier (2x50W + 100W) and 2x Audio Pro Cinema C1

 

Daytonaudio_F.thumb.JPG.71a50396eb03bf7d950e335e4a8e749b.JPGDaytonaudio_H.thumb.JPG.808351fa382a8667cc0dd4208753f47f.JPGAudio_Pro_Cinema_C1_-_A.thumb.JPG.5d8bb8f5e09fe947967013a98a92c85a.JPGAudio_Pro_Cinema_C1_-_B.thumb.JPG.2accc377f843f6c313de8eebcd3e453f.JPG

it's fine.....it's nice......i like it

Link to post
Share on other sites

WARNING: Huge bang for the buck, but still not particularly cheap, option ahead.

 

While my full setup is considerably more complicated, my PC audio setup could be boiled down to 2 components: interface and speakers.

If you want some baller audio that will get you super close to reference-quality without having to spend five digits, and you don't need a ton of extra audio I/O, something like this setup can get you pretty decent results.

1. The Interface: Focusrite Scarlett Solo 3rd gen. Will get you a single XLR mic input with a decent preamp, headphone out, and left/right outs for your ref. monitors. Alternatively, if you sit close enough to warrant smaller speakers and a separate subwoofer, 
2. The speakers. This part really depends on where you're sitting in relation to your speakers (sound waves need a bit of travel distance, my friend). If you're sitting about 48+ inches away from your speakers, look at getting a pair of these HS8s. If you sit about 40 inches away, a pair of these HS7s can do you well. If you're closer than 40", then these HS5s should be plenty for you, but you might want to consider pairing with the HS8S sub to fill in the frequency spectrum to bridge that cutoff from 45Hz down to about 20Hz. 

If you do get the HS5s plus sub setup (honestly would recommend, almost wish I had gone with HS7s and sub for my own setup instead of HS8s... bigger speakers don't always mean better!), you'll need TRS to XLR adapters to run from your interface to the sub, and then XLRs from the sub to the speakers, and do a little research on where would be optimal to set the crossover and balance the volume so it's not overpowering.

Source: am audio engineer. 

In this price range, these are the best speakers you'll find. Now if you go with one of the setups I suggested here want that extra special sauce that'll give you some real nice flat calibration for a fixed listening point (hear things in a way that brings you as close to being in the studio as you can get), this is a tool that I use personally with my HS8s that, honestly, *chef kiss*. 

Alternatively, if speakers are out of the question for you, Sonarworks Headphone Edition can make a pair of Audio Technica ATH-M50x headphones sound pretty rock solid as well.

 

 


C31DC6D8-763F-4639-8E81-DD2ADD0481BA.thumb.jpeg.370c3ef81bffebb2949ace8440d094f8.jpeg
 

 

If what I'm posting has already been posted, I'm sorry.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've come a long way since I made an audio lab out of my room and created my own version of Atmos. It started out really, I mean really ghetto, but it was worth it at the end:

 

2013 - Genius SW-G 2.1 1250 ($30)

2014 - Same amp with used Sony SS-A307 speakers (total cost raised to $50)

2015 - 2 additional SW-G amps with a used Dimarson setup for surrounds and overheads - this is where the development for my upmixer started (t.c. at $100)

2016 - Fronts were replaced with Klipsch R-15Ms, still no center, just a 4.0.2 ($250)

2017 - Another SW-G amp, a Klipsch R-25C, another pair of R-15Ms as front height, and an R-10SWi subwoofer, all on sale ($700)

2018 - Got a gift of a JBL 8340A pair, so a 5.1.2 was possible throwing out the Dimarsons. 2 of them stayed bolted to the ceiling for later use. I sold the R-10SWi, and got an RW-12d for the same price. (no change in cost)

2019 - I accidentally found a directory listing on Yorkville's service website on Google, which contained schematics for actual IMAX speakers. So I built a new subwoofer based on that, which is basically unrivaled at any price point. I asked them if this was intentional or not, and they took it down, so don't ask for a link. (cost bumped to $1700, value raised to the sky)

2020 - The annoyingly bad R-25C was replaced to another used 8340A, and I got a Crown XLS-202 for the fronts ($2000)

 

After only spending $2000, I've got a total system value of about $10000, and with a custom built calibrator, it managed to drastically surpass $500k home theaters.

The system as of now:

JBL 8340A screens and Klipsch R-15M surrounds as a 5.1.2 base and 2 Dimarsons used as sound guides for a virtual 5.1.4

DIY subwoofers, one main and 3 small room correction boxes, all of them custom calibrated for the room

Crown XLS-202, BASH, and Genius amplifiers

ASUS Xonar DX sound card

Equalizer APO with Cavern QuickEQ measurements

 

Some numbers of how well this turned out:

- Perfectly flat 20-20000 Hz response at reference cinema levels (105 dB main peak, 115 dB LFE peak) with only +/-0.05 dB error in the RLP

- No phase changes in software, all channels could be perfectly aligned with 1 sample precision

- Nearly perfect 20-120 Hz response for the LFE at any seat, with only +/-1 dB error and chest slams at any position, even while standing

- Just 57 ms of total LFE decay time

- RT60 is always below 250 ms without any acoustic treatment

- The entire system is only capable of 740 Watts, but only two scenes were able to clip it at reference levels, both of them hit the room correction subs

- Over 200 hours spent calibrating every single small issue

Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, VoidX said:

After only spending $2000, I've got a total system value of about $10000, and with a custom built calibrator, it managed to drastically surpass $500k home theaters.

 

A HT like yours that is DSP corrected will surpass anything that isn't calibrated/DSP'd correctly.

 

What size driver does that IMAX subwoofer use? My curiosity is wondering if its the plans for a large or small IMAX theatre. Nearly every IMAX theatre has a much different speaker setup to every other IMAX cinema.

If you have any questions about ultra high end audio (Or any speakers or audio gear!), don't be afraid to shoot me a message, or mention me.

 

Spent over 960k on audio gear, still trying to increase sound quality.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/2/2020 at 4:45 PM, dfsgsfa said:

what is your bottom line?

do you like your regret your setup?

how much budget would you invest in ?

My setup is my DT 990 pro 250ohm with a straight cable and dekoni elite velour pads. Paired with my Sound Blaster AE-9 and a T.bone SC400 mic.

1. Great soundstage with great imaging for gaming and music, good amp/DAC. Also no RGB gaming headsets!!!

2. I like my setup. I want to explore more in the future.

3. Max 250 dollars per product

PM or DM me if you have any questions about audio or about your PC.

My PC specs & audio gear

CPU > Intel core i7 9700k, GPU > RTX 2070 8gb, RAM > Corsair Vengance 2x8gb 3000mhz, Motherboard > Z390 Gigabyte Aorus Pro Wifi, Storage > 1TB HDD & 2pcs of 500gb M2 SSDs, Cooling > H100I Corsair Platinum, PSU > Corsair RM750X V2

🎧Current Audio Setup For Gaming/Music🎧

Philips Fidelio X2HR as daily driver

Soundblaster AE-9 Soundcard

The T.bone SC400 XLR mic

Other peripherals

Keyboard > Razer Chroma v2 Orange Switches

Mouse > Cooler Master MM711, had a G502 HERO but was too heavy for my liking.

VR > Valve index kit

Why spend thousands on peripherals and your PC and forget one of the most important things... Audio.

Read this post if you want a "gaming" headset ;)

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Derkoli said:

 

A HT like yours that is DSP corrected will surpass anything that isn't calibrated/DSP'd correctly.

 

What size driver does that IMAX subwoofer use? My curiosity is wondering if its the plans for a large or small IMAX theatre. Nearly every IMAX theatre has a much different speaker setup to every other IMAX cinema.

Sadly there is no correct DSP other than using a PC as of today. Even high-end processors, like the StormAudio ISP MK2, starting over $20k, can't even supply anything more than a Dirac correction, which is usually off by 10-15 dB at some points. They just don't have the power. A maxed out Audyssey configuration handles 2560 operations per sample per channel, Dirac is speculated to be around 8192 o/s/c, while a PC can easily handle 65536 o/s/c just for a simple crossover (for which I use 48 dB/Hz variants, yes, it's Hz, not octave). This is a must if you want to keep phase distortion to a minimum, and in most cases, using hybrid convolution, it's under one sample. A simple laptop can deal with up to 1 million o/s/c for EQ, and this is the demo I take to premium HTs for jaw-dropping changes in audio quality, sometimes even from as low as a simple one minute auto-calibration, but at very high precision.

 

If this doesn't provide the awaited results, there's always room for bruteforcing FFT(DiracDelta(t-T/2))/FFT(room IR). This creates a completely flat frequency and phase response with zero nodes and near-instant decays, but it's really hard to mix correctly even for a single seat (for which I usually use 7 mic positions in this case). The cost is that it brings current high-end CPUs to their limits, and commercial audio processors are far away from this kind of performance, while pro ones are sometimes even further. The only system I've seen come close to PC-calibrated ones was in a room that was padded into oblivion, with an average RT60 below 50 ms. That just blew away every measurement I've ever had. That system's subs were still inaudible at over 20 dB addition to the cinema standard, while you could feel actual shockwaves on your chest. It makes an actual IMAX's slams just a small breeze. This was nearly purely done in acoustic treatment, but for that room (2400 cubic meters), the price must have been stellar, based on their yearly operation cost of over $6 million.

 

So why is there no development on PC EQs and why does anyone barely build a HT based on PC? There's no support for modern formats like Atmos, and based on many licences, there won't be, unless the guys working on libavcodec find a way to legally reverse engineer these. The only one I could play back in true spatial sound on the PC was Auro, and nobody is using Auro. You have to downmix it, as there's 8 channels of commonly available output channels, 16 at most in some very complicated setups. Also, it's possible in an analog way to come close, but for a price that's out of reach for most of us. Lastly, what I was talking about, is a controlled scientific experiment. There is no plug'n'play tool, and you can't expect installers to spend hundreds of hours on configuring your setup. Barely any users would do it, even Dolby stops after 3 days for actual cinema calibrations, and with the exception of bass, it sounds just as good.

 

 

 

I found 3 different sub designs, one with a single 18" driver in a single enclosure (this is what one of my friends bought 2 of from eBay, and even this one performs really good), one with 4x 12" drivers in a single enclosure (this is the one I built and what's seen in most online content), and I don't remember the last one. I also don't know how much they use in which of their rooms, but judging from the 1200W peak output of mine, it must be a lot.

Link to post
Share on other sites

It's actually simple yet at least I can hear the frequencies good enough.

 

I'm using an old PC speaker amplifier-subwoofer (Simbadda CST 6000-ish I forgot the exact model), and using it to drive a pair of local-brand Polytron home-theater speakers (which actually sounds kinda good in my opinion) and a big-ass subwoofer from a local brand Advante, all of which I found just laying around and "Well, let's just fix 'em".

 

Yes, I know the amplifier would be really overwhelmed by the setup, but that's how I run my music everyday without yet spending any money. Probably a good idea for me to get a decent 2 channel + 1 subwoofer amplifier, tho, as the amp I'm using are already struggling to keep the power on the speakers and it's starting to hurting itself.

 

For earphone, I'm using a real budget one, Knowledge Zenith KZ-EDR2. It's actually sounds decent enough, better than the more-bassy side of JBL on the price range.

 

I'd like a headset that's good for music but can be functional for gaming session (as using an earphone for gaming is just... Uncomfortable for extended session), somehow. Probably any good products on this? Tell anything you would recommend but pls don't make me broke either.

Humor me, as you should do.

 

Daily drivers:

 

Acer Aspire E5-475G

Intel Core i5-7200U 2.5 GHz (Turbo 3.1 GHz) || NVIDIA GeForce 940MX 2GB

4GB Micron DDR4 + 4GB Team Group DDR4 PC19200

120 GB WD Green M.2 SATA SSD + 480 GB Pioneer APS-SL3N SATA SSD

Windows 10 Single Language x64

 

iPhone 6s

2GB RAM, 64GB Internal Storage 

iOS 14.4

(it ain't much, but this phone's still good enough for my daily use)

 

Xiaomi Redmi Note 8

4GB RAM, 64GB Internal Storage 

64GB SanDisk Ultra (80MB/s Read) External Storage

MIUI 12 Global

Aukey Turbo Charger PA-U28 QC2.0 + Aukey CB-CD4 PVC Type-C Cable

 

LOG-ON 690L Power Bank

10000 mAh, QC3.0/PD input (micro-B + Type-C) and output (Type-A + Type-C) capable

 

Audio

Some random home-theater speakers I took freely from someplace and big-ass bass with old computer speaker amplifier. It sounds good af tho.

dbE DJ100 Headphone

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, dhannemon13 said:

I'd like a headset that's good for music but can be functional for gaming session (as using an earphone for gaming is just... Uncomfortable for extended session), somehow. Probably any good products on this? Tell anything you would recommend but pls don't make me broke either.

If you can afford it, and want a headset with a microphone, then go for a Kingston HyperX Cloud II. They are reskinned from some studio headphones (I forget which ones) which means they sound excellent, especially by gaming headset standards.

 

It you don't want a microphone then there's a wealth of audiophile-type headphone choices which I'm sure someone here more knowledgeable than myself will be happy to enlighten you on.

 

 

____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

 

____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

pythonmegapixel

into tech, public transport and architecture // amateur programmer // youtuber // beginner photographer

Thanks for reading all this by the way!

By the way, my desktop is a docked laptop. Get over it, No seriously, I have an exterrnal monitor, keyboard, mouse, headset, ethernet and cooling fans all connected. Using it feels no different to a desktop, it works for several hours if the power goes out, and disconnecting just a few cables gives me something I can take on the go. There's enough power for all games I play and it even copes with basic (and some not-so-basic) video editing. Give it a go - you might just love it.

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, pythonmegapixel said:

It you don't want a microphone then there's a wealth of audiophile-type headphone choices which I'm sure someone here more knowledgeable than myself will be happy to enlighten you on.

Perhaps I'd consider this and... Cheaper, perhaps. Around $20-$35 or slightly more maybe?

I wouldn't mind if that's a budget one as long as it sounds decent enough lol

Humor me, as you should do.

 

Daily drivers:

 

Acer Aspire E5-475G

Intel Core i5-7200U 2.5 GHz (Turbo 3.1 GHz) || NVIDIA GeForce 940MX 2GB

4GB Micron DDR4 + 4GB Team Group DDR4 PC19200

120 GB WD Green M.2 SATA SSD + 480 GB Pioneer APS-SL3N SATA SSD

Windows 10 Single Language x64

 

iPhone 6s

2GB RAM, 64GB Internal Storage 

iOS 14.4

(it ain't much, but this phone's still good enough for my daily use)

 

Xiaomi Redmi Note 8

4GB RAM, 64GB Internal Storage 

64GB SanDisk Ultra (80MB/s Read) External Storage

MIUI 12 Global

Aukey Turbo Charger PA-U28 QC2.0 + Aukey CB-CD4 PVC Type-C Cable

 

LOG-ON 690L Power Bank

10000 mAh, QC3.0/PD input (micro-B + Type-C) and output (Type-A + Type-C) capable

 

Audio

Some random home-theater speakers I took freely from someplace and big-ass bass with old computer speaker amplifier. It sounds good af tho.

dbE DJ100 Headphone

Link to post
Share on other sites

Gaming setup:

Asus Xonar Essence stx souncard

Klipsch R-15PM active speakers

AKG K551 headphones

 

Livingroom/htpc setup

Arcam irDAC

Nad C352 used as pre amplifier

Nad C275BEE power amplifier

Dali Concept 10 speakers

 

Happy with everything exept the headphones, they are OK but nothing more, but dont use them that often

 

 

BB098D4F-F7BA-4BC3-A2C7-F76A4F406331.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites
17 hours ago, VoidX said:

Sadly there is no correct DSP other than using a PC as of today. Even high-end processors, like the StormAudio ISP MK2, starting over $20k, can't even supply anything more than a Dirac correction, which is usually off by 10-15 dB at some points. They just don't have the power. A maxed out Audyssey configuration handles 2560 operations per sample per channel, Dirac is speculated to be around 8192 o/s/c, while a PC can easily handle 65536 o/s/c just for a simple crossover (for which I use 48 dB/Hz variants, yes, it's Hz, not octave).

This is why I bought a Bryston SP4 for my HT. I can use REW with it and it's actually really good for a processor to use in conjunction with Ableton for surround mixing/mastering. For 14k~ it's probably the best surround processor I've used. Got my RT60 down to roughly 52ms at it's worst.

 

17 hours ago, VoidX said:

So why is there no development on PC EQs and why does anyone barely build a HT based on PC?

If a company can get people to pay out of their arse's for Dirac Live or some other baked in EQ software, they will.

 

I've tried Dirac on my processor, it work's well for a super quick run through. I suspect this is the reason that alot of people use it. Most people aren't DSP/Sound nerds.

 

Luckily, all my gear can use something other than Dirac. I use REW on the HT, then my McIntosh MEN220's custom software for the dedicated 2 channel system.

If you have any questions about ultra high end audio (Or any speakers or audio gear!), don't be afraid to shoot me a message, or mention me.

 

Spent over 960k on audio gear, still trying to increase sound quality.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
58 minutes ago, Derkoli said:

This is why I bought a Bryston SP4 for my HT. I can use REW with it and it's actually really good for a processor to use in conjunction with Ableton for surround mixing/mastering. For 14k~ it's probably the best surround processor I've used. Got my RT60 down to roughly 52ms at it's worst.

REW is a monster when it comes to performance-efficient frequency response flattening, but there are things you should keep in mind, like aligning the bands correctly and keeping them in a correct order not to hurt the soundstage. This is why I made a custom solution to my clients, which doesn't have this problem, but it's eating up resources way faster. It's easier for the end users, that's what they want.

 

StormAudio also supports REW, but only at one time point with 20 filters. That's actually perfect in combination with most $2000-$4000 acoustic treatments, which I thought Storm users would probably have, judging by its $20k price tag, but they rarely do. In this country, most users like the 200-300 ms decay range for some reason, because a guy selling bad room treatments spread this urban legend. Most of the time I could fix the issues after his "jobs" with some kind of hardware FIR, but without a PC source, it's hard to find what's the best filter I can bake, since the room is already done.

 

58 minutes ago, Derkoli said:

If a company can get people to pay out of their arse's for Dirac Live or some other baked in EQ software, they will.

Dirac has a PC version, but nobody buys it when REW and Equalizer APO exists. Paid AV software never had a good run on the PC, free and/or open source alternatives are just better (more optimized, have more features, more stable, use newer standards) with direct developer support (no company has this, they believe it's unprofessional) and actually usable release and bugfix times (also no company has this, especially software companies). Company-backed AV on the PC was and is nonexistent, and since they can't milk the users, Dolby and DTS keep their formats away from it.

 

58 minutes ago, Derkoli said:

I've tried Dirac on my processor, it work's well for a super quick run through. I suspect this is the reason that alot of people use it. Most people aren't DSP/Sound nerds.

I wouldn't say it works well. Better than uncalibrated for sure, but still not even close to a simple 5-filter REW correction, and we didn't even touch RePhase or more advanced solutions.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a really basic setup

 

Syba sonic as dac/amp cause it has microphone in

Teac dc-d1500 for speaker amp fed by the syba sonic acting as dac

Mordaunt-Short MS 30.1 for speakers

Sennheiser GSP 300 for headset

 

There's not much there to be honest and I was kinda looking for some headphones (hd280pro new model) but I'm not sure anymore as the gsp300 have a good enough sound and I'm afraid I there won't be a day and night difference between those two.  Now I'm thinking that a good dac might be better spending my money than new headphones.  Saw a schiit stack modi2 magni2 on the used "local" market for a nice price but due to some travel restriction I might not be able to get it as it's a two hour drive to get there.  Not sure if I should just blind buy it and ask my sister to get it for me as she lives nearby.  That would take care of the dac and headphone amp.  As for the speaker amp I've spotted a cambridge audio azur 540a and I'm tempted to get it as it's fairly cheap.  I have the CA sr10 in my living room and I really like the sound of it. 

I5 10600K

Sapphire nitro+ RX 590 SE

32 Gb g.skill trident Z ddr4 3200mHz 16-18-18-38

MSI Z490 Tomahawk

Corsair HX 850 gold semi-modular PSU

Noctua NH-U12S with a second noctua NF-F12 fan

WB Black SN750 NVMe ssd

TeamGroup L5 3D Lite 1 Tb sata SSD

XTRFY M42 Retro

GMMK tkl barebones with kailh switches mostly with YMDK double shot PBT retro keycaps

Link to post
Share on other sites
20 minutes ago, Dr0y said:

I have a really basic setup

 

Syba sonic as dac/amp cause it has microphone in

Teac dc-d1500 for speaker amp fed by the syba sonic acting as dac

Mordaunt-Short MS 30.1 for speakers

Sennheiser GSP 300 for headset

How is that basic...?

 

My setup is as follows:

        USB headset plugged directly into PC

 

____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

 

____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

pythonmegapixel

into tech, public transport and architecture // amateur programmer // youtuber // beginner photographer

Thanks for reading all this by the way!

By the way, my desktop is a docked laptop. Get over it, No seriously, I have an exterrnal monitor, keyboard, mouse, headset, ethernet and cooling fans all connected. Using it feels no different to a desktop, it works for several hours if the power goes out, and disconnecting just a few cables gives me something I can take on the go. There's enough power for all games I play and it even copes with basic (and some not-so-basic) video editing. Give it a go - you might just love it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Marshall Acton plugged into the monitor. HD599s for music and most games, SteelSeries 9X for multiplayer.

Dirty Windows Peasants :P ?

Link to post
Share on other sites
19 minutes ago, pythonmegapixel said:

How is that basic...?

 

My setup is as follows:

        USB headset plugged directly into PC

 

My old pc didn't have any microphone input so I had to buy something for that ... that's why I got the syba sonic which is the most basic usb dac/amp I could find with rca out to the speaker amp. 

 

Also it's basic in the way that I don't have any expensive usb interface like the scarlett and such, no powered speaker with bluetooth and sub ... it's just the most basic and inexpensive stuff I could find when I decided to buy. 

I5 10600K

Sapphire nitro+ RX 590 SE

32 Gb g.skill trident Z ddr4 3200mHz 16-18-18-38

MSI Z490 Tomahawk

Corsair HX 850 gold semi-modular PSU

Noctua NH-U12S with a second noctua NF-F12 fan

WB Black SN750 NVMe ssd

TeamGroup L5 3D Lite 1 Tb sata SSD

XTRFY M42 Retro

GMMK tkl barebones with kailh switches mostly with YMDK double shot PBT retro keycaps

Link to post
Share on other sites

There have been a whole bunch of these survey type questions lately.  I am growing disturbed by it.
 

my bottom line is in the middle though I usually cover it with underwear.

 

I built my computer audio system for price and convenience of deployment.  A computer needs to be able to make sounds.  I don’t play PvP shooters where positional audio is life and death.

Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, Bombastinator said:

I built my computer audio system for price and convenience of deployment.  A computer needs to be able to make sounds.  I don’t play PvP shooters where positional audio is life and death.

About the same but I listen to music a lot and I like goodish sound quality and I try to fit that with a low budget. 

I5 10600K

Sapphire nitro+ RX 590 SE

32 Gb g.skill trident Z ddr4 3200mHz 16-18-18-38

MSI Z490 Tomahawk

Corsair HX 850 gold semi-modular PSU

Noctua NH-U12S with a second noctua NF-F12 fan

WB Black SN750 NVMe ssd

TeamGroup L5 3D Lite 1 Tb sata SSD

XTRFY M42 Retro

GMMK tkl barebones with kailh switches mostly with YMDK double shot PBT retro keycaps

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

My current setup is the hyperx cloud 2 but I upgraded this week and my new gear should be in on Tuesday.

 

That consists of the Beyerdynamic DT770 250ohm, Fiio K5 Pro and a USB ModMic. It hasnt even arrived yet and I know I'm going to be venturing down an expensive rabbit hole. I already want to try out the DT990 or DT1990 to see how open backs compare to closed backs. Maybe for christmas :P

Gaming PC

CPU - Ryzen 5 2600 / CPU Cooler - NZXT Kraken Z73 w/ 3 ML120 Pro RGB fans / Motherboard - MSI MAG X570 Tomahawk Wifi / RAM - Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB 32GB @ 3200MHz / GPU - Saphire Nitro+ Vega 64 / PSU - Corsair RM1000i / Storage - 2TB Sabrent Rocket Q / Case - Phanteks P600s / Monitor - Samsung 32" CJG5 1440P 144Hz Keyboard - GMMK with Gateron Browns / Mouse - Razer Viper Ultimate Misc - Elgato Stream Deck, Xbox One Controller

Audio

Gaming PC - Fidelio X2HR / Beyerdynamic DT990 / HyperX Cloud 2, SoundblasterX G6, Modmic Uni 

Phone - Apple Airpods Pro

 

Other Tech I use every day

 Phone - iPhone 11 Pro Max / Wearables - Apple Watch Series 5 44mm Nike+ Ediion

Link to post
Share on other sites

Khadas Tone Board - JDS Lab Atom - Sennheiser 58X

Cambirdge Audio Azur 650A - Boston A26 

AMD R7 2700 | 2x8 3000Mhz Corsair LPX | B450M Mortar  | GTX 1070 6GB | Noctua DH-N14 | Corsair MP50 480GB | BitFenix Phenom M | Corsair AX760 | Khadas Soundboard + JDS Labs Atom | Debian 10 SID

 

Thanks let me know if I said something useful. Cheers!

Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, Radioactive Snowman said:

Fiio K5 Pro

fiio is great really nice stuff

Everyone, Creator初音ミク Hatsune Miku Google commercial.

 

 

Cameras main canon xti Secondary Panasonic GX85 spare Samsung ST68 and nikion s4000

 

Pc

Spoiler

Dell prebuilt - i5-6400- 20GB ram -500gb HDD dvd 

 

HP compaq 8300 prebuilt - Intel i5-3470 - 8GB ram - 500GB HDD - bluray drive

 

old windows 7 gaming desktop - Intel i5 2400 - lenovo CIH61M V:1.0 - 4GB ram - 1TB HDD - dual DVD roms 

 

main laptop acer e5 15 - Intel i3 7th gen - 16GB ram - 1TB HDD - dvd drive                                                                     

 

school laptop lenovo 300e chromebook 2nd gen - Intel celeron - 4GB ram - 32GB SSD 

#Muricaparrotgang                                                                                   

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×