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What is the Risk with These 2 Used Power Supplies?

Hello professionals.

 

Right now I need to test if my motherboard powers on with other PSUs. I didn't feel like purchasing new power supply just to see if my motherboard works so I found someone on Facebook who gave away his 2 power supplies that he doesn't know if they even work.

 

Both power supplies don't have 4/4+2 connectors for my graphics card and I don't really care about that because all I need is to make sure my motherboard powers on i.e. SYS_FAN and CPU_FAN spin.

 

Here's first power supply. It doesn't have I/O back switch but it's not a big deal:

 

20200921_180012.thumb.jpg.c4caa084b5548a1ab7377a29cbe7309f.jpg

 

Here's a second more sexier power supply:

 

20200921_180156.thumb.jpg.2853b6326bb29c44420b2664b72486c1.jpg

 

Here's how it looks from behind:

 

20200921_180314.thumb.jpg.e5c731dea13561b4dff27699b190bf02.jpg

 

I am going to use paperclip to turn each power supply on. Seeing their fans work, I am going to test their 24-pin cables for nominal voltages. Should I also test 4-pin CPU cord?

 

Now on serious note, how high is risk for these power supplies to damage motherboard?

 

My system specs:

 

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600X

Motherboard: Gigabyte B450 Aorus Elite 

GPU: EVGA GeForce RTX 2060

RAM: 2x8GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 3200MHz 

Original Power Supply: Corsair TX650M 

 

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what the fudge. do not use any of those!!!! even on office system.

 

it is very likely that your motheboard explodes or something.

QUOTE ME  FOR ANSWER.

 

Main PC:

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|Ryzen 7 3700x, OC to 4.2ghz @1.3V, 67C, or 4.4ghz @1.456V, 87C || Asus strix 5700 XT, +50 core, +50 memory, +50 power (not a great overclocker) || Asus Strix b550-A || G.skill trident Z Neo rgb 32gb 3600mhz cl16-19-19-19-39, oc to 3733mhz with the same timings || Cooler Master ml360 RGB AIO || Phanteks P500A Digital || Thermaltake ToughPower grand RGB750w 80+gold || Samsung 850 250gb and Adata SX 6000 Lite 500gb || Toshiba 5400rpm 1tb || Asus Rog Theta 7.1 || Asus Rog claymore || Asus Gladius 2 origin gaming mouse || Monitor 1 Asus 1080p 144hz || Monitor 2 AOC 1080p 75hz || 

Test Rig.

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Ryzen 5 3400G || Gigabyte b450 S2H || Hyper X fury 2x4gb 2666mhz cl 16 ||Stock cooler || Antec NX100 || Silverstone essential 400w || Transgend SSD 220s 480gb ||

Just Sold

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| i3 9100F || Msi Gaming X gtx 1050 TI || MSI Z390 A-Pro || Kingston 1x16gb 2400mhz cl17 || Stock cooler || Kolink Horizon RGB || Corsair CV 550w || Pny CS900 120gb ||

 

Tier lists for building a PC.

 

Motherboard tier list. Tier A for overclocking 5950x. Tier B for overclocking 5900x, Tier C for overclocking 5800X. Tier D for overclocking 5600X. Tier F for 4/6 core Cpus at stock. Tier E avoid.

(Also case airflow matter or if you are using Downcraft air cooler)

Spoiler

 

Gpu tier list. Rtx 3000 and RX 6000 not included since not so many reviews. Tier S for Water cooling. Tier A and B for overcloking. Tier C stock and Tier D avoid.

( You can overclock Tier C just fine, but it can get very loud, that is why it is not recommended for overclocking, same with tier D)

Spoiler

 

Psu tier List. Tier A for Rtx 3000, Vega and RX 6000. Tier B For anything else. Tier C cheap/IGPU. Tier D and E avoid.

(RTX 3000/ RX 6000 Might run just fine with higher wattage tier B unit, Rtx 3070 runs fine with tier B units)

Spoiler

 

Cpu cooler tier list. Tier 1&2 for power hungry Cpus with Overclock. Tier 3&4 for overclocking Ryzen 3,5,7 or lower power Intel Cpus. Tier 5 for overclocking low end Cpus or 4/6 core Ryzen. Tier 6&7 for stock. Tier 8&9 Ryzen stock cooler performance. Do not waste your money!

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Storage tier List. Tier A for Moving files/  OS. Tier B for OS/Games. Tier C for games. Tier D budget Pcs. Tier E if on sale not the worst but not good.

(With a grain of salt, I use tier C for OS myself)

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Case Tier List. Work In Progress. Most Phanteks airflow series cases already done!

Ask me anything :)

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26 minutes ago, TechnicGeek said:

Here's how it looks from behind:

no just junk it

its rusting!!!!!!!!!!!!

that probaly means it got wet not trust worthy

Everyone, Creator初音ミク Hatsune Miku Google commercial.

 

 

Cameras: Main: Canon 70D - Secondary: Panasonic GX85 - Spare: Samsung ST68. - Action cams: GoPro Hero+, Akaso EK7000pro

Dead cameras: Nikion s4000, Canon XTi

 

Pc's

Spoiler

Dell optiplex 5050 (main) - i5-6500- 20GB ram -500gb samsung 970 evo  500gb WD blue HDD - dvd r/w

 

HP compaq 8300 prebuilt - Intel i5-3470 - 8GB ram - 500GB HDD - bluray drive

 

old windows 7 gaming desktop - Intel i5 2400 - lenovo CIH61M V:1.0 - 4GB ram - 1TB HDD - dual DVD r/w

 

main laptop acer e5 15 - Intel i3 7th gen - 16GB ram - 1TB HDD - dvd drive                                                                     

 

school laptop lenovo 300e chromebook 2nd gen - Intel celeron - 4GB ram - 32GB SSD 

 

audio mac- 2017 apple macbook air A1466 EMC 3178

Any questions? pm me.

#Muricaparrotgang                                                                                   

 

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Yeah, I will get rid of second rusty power supply. Huntkey power supply is not rusty though.

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"What is the risk?"

 

Yes

 

 

edit: honestly, scale up PSU quality with your system tier

yours is a mid tier PC and it deserves a tier B PSU

-sigh- feeling like I'm being too negative lately

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5 minutes ago, TechnicGeek said:

Yeah, I will get rid of second rusty power supply. Huntkey power supply is not rusty though.

umm I don't think 350watts will power the system

Everyone, Creator初音ミク Hatsune Miku Google commercial.

 

 

Cameras: Main: Canon 70D - Secondary: Panasonic GX85 - Spare: Samsung ST68. - Action cams: GoPro Hero+, Akaso EK7000pro

Dead cameras: Nikion s4000, Canon XTi

 

Pc's

Spoiler

Dell optiplex 5050 (main) - i5-6500- 20GB ram -500gb samsung 970 evo  500gb WD blue HDD - dvd r/w

 

HP compaq 8300 prebuilt - Intel i5-3470 - 8GB ram - 500GB HDD - bluray drive

 

old windows 7 gaming desktop - Intel i5 2400 - lenovo CIH61M V:1.0 - 4GB ram - 1TB HDD - dual DVD r/w

 

main laptop acer e5 15 - Intel i3 7th gen - 16GB ram - 1TB HDD - dvd drive                                                                     

 

school laptop lenovo 300e chromebook 2nd gen - Intel celeron - 4GB ram - 32GB SSD 

 

audio mac- 2017 apple macbook air A1466 EMC 3178

Any questions? pm me.

#Muricaparrotgang                                                                                   

 

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43 minutes ago, TechnicGeek said:

What is the Risk with These 2 Used Power Supplies?

Well.. let's see.

 

One of them is just going to blow up and kill all of your PC hardware.

 

The other one will shoot flames and burn down your house.

 

 

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So if I do paperclip test and multimeter test with first power supply and voltage will be good, do I still run the risk of damaging my hardware?

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Could you make a video showing you kill your parts with one of those bombs?

Interim 15 T200 OKF("F" intel processors are specifically archituctured for gaming) maybe upgrad to 13'900 | Peeralight cpu fan | Stryx Z690-A Wife(which is branded by ASUS and it's ROG label) | Thermotake 16x 8x2GO SODINM 2400mjz cl22 (2 of them with the mood lighting) | 980 EVO 1TB m.2 ssd card + Kensington 2TB SATA nvme + WD BLACK PRO ULTRA MAX 4TB GAMING DESTROYER HHD | Echa etc 3060 duel fan dissipator 12 GBi and Azrock with the radian 550 XT Tiachi | NEXT H510 Vit Klar Svart | Seasonice 600watts voeding(rated for 100.000 hours, running since 2010, ballpark estimate 8 hours a day which should make it good for 34 years) | Nocturna case fans | 0LED Duel moniter

 

New build in progress: Ryen™ 8 7700x3D with a copper pipe fan | Z60e-A | Kingstron RENEGATE 16x2 Go hyenix | Phantek 2 the thar mesh in front | lead lex black label psu + AsiaHorse białe/białe | 1080 Pro 8TB 15800MB/S NvMe(for gaming this increase fps and charging time, cooled by a M.2 slot with coolblock and additional thermopad) and faster 4000GB HHD | MAI GeForce GTX 2070 Ti

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29 minutes ago, TechnicGeek said:

So if I do paperclip test and multimeter test with first power supply and voltage will be good, do I still run the risk of damaging my hardware?

there's probably bad safety on these things, so they could literally kill your entire PC if something in there is bad (judging from the rust, high chance)

 

i would advice against it, and 350W (if these can even deliver it) is barely enough for your rig

 

dont forget to quote/mention when replying so we'll see it

-sigh- feeling like I'm being too negative lately

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44 minutes ago, TechnicGeek said:

Huntkey power supply is not rusty though.

250W sustained is not enough, assuming it can deliver 250W

 

42 minutes ago, Moonzy said:

edit: honestly, scale up PSU quality with your system tier

yours is a mid tier PC and it deserves a tier B PSU

refer to the PSU tier list in the Cases and Power Supply subforum

-sigh- feeling like I'm being too negative lately

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@Moonzy There are 3 options for me left:

 

1. Buy used PSU of known brand which works

2. Buy generic $25 PSU from PC repair shop

3. Spend $150 on a new branded PSU

 

I really prefer one of first 2 options. All I need is to test motherboard. 

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35 minutes ago, TechnicGeek said:

So if I do paperclip test and multimeter test with first power supply and voltage will be good, do I still run the risk of damaging my hardware?

 

Best to just throw them away.

i9 9900K @ 5.0 GHz, NH D15, 32 GB DDR4 3200 GSKILL Trident Z RGB, AORUS Z390 MASTER, EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Samsung 860 EVO 500GB, ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q 27", Steel Series APEX PRO, Logitech Gaming Pro Mouse, CM Master Case 5, Corsair AXI 1600W Titanium. 

 

i7 8086K, AORUS Z370 Gaming 5, 16GB GSKILL RJV DDR4 3200, EVGA 2080TI FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 970 EVO 250GB, (2)SAMSUNG 860 EVO 500 GB, Acer Predator XB1 XB271HU, Corsair HXI 850W.

 

i7 8700K, AORUS Z370 Ultra Gaming, 16GB DDR4 3000, EVGA 1080Ti FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 960 EVO 250GB, Corsair HX 850W.

 

 

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Just now, TechnicGeek said:

All I need is to test motherboard

use it at your own risk, we are pretty against it

-sigh- feeling like I'm being too negative lately

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8 minutes ago, TechnicGeek said:

@Moonzy There 3 options for me left:

 

1. Buy used PSU of known brand which works

2. Buy generic $25 PSU from PC repair shop

3. Spend $150 on a new branded PSU

 

I really prefer one of first 2 options. All I need is to test motherboard. 

 

OR...

 

Take the MB into the PC repair shop that you would go into anyway to get the used PSU and let them test it....

 

Would take about 5 mins for them to see if it works and you lose nothing and buy nothing you don't need.

 

 

i9 9900K @ 5.0 GHz, NH D15, 32 GB DDR4 3200 GSKILL Trident Z RGB, AORUS Z390 MASTER, EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Samsung 860 EVO 500GB, ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q 27", Steel Series APEX PRO, Logitech Gaming Pro Mouse, CM Master Case 5, Corsair AXI 1600W Titanium. 

 

i7 8086K, AORUS Z370 Gaming 5, 16GB GSKILL RJV DDR4 3200, EVGA 2080TI FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 970 EVO 250GB, (2)SAMSUNG 860 EVO 500 GB, Acer Predator XB1 XB271HU, Corsair HXI 850W.

 

i7 8700K, AORUS Z370 Ultra Gaming, 16GB DDR4 3000, EVGA 1080Ti FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 960 EVO 250GB, Corsair HX 850W.

 

 

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1 hour ago, TechnicGeek said:

Here's how it looks from behind:

Thanks. I had never seen a power supply with syphillis before. 

That Sun Pro is ancient. Still has -5V which has been obsolete for what, 20 years? Max 9A on the "12V" rail (probably really "anywhere between 10-15V rail")

 

1 hour ago, TechnicGeek said:

Both power supplies don't have 4/4+2 connectors for my graphics card

PCIe power cables (for the graphics card) are either 6 pin or 8 pin.

 

What problem are you having with your system? Describe in detail what happens when you try to turn on the system with your current Corsair TX650M power supply.

CPU: Intel i7 6700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 5 | RAM: 2x16GB 3000MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX | GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080ti | PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018) | Case: BeQuiet SilentBase 800 | Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34 eSports | SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + Samsung 840 500GB + Crucial MX500 2TB | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU + Samsung BX2450

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Just now, TechnicGeek said:

@Ankerson Sadly PC repair shop is not an option.

 

 

So, you PC isn't running at all then currently?

 

 

i9 9900K @ 5.0 GHz, NH D15, 32 GB DDR4 3200 GSKILL Trident Z RGB, AORUS Z390 MASTER, EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Samsung 860 EVO 500GB, ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q 27", Steel Series APEX PRO, Logitech Gaming Pro Mouse, CM Master Case 5, Corsair AXI 1600W Titanium. 

 

i7 8086K, AORUS Z370 Gaming 5, 16GB GSKILL RJV DDR4 3200, EVGA 2080TI FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 970 EVO 250GB, (2)SAMSUNG 860 EVO 500 GB, Acer Predator XB1 XB271HU, Corsair HXI 850W.

 

i7 8700K, AORUS Z370 Ultra Gaming, 16GB DDR4 3000, EVGA 1080Ti FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 960 EVO 250GB, Corsair HX 850W.

 

 

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2 hours ago, TechnicGeek said:

Hello professionals.

 

Right now I need to test if my motherboard powers on with other PSUs. I didn't feel like purchasing new power supply just to see if my motherboard works so I found someone on Facebook who gave away his 2 power supplies that he doesn't know if they even work.

 

Both power supplies don't have 4/4+2 connectors for my graphics card and I don't really care about that because all I need is to make sure my motherboard powers on i.e. SYS_FAN and CPU_FAN spin.

Kill them both with fire before the first one kills your motherboard with fire and the second one kills you with fire.

Aerocool DS are the best fans you've never tried.

 

Hypnotoad's RAM is dying, his motherboard is acting like the 6-year-old AsRock it is, a couple of SATA ports have just stopped working, but the RGB remains. The RGB always remains. Hypnotoad lives. All glory to the Hypnotoad.

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Okay, I will describe anomaly that nobody solved until now.

 

Recently I have left my computer unused for a few days, maybe 1 week. When I tried to power it on it didn't. I took motherboard, CPU, RAM and power supply out of chassis to try to understand what is wrong.

 

I started with power supply. Used paperclip to connect green and black and saw that fan was spinning. Then I took cheap multimeter I purchased from Chinese website and check 24-pin cable voltages. All powered pins were within proper range.

 

After using screwdriver, paperclip, pocket knife, kitchen knife, spoon on 2-pins responsible for powering on motherboard I decided the problem was in motherboard. When I flipped I/0 switch on power supply the Aorus logo led turned on for 1 second only but CPU_FAN and SYS_FAN were not spinning. It was all quiet. No speaker in my system by the way but I doubt it would beep with motherboard not powering up.

 

I shipped my motherboard to PC repair shop since it's still under warranty and after testing it they called me and told it works. Receiving it back nothing changed on my side. I still couldn't power it on. Took PSU to 2 electronics repair shops where they used Chinese power supply voltage tester. They told me my PSU works. I wanted them to plug it into their computers but they told me they don't want to take the risk of damaging PCs of their clientele.

 

I took my motherboard, CPU, RAM and PSU to PC repair shop and paid money to check if my motherboard works using my components only. And what do you know? It worked right away and I couldn't believe my eyes. Technician said all works, there is nothing more to check.

 

I tried powering my motherboard using exact same components. It didn't work. Tried plugging off UPS from wall outlet to use battery's power and it didn't work. I took these components to my neighbor on 3rd floor in my apartment thinking electricity in my flat might be not "clean" but it didn't work again.

 

That's the anomaly my friends. Either evil spirit possessed my motherboard or PSU or they just hate me. Maybe I need to call techsorcist. I don't know what to think but I am not going to lose my sanity because of that. 

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2 minutes ago, TechnicGeek said:

Okay, I will describe anomaly that nobody solved until now.

 

Recently I have left my computer unused for a few days, maybe 1 week. When I tried to power it on it didn't. I took motherboard, CPU, RAM and power supply out of chassis to try to understand what is wrong.

 

I started with power supply. Used paperclip to connect green and black and saw that fan was spinning. Then I took cheap multimeter I purchased from Chinese website and check 24-pin cable voltages. All powered pins were within proper range.

 

After using screwdriver, paperclip, pocket knife, kitchen knife, spoon on 2-pins responsible for powering on motherboard I decided the problem was in motherboard. When I flipped I/0 switch on power supply the Aorus logo led turned on for 1 second only but CPU_FAN and SYS_FAN were not spinning. It was all quiet. No speaker in my system by the way but I doubt it would beep with motherboard not powering up.

 

I shipped my motherboard to PC repair shop since it's still under warranty and after testing it they called me and told it works. Receiving it back nothing changed on my side. I still couldn't power it on. Took PSU to 2 electronics repair shops where they used Chinese power supply voltage tester. They told me my PSU works. I wanted them to plug it into their computers but they told me they don't want to take the risk of damaging PCs of their clientele.

 

I took my motherboard, CPU, RAM and PSU to PC repair shop and paid money to check if my motherboard works using my components only. And what do you know? It worked right away and I couldn't believe my eyes. Technician said all works, there is nothing more to check.

 

I tried powering my motherboard using exact same components. It didn't work. Tried plugging off power supply to use battery's power and it didn't work. I took these components to my neighbor on 3rd floor in my apartment thinking electricity in my flat might be not "clean" but it didn't work again.

 

That's the anomaly my friends. Either evil spirit possessed my motherboard or PSU or they just hate me. Maybe I need to call techsorcist. I don't know what to think but I am not going to lose my sanity because of that. 

 

The paperclip test is worthless to check a PSU...

 

Have you called Corsair....?

 

@jonnyGURU

i9 9900K @ 5.0 GHz, NH D15, 32 GB DDR4 3200 GSKILL Trident Z RGB, AORUS Z390 MASTER, EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Samsung 860 EVO 500GB, ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q 27", Steel Series APEX PRO, Logitech Gaming Pro Mouse, CM Master Case 5, Corsair AXI 1600W Titanium. 

 

i7 8086K, AORUS Z370 Gaming 5, 16GB GSKILL RJV DDR4 3200, EVGA 2080TI FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 970 EVO 250GB, (2)SAMSUNG 860 EVO 500 GB, Acer Predator XB1 XB271HU, Corsair HXI 850W.

 

i7 8700K, AORUS Z370 Ultra Gaming, 16GB DDR4 3000, EVGA 1080Ti FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 960 EVO 250GB, Corsair HX 850W.

 

 

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@Spotty I have described my issue above.

 

@Ankerson I am non-US... Do you think emailing Corsair will help? I asked about my problem on eSupport Gigabyte but they just tell me to take all of my system to check in PC repair shop, which is what I did but without chassis, HDD and SSD. They have no clue or play dumb.

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3 minutes ago, TechnicGeek said:

@Spotty I have described my issue above.

 

@Ankerson I am non-US... Do you think emailing Corsair will help? I asked about my problem on eSupport Gigabyte but they just tell me to take all of my system to check in PC repair shop, which is what I did but without chassis, HDD and SSD. They have no clue or play dumb.

 

Yeah, email them...

 

@Corsair Nick

i9 9900K @ 5.0 GHz, NH D15, 32 GB DDR4 3200 GSKILL Trident Z RGB, AORUS Z390 MASTER, EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Samsung 860 EVO 500GB, ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q 27", Steel Series APEX PRO, Logitech Gaming Pro Mouse, CM Master Case 5, Corsair AXI 1600W Titanium. 

 

i7 8086K, AORUS Z370 Gaming 5, 16GB GSKILL RJV DDR4 3200, EVGA 2080TI FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 970 EVO 250GB, (2)SAMSUNG 860 EVO 500 GB, Acer Predator XB1 XB271HU, Corsair HXI 850W.

 

i7 8700K, AORUS Z370 Ultra Gaming, 16GB DDR4 3000, EVGA 1080Ti FTW3 Ultra, Samsung 960 EVO 250GB, Corsair HX 850W.

 

 

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