Jump to content

What's a good backup power unit to get for my computer?

LadyCore

I just build a new computer and would like to get one of those units where you plug your computer and other devices into so that if the power goes out, your devices won't just shut off. I was thinking of getting the Cyberpower units, but not sure how many watts I need? I plan on plugging my computer and TV, print and speakers. My computer has an 850 Watt PSU with i9-10900K and soon to be 3080ti card. With that in mind, which model do you think would work well with my setup?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I always recommend the PFCLCD units.

They are pure sinewave, which you should always get.

The CP1500PFCLCD is what I've used for the past five years and it works great, I just bought the new updated one with 12 outlets and newer interface.

It's like $200 which is a really good price.

NEW PC build: Blank Heaven   minimalist white and black PC     Old S340 build log "White Heaven"        The "LIGHTCANON" flashlight build log        Project AntiRoll (prototype)        Custom speaker project

Spoiler

Ryzen 3950X | AMD Vega Frontier Edition | ASUS X570 Pro WS | Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB | NZXT H500 | Seasonic Prime Fanless TX-700 | Custom loop | Coolermaster SK630 White | Logitech MX Master 2S | Samsung 980 Pro 1TB + 970 Pro 512GB | Samsung 58" 4k TV | Scarlett 2i4 | 2x AT2020

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not sure how the calculations all work so I'll let someone else tell you the size you need. 

 

I do have some really good experience with refurbups.com. Shockingly good prices and their UPS's come with new batteries too. Highly recommend if you are looking to save a few bucks.

ask me about my homelab

on a personal quest convincing the general public to return to the glory that is 12" laptops.

cheap and easy cable management is my fetish.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Spoiler
Spoiler

AMD 5000 Series Ryzen 7 5800X| MSI MAG X570 Tomahawk WiFi | G.SKILL Trident Z RGB 32GB (2 * 16GB) DDR4 3200MHz CL16-18-18-38 | Asus GeForce GTX 3080Ti STRIX | SAMSUNG 980 PRO 500GB PCIe NVMe Gen4 SSD M.2 + Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1TB PCIe NVMe M.2 (2280) Gen3 | Cooler Master V850 Gold V2 Modular | Corsair iCUE H115i RGB Pro XT | Cooler Master Box MB511 | ASUS TUF Gaming VG259Q Gaming Monitor 144Hz, 1ms, IPS, G-Sync | Logitech G 304 Lightspeed | Logitech G213 Gaming Keyboard |

PCPartPicker 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Enderman said:

I always recommend the PFCLCD units.

They are pure sinewave, which you should always get.

The CP1500PFCLCD is what I've used for the past five years and it works great, I just bought the new updated one with 12 outlets and newer interface.

It's like $200 which is a really good price.

Cyberpower are the one's I've used. My 1st model was the one you mentioned, CP1500PFCLCD, I think it lasted me about a little over 3 years before it died out on me. I was going to replace the battery but for the price of that it would've been much better just to buy a new unit. My 2nd one is the CP1350AVRLCD. But do these units typically die out that fast? I was hoping that they last longer than that. 

 

What's the difference between the PFC and AVR models? The CP1500 can handle a max of 900watts which I think is sufficient for my setup.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, LadyCore said:

I was going to replace the battery but for the price of that it would've been much better just to buy a new unit.

The batteries in typical consumer-grade UPSes are plain, old 12V gel-cell batteries and you don't actually need to buy manufacturer-specific ones; just take the one already in there out, check its ratings and its width, height and length and replace it with any generic non-starter1 gel-cell battery with similar specs from local hardware-stores. They're far cheaper than ordering one from the manufacturer and are literally the same thing, just without the brand-name markup.

 

1) Batteries meant for starting up the engine in motor-vehicles are designed to provide a lot of amps, but not to have much capacity or longevity and aren't really suitable for UPS-use.

Hand, n. A singular instrument worn at the end of the human arm and commonly thrust into somebody’s pocket.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I wish I knew that before I threw my old unit out. Sigh. Roughly how much would a battery cost if not bought directly from the manufacturer?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×