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Looking for thermal paste with long-term application longevity

Hello! I've been researching a lot about thermal pastes, and I'm particularly looking for one that I can apply and forget about it, for at least 2 years, without losing too much efficiency. It really doesn't matter if it performs a bit worse than cheaper ones. I'm not an overclocker so I'm ok with exchanging 2-3c for longevity.

 

I've heard only Arctic Silver 5 manages to last that long. Arctic MX-4 claims it lasts 8 years, but I've read reviews of it degrading after only 6-8 months, with a big increase in temperature. It might be because most people buy it from China, and I've read many reviews saying most of the MX-4 from China are fake.

Is there any other brand out there that I could check out?

 

I don't mind if it has a higher price, as long at I don't need to worry about reapplying for a while.

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Most quality thermal pastes should last at least 2 years, just don’t go with a cheap Chinese knockoff. If you are really concerned about longevity and don’t mind the slight decrease in thermal performance, it could be worth it to look into thermal pads instead of thermal paste.

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MX-4

ahem edit (yea don't buy from china)

- If it ain't broken, don't fix it! - - Your post codes and beep codes in the drop down below -

Competitive Benching Team - Warp9-Systems 

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Most good ones last way more than 2 years.  Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut/Hydronaut is pretty good.  They are non-curing and non-conductive and are at the top of the charts in terms of thermal performance too.

QUOTE ME IN A REPLY SO I CAN SEE THE NOTIFICATION!

When there is no danger of failure there is no pleasure in success.

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11 minutes ago, takk said:

Hello! I've been researching a lot about thermal pastes, and I'm particularly looking for one that I can apply and forget about it, for at least 2 years, without losing too much efficiency. It really doesn't matter if it performs a bit worse than cheaper ones. I'm not an overclocker so I'm ok with exchanging 2-3c for longevity.

 

I've heard only Arctic Silver 5 manages to last that long. Arctic MX-4 claims it lasts 8 years, but I've read reviews of it degrading after only 6-8 months, with a big increase in temperature. It might be because most people buy it from China, and I've read many reviews saying most of the MX-4 from China are fake.

Is there any other brand out there that I could check out?

 

I don't mind if it has a higher price, as long at I don't need to worry about reapplying for a while.

I have used Arctic silver 5 for most of my PC using years, now I use kryonaut as its "a little better". Realistically, any paste will be fine for a very, very long time. 2 years is nothing to even consider worrying about. Most PC's I have built (over 20) have never had the CPU heatsink taken back off, some are 10+ years old and working fine.

Rig: i7 10700k @ 5.1Ghz, 4.8 Ring - - Z490 Vision G - - EVGA RTX 2080 XC Ultra @ 2025Mhz - - 4x8GB Vengeance Pro 3000Mhz 15-17-17-34 @ 3500MHz 16-19-19-38 - - Samsung 950 Pro 512 NVMe Boot + Main Programs - - Samsung 830 Pro 256 RAID 0 Lightroom + Photo work - - WD Blue 1 TB SSD for Games - - Corsair RM850x - - Sound BlasterX EA-5 - - EK Supremacy Evo - - XT45 X-Flow 420 + UT60 280 rads - - EK Full Cover GPU Block - - EK XRES RGB PWM - - Fractal Define S2 - - Acer Predator X34 -- Logitech G502 - - Logitech G710+ - - Logitech Z5500 - - Steel Series QcK XXL

 

Headphones/amp/dac: Schiit Lyr 3 - - Fostex TR-X00 - - Sennheiser HD 6xx

 

Homelab/ Media Server: ESXi 6.5 - - 250 GB SSD for VM's/ESXi boot - - FreeNAS - - HPE Proliant ML10 Gen 9 backbone - - i3 6100 - - 28 GB ECC - - 10x4 TB WD Red RAID Z2 - - 10TB WD Red for expendable data - - Corsair 750D - - Corsair RM650i - - Dell H310 6Gbps SAS HBA - - Intel RES2SC240 SAS Expander

 

White Lightning (original full watercooled build) - Homelab / Media Server - The Blue Beast (my car and other expensive hobby...) - iPhone Xs - 2018 MacBook Air

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Something non drying and not liquid metal would be my basic take.

 

I like the diamond powder filled paste I bought some years ago.  Might be ICdiamond but I’m not sure. Had extremely small industrial diamonds in it.  It’s non drying but has good conductivity.  Been holding for 5 years so far.  I recently wiggled my cooler a bit and it’s still moving and working good.

Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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Just now, Bombastinator said:

I like the diamond powder filled paste I bought some years ago.  Might be ICdiamond but I’m not sure. Had extremely small industrial diamonds in it.  It’s non drying but has good conductivity.  Been holding for 5 years so far.  I recently wiggled my cooler a bit and it’s still moving and working good.

I'm using IC diamond on naked cores.

Prefer Antec Formula 7

 

The IC Diamond spreads horribly. It's very thick. Needs some burn in time as well. Not good for chilling if a burn in isn't done first. But, good thermals. 

 

- If it ain't broken, don't fix it! - - Your post codes and beep codes in the drop down below -

Competitive Benching Team - Warp9-Systems 

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1 minute ago, ShrimpBrime said:

I'm using IC diamond on naked cores.

Prefer Antec Formula 7

 

The IC Diamond spreads horribly. It's very thick. Needs some burn in time as well. Not good for chilling if a burn in isn't done first. But, good thermals. 

 

I definitely did not use ICdiamond then.  The stuff I used was not thick.

Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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Just now, Bombastinator said:

I definitely did not use ICdiamond then.  The stuff I used was not thick.

I don't know the age of my tubes. They could have gotten thick through time. Had 3 of them. Only got a shot left.

 

The Antec Formula 7 is really easy to spread. And I think it actually works better than the IC diamond. However, these are the only 2 diamond pastes I've tried asside from Antec Formula 6 which has almost the same conductivity as the 7. I used this for at least 12 years over, say... 50-75 different cpus at least. A few GPUs as well.

- If it ain't broken, don't fix it! - - Your post codes and beep codes in the drop down below -

Competitive Benching Team - Warp9-Systems 

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2 minutes ago, ShrimpBrime said:

I don't know the age of my tubes. They could have gotten thick through time. Had 3 of them. Only got a shot left.

 

The Antec Formula 7 is really easy to spread. And I think it actually works better than the IC diamond. However, these are the only 2 diamond pastes I've tried asside from Antec Formula 6 which has almost the same conductivity as the 7. I used this for at least 12 years over, say... 50-75 different cpus at least. A few GPUs as well.

Antec formula 7 is also a diamond filled paste? What I mostly remember shopping was at the time one could pick the size of the diamonds and their percentage of content.  I looked for the smallest ones with the highest percentage content I could find.  The stuff was not especially cheap iirc.

Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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4 minutes ago, Bombastinator said:

Antec formula 7 is also a diamond filled paste?

Yep, that's a diamond nano paste. 

The only issue with diamond pastes, when you wipe the paste off the IHS plate, it removes the laser etching from the IHS plate. It's like a super fine grit sand paper lol. That's why a lot of people don't like it.

 

But, diamond is the best thermal conductor on the planet. Why would you not use it?

- If it ain't broken, don't fix it! - - Your post codes and beep codes in the drop down below -

Competitive Benching Team - Warp9-Systems 

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I'm using whatever Cryorig included in their cooler and it's going in three years now with no problems.

 

I think people mess with them more often than the really need to.

Before you reply to my post, REFRESH. 99.99% chance I edited my post. 

 

My System: i9-10900KF 5.1-5.3ghz @ 1.365v // Corsair iCUE H150i Elite Capellix // Gigabyte Z590 Aorus Elite AX // 32GB (4x8) Crucial Ballistix Elite DDR4 4000/CL18 // ASUS RTX 3080 TUF OC // Corsair 5000D Airflow // Corsair SP120 RGB Pro x7 // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w //1TB ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro/1TB Samsung 860 EVO/2TB Seagate 7200RPM Hard Drive // Displays: LG Ultragear 32GP83B/Lenovo L24Q-30/Lenovo L24Q-30 // Glorious GMMK TKL // Corsair Harpoon Wireless // Corsair H70 Gaming Headset

 

Wife's System: i9-9900K Stock // Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi // Gigabyte Z390M Gaming // 32GB (4x8) Corsair Vengeance LED DDR4 3200 // ASUS KO RTX 3070 // Cooler Master Master Box NR400 ODD // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w // 1TB ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro/1TB Samsung 860 EVO/4TB Western Digital HDD // Displays: LG Ultragear 27GL83A-B/AOC AGON AG241QX/ASUS VG248QE // Corsair K68 Mechanical Keyboard // Corsair Harpoon Wireless // LG BDRW // NexStar 5.25" USB 3 Enclosure

 

TV Gamer: i7-8700K 5.0ghz All-core delidded @1.375v // Deepcool Gamerstorm Assassin III // Gigabyte Aorus Z370 Gaming 5 // 32GB (4x8) Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3200 // XFX 5700XT RAW II // Corsair 275R Airflow // Corsair 650M Vengeance 650w // Intel 660P 1TB NVME M.2 SSD/4TB Western Digital Blue // Display: 50" Westinghouse 1080p // Rii Wireless Mini Keyboard w/Touchpad/Xbox One Controllers

 

TV Gamer 2: Intel i3-10100 // ASRock H410M-HDV/M.2 // 16GB (2x8) DDR4 T-Force Vulcan 2666 // XFX RX 580 8GB XXX Edition // Rosewill FBM-X2 // Gigabyte P750GM // 480GB PNY CS1311 SSD/2TB Seagate HDD // Display: LG 50" 4k TV // Rii Wireless Mini Keyboard w/Touchpad/Xbox One Controllers Donated.

 

Son's System: i7-8700 // Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi // ASRock Z370 Extreme 4 // 16GB (2x8) GeIL Potenza DDR 3200 // EVGA XC RTX 3060 // Corsair 275R Airflow // EVGA Supernova G5 650W Gold // 525GB Crucial MX300/1TB WD SN550 // Display: ACER Nitro VG240Y PBiip / Dell P2417H // Corsair K60 Pro SE // Logitech G203

 

Daughter's System: i5-9400 // Cooler Master i71c // MSI H310M Pro VDH-Plus // 8GB (2x4) Leven DDR4 2666 (2400) // Zotac GTX 1060 3GB Mini // DarkFlash Micro ATX White // Corsair CX550 // 480GB PNY CS1311 SSD/2TB Seagate HDD // Display: ASUS VG245H // Redragon TKL Mechanic Keyboard + Mouse

 

Ryzen 5 1600 // Gigabyte B450 Aorus M Retired.

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1 minute ago, Mister Woof said:

I'm using whatever Cryorig included in their cooler and it's going in three years now with no problems.

 

I think people mess with them more often than the really need to.

Some pastes need to be messed with regularly.  Like liquid metal.  Only one reason I won’t use it.  I’d rather have a pure indium sheet and put up with ultra scary pressure requirements.

Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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3 minutes ago, Mister Woof said:

I'm using whatever Cryorig included in their cooler and it's going in three years now with no problems.

 

I think people mess with them more often than the really need to.

Probably one of the CP series of pastes from the looks of it.

- If it ain't broken, don't fix it! - - Your post codes and beep codes in the drop down below -

Competitive Benching Team - Warp9-Systems 

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2 minutes ago, Bombastinator said:

Some pastes need to be messed with regularly.  Like liquid metal.  Only one reason I won’t use it.  I’d rather have a pure indium sheet and put up with ultra scary pressure requirements.

I have no interest in trying liquid metal.

Watching people de-lid soldered chips, then using LM. 

First the solder is a complete bond and transfers thermals better.

The only reason I ever did a de-lid was to run direct die cooling.

For the most part, up till Zen, had potential to gain 100mhz from drop in temps.

But a re-lid for an Intel chip, like 8700K, LM under the lid is a great replacement. 

- If it ain't broken, don't fix it! - - Your post codes and beep codes in the drop down below -

Competitive Benching Team - Warp9-Systems 

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12 minutes ago, Bombastinator said:

Some pastes need to be messed with regularly.  Like liquid metal.  Only one reason I won’t use it.  I’d rather have a pure indium sheet and put up with ultra scary pressure requirements.

Going on three years on my application of conductonaut, too.

Before you reply to my post, REFRESH. 99.99% chance I edited my post. 

 

My System: i9-10900KF 5.1-5.3ghz @ 1.365v // Corsair iCUE H150i Elite Capellix // Gigabyte Z590 Aorus Elite AX // 32GB (4x8) Crucial Ballistix Elite DDR4 4000/CL18 // ASUS RTX 3080 TUF OC // Corsair 5000D Airflow // Corsair SP120 RGB Pro x7 // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w //1TB ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro/1TB Samsung 860 EVO/2TB Seagate 7200RPM Hard Drive // Displays: LG Ultragear 32GP83B/Lenovo L24Q-30/Lenovo L24Q-30 // Glorious GMMK TKL // Corsair Harpoon Wireless // Corsair H70 Gaming Headset

 

Wife's System: i9-9900K Stock // Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi // Gigabyte Z390M Gaming // 32GB (4x8) Corsair Vengeance LED DDR4 3200 // ASUS KO RTX 3070 // Cooler Master Master Box NR400 ODD // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w // 1TB ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro/1TB Samsung 860 EVO/4TB Western Digital HDD // Displays: LG Ultragear 27GL83A-B/AOC AGON AG241QX/ASUS VG248QE // Corsair K68 Mechanical Keyboard // Corsair Harpoon Wireless // LG BDRW // NexStar 5.25" USB 3 Enclosure

 

TV Gamer: i7-8700K 5.0ghz All-core delidded @1.375v // Deepcool Gamerstorm Assassin III // Gigabyte Aorus Z370 Gaming 5 // 32GB (4x8) Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3200 // XFX 5700XT RAW II // Corsair 275R Airflow // Corsair 650M Vengeance 650w // Intel 660P 1TB NVME M.2 SSD/4TB Western Digital Blue // Display: 50" Westinghouse 1080p // Rii Wireless Mini Keyboard w/Touchpad/Xbox One Controllers

 

TV Gamer 2: Intel i3-10100 // ASRock H410M-HDV/M.2 // 16GB (2x8) DDR4 T-Force Vulcan 2666 // XFX RX 580 8GB XXX Edition // Rosewill FBM-X2 // Gigabyte P750GM // 480GB PNY CS1311 SSD/2TB Seagate HDD // Display: LG 50" 4k TV // Rii Wireless Mini Keyboard w/Touchpad/Xbox One Controllers Donated.

 

Son's System: i7-8700 // Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi // ASRock Z370 Extreme 4 // 16GB (2x8) GeIL Potenza DDR 3200 // EVGA XC RTX 3060 // Corsair 275R Airflow // EVGA Supernova G5 650W Gold // 525GB Crucial MX300/1TB WD SN550 // Display: ACER Nitro VG240Y PBiip / Dell P2417H // Corsair K60 Pro SE // Logitech G203

 

Daughter's System: i5-9400 // Cooler Master i71c // MSI H310M Pro VDH-Plus // 8GB (2x4) Leven DDR4 2666 (2400) // Zotac GTX 1060 3GB Mini // DarkFlash Micro ATX White // Corsair CX550 // 480GB PNY CS1311 SSD/2TB Seagate HDD // Display: ASUS VG245H // Redragon TKL Mechanic Keyboard + Mouse

 

Ryzen 5 1600 // Gigabyte B450 Aorus M Retired.

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43 minutes ago, LIGISTX said:

I have used Arctic silver 5 for most of my PC using years, now I use kryonaut as its "a little better". Realistically, any paste will be fine for a very, very long time. 2 years is nothing to even consider worrying about. Most PC's I have built (over 20) have never had the CPU heatsink taken back off, some are 10+ years old and working fine.

 

47 minutes ago, The_russian said:

Most quality thermal pastes should last at least 2 years, just don’t go with a cheap Chinese knockoff. If you are really concerned about longevity and don’t mind the slight decrease in thermal performance, it could be worth it to look into thermal pads instead of thermal paste.

 

Thank you! 

Before researching, I bought a very cheap HY810, its not a knock-off, but it is a chinese thermal paste. The reason for it is that all I could find about it was about performance, and it performed well. Also I could throw in my purchase over US$30 to get free shipping and it was pretty cheap. 


I'm with stock thermal paste on a Ryzen 2700X for about a year and a half, getting at most 65c while gaming (even tho it reaches 85c on Aida64). I'm just worried that I might get a better performance with this cheap one for the first couple of months and then start to feel worse after that than what I have right now.


Should be worth to try it or it should degrade pretty best and I should just get a better one?

In that case I'll look into a Kryonaut, Arctic Silver 5 or an original MX-4. Thermal pads looks nice as well, I'll do some research about it!

Thanks a lot again for all the replies! I'll follow the discussion.

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It won't magically just die one day because it gets hot. Even if it did overheat, it would throttle and give you some indication of problems. And then at that point you can reexamine your paste or cooler.

 

I would not really worry about it, IMO.

Before you reply to my post, REFRESH. 99.99% chance I edited my post. 

 

My System: i9-10900KF 5.1-5.3ghz @ 1.365v // Corsair iCUE H150i Elite Capellix // Gigabyte Z590 Aorus Elite AX // 32GB (4x8) Crucial Ballistix Elite DDR4 4000/CL18 // ASUS RTX 3080 TUF OC // Corsair 5000D Airflow // Corsair SP120 RGB Pro x7 // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w //1TB ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro/1TB Samsung 860 EVO/2TB Seagate 7200RPM Hard Drive // Displays: LG Ultragear 32GP83B/Lenovo L24Q-30/Lenovo L24Q-30 // Glorious GMMK TKL // Corsair Harpoon Wireless // Corsair H70 Gaming Headset

 

Wife's System: i9-9900K Stock // Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi // Gigabyte Z390M Gaming // 32GB (4x8) Corsair Vengeance LED DDR4 3200 // ASUS KO RTX 3070 // Cooler Master Master Box NR400 ODD // Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850w // 1TB ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro/1TB Samsung 860 EVO/4TB Western Digital HDD // Displays: LG Ultragear 27GL83A-B/AOC AGON AG241QX/ASUS VG248QE // Corsair K68 Mechanical Keyboard // Corsair Harpoon Wireless // LG BDRW // NexStar 5.25" USB 3 Enclosure

 

TV Gamer: i7-8700K 5.0ghz All-core delidded @1.375v // Deepcool Gamerstorm Assassin III // Gigabyte Aorus Z370 Gaming 5 // 32GB (4x8) Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3200 // XFX 5700XT RAW II // Corsair 275R Airflow // Corsair 650M Vengeance 650w // Intel 660P 1TB NVME M.2 SSD/4TB Western Digital Blue // Display: 50" Westinghouse 1080p // Rii Wireless Mini Keyboard w/Touchpad/Xbox One Controllers

 

TV Gamer 2: Intel i3-10100 // ASRock H410M-HDV/M.2 // 16GB (2x8) DDR4 T-Force Vulcan 2666 // XFX RX 580 8GB XXX Edition // Rosewill FBM-X2 // Gigabyte P750GM // 480GB PNY CS1311 SSD/2TB Seagate HDD // Display: LG 50" 4k TV // Rii Wireless Mini Keyboard w/Touchpad/Xbox One Controllers Donated.

 

Son's System: i7-8700 // Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi // ASRock Z370 Extreme 4 // 16GB (2x8) GeIL Potenza DDR 3200 // EVGA XC RTX 3060 // Corsair 275R Airflow // EVGA Supernova G5 650W Gold // 525GB Crucial MX300/1TB WD SN550 // Display: ACER Nitro VG240Y PBiip / Dell P2417H // Corsair K60 Pro SE // Logitech G203

 

Daughter's System: i5-9400 // Cooler Master i71c // MSI H310M Pro VDH-Plus // 8GB (2x4) Leven DDR4 2666 (2400) // Zotac GTX 1060 3GB Mini // DarkFlash Micro ATX White // Corsair CX550 // 480GB PNY CS1311 SSD/2TB Seagate HDD // Display: ASUS VG245H // Redragon TKL Mechanic Keyboard + Mouse

 

Ryzen 5 1600 // Gigabyte B450 Aorus M Retired.

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48 minutes ago, takk said:

 

 

Thank you! 

Before researching, I bought a very cheap HY810, its not a knock-off, but it is a chinese thermal paste. The reason for it is that all I could find about it was about performance, and it performed well. Also I could throw in my purchase over US$30 to get free shipping and it was pretty cheap. 


I'm with stock thermal paste on a Ryzen 2700X for about a year and a half, getting at most 65c while gaming (even tho it reaches 85c on Aida64). I'm just worried that I might get a better performance with this cheap one for the first couple of months and then start to feel worse after that than what I have right now.


Should be worth to try it or it should degrade pretty best and I should just get a better one?

In that case I'll look into a Kryonaut, Arctic Silver 5 or an original MX-4. Thermal pads looks nice as well, I'll do some research about it!

Thanks a lot again for all the replies! I'll follow the discussion.

I would just use the stock paste on a stock cooler. They actually use pretty good stuff... Just go with that. AMD expects the CPU to last 10 years no problem, so just let it be :)

Rig: i7 10700k @ 5.1Ghz, 4.8 Ring - - Z490 Vision G - - EVGA RTX 2080 XC Ultra @ 2025Mhz - - 4x8GB Vengeance Pro 3000Mhz 15-17-17-34 @ 3500MHz 16-19-19-38 - - Samsung 950 Pro 512 NVMe Boot + Main Programs - - Samsung 830 Pro 256 RAID 0 Lightroom + Photo work - - WD Blue 1 TB SSD for Games - - Corsair RM850x - - Sound BlasterX EA-5 - - EK Supremacy Evo - - XT45 X-Flow 420 + UT60 280 rads - - EK Full Cover GPU Block - - EK XRES RGB PWM - - Fractal Define S2 - - Acer Predator X34 -- Logitech G502 - - Logitech G710+ - - Logitech Z5500 - - Steel Series QcK XXL

 

Headphones/amp/dac: Schiit Lyr 3 - - Fostex TR-X00 - - Sennheiser HD 6xx

 

Homelab/ Media Server: ESXi 6.5 - - 250 GB SSD for VM's/ESXi boot - - FreeNAS - - HPE Proliant ML10 Gen 9 backbone - - i3 6100 - - 28 GB ECC - - 10x4 TB WD Red RAID Z2 - - 10TB WD Red for expendable data - - Corsair 750D - - Corsair RM650i - - Dell H310 6Gbps SAS HBA - - Intel RES2SC240 SAS Expander

 

White Lightning (original full watercooled build) - Homelab / Media Server - The Blue Beast (my car and other expensive hobby...) - iPhone Xs - 2018 MacBook Air

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2 hours ago, Samfisher said:

Most good ones last way more than 2 years.  Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut/Hydronaut is pretty good.  They are non-curing and non-conductive and are at the top of the charts in terms of thermal performance too.

Thank you a lot! One last question, would you consider the OCX by Gelid 1g a "good one"?

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2 minutes ago, takk said:

Thank you a lot! One last question, would you consider the OCX by Gelid 1g a "good one"?

Gelid makes pretty good pastes as well, although I don't think they are marketed nearly as well as their competitors.  It's been years and years since I saw that brand on a thermal paste chart, mostly because they're not as popular as they were back then when everyone was replacing their stock GPU coolers for something from Gelid.  Not too sure specifically on the OCX however.

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4 minutes ago, takk said:

.

For performance it's kryonaut hands down, for longevity mx4 lasts longer, if you don't wanna repaste at all, get carbonaut, but it's 5-8C hotter than good paste. Those are just the stuff that i've used, along with AS5 (no reason to use it over MX4 now)

5950x 1.32v 5.05 4.55 82C 185w (still testing, likely not stable) R20 12k ll drp4 ll x570 dark hero ll gskill 4x8gb 3666 14-14-14-32-320-28-2T (zen doesn't like timings as much) 1.49v 45C 1.15v soc ll evga 1080ti hybrid (waiting on next gen) ll samsung 970 500gb nvme os ll sandisk 4tb ssd ll all nf12/14 fans ll tt gt10 case ll evga g2 1300w ll w10 pro ll 34GN850B ll x27 ll PA272w

 

9900k 1.36v 5.1avx 4.9ring 85C 185w (daily) 1.02v 4.3ghz 80w 50C R20 temps score=5450 ll D15 ll Z390 taichi ult 1.60 bios ll gskill 4x8gb 14-14-14-32-280-24 ddr3733  bdie 1.49v 45C 1.22sa/1.18 io  ll EVGA 2080 ti XC 1995//7600 325w 69C stock voltage (bad ocer) ll  8x nf12/14 fans 2x samsung 860 evo 500gb raid 0 ll 500gb nvme 970 evo ll Corsair graphite 780T ll EVGA P2 1200w ll Windows 10 Pro ll NEC PA242w (movie, work mon) 1080p 60hzll Predator X27 4k144 hdr (using at 4:4:4 98 fan is dying)

 

 

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2 hours ago, Mister Woof said:

Going on three years on my application of conductonaut, too.

The problem is liquid metal is indium and gallium. gallium Oxidizes easily and gallium oxide is nasty stuff.   Leaving it on for three years doesn’t mean it hasn’t done damage.  Perhaps your application kept all the oxygen out somehow.  Probably didn’t though.


https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gallium

Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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5 hours ago, Bombastinator said:

The problem is liquid metal is indium and gallium. gallium Oxidizes easily and gallium oxide is nasty stuff.   Leaving it on for three years doesn’t mean it hasn’t done damage.  Perhaps your application kept all the oxygen out somehow.  Probably didn’t though.


https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gallium

Maybe that will finally be a reason to upgrade from this thing.

 

Performance on new CPUs certainly hasn't.

 

In all seriousness, most of the videos I've seen of long-term LM applications shows some corrosion of the IHS, but the die remains shiny and unchanged.

 

So at worst it means over time a new IHS might be needed if transfer suffers from the corrosion. Otherwise, back to to point 1. Maybe I'll get an upgrade finally.

 

Given all the new CPUs from both manufacturers are soldered now, and likely future iterations will be less successful to overclock, this is mostly a one time deal for me anyway. Very unlikely I'll ever delid anything ever again.

Before you reply to my post, REFRESH. 99.99% chance I edited my post. 

 

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1 hour ago, Mister Woof said:

Maybe that will finally be a reason to upgrade from this thing.

 

Performance on new CPUs certainly hasn't.

 

In all seriousness, most of the videos I've seen of long-term LM applications shows some corrosion of the IHS, but the die remains shiny and unchanged.

 

So at worst it means over time a new IHS might be needed if transfer suffers from the corrosion. Otherwise, back to to point 1. Maybe I'll get an upgrade finally.

 

Given all the new CPUs from both manufacturers are soldered now, and likely future iterations will be less successful to overclock, this is mostly a one time deal for me anyway. Very unlikely I'll ever delid anything ever again.

Gallium only corrodes some substances iirc. Silicon apparently isn’t one of them.  

Life is like a bowl of chocolates: there are all these little crinkly paper cups everywhere.

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