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[EOL] PSU Tier List rev. 14.8

LukeSavenije
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For help choosing a power supply please Create a New Thread asking for assistance including your budget and system hardware to receive the best answers relevant to your specific needs.

21 minutes ago, aluy said:

Off of eye is this PSU ok and safe for a 2700x/580 build? I got a discount so it was a good pick out of other similar options https://pcpartpicker.com/product/rwfhP6/thermaltake-smart-bx1-rgb-550-w-80-bronze-certified-atx-power-supply-ps-spr-0550nhfabu-1

At a glance, looking at the website for that unit; it seems to be a group-regulated unit with limited protections and based on that alone, it will probably fall in Tier D or D+ at best.

 

You'll probably be ok for the most part, but I wouldn't run anything more power-hungry on it. So in the future if you decide to upgrade to a 3900X and/or a GPU that draws more than 200-250w+, for example, then I would recommend swapping this out for something better quality.

 

 

My Systems:

Main - Work + Gaming:

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Woodland Raven: Ryzen 2700X // AMD Wraith RGB // Asus Prime X570-P // G.Skill 2x 8GB 3600MHz DDR4 // Radeon RX Vega 56 // Crucial P1 NVMe 1TB M.2 SSD // Deepcool DQ650-M // chassis build in progress // Windows 10 // Thrustmaster TMX + G27 pedals & shifter

F@H Rig:

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FX-8350 // Deepcool Neptwin // MSI 970 Gaming // AData 2x 4GB 1600 DDR3 // 2x Gigabyte RX-570 4G's // Samsung 840 120GB SSD // Cooler Master V650 // Windows 10

 

HTPC:

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SNES PC (HTPC): i3-4150 @3.5 // Gigabyte GA-H87N-Wifi // G.Skill 2x 4GB DDR3 1600 // Asus Dual GTX 1050Ti 4GB OC // AData SP600 128GB SSD // Pico 160XT PSU // Custom SNES Enclosure // 55" LG LED 1080p TV  // Logitech wireless touchpad-keyboard // Windows 10 // Build Log

Laptops:

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MY DAILY: Lenovo ThinkPad T410 // 14" 1440x900 // i5-540M 2.5GHz Dual-Core HT // Intel HD iGPU + Quadro NVS 3100M 512MB dGPU // 2x4GB DDR3L 1066 // Mushkin Triactor 480GB SSD // Windows 10

 

WIFE'S: Dell Latitude E5450 // 14" 1366x768 // i5-5300U 2.3GHz Dual-Core HT // Intel HD5500 // 2x4GB RAM DDR3L 1600 // 500GB 7200 HDD // Linux Mint 19.3 Cinnamon

 

EXPERIMENTAL: Pinebook // 11.6" 1080p // Manjaro KDE (ARM)

NAS:

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Home NAS: Pentium G4400 @3.3 // Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 // 2x 4GB DDR4 2400 // Intel HD Graphics // Kingston A400 120GB SSD // 3x Seagate Barracuda 2TB 7200 HDDs in RAID-Z // Cooler Master Silent Pro M 1000w PSU // Antec Performance Plus 1080AMG // FreeNAS OS

 

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Are there any community maintained list of PSUs with all the specs like topology, OEM, modifications from base OEM design etc. ?

Tag or quote me so i see your reply

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2 minutes ago, Juular said:

Are there any community maintained list of PSUs with all the specs like topology, OEM, modifications from base OEM design etc. ?

i have a bit of it (mainly the oem) somewhere in my test posts, but i couldn't keep myself maintaining it while i do this, hence i moved it

 

http://www.orionpsudb.com/ from @OrionFOTL and http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/PSUReviewDatabase.html are a thing though

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I'm planning to build a new pc in a few weeks and I'm wondering if I could stick to my 6-year old PSU to save a bit of cash but I'm not sure if that's a good idea.

 

It is an Antec HCP-850 Gold which has been active for anywhere around 12-24 hours for the past 6 years. I never used it to its full capacity because I was uninformed way before (i might have a 350-450 W system at most).

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14 hours ago, beast said:

@Princess Luna Did I made a good choice with the SF Leadex II Gold 650w?

 

I have one and its pretty solid

i5 2400 | ASUS RTX 4090 TUF OC | Seasonic 1200W Prime Gold | WD Green 120gb | WD Blue 1tb | some ram | a random case

 

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Ooo, saw this list, and I say some of the PSU seems to be 'downgraded'. Oh well.

 

Found out my PSU is on Tier B+, The Gigabyte GH series. Hmm, I always thought Thermaltake ToughPower Grand RGB performs better.

 

@LukeSavenije

I don't know much about PSU, so maybe if you can include what each of this abbreviation such as OTP means? Or maybe you can include a video explaining the PSU? I do appreciate if there is some information/guide where good explanation are given.

I have ASD (Autism Spectrum Disorder). More info: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autism_spectrum

 

I apologies if my comments or post offends you in any way, or if my rage got a little too far. I'll try my best to make my post as non-offensive as much as possible.

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Just now, Chiyawa said:

I don't know much about PSU, so maybe if you can include what each of this abbreviation such as OTP means?

Click on the 2nd spoiler button at the top of the main-post.  Right under where it says " Information about commonly mentioned terms:"
Luke already has that covered yo.

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35 minutes ago, LogicWeasel said:

Click on the 2nd spoiler button at the top of the main-post.  Right under where it says " Information about commonly mentioned terms:"
Luke already has that covered yo.

Oh, so that's where the information is. Sorry, my bad.

I have ASD (Autism Spectrum Disorder). More info: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autism_spectrum

 

I apologies if my comments or post offends you in any way, or if my rage got a little too far. I'll try my best to make my post as non-offensive as much as possible.

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4 hours ago, christenlanger said:

I'm planning to build a new pc in a few weeks and I'm wondering if I could stick to my 6-year old PSU to save a bit of cash but I'm not sure if that's a good idea.

 

It is an Antec HCP-850 Gold which has been active for anywhere around 12-24 hours for the past 6 years. I never used it to its full capacity because I was uninformed way before (i might have a 350-450 W system at most).

Looks like it's Delta OEM with Full-bridge LLC topology and 4 rails but it has no C6\C7 support and no UVP protection so i'm not sure. There's no crossload tests of it that i can find of it since it wasn't a thing yet so it may emit a bit too high ripple with modern systems, or may not. I'd wait a word from someone else on this thread.

Tag or quote me so i see your reply

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3 hours ago, Juular said:

but it has no C6\C7 support and no UVP protection

i think you're looking at the new hcp, which is just tiered down for the focus issues

 

it's likely the 2010 high current pro gold, which is delta as you said, and does just fine in voltage

https://www.techpowerup.com/review/antec-hcp-750w/5.html

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5 hours ago, LukeSavenije said:

i think you're looking at the new hcp, which is just tiered down for the focus issues

 

it's likely the 2010 high current pro gold, which is delta as you said, and does just fine in voltage

https://www.techpowerup.com/review/antec-hcp-750w/5.html

That would be the model, only with 850 watts. So I guess this means it will be fine for now? I'm not entirely familiar with how PSU's deteriorate with age.

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30 minutes ago, christenlanger said:

That would be the model, only with 850 watts. So I guess this means it will be fine for now? I'm not entirely familiar with how PSU's deteriorate with age.

how old is yours now?

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5 minutes ago, LukeSavenije said:

how old is yours now?

About 6 years now. It's been running anywhere from 12-24 hours everyday.

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5 minutes ago, christenlanger said:

About 6 years now. It's been running anywhere from 12-24 hours everyday.

well, then you have a year of warranty left on it... I'd personally say another year at the very least, 3 at best, but of course it's hard to say when exactly it'll start to degrade because of the many factors that come into play

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Hey guys, there's thread and the guy there are puzzled with the same thing as me. We both have Corsair RMx PSUs and when you switch it off (or shut-down PC via OS) it emits a click like there's relay in there shutting off some circuit, i guess there might be one in fact but i don't see it on the PCB (but my knowledge in electronic parts are quite limited) and i don't think it's very common for it to be in modern PSUs (if any). So what's that ?

Edit: same thing when it's switched on (again, both by a switch or by powering up a PC from idle state) so i'm positive it's not a HDD heads parking.

Tag or quote me so i see your reply

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6 hours ago, Juular said:

it emits a click like there's relay in there shutting off some circuit, i guess there might be one in fact but i don't see it on the PCB (but my knowledge in electronic parts are quite limited) and i don't think it's very common for it to be in modern PSUs (if any).

Most of higher end PSUs have an electromechanical relay nearby the NTC thermistor, which bypasses it from the bulk capacitors when they charge on startup.

The thermistor limits inrush current to the capacitors during startup, but isn't useful once they're charged, so the relay disconnects it for the remainder of the PSU's operation.

When shutting down, the same relay reconnects the NTC thermistor back, so it can limit inrush current again during another startup.

 

This practice has been in place for a really long time, as early as 80+ Gold PSUs appeared, but maybe even earlier. It's not present in all high-efficiency power supplies even today though, some units don't have the relay. Which Corsair do you have, RMx or the shorter and newer RMx 2018?

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2 minutes ago, OrionFOTL said:

Most of higher end PSUs have an electromechanical relay nearby the NTC thermistor, which bypasses it from the bulk capacitors when they charge on startup.

The thermistor limits inrush current to the capacitors during startup, but isn't useful once they're charged, so the relay disconnects it for the remainder of the PSU's operation.

When shutting down, the same relay reconnects the NTC thermistor back, so it can limit inrush current again during another startup.

 

This practice has been in place for a really long time, as early as 80+ Gold PSUs appeared, but maybe even earlier. It's not present in all high-efficiency power supplies even today though, some units don't have the relay. Which Corsair do you have, RMx or the shorter and newer RMx 2018?

Okay, good to know, thanks. I have 2018 revision (white\black label).

Tag or quote me so i see your reply

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8 minutes ago, Juular said:

I have 2018 revision (white\black label).

Then the relay is in the bottom right here, next to the PFC coil:

image.png.d62c12af5683e76538a6313e5ef8b46c.png

 

(Both the original RMx and the 2018 RMx have the same identical black/white labels, by the way)

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15 minutes ago, OrionFOTL said:

Then the relay is in the bottom right here, next to the PFC coil:

Oh, i thought it's a choke ...

15 minutes ago, OrionFOTL said:

(Both the original RMx and the 2018 RMx have the same identical black/white labels, by the way)

Hmm. How to differentiate them then ? It was manufactured in 2017 and model number is CP-9020179, so it looks like model number corresponds to 2018 model but it's manufactured prior to that ... Or it's rather 2017 revision, not 2018 in fact ?

Tag or quote me so i see your reply

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7 hours ago, Juular said:

Hey guys, there's thread and the guy there are puzzled with the same thing as me. We both have Corsair RMx PSUs and when you switch it off (or shut-down PC via OS) it emits a click like there's relay in there shutting off some circuit, i guess there might be one in fact but i don't see it on the PCB (but my knowledge in electronic parts are quite limited) and i don't think it's very common for it to be in modern PSUs (if any). So what's that ?

Edit: same thing when it's switched on (again, both by a switch or by powering up a PC from idle state) so i'm positive it's not a HDD heads parking.

My Cooler Master V650 makes the same click on power-on and shut-down.

My Systems:

Main - Work + Gaming:

Spoiler

Woodland Raven: Ryzen 2700X // AMD Wraith RGB // Asus Prime X570-P // G.Skill 2x 8GB 3600MHz DDR4 // Radeon RX Vega 56 // Crucial P1 NVMe 1TB M.2 SSD // Deepcool DQ650-M // chassis build in progress // Windows 10 // Thrustmaster TMX + G27 pedals & shifter

F@H Rig:

Spoiler

FX-8350 // Deepcool Neptwin // MSI 970 Gaming // AData 2x 4GB 1600 DDR3 // 2x Gigabyte RX-570 4G's // Samsung 840 120GB SSD // Cooler Master V650 // Windows 10

 

HTPC:

Spoiler

SNES PC (HTPC): i3-4150 @3.5 // Gigabyte GA-H87N-Wifi // G.Skill 2x 4GB DDR3 1600 // Asus Dual GTX 1050Ti 4GB OC // AData SP600 128GB SSD // Pico 160XT PSU // Custom SNES Enclosure // 55" LG LED 1080p TV  // Logitech wireless touchpad-keyboard // Windows 10 // Build Log

Laptops:

Spoiler

MY DAILY: Lenovo ThinkPad T410 // 14" 1440x900 // i5-540M 2.5GHz Dual-Core HT // Intel HD iGPU + Quadro NVS 3100M 512MB dGPU // 2x4GB DDR3L 1066 // Mushkin Triactor 480GB SSD // Windows 10

 

WIFE'S: Dell Latitude E5450 // 14" 1366x768 // i5-5300U 2.3GHz Dual-Core HT // Intel HD5500 // 2x4GB RAM DDR3L 1600 // 500GB 7200 HDD // Linux Mint 19.3 Cinnamon

 

EXPERIMENTAL: Pinebook // 11.6" 1080p // Manjaro KDE (ARM)

NAS:

Spoiler

Home NAS: Pentium G4400 @3.3 // Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 // 2x 4GB DDR4 2400 // Intel HD Graphics // Kingston A400 120GB SSD // 3x Seagate Barracuda 2TB 7200 HDDs in RAID-Z // Cooler Master Silent Pro M 1000w PSU // Antec Performance Plus 1080AMG // FreeNAS OS

 

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24 minutes ago, Juular said:

Hmm. How to differentiate them then ? It was manufactured in 2017 and model number is CP-9020179, so it looks like model number corresponds to 2018 model but it's manufactured prior to that ... Or it's rather 2017 revision, not 2018 in fact ?

The difference is the new 750W and 850W versions are 160mm in length, while the original ones are 180mm. (Except the original 550W and 650W, because those were always 160mm too)

The new 750W also has two EPS connectors.

I think you can also see the difference by looking at model numbers, the original RMx units were RPS0014 / CP-9020090 for RM550x, and RPS0015 / CP-9020091, RPS0016 / CP-9020092, RPS0017 / CP-9020093 and RPS0018 / CP-9020094 for the rest, so if your RMx has higher numbers than those then it's probably the refreshed version.

 

31 minutes ago, Juular said:

Or it's rather 2017 revision, not 2018 in fact ?

It might have been manufactured in 2017, but they appeared on the market in 2018.

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Sorry to ask this, but why are the EVGA G3 series rated D+ here, while two other tier lists have them at the 2nd highest tier ?

I'm curious cuz i'm interested in the EVGA G3 650w model.

Thank you!

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1 minute ago, vokn_ said:

Sorry to ask this, but why are the EVGA G3 series rated D+ here, while two other tier lists have them at the 2nd highest tier ?

I'm curious cuz i'm interested in the EVGA G3 650w model.

Thank you!

mainly this

 

Quote

We didn't get any OCP results because our unit died during the OPP test, meaning either that this particular sample had a problem or OPP is set very high. Note that we conduct these tests at normal ambient temperatures, below 30°C.

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/evga-supernova-1000-g3-psu,4941-6.html

 

Quote

OTP is set very high in our opinion, since we had to apply a huge thermal load on the secondary side to trigger it. The bulk cap's external casing nearly melted during our OTP evaluation.

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/evga-supernova-850-g3-psu,4930-6.html

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is it worth buying the rmx for the 10y warranty or should i buy a whisper m with 7y warranty?

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