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[EOL] PSU Tier List rev. 14.8

LukeSavenije
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For help choosing a power supply please Create a New Thread asking for assistance including your budget and system hardware to receive the best answers relevant to your specific needs.

A newer Rosewill model that still seems to lack in-depth review is the LEPTON series (notably I think the only Rosewill not ranked in the list now).  That said, I'm curious where it might fall tier-wise based on the limited info we do have (discussion on jGuru forums note that it's the Andyson GX platform by all details they can see):  http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showthread.php?16219-Rosewill-LEPTON-Gold-on-sale-Any-good

 

Link to the PSU I'm talking about:  

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Pvx2FT/rosewill-lepton-500-w-80-gold-certified-semi-modular-atx-power-supply-lepton-500

If it turns out to be as-hinted and the GX is a half-decent PSU, it seems like an ok competitor to the EVGA GD-series for cheaper 80+ Gold units.

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13 minutes ago, LogicWeasel said:

Is the Thermaltake Smart M considered part of this listing for Tier D?
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/HTLypg  It might appear they just tack-on the M to mean it's semi-modular?

The Thermaltake Smart M series entry has been made, it has been decided to Tier D as well, while in some aspects the unit showed to be worthy of Tier C like still managing to be within *acceptable* numbers for voltage regulation like:

Spoiler

image.png.431f0c9860f9d1fbb6308c61abefa690.pngimage.png.0e58b2b71b38f5cb66cba40f0df834e2.png

It has to be noted that the whole is constructed quite cheaply and just from judging the look of it you kinda doubt it would be a reliable '750W' source and this thing is really only advisable for much lower demand. This has been made clear by the proper reviews:

Spoiler
Quote

the supervisor IC is soldered directly to the main PCB in the secondary side area and its model number is WT7502 - Techpowerup

 

image.thumb.png.fbc675001a2193439b48f4922f800ff6.png

 

And then to further solidify why this is unsafe, you have an unit that is a bit more susceptible to a failure while also lacking a very important safety feature known as UVP on it's 12v rail, reserving it only to the 5v and 3.3v.

 

This is the sort of thing that increases the likelyhood of your PSU ever killing a video card for example.

 

I hope this has been clarifying, all sources used will be added on OP as well if you'd like to check them out.

 

Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700K @5ghz |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock Pro 4 |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490UD ATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: RX 6900XT Sapphire Nitro+ |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

Luna, the temporary Desktop:

CPU: AMD R9 7950XT  |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Aorus Master |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
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3 minutes ago, Princess Luna said:

The Thermaltake Smart M series entry has been made, it has been decided to Tier D as well

Yeah that's informative and I did not suspect the unit was good, I just wanted to confirm that's what Luke meant when he just says "Smart 80+"  as that label says to me "a Thermaltake Smart that's 80+ White" .  If that label should IMPLY that it includes the "Smart M" series, then it should be added to make that more obvious.

 

The way I come across this stuff is I like to see the rank of some PSUs on PCPartPicker and when I sorted by Modular units under $100 it came up, just wanted to be sure it was ranked and didn't slip through the cracks.  I like to be able to quickly take a PSU model, and Ctrl + F on this Tier list page, to have an idea if the unit is cheap crap, or a good deal and worth recommending sometimes.

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Just now, LogicWeasel said:

snip

yeah, it wasn't really, hence i did a quick dive with luna, found the protection ic and saw it didn't have 12v uvp

 

hence this will now be it's placement

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2 minutes ago, LukeSavenije said:

yeah, it wasn't really, hence i did a quick dive with luna, found the protection ic and saw it didn't have 12v uvp

 

hence this will now be it's placement

Oh ok, so I did find a unit that wasn't placed yet, that's neat.  Thanks to both of you for the quick turnaround on that.  The tier list is now more complete, with another unit added to the "do not buy" list haha.

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On 11/24/2019 at 5:08 AM, komi1997 said:

GOOD PSU can be only a unit ranked B+ and above, B ones are also decent, if you are on a tight budget get lower capacity SSD or something, don't cheap out on PSU and get your motherboards VRM section and graphics card ruined by high ripple, I'm running Pure Power 11 400W on RX570, right now this PSU in my country costs 50% of RX570 price, you must know what to cheap on and what not when building a PC

Just remember that the list is somewhat based off of opinion, in theory a PSU can meet a higher tier can also be a piece of junk as they can do good in testing when they are new but, one year later the manufacture can change a few things to save money and sacrifice the quality of certain parts, so the product may still have the same part#, features and looks but may not last as long or develop problems over time. 

Gaming With a 4:3 CRT

System specs below

 

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5700X with a Noctua NH-U9S cooler 
Motherboard: Gigabyte B450 Aorus M (Because it was cheap)
RAM: 32GB (4 x 8GB) Corsair Vengance LPX 3200Mhz CL16
GPU: EVGA GTX 980 Ti SC Blower Card
HDD: 7200RPM TOSHIBA DT01ACA100 1TB, External HDD: 5400RPM 2TB WD My Passport
SSD: 1tb Samsung 970 evo m.2 nvme
PSU: Corsair CX650M
Displays: ViewSonic VA2012WB LCD 1680x1050p @ 75Hz
Gateway VX920 CRT: 1920x1440@65Hz, 1600x1200@75Hz, 1200x900@100Hz, 960x720@125Hz
Gateway VX900 CRT: 1920x1440@64Hz, 1600x1200@75Hz, 1200x900@100Hz, 960x720@120Hz (Can be pushed to 175Hz)
 
Keyboard: Thermaltake eSPORTS MEKA PRO with Cherry MX Red switches
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11 hours ago, Juular said:
14 hours ago, MadAnt250 said:

I can now say, in my opinion  the Evga W1 PSUs are a GOOD PSU for the PRICE if you are on a tight budget.

For maybe 30$ yeah, kinda. For 45$ you could get Corsair CX (with -20$ rebate but still).

The evga 430 W1 is $25, the 500 W1 is $40-45 and the 600 W1 is $55-60. If you find a better deal on something better because of a sale or rebate then go for that.

Gaming With a 4:3 CRT

System specs below

 

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5700X with a Noctua NH-U9S cooler 
Motherboard: Gigabyte B450 Aorus M (Because it was cheap)
RAM: 32GB (4 x 8GB) Corsair Vengance LPX 3200Mhz CL16
GPU: EVGA GTX 980 Ti SC Blower Card
HDD: 7200RPM TOSHIBA DT01ACA100 1TB, External HDD: 5400RPM 2TB WD My Passport
SSD: 1tb Samsung 970 evo m.2 nvme
PSU: Corsair CX650M
Displays: ViewSonic VA2012WB LCD 1680x1050p @ 75Hz
Gateway VX920 CRT: 1920x1440@65Hz, 1600x1200@75Hz, 1200x900@100Hz, 960x720@125Hz
Gateway VX900 CRT: 1920x1440@64Hz, 1600x1200@75Hz, 1200x900@100Hz, 960x720@120Hz (Can be pushed to 175Hz)
 
Keyboard: Thermaltake eSPORTS MEKA PRO with Cherry MX Red switches
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30 minutes ago, LogicWeasel said:

Thanks to both of you for the quick turnaround on that. 

and we thank you for making me aware of another confusingly named unit

 

19 minutes ago, antoine112 said:

Yes, I live in france. What's the difference between RMx & RM - RM is from 2019?

simply said

rmx is with higher end components and imo better built

rm is slightly downgraded, but meets atx 2.52 ultra low loads

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1 minute ago, LukeSavenije said:

i personally wouldn't even consider buying a unit without full uvp today...

Pretty much personal preference, just like how I prefer using a CRT monitor for modern PC games. 

Gaming With a 4:3 CRT

System specs below

 

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5700X with a Noctua NH-U9S cooler 
Motherboard: Gigabyte B450 Aorus M (Because it was cheap)
RAM: 32GB (4 x 8GB) Corsair Vengance LPX 3200Mhz CL16
GPU: EVGA GTX 980 Ti SC Blower Card
HDD: 7200RPM TOSHIBA DT01ACA100 1TB, External HDD: 5400RPM 2TB WD My Passport
SSD: 1tb Samsung 970 evo m.2 nvme
PSU: Corsair CX650M
Displays: ViewSonic VA2012WB LCD 1680x1050p @ 75Hz
Gateway VX920 CRT: 1920x1440@65Hz, 1600x1200@75Hz, 1200x900@100Hz, 960x720@125Hz
Gateway VX900 CRT: 1920x1440@64Hz, 1600x1200@75Hz, 1200x900@100Hz, 960x720@120Hz (Can be pushed to 175Hz)
 
Keyboard: Thermaltake eSPORTS MEKA PRO with Cherry MX Red switches
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3 minutes ago, OnionFromOrion said:

Where would the Enhance 7660B fit in this? It seems to recommended for flex PSU SFF builds. It has OPP, OVP, OCP, OTP, UVP, SCP, no load protection, active PFC, 80plus plat according to: http://www.enhance.com.tw/new/enp7600-platinum-400w-600w/ 

do you have it there on retail? i haven't seen enhance themselves selling anything directly

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1 minute ago, MadAnt250 said:

Pretty much personal preference, just like how I prefer using a CRT monitor for modern PC games. 

eh, a bit less with psus here i'd say....

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1 minute ago, LukeSavenije said:

do you have it there on retail? i haven't seen enhance themselves selling anything directly

Don't have one myself, but they can be imported from taobao in China. Also a few sellers on Ebay. 

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Just now, OnionFromOrion said:

Don't have one myself, but they can be imported from taobao in China. Also a few sellers on Ebay. 

interesting... i'll look into what i can find later

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11 minutes ago, MadAnt250 said:

Pretty much personal preference, just like how I prefer using a CRT monitor for modern PC games. 

No.  Whether or not a PSU is more safe is not the same as a "personal preference" that is a thing that is objectively just better.  This is like saying wearing a seatbelt in a car is a personal preference, just like how a driver prefers using a stick-shift.  Except that when you're in a crash one "personal preference" makes a pretty big difference and one makes no difference.

 

Using a PSU with less protections increases the risk to the rest of your computer.  Making a choice to use an older monitor is not the same thing.  You're drawing false equivalence.  But you appear to be giving in to some self-bias to convince yourself it doesn't matter that you cheaped out on a power supply.

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5 minutes ago, LogicWeasel said:

No.  Whether or not a PSU is more safe is not the same as a "personal preference" that is a thing that is objectively just better.  This is like saying wearing a seatbelt in a car is a personal preference, just like how a driver prefers using a stick-shift.  Except that when you're in a crash one "personal preference" makes a pretty big difference and one makes no difference.

 

Using a PSU with less protections increases the risk to the rest of your computer.  Making a choice to use an older monitor is not the same thing.  You're drawing false equivalence.  But you appear to be giving in to some self-bias to convince yourself it doesn't matter that you cheaped out on a power supply.

No. Maybe you took that out of context, the risk of the piece of junk I defended is nothing to worry about when shopping at price point of 20-30 dollars, when the difference is good - slightly better, it comes down to what the shopper wants to spend in relation to quality, I prefer to be a little cheap so, I am ok with OK. If I were to be buying a PSU for a more high end system then I would buy a higher quality PSU with less of risk to damage the components I paid high dollar for. 

 

If a PSU did not have OVP, UVP, OCP and SCP features then of course I would not buy it.

 

Gaming With a 4:3 CRT

System specs below

 

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5700X with a Noctua NH-U9S cooler 
Motherboard: Gigabyte B450 Aorus M (Because it was cheap)
RAM: 32GB (4 x 8GB) Corsair Vengance LPX 3200Mhz CL16
GPU: EVGA GTX 980 Ti SC Blower Card
HDD: 7200RPM TOSHIBA DT01ACA100 1TB, External HDD: 5400RPM 2TB WD My Passport
SSD: 1tb Samsung 970 evo m.2 nvme
PSU: Corsair CX650M
Displays: ViewSonic VA2012WB LCD 1680x1050p @ 75Hz
Gateway VX920 CRT: 1920x1440@65Hz, 1600x1200@75Hz, 1200x900@100Hz, 960x720@125Hz
Gateway VX900 CRT: 1920x1440@64Hz, 1600x1200@75Hz, 1200x900@100Hz, 960x720@120Hz (Can be pushed to 175Hz)
 
Keyboard: Thermaltake eSPORTS MEKA PRO with Cherry MX Red switches
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5 minutes ago, MadAnt250 said:

If a PSU did not have OVP, UVP, OCP and SCP features then of course I would not buy it.

the problem is that w1 doesn't have uvp...

 

hence i don't recommend it myself, even at 30 bucks

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1 minute ago, LukeSavenije said:

the problem is that w1 doesn't have uvp...

 

hence i don't recommend it myself, even at 30 bucks

Why do I try?

 

https://www.evga.com/products/pdf/100-W1-0430-KR.pdf

 

https://www.evga.com/products/pdf/100-W1-0500-KR.pdf

 

Read in the red circle.

 

image.thumb.png.1e38bd96eed26d9c8f9b0ff3f61ba8e4.png

 

Gaming With a 4:3 CRT

System specs below

 

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5700X with a Noctua NH-U9S cooler 
Motherboard: Gigabyte B450 Aorus M (Because it was cheap)
RAM: 32GB (4 x 8GB) Corsair Vengance LPX 3200Mhz CL16
GPU: EVGA GTX 980 Ti SC Blower Card
HDD: 7200RPM TOSHIBA DT01ACA100 1TB, External HDD: 5400RPM 2TB WD My Passport
SSD: 1tb Samsung 970 evo m.2 nvme
PSU: Corsair CX650M
Displays: ViewSonic VA2012WB LCD 1680x1050p @ 75Hz
Gateway VX920 CRT: 1920x1440@65Hz, 1600x1200@75Hz, 1200x900@100Hz, 960x720@125Hz
Gateway VX900 CRT: 1920x1440@64Hz, 1600x1200@75Hz, 1200x900@100Hz, 960x720@120Hz (Can be pushed to 175Hz)
 
Keyboard: Thermaltake eSPORTS MEKA PRO with Cherry MX Red switches
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2 hours ago, MadAnt250 said:

Just remember that the list is somewhat based off of opinion and not fact, in theory a PSU can meet a higher tier can also be a piece of junk as they can do good in testing when they are new but, one year later the manufacture can change a few things to save money

That wouldnt be about opinion tho would it?

 

And there has been cases of changes. When noticed, changes are applied to the list. Sadly we dont have a crystal ball to predict this stuff. 

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2 minutes ago, MadAnt250 said:

Why do I try?

hm... looking into a disassembly i found the protection ic... this might get interesting

 

I'll let you know when we talked internally

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4 minutes ago, antoine112 said:

i still can't decide

at that point you're not even considering quality anymore, as all 3 are honestly very close to each other, even if internally different

 

look at some reviews regarding quietness (i recall SP11 being best, but didn't check), get the cheapest out of the 3

 

or heck, look what design you like most, there is not much to be lost here

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7 hours ago, MadAnt250 said:

the list is somewhat based off of opinion and not fact,

Just wanted to clarify; the list is based on opinions, based on facts. Where the opinions come into play is deciding on which facts are most important in regards to the end user (performance, design, build & component quality, and safety protections).

 

It's not based on "arbitrary" opinion.

My Systems:

Main - Work + Gaming:

Spoiler

Woodland Raven: Ryzen 2700X // AMD Wraith RGB // Asus Prime X570-P // G.Skill 2x 8GB 3600MHz DDR4 // Radeon RX Vega 56 // Crucial P1 NVMe 1TB M.2 SSD // Deepcool DQ650-M // chassis build in progress // Windows 10 // Thrustmaster TMX + G27 pedals & shifter

F@H Rig:

Spoiler

FX-8350 // Deepcool Neptwin // MSI 970 Gaming // AData 2x 4GB 1600 DDR3 // 2x Gigabyte RX-570 4G's // Samsung 840 120GB SSD // Cooler Master V650 // Windows 10

 

HTPC:

Spoiler

SNES PC (HTPC): i3-4150 @3.5 // Gigabyte GA-H87N-Wifi // G.Skill 2x 4GB DDR3 1600 // Asus Dual GTX 1050Ti 4GB OC // AData SP600 128GB SSD // Pico 160XT PSU // Custom SNES Enclosure // 55" LG LED 1080p TV  // Logitech wireless touchpad-keyboard // Windows 10 // Build Log

Laptops:

Spoiler

MY DAILY: Lenovo ThinkPad T410 // 14" 1440x900 // i5-540M 2.5GHz Dual-Core HT // Intel HD iGPU + Quadro NVS 3100M 512MB dGPU // 2x4GB DDR3L 1066 // Mushkin Triactor 480GB SSD // Windows 10

 

WIFE'S: Dell Latitude E5450 // 14" 1366x768 // i5-5300U 2.3GHz Dual-Core HT // Intel HD5500 // 2x4GB RAM DDR3L 1600 // 500GB 7200 HDD // Linux Mint 19.3 Cinnamon

 

EXPERIMENTAL: Pinebook // 11.6" 1080p // Manjaro KDE (ARM)

NAS:

Spoiler

Home NAS: Pentium G4400 @3.3 // Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 // 2x 4GB DDR4 2400 // Intel HD Graphics // Kingston A400 120GB SSD // 3x Seagate Barracuda 2TB 7200 HDDs in RAID-Z // Cooler Master Silent Pro M 1000w PSU // Antec Performance Plus 1080AMG // FreeNAS OS

 

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14 minutes ago, MEC-777 said:

Just wanted to clarify; the list is based on opinions, based on facts. Where the opinions come into play is deciding on which facts are most important in regards to the end user (performance, design, build & component quality, and safety protections).

 

It's not based on "arbitrary" opinion.

Yeah, kinda. I may have not said what I was trying to say, my B.

Gaming With a 4:3 CRT

System specs below

 

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5700X with a Noctua NH-U9S cooler 
Motherboard: Gigabyte B450 Aorus M (Because it was cheap)
RAM: 32GB (4 x 8GB) Corsair Vengance LPX 3200Mhz CL16
GPU: EVGA GTX 980 Ti SC Blower Card
HDD: 7200RPM TOSHIBA DT01ACA100 1TB, External HDD: 5400RPM 2TB WD My Passport
SSD: 1tb Samsung 970 evo m.2 nvme
PSU: Corsair CX650M
Displays: ViewSonic VA2012WB LCD 1680x1050p @ 75Hz
Gateway VX920 CRT: 1920x1440@65Hz, 1600x1200@75Hz, 1200x900@100Hz, 960x720@125Hz
Gateway VX900 CRT: 1920x1440@64Hz, 1600x1200@75Hz, 1200x900@100Hz, 960x720@120Hz (Can be pushed to 175Hz)
 
Keyboard: Thermaltake eSPORTS MEKA PRO with Cherry MX Red switches
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