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[EOL] PSU Tier List rev. 14.8

LukeSavenije
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For help choosing a power supply please Create a New Thread asking for assistance including your budget and system hardware to receive the best answers relevant to your specific needs.

4 minutes ago, TVastera said:

It does not shut down the whole system, only cuts of the GPU so I loose the picture and need to do a hard reset

 

4 minutes ago, TVastera said:

overclocked i5-8600K

Try running at stock settings

:)

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Just now, seon123 said:

Try running at stock settings

I have done that and the problem persisted.

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10 minutes ago, TVastera said:

It does not shut down the whole system, only cuts of the GPU so I loose the picture and need to do a hard reset.

Then it's highly unlikely to be a PSU problem, but instead driver or GPU instability. Revert drivers to older version, downclock the GPU, if problem persists - RMA it.

Tag or quote me so i see your reply

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10 minutes ago, Juular said:

Then it's highly unlikely to be a PSU problem, but instead driver or GPU instability. Revert drivers to older version, downclock the GPU, if problem persists - RMA it.

Couple different drivers tested already but haven't tried downclocking - Im not familiar with over/underclockin (specially with GPU, how to even start, I can't tweak it in BIOS can I?), CPU overclocking was done by that friend who I got the parts from.

 

But yeah, with these advices (and troubleshooting advice from other forums) I think I need to ask for a replacement GPU. Good to know its unlikely that the PSU is causing it!

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5 hours ago, Juular said:

That isn't clear to us either but this changes nothing, 230V only versions go to tier B, full-range versions go to tier B+. The reason for that is that full range versions are technically more robust when it comes to 230V only regions with voltage drops even though they technically don't have to support lower voltage input. Full range versions also usually rated for lower wattage using the same components or conversely, use higher rated components for the same wattage rating because for 100-110V you need components with twice power rating than for 230V input on primary side. Exact implementation of course depends more on the platform as a whole though.

So is full range input important ?

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1 hour ago, DilanDuck said:

So is full range input important ?

If you live in non 230V zone it definitely is, otherwise PSU wouldn't work at all. If you live in 220/230V zone and your mains isn't of very good quality and experiences voltage drops (which is probably true for most such zones except for very few in central EU or maybe UK, Australia i dunno) then it's important too. If your mains are stable then not really but full range PSU would still pose some advantage in terms of higher rated components which may or may not translate to increased longevity of PSU as a whole.

Tag or quote me so i see your reply

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1 hour ago, Juular said:

If you live in non 230V zone it definitely is, otherwise PSU wouldn't work at all. If you live in 220/230V zone and your mains isn't of very good quality and experiences voltage drops (which is probably true for most such zones except for very few in central EU or maybe UK, Australia i dunno) then it's important too. If your mains are stable then not really but full range PSU would still pose some advantage in terms of higher rated components which may or may not translate to increased longevity of PSU as a whole.

Thank you for the detailled explanation, I live in Belgium which is in Europe so I think I should be fine

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Id like to know if the ADATA XPG core reactor 650w gold psu is a good one, or should I get seasonic focus gx 650w gold(for 15 bucks more)?

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3 hours ago, stnix said:

or should I get seasonic focus gx 650w gold(for 15 bucks more)?

No, it doesn't worth that, get ADATA.

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21 hours ago, stnix said:

Id like to know if the ADATA XPG core reactor 650w gold psu is a good one, or should I get seasonic focus gx 650w gold(for 15 bucks more)?

Take seasonic and keep your head calm, lower price for adata doesn't come from anything even if the interior is based on seasonic platform. There is a saying - you pay twice for cheap.

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Just now, Sapphiree said:

Take seasonic and keep your head calm, lower price for adata doesn't come from anything even if the interior is based on seasonic platform.

ehm... no?

 

it's a CWT... not even anywhere close to any Seasonic unit

missing-image.svg

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5 hours ago, Sapphiree said:

Take seasonic and keep your head calm, lower price for adata doesn't come from anything even if the interior is based on seasonic platform. There is a saying - you pay twice for cheap.

You're saying that like you know smth bad about that ADATA unit we do not. It surely doesn't break performance records, but with 15$ between it and Seasonic Focus Gold (which doesn't have particularly fantastic performance either), i wouldn't say that the latter is worth it.

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6 hours ago, Sapphiree said:

Take seasonic and keep your head calm, lower price for adata doesn't come from anything even if the interior is based on seasonic platform. There is a saying - you pay twice for cheap.

But the XPG Core Reactor isn't cheap, in any sense of the word. It's cheap-er to buy, but the quality is around the same as the GX, though the Core Reactor is based off of a CWT platform, not Seasonic's

MAIN PC:

CPU: Intel® Core™ i9-9900K Processor  Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Pro Wifi  CPU Cooler: Scythe Fuma 2  GPU: EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3 Ultra  RAM: Corsair Vengeance 32GB (4x8GB) 3000Mhz CL15

Case: CoolerMaster TD500 Mesh PSU: Thermaltake GF1 PE 750w Storage: 1TB Western Digital Blue 3D + 1TB Crucial P1 + 1TB ADATA XPG Gammix S11 Pro + 4TB Seagate Barracuda 5400RPM OS: Windows 10 Home

Headphones: Philips SHP9500s   Keyboard: Corsair K70 RGB MK.2 Cherry MX Red  Displays: Gigabyte M27Q (27" 1440p 170hz IPS), Samsung UN32EH4003FXZA (32" 768p 60hz TV)

 

SECONDARY PC:

CPU: Intel® Core™ i3-9100F Processor  Motherboard: ASRock Z390 Phantom Gaming 4-CB  CPU Cooler: Arctic Alpine 12 CO  GPU: EVGA RTX 3060 XC RAM: ADATA XPG 16GB (2x8GB) 2400Mhz CL16

Case: CyberpowerPC Onyxia  PSU: ATNG ATA-B 800w 80 Plus Bronze  Storage: 500GB Samsung 850 EVO + 2TB Seagate FireCuda SSHD 5400RPM    OS: Windows 10 Home

 

Former parts that I've used: Acer XG270HU, Asus Dual OC 2080, Gigabyte Aorus Master 3080, Gigabyte Gaming OC 3080, EVGA XC3 Ultra 3080, EVGA FTW3 Ultra 3080 Ti

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4 minutes ago, thestarsarehigh said:

First review I've found of the Seasonic Prime Fanless TX-700. It's in German but Chrome translated it pretty well. Never heard of this website though. 

Gamezoom 'reviews' aren't reviews by any means, just a bunch of randomly generated data, info found online in other sources and stolen images.

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On 5/1/2020 at 11:37 AM, Juular said:

Entire Seasonic S12III series are independent regulation, not DC-DC but double mag amp, it would be moved to tier B in the next revision. You might've heard about Seasonic S12II 650W+ which is DC-DC indeed, or rather units with wattage like X50W are DC-DC, whereas X30W ones are group. reg.

Why is it grayed out now? I am pretty sure it was regular few days ago...

 

I am building a PC for a friend with 5500 xt 8gb, Ryzen 1600 AF and 8gb of RAM, and was thinking about getting 550w version, but i am not sure right now and would use some advice.

 

Offer is not great in that price range, and the only "ok" units are Chieftec Proton BDF-S (2 years warranty), Cooler Master MWE White and Masterwatt Lite and LC Power Super Silent...so if there's something wrong with S12iii, then it will be really hard to find something decent...

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1 hour ago, the_hateful_one said:

Why is it grayed out now?

Not sure, but well, for the start it doesn't have any detailed reviews from reliable sources, there are that Polish review with crossloads at least but it's hard to say it can be trusted. But, since it's a budget PSU, with appropriate price tag it would be good choice still. If Chieftec Proton or CM MWE (if it's V2, with MPE suffix) is the same price or cheaper then go for them instead. As of LC Power, their lineups are hell, you need to tell exact model or link it.

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Hi

 

I thinking of buying the Corsair rm750x 2018, but got some what of a weird question 😅

 

If i look up the NA model and the EU model of rm750x 2018, then they look a little different from the back and the NA model seems larger?

 

asking because my local/online shop has a picture of the one with the blue in it, but corsair own has the picture of the other one with the big coils? and then I became curious as why there are different pictures of the same model ?  

 

CP-9020179-EU and CP-9020179-NA

 

and when i look at jonnyguru review of it, then it looks more as the NA model then the EU model?

 

EDIT: Ahhh is it because they use the picture of the 2015 model of the rm750x ?? 
EDIT 2: But then i don't know  why Jonnyguru rm750x 2018 looks different?

 

CP-9020179-NA.thumb.jpg.790137c3c08ad908d45ba92bb1d21ee1.jpgCP-9020179-EU.thumb.jpg.35ac61b1f3fd37c13b2c0f713bd3a533.jpg

 

 

 

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14 minutes ago, Gungi said:

and when i look at jonnyguru review of it, then it looks more as the NA model then the EU model?

tldr: there are two RMx versions, that aren't region dependent, rather are age dependent

 

there was one in 2015 that was bigger than the current 2018 version, which are the versions you're comparing

 

they're otherwise similar in performance, but are based off two different CWT platforms, that's why you're seeing differences

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13 minutes ago, LukeSavenije said:

tldr: there are two RMx versions, that aren't region dependent, rather are age dependent

 

there was one in 2015 that was bigger than the current 2018 version, which are the versions you're comparing

 

they're otherwise similar in performance, but are based off two different CWT platforms, that's why you're seeing differences

 

Okay its just here is the link to jonnyguru review of the 2018 model

http://www.jonnyguru.com/blog/2018/05/08/corsair-rm750x-2018-750w-power-supply/2/

 

And here is the link to corsair rm750x model

 

https://www.corsair.com/eu/en/Categories/Products/Power-Supply-Units/Power-Supply-Units-Advanced/RMx-Series/p/CP-9020179-EU

 

both should be the 2018 version right?

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4 hours ago, Gungi said:

both should be the 2018 version right?

Yes, differences in transient filter you see might be just general revisions CWT did at some point, but bridge rectifier heatsink and Y-caps still suggest that it's 2018 version.

Tag or quote me so i see your reply

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Sorry for late response.

On 6/23/2020 at 11:33 PM, Juular said:

If Chieftec Proton or CM MWE (if it's V2, with MPE suffix) is the same price or cheaper then go for them instead.

I am a bit conufsed now, isn't MWE V2 MPE model grayed out in the current list? Btw that exact model is available and all units are around the same price point...

 

And just so we are clear, you still think MWE is better choice than S12iii even if it's just 80+ certified? Also S12iii comes with 5 years warranty as opposed to 3 years for MWE...

 

I will skip LC model...

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@the_hateful_one MWE V2 is grayed out because current revision has problems with higher than expected ripple at low load, still below specifications and it's better unit than both Chieftec Proton BDF-S and Seasonic S12III technically, but really, for this build it doesn't really matter much and if you were to upgrade it eventually i'd recommend to look at smth more expensive anyway.

Tag or quote me so i see your reply

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2 minutes ago, Juular said:

@the_hateful_one MWE V2 is grayed out because current revision has problems with higher than expected ripple at low load, still below specifications and it's better unit than both Chieftec Proton BDF-S and Seasonic S12III technically, but really, for this build it doesn't really matter much and if you were to upgrade it eventually i'd recommend to look at smth more expensive anyway.

I hear you loud and clear, i was putting way to much thinking into it definitely :D

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On 6/25/2020 at 5:25 PM, Juular said:

@the_hateful_one MWE V2 is grayed out because current revision has problems with higher than expected ripple at low load, still below specifications and it's better unit than both Chieftec Proton BDF-S and Seasonic S12III technically, but really, for this build it doesn't really matter much and if you were to upgrade it eventually i'd recommend to look at smth more expensive anyway.

Hi there!  I have a month old Gaming PC (Ryzen 5-3600 / Nvidia Geforce 1660 TI / Asus Tuf B450 Plus Gaming).  The PSU I have is the MWE V2 650 (100-240V Input).  Should i be concerned?  Everything is at stock (PBO off) and I typically just game on it and keep it turned off when I am not using it.  What specifically can higher than expected ripple at low load do to a pc? 

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