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The 2700 is the better value, since the only difference is a small clock speed increase.

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

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Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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Get the 2700 and clock it to 2700X specs or better yourself. Pocket the money.

| CPU: Core i7-8700K @ 4.89ghz - 1.21v  Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX Z370-E GAMING  CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i V2 |
| GPU: MSI RTX 3080Ti Ventus 3X OC  RAM: 32GB T-Force Delta RGB 3066mhz |
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The 2700 since you have a good enough AiO to OC it.

Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700K @5ghz |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock Pro 4 |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490UD ATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: RX 6900XT Sapphire Nitro+ |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

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1 minute ago, schwellmo92 said:

I personally would get the 2700X for only $30 more, that way you don't need to bother with overclocking like you would on the 2700.

Should perform better in games as well, due to being able to boost 1-2, maybe 3 cores higher than you can run with a manual all core OC. My 2700X would to 4.2Ghz all core stable, but on it's own it'd boost cores to 4.35Ghz or sometimes faster, giving it better performance in anything that didn't use all 8c/16t. 

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