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No Dollar Wasted PC Build Guide

3 minutes ago, greenhorn said:

That's sad to hear. There will always be the question how many disclaimers/important safety notices have to be included in such a video. Normally, I would expect a viewer to use the ESD strap according to the instructions that came with it, but this will not be a valid assumption for every single viewer.

Some people mentioned including instructions on how to test existing wall outlets to make sure they are working correctly. While this might help to indentify some malfunctioning wall outlets, there is a substantial risk for a layperson to overlook some possible flaws that might still prove dangerous. Keeping these things in mind, I would rather recommend connecting the ESD strap to something like a radiator of the house's heating system. They should be connected to earth, in the worst case they are not connected to anything, which would make the ESD strap useless but not dangerous.

yes, please @GabenJr address this, just take out the scene where you plug it into the outlet

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11 hours ago, Radium_Angel said:

"No dollar wasted"

 

500$ video card....

 

Stay stupid LTT vids, I need the laughs

 

For me $500 video card is no dollar wasted. In December 2017 I bought 1080 Ti blower for $940 and considered myself lucky.

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He probably posted on Youtube, and then hit edit and copy/pasted here the message ... or copied the links from a youtube description, i don't know.

 

I agree with spending a few dollars more on a larger case, to have more room for the video card at the bottom, and at the very least go with a semi-modular power supply.

Spending 500$ on a video card (2/3rd of the total budget more or less) is kinda silly, when you're chocking it with everything else.

 

Also spending a few dollars more on a larger case could probably include one or two case fans by default in the case... so you also get better air flow.

 

 

 

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16 hours ago, quakeguy81 said:

Everybody stop crying about 2:22 Anthony sticking an ESD alligator clip into an electrical socket.  There are plenty of Youtube videos of people sticking things into electrical outlets.  Nothing to see here.

 

 

I would like to argue that it's not the point that there are other videos showing it, but that this is an educational video where somebody that doesn't know what they're doing might reasonably expect to be shown the proper way to do things. And plugging anything that isn't an actual plug into an outlet is definitely not the proper way to ground yourself. As others have said, a radiator, pipe or the metal casing of an appliance already plugged in would be.

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On 5/5/2019 at 5:18 PM, Philsty said:

Does anyone have the spreadsheet link with the VRM tier list from the video?

Looks like it's this one:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1-ZwVuH_tinzgpsOdfMvYeCLI5ZbIpnq5fyiWD4NCkkU/edit#gid=229691480

From this Reddit thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/9uc6bi/am4_b450x470_vrm_tier_list/

 

This is a good motherboard tier list on this website too: 

 

 

"We're all in this together, might as well be friends" Tom, Toonami.

 

mini eLiXiVy: my open source 65% mechanical PCB, a build log, PCB anatomy and discussing open source licenses: https://linustechtips.com/topic/1366493-elixivy-a-65-mechanical-keyboard-build-log-pcb-anatomy-and-how-i-open-sourced-this-project/

 

mini_cardboard: a 4% keyboard build log and how keyboards workhttps://linustechtips.com/topic/1328547-mini_cardboard-a-4-keyboard-build-log-and-how-keyboards-work/

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I really loved watching this build. Very intresting to watch how anthony deals with the challenge of a garbage 20$ m-atx case, but this box is gonna cook everything inside and thermal throttling is going to kick in hard, killing the price/performance advantage a 20$ box would give you. A build guide in a cheap case is a nice concept, but it's definitely not good value, and we are not even talking about the long term effects of cooking your components like that.

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On 5/4/2019 at 4:45 PM, firelighter487 said:

that makes sense. but since Windows at retail price is pretty expensive IMO it would have made more sense to demonstrate using Linux. 

Could have bought a nice Blu-Ray drive for that price turning the computer into a Media center as well (saving a few extra bucks assuming they don't have one)

 

That said I also feel the hate on optical disc drives is uncalled for. For one at least when I bought W10 it was cheaper by 10+ bucks and a key is still a key, for another you don't have to stupidly run around trying to find a computer that has windows installed just to install windows and yes there are people out there building their first computer with nothing more than a phone (esp now a days). So why wasn't the cost of the USB included in the build? Regardless of OS w/o a optical drive you will need one either way.

 

Even if rarely used it is still good to have at least a dvd drive as it's typically the easiest option for troubleshooting when (not if) Windows screws up.

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Nobody else going to mention the HDMI grounding tab on the I/O shield going inside the HDMI socket?

 

And tbh it easily happens, anyone who has built a good few PCs has probably had this happen, myself included but after it happens once that's the que to check each time after.

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6 hours ago, quakeguy81 said:

Except 99% of the time you need commercial software to play Blu Ray (PowerDVD) movies on PC.

Except for at least windows that statement is 99% wrong. Menus might not always work but it has yet to fail to play one on me yet as far as I can remember. https://www.leawo.com/blu-ray-player/

For Linux I would expect VLC to function better than it's windows counterpart https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/Blu-ray Or one can (I'm busy right now) look into the software said program above is based on. https://kodi.tv/

For windows it's stupidly easy, with Linux like anything Linux you need to spend 5 minutes of your life troubleshooting (possibly).

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7 hours ago, quakeguy81 said:

I've tried Leawo's Blu Ray player with varying success.  It's Chinese, so it might contain spyware.  It's not officially licensed to use Blu Ray technology (https://www.one-blue.com/licensors/). 

 

I tried to watch Terminator 2 on Blu Ray using Leawo's player and it played, but there were a lot of glitches throughout the movie.  I ended up buying PowerDVD 18 on sale.

 

BTW, this is really getting off-topic to this thread.

I've got my doubts it has spyware on it, it wouldn't be beneficial to their company (they are not Huawei and are a tiny company), you're more likely to get spied on threw Alibaba than that software. Same with VLC except Leawo managed to do it with basically almost 100% functioning.

 

I've never seen glitches threw any of my movies except if lit's a dual layered disc and half way threw the movie (like DVDs sometimes). Also PDVD actually goes on sale ?

 

Not really the people at LTT seem to have the opinion that optical drives should be dead like floppies, realistically they shouldn't I have issues still trying to boot from USB, heck in their 99 laptop video would the operating system that refused to boot, actually of booted on a disc (assuming that is a option)? I find you have greater success with discs than usb. Plus DVD drives are $15-$25 now so there really isn't a issue of cost for picking up at least that. I'm using Blu-Ray as a example because you could get a drive if one goes the linux route and likely get it to work.

 

Edit: that link shows all partners and not software makers. So a good number of those companies (if not all but one) are really useless in software front.

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To add to the ESD issue around 2:20 that's already been brought up :

 

In addition to what @tk321 said and @quakeguy81 's response, it being a safety hazard is not the only concern.

Sure enough it is definitely a hazard, especially if you have no idea why. Also yes, sticking metal objects into a socket can be done perfectly safely IF AND ONLY IF you know precisely what you're doing and understand the science behind electrical potential and electrical resistance—although at that point you should probably be smart enough to understand that even then it's a terrible idea and that you shouldn't do it. Even if you're "just" plugging it into ground and not something that's live, this means that YOU are the path to ground and that touching ANYTHING electrically charged has the chance of shocking you and possibly running lethal currents through your body.

 

But yes, ESD safety isn't, contrary to what some may believe as simple as "just grounding yourself" because ESD works both ways. If the components you're working with are charged in any way (which they very well can be—capacitors and batteries are very good at retaining charges, for example) then you could easily inflict reverse ESD because suddenly YOU are the path to ground and instead of you shocking the component, it shocks you (which can be just as harmful to the component!)

 

So what's the proper way? Simple, don't just ground yourself against an outlet or random metal object—but rather against the actual component itself! Grounding yourself against something other than the component itself only works if the component (and preferably the things around you as well) are ALSO grounded to the same point. Possibly the easiest way to achieve this is to simply put the components down on the side panel (avoid any windows, use the side without a window if possible!) and then attach the ESD stap to that same side panel.

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@GabenJr I like the video, but the ESD 'connect to ground' section is not only incorrect but potentially dangerous advice. Should there for any reason be a short to a chassi/component which you are working on, YOU will be the path to ground which the electricity takes. This is less of an issue when building a brand new PC with an unused PSU which has not been plugged in (assuming it wasn't tested at the factory), but once that has been the case the PSU will hold a significant and potentially lethal charge in it's capacitors even when not plugged in. Furthermore you don't need to be grounded against ground, but against the components you are working on, since if the components have a different charge to the ground you are using, ESD will occur. The key is that voltage is the potential difference, i.e. you want your charges to be equal, but that does not have to be 0. 

 

Other than that it's a great video and I hope to see Anthony in more videos!

 

*Edit*

I  see I am not the only one to point this out, so I apologize for the repetition of other messages.

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  • 1 month later...

The G.skill F4-3000C16D-16GISB is not compatible with this motherboard. I purchased the RAM and Im having issues with crashing and blue screen codes that indicate RAM issues. You can confirm this with Asrocks compatibility list for this Mobo.. https://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/B450M%20Pro4/#MemoryPR check the model number with the one posted in the link LTT's build llink... https://secure.newegg.com/Wishlist/PublicWishlistDetail?ID=27352334

 

Anthony does a great job but I guess I trusted Anthony's knowledge too much and I'm out $130. This video should be taken down.or updated.

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The 

4 minutes ago, Cobbster9 said:

The G.skill F4-3000C16D-16GISB is not compatible with this motherboard. I purchased the RAM and Im having issues with crashing and blue screen codes that indicate RAM issues. You can confirm this with Asrocks compatibility list for this Mobo.. https://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/B450M%20Pro4/#MemoryPR check the model number with the one posted in the link LTT's build llink... https://secure.newegg.com/Wishlist/PublicWishlistDetail?ID=27352334

 

Anthony does a great job but I guess I trusted Anthony's knowledge too much and I'm out $130. This video should be taken down.or updated.

The 

 

G.SKILL FORTIS Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2133 (PC4 17000) AMD X370 / B350 / A320 Memory (Desktop Memory) Model F4-2133C15Q-32GFT

 

is compatible with this mobo.

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1 minute ago, Cobbster9 said:

The 

The 

 

G.SKILL FORTIS Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2133 (PC4 17000) AMD X370 / B350 / A320 Memory (Desktop Memory) Model F4-2133C15Q-32GFT

 

is compatible with this mobo.

Should also add not compatible with Motherboard and CPU Ryzen 5 (Pinnacle Ridge).

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8 hours ago, Cobbster9 said:

The G.skill F4-3000C16D-16GISB is not compatible with this motherboard. I purchased the RAM and Im having issues with crashing and blue screen codes that indicate RAM issues. You can confirm this with Asrocks compatibility list for this Mobo.. https://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/B450M%20Pro4/#MemoryPR check the model number with the one posted in the link LTT's build llink... https://secure.newegg.com/Wishlist/PublicWishlistDetail?ID=27352334

 

Anthony does a great job but I guess I trusted Anthony's knowledge too much and I'm out $130. This video should be taken down.or updated.

Motherboard vendors' QVLs are not exhaustive lists of all compatible modules, just what they've tested internally and verified. There shouldn't be any problems running that memory on this board (it's not super tight timings or high bandwidth, and the 400-series and especially second-gen Ryzen both have good memory support in general), so I'm guessing you got a bad batch or there's something else going on. This is especially true if you run without DOCP/XMP enabled and still get the crashes, because default timings should be compatible regardless.

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My house isn't wired with ethernet and we can't really afford it. What would be the best wifi card for this build?

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Ok I found one

https://www.newegg.com/p/0XM-00HB-00007?Item=9SIACMW5CN6089&Description=300mbps%20wifi%20card&cm_re=300mbps_wifi_card-_-9SIACMW5CN6089-_-Product

 

I'll probably stick with this until I can get powerline wifi adaptors.

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  • 3 months later...

Any chance of putting part picker list on actual video instead of amazon/newegg link? I'd like to see when parts drop price for black friday. Might be a great price and time for an upgrade from my GTX 960.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Great videos as always. Question. Where did you get the mat that you built the rig on. From what I could see from the video it said AMD on it. What kind of mat is it?

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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

I run into a problem with this Setup. I got corsair ram  2x8GB at 3200Hz. I had them at slots A1/B1 and then i noticed that it was only working at 2133Hz. After following the video again and reading the specs from the official site of AsRock i switched to slots A2/B2.

The system booted fine at 3200Hz. I tested it by running cinebench 4-5 times just fine. All the readings of temperatures were fine.

After playing for about 30 minutes SW Jedi Fallen Order the pc shuts down like there is a temperature issue and won't boot unless i manually turn off and on the psu.

I changed my stock cooler to Arctic 34 pro duo just in case.

Tested again. Same issue.

Anything i am missing? Am i doomed to run at 2133Hz only? I feel like my pc is not using the xmp profile at all.

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You can also use frequencies between 2133 and 3200 Mhz.  2133 Mhz is just the default, safe setting.

Look with CPU-Z at the SPD profiles in your memory sticks, write down the timings for a lower frequency then go in bios and manually configure to 3000 mhz or 2933 mhz or 2666 mhz

If it's still unstable, raise the memory timings by a bit .. also make sure the voltage is set correctly. the sticks may need 1.35v at 3200 mhz, while they only need 1.2v at 2133 mhz.

 

put memtest on a usb stick  - https://www.memtest86.com/download.htm -  and test the ram for a full cycle (it can take around 15-30m) if you get no errors but pc still crashes its probably not the memory but maybe the video card or power supply undersized for the system and it turns itself off.

 

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