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[OLD] PSU Tier List 3.0 (Legacy)

LienusLateTips
Go to solution Solved by MEC-777,
1 minute ago, LukeSavenije said:

it's there

 

look in tier C

Its says bronze ?

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3 hours ago, jonnyGURU said:

Oh... So only PSUs that are going to blow up have protections that prevent them from blowing up?

 

If there's no OTP and the fan fails, it's not the caps that are going to fail.  It's a number of other parts.  

 

A PSU is not just a box full of capacitors.  Astounding how many people don't realize this.

 

I was under the impression there are other protections too. Wont one of those kick in?

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36 minutes ago, Tim Serious said:

Its says bronze ?

We do not care about 80plus at all.

If someone would re release something like the Antec Signature again, it would be way up.

 

But the MWE is kinda shit as half of it is Groupregulated, half of it is DC-DC and that also starts too far up...

 

So everything under 600W in the MWE is not good.

"Hell is full of good meanings, but Heaven is full of good works"

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6 minutes ago, thinwalrus said:

I was under the impression there are other protections too. Wont one of those kick in?

 

No, they won't.

 

Will ABS help you when you're driving sideways?
Will ABS help you when you're hitting a tree?
Will the Seatbelt help you when there is no grip on the streets??


Its the same reson why there are a ton of different Breaker Types in the Box: Your normal breaker, RCD and other stuff as well.

 

So for "shit its too hot", you need over temperature protection of some kind - otherwise your PSU might desolder some components or even kill your other stuff.

If you overload 5V, you want it to switch off before it hits 3V.

 

And UVP on 12V is also something nice to have, as this review shows:

https://www.hardwareluxx.de/index.php/artikel/hardware/netzteile/29916-enermax-triathlor-eco-650w-und-lepa-maxbron-700w-im-test.html?start=3

 

6V at 100A on the 12V Rail. Yeah. Awesome. I want that... NOT...

 

And that statement is just wrong:

14 hours ago, thinwalrus said:

Manufacturers put tight protections on psus that are made of questionable parts.

Or to be more clear:

shitty products only somewhat protect themselves, good products also protect other parts!

Because of this:

https://www.overclock.net/forum/31-power-supplies/944707-why-single-rail-not-better-than-multi-rail.html


THAT happens if a PSU is lacking protection, especially if it is on the higher wattage side:

IT WILL CAUSE A FIRE!

14 hours ago, thinwalrus said:

Funny enough its still better to have 105C Japanese cartel caps without otp than 85C fuhyooouuu or Capxon with otp if you are not swapping psus before they turn 5 years old.

That's totally wrong as well.

As Jon said, PSU aren't made of caps, its way more going on.

Because I haven't seen a PSU fail because of Caps in years.

Yes, it was a Problem in some units, for example FSP "Epsilon" (GHN and HHN) based ones but that was because of crappy design and the use of 8mm diametre caps. There is a reason why filter Caps in modern PSU are almost exclusively 10mm Diametre: Because they last way longer than the 8mm Counterparts!
Teapo states that the 8mm are IIRC 1000h Life, Nippon KZE are 3000h and 10mm are 4000h. Only the 12,5mm or larger have the full 5kh.

 

Caps might have been the issue on ancient Flyback units and other simpler stuff, but with modern units they are not a Problem at all!

 

So I rather have good electrical performance than Japanese Caps out of chinese factories.

 

Or for example: Rather have a Xilence Performance X 550W for 55€ than a 520W unit with Japanese caps.

Because if the electrical stuff is shit and worse than entry level units from Corsair, Cooler Master, be quiet and compare to the utter low end stuff like Xilence Performance C and Kolink, the Caps and "FDB" Fan are just totally wasted on that thing.

"Hell is full of good meanings, but Heaven is full of good works"

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16 minutes ago, Stefan Payne said:

 

No, they won't.

 

Will ABS help you when you're driving sideways?
Will ABS help you when you're hitting a tree?
Will the Seatbelt help you when there is no grip on the streets??


Its the same reson why there are a ton of different Breaker Types in the Box: Your normal breaker, RCD and other stuff as well.

 

So for "shit its too hot", you need over temperature protection of some kind - otherwise your PSU might desolder some components or even kill your other stuff.

If you overload 5V, you want it to switch off before it hits 3V.

 

And UVP on 12V is also something nice to have, as this review shows:

https://www.hardwareluxx.de/index.php/artikel/hardware/netzteile/29916-enermax-triathlor-eco-650w-und-lepa-maxbron-700w-im-test.html?start=3

 

6V at 100A on the 12V Rail. Yeah. Awesome. I want that... NOT...

 

And that statement is just wrong:

Or to be more clear:

shitty products only somewhat protect themselves, good products also protect other parts!

Because of this:

https://www.overclock.net/forum/31-power-supplies/944707-why-single-rail-not-better-than-multi-rail.html


THAT happens if a PSU is lacking protection, especially if it is on the higher wattage side:

IT WILL CAUSE A FIRE!

That's totally wrong as well.

As Jon said, PSU aren't made of caps, its way more going on.

Because I haven't seen a PSU fail because of Caps in years.

Yes, it was a Problem in some units, for example FSP "Epsilon" (GHN and HHN) based ones but that was because of crappy design and the use of 8mm diametre caps. There is a reason why filter Caps in modern PSU are almost exclusively 10mm Diametre: Because they last way longer than the 8mm Counterparts!
Teapo states that the 8mm are IIRC 1000h Life, Nippon KZE are 3000h and 10mm are 4000h. Only the 12,5mm or larger have the full 5kh.

 

Caps might have been the issue on ancient Flyback units and other simpler stuff, but with modern units they are not a Problem at all!

 

So I rather have good electrical performance than Japanese Caps out of chinese factories.

 

Or for example: Rather have a Xilence Performance X 550W for 55€ than a 520W unit with Japanese caps.

Because if the electrical stuff is shit and worse than entry level units from Corsair, Cooler Master, be quiet and compare to the utter low end stuff like Xilence Performance C and Kolink, the Caps and "FDB" Fan are just totally wasted on that thing.

Ok so voltage/current protections wont kick in and save your other parts if psu gets too hot?

 

I was trying to make a point that a top tier psu lacking in otp and with a loud fan in a hotbox, is likely to be better and last longer in use than a cheap budget model with otp, lower rated caps and a quiet fan in hotbox. And with a cheap budget model you are more likely to need any of those protection features? Or do the higher midtier(rmx) ones break down just as much as the budget lineup(cx) and have a higher price to cover the longer warranty(and parts)? 

 

I know I'm probably basing my hatred on Chinese brands on stuff that happened in early 2000:s or problems with counterfeit parts. But the fact that no large manufacturer is willing to give 10 year warranty to psu:s made solely using Chinese branded caps makes me think there is a known quality difference there.

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1 hour ago, Stefan Payne said:

We do not care about 80plus at all.

If someone would re release something like the Antec Signature again, it would be way up.

 

But the MWE is kinda shit as half of it is Groupregulated, half of it is DC-DC and that also starts too far up...

 

So everything under 600W in the MWE is not good.

Is if decent for something like gt1030 and an i3 ?

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2 minutes ago, Tim Serious said:

Is if decent for something like gt1030 and an i3 ?

there's better for the price. it would technically be enough, but i wouldn't recommend it

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5 minutes ago, LukeSavenije said:

there's better for the price. it would technically be enough, but i wouldn't recommend it

There's nothing better here in India at that price everything else is tier D i checked

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Just now, Tim Serious said:

There's nothing better here in India at that price everything else is tier D i checked

i'm curious... can you show me a website and a budget?

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5 minutes ago, Comic_Sans_MS said:

A GT 1030 is a waste of money. Get a Ryzen 2400G.

I know i already have it ... Don't need for gaming too much just league of legends sometimes , i would rather get a 250Gb ssd

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Just now, Tim Serious said:

That's would cost like 4000₹ after shipping already 1.2k more for my budget but thanks anyway

yeah... all the others are more SI level... i wish you good luck searching

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3 minutes ago, Rexper said:

I haven't looked at the Indian market for a while, but I believe there's some be quiet system power 9, FSP "Hexa 85+", or Andyson M5 there. Those are decent, super cheap units.

i know the first one (tho the <=350 is a group), but i'm curious about the other two...

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1 hour ago, Rexper said:

I haven't looked at the Indian market for a while, but I believe there's some be quiet system power 9, FSP "Hexa 85+", or Andyson M5 there. Those are decent, super cheap units.

Nothing with names close to like that i have heard here ... I will try to find corsair vs450 (grey) , most shops here are filled with h corsair vs (orange) or worse than that

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4 minutes ago, Tim Serious said:

Nothing with names close to like that i have heard here ... I will try to find corsair vs450 (grey) , most shops here are filled with h corsair vs (orange) or worse than that

guess it's the best from the worse...

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38 minutes ago, Tim Serious said:

Nothing with names close to like that i have heard here ... I will try to find corsair vs450 (grey) , most shops here are filled with h corsair vs (orange) or worse than that

Hm. Must've been thinking of another region. Sorry.

 

Revisiting, your options are pretty much the Corsair CX450 for 3500 or Corsair VS450 for <2500.

If you don't intend to upgrade, and don't mind the lack of modern sleep states the VS would be okay.

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On 3/18/2019 at 3:34 PM, LienusLateTips said:

How did I not see that unit... will be added in the coming minutes.

and now it's gone?

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X Heatsink: Gelid Phantom Black GPU: Palit RTX 3060 Ti Dual RAM: Corsair DDR4 2x8GB 3000Mhz mobo: Asus X570-P case: Fractal Design Define C PSU: Superflower Leadex Gold 650W

 

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Bio updated, finally

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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