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Guidance re Weird Memory Type Fault

jvenables

Guys, 

 

I have a rig which is now a couple of years old, i7 6 or 7 series, MSI M7 Gaming Motherboard, it has 2 Hyper Fury 8GB Dimm's in slots 1 and 3 if memory is correct. I bought an additional 2x 8GB Hyper Fury DDR Kit which in my mind should have been plug and it just works, however, sticking the DIMM's which were detected correctly in BIOS and Win 10, I started to get lots of weird issues, pc occasionally crashing, sometimes, it wouldnt power back on..etc..etc.. I took the 2 DIMM's out and all was well again, so I got the new dimm's replaced by Amazon as faulty. Stuck the 2 new dimm's in and tried again, everything seemed okay for a day or so, then I started getting the weird issues again. I ended up just returning the DIMM's and got a refund. But I am at a point where I need more RAM as I am trying to run some virtual machines on my PC for training that I have to do for work.

 

I am wondering if anyone could give me some thoughts on the above, possible things to test or prove.

 

Any guidance would be very much appreciated

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Hi jv, sounds like dust is in one of the (once) unpopulated DIMM slots, maybe try a little air blower or an air compressor. Be very gentle with the air compressor's air pressure if you are going that route.

 

HOWEVER, I had a Q97 chip set board a few years back that was listed with Dual channel dims, but ONLY when 2 out of the 4 slots were populated. When I wanted to use all 4 I had to use single channel memory. This was confirmed by the boards product manual - it's a kind of spec manufacturers don't really market. - But this shouldn't be your problem with the M7 board.  

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so my initial thoughts were clean the RAM slots with a can of air and/or an ESD Brush 1st, then download memtest86 onto a USB key, test the RAM in my existing slots on a multiple loop, if this runs clear, then shutdown and put the RAM in the other 2 slots, I am guessing i can do this....fingers crossed.and repeat the memtest process, that should then allow me with a certain level of confidence prove the slots are all good and the 2 existing DIMM's are both good. Then I will order another set of 2x8GB DD4 HyperX RAM

 

Thanks for the reply Warelf....Also love the fact you called me JV, thats what everyone normally calls me

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running an overclock?

My machine was a PITA because of RAM

Got a 2nd RAM kit, same model number but 2 years apart which i found out meant a few of the "other timings" were different. 

 

Manually bought the timings to the lowest common denominator (or highest) and it sorted itself out.

 

PC now behaves (mostly)

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It was a stock build, so dont believe its actually been overclocked. But your comment about the DIMM's being slightly different certainly sounds true, as the memory supplied with the machine was 18months to a year before I bought the second set

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Even though those timing are dealing with something like milliseconds my sticks were up to 20% different in a couple.  That is despite the on packet timings being the same

Trying to get a stable overclock was a learning curve as over clocking ram for gaming yields minimal benefits unless you're running top end so I'd never bothered. I think technically I was underclocking...

 

Whatever, I'm still running an IVY i5 so my skills are dated. Need the over clock to keep bottle necking to a minimum on the 1070.

 

 

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The default Bios settings on most board is set to "auto" under latency timings, so a reset to defaults in the bios should automatically correct a memory timing issue. MSI boards have EZ debug LEDs marked CPU | GPU | RAM on the board. When the system gives issues, is it just the RAM light red or is the RAM led an CPU or GPU LED blinking between one another? Otherwise you could use a pc speaker to hear the "beep codes" when the system posts. They often give you more specific issues.

 

Oh and RE: "Trying to get a stable overclock was a learning curve" on the skylake chips the stability improves when you actually lower the voltage on the cpu, becuase DDR4 range is 1.20 - 1.35V. I got my 6700(non-k) running stable at 4.3 with BCLK freq of 120 and voltage at 1.25 but I had to set the RAM from 3000MHz to 2666MHz to get it stable. Here less is actually more.

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