The Fastest Xbox of All Time

[AYyyKez]

 

On 3/2/2019 at 11:32 PM, JTrevail said:

I have my LEDs going to the same pins, and the switches to the power. I remember there being something funny about the PCB, but it was easy to follow the traces.

 

I got it working, led wire going to leds and led neg wire going to ground 3 and power reset and going to ground 1, but when the psu is one and the "pc" turned off the led's still are turned on, any ideas?

[JustPIE]

I decided to ignore the reset button. PC kept crashing when I hook it up.

 

Almost done with the tedious task of drilling out the holes for the USB.

Edited March 8, 2019 by JustPIE
Typo

[AYyyKez]

5 minutes ago, JustPIE said:

snipped

I'm going to do the same with the USB's, use the controller port housing. What do you meant the ignore button is the reset button? whats the ignore button?

[JustPIE]

53 minutes ago, AYyyKez said:

I'm going to do the same with the USB's, use the controller port housing. What do you meant the ignore button is the reset button? whats the ignore button?

Whoops, i did a derp. I ment "I decided to ignore the reset button."

Advice: first remove the metal pins by melting the solder and wedging it towards the back.

[AYyyKez]

2 minutes ago, JustPIE said:

Whoops, i did a derp. I ment "I decided to ignore the reset button."

Advice: first remove the metal pins by melting the solder and wedging it towards the back.

the ones on the side of the port holding the top metal shell on?

[JustPIE]

1 minute ago, AYyyKez said:

the ones on the side of the port holding the top metal shell on?

You can just wedge a small screwdriver between it from the back it and it will become lose but yes, also remove that.

I mean the contact points.

[AYyyKez]

1 minute ago, JustPIE said:

You can just wedge a small screwdriver between it from the back it and it will become lose but yes, also remove that.

I mean the contact points.

oh, yeah, i see what you mean, Thankyou!

[JTrevail]

On 3/5/2019 at 10:21 AM, AYyyKez said:

 

 

I got it working, led wire going to leds and led neg wire going to ground 3 and power reset and going to ground 1, but when the psu is one and the "pc" turned off the led's still are turned on, any ideas?

Something is wrong, maybe test the LEDs and the switches to make sure they aren't sharing a ground on the PCB or something. It's weird that the lights are still on though. Does the PC run ok if you start it with a screwdriver without the front panel connected?

[AYyyKez]

5 hours ago, JTrevail said:

Something is wrong, maybe test the LEDs and the switches to make sure they aren't sharing a ground on the PCB or something. It's weird that the lights are still on though. Does the PC run ok if you start it with a screwdriver without the front panel connected?

Im prettty sure its the pcb, i can have the LED's without the neg attached and they still work cos power neg is attached. ill have to try swaping the grounds, i ahve a temp fix. if the pcb LEDs are plugged into HDLED and no PLED they work fine. no idea what difference this makes but itt does something..

[JustPIE]

On 1/25/2019 at 4:30 AM, JTrevail said:

 

 

What video card did you use? Is it connected directly on the motherboard or through a riser?

 

The video card that I want to use it too width so I have to place it flat.  (Gigabyte Geforce RTX 2060 Mini ITX OC 6G)

 

[JTrevail]

On 3/10/2019 at 9:51 AM, JustPIE said:

What video card did you use? Is it connected directly on the motherboard or through a riser?

Zotac GTX 1050ti low-profile, but the CPU and the PSU can handle a better low-profile GPU down the line. I'm not using a riser.

[Mirkoskji]

Would like to share my experience, this has been working since November. If you really want you can fit a SFX psu, with some obvious modifications to the chassis. 

It's a Ryzen 5 2600 on a fat4l1ty b450 itx, 16gb gskill DDR4 3000, RTX 2080 and enermax 650w psu. A little bit junky but works flawlessly. Everything is under liquid metal thermal interface otherwise temps would be too high. They are 75 CPU, 75 GPU in gaming.

 

 

[gster84]

What was the game Linus was driving into the trees on?

[Ske7ch23]

Hi everyone!

I'm doing my own retro gaming Xbox and will be emulating lots of older systems on an old i3 socket 1155 I had lying around (the case is the main exiting bit for now...but I have plans)

 

I have just got the default power buttons and reset buttons working! and thought you may want to see them in action.

 

Pins 1-4 are power and reset. (Black and Red is power, Green and White is Reset.)

I have just butchered a USB header and the wires from a dual USB expansion card to get the wires and pins I wanted. 

 

I have this hooked up so that the eject button is reset, but if you wanted eject to be a power button you could just reverse this wiring.

5-8 are LED Power, I fiddled around until i got them all green and then soldered them both together for the motherboard  (if you have them back to front they will go red! kinda cool :D)

 

I assume the LED is sharing power as they are both soldered together. So its slightly dimmer than usual, but I am pleased with this result as I'm not a fan of LEDs glaring at me from under the television anyway. Its plenty bright in a darkened room and barely visible in daylight.

 

I'll do another update when I'm putting the controller ports together.

From what I understand, the xbox controller ports are just a proprietary usb, with an extra wire for the rumble? 

I have seen most people are putting standard usb ports on the front, which is cool. But I would like to use original xbox controllers with the original ports on this system, so that it looks totally stealth! 

 

Has anyone got original controllers working? and does anyone know if i will need additional software to get the original controllers to be recognised in windows 10?

 

Let me know if I messed up! But everything is working for me at the moment.

Edited October 29, 2019 by Ske7ch23
Let me know if I messed up!

[Player 143]

Where to buy the fastest Xbox OG

 

[JTrevail]

On 10/28/2019 at 8:21 PM, Ske7ch23 said:

Has anyone got original controllers working? and does anyone know if i will need additional software to get the original controllers to be recognised in windows 10?

There are unsigned drivers for the original controllers. I have my LEDs set up the same as you, but I put the power and eject buttons in parallel.

[Ske7ch23]

On 12/25/2019 at 3:14 PM, JTrevail said:

There are unsigned drivers for the original controllers. I have my LEDs set up the same as you, but I put the power and eject buttons in parallel.

Does this make both buttons function as power?

[JTrevail]

Yes, they are both momentary tactile buttons; they momentarily short the power pins. In series they would almost work as a security feature (you would have to click both at once).

[Ske7ch23]

https://www.s-config.com/xbcd-original-xbox-controllers-win10/

 

For anyone with a little more knowledge than me!? (scroll down to the wiring diagram)

 

I'm just looking at this to see if I could just use the og controller in the original ports.
I would like to use the original wiring from the back of the controller ports and splice that into a standard usb cable, which I can attach to the motherboard. or a usb hub if necessary?

[Ske7ch23]

Completed my case build today and test fitted everything. VERY SNUG! 

 

So to dismantle this I will first have to remove cables. Then the dc-atx converter. Then remove ram to allow the psu to unscrew and slide out with the ssd. (stuck to it) Next is the motherboard and io shield. And finally the GPU is free!  

 

I think this will need a coat of black paint on the inside next. And then I will attempt to get the front controller ports working with USB.

Possibly a little green led strip and the controller port led mod as well. But we will see. I may prefer the total stealth look / be lazy. 

[AlexTheGreatish]

41 minutes ago, Ske7ch23 said:

~snip~

That's awesome!!!  Yeah getting everything in and out is a real chore

[Ske7ch23]

10 hours ago, AlexTheGreatish said:

That's awesome!!!  Yeah getting everything in and out is a real chore

I can only imagine your pain trying to dismantle and assemble this several times for the video!

 

Cheers for all the files btw Alex. Couldn't do this fun project without your work. 

 

I've got the 400w internal psu from HD plex in there. But only the 200w atx converter. I was hoping it would fit the larger atx converter for a future gpu upgrade... But I think this should power most mid range stuff. So you can save a little more space if you go with the 200w internal psu. 

 

I recommend anyone to try this. Especially anyone like me who had an older Itx system gathering dust. Most metal shops will make the chassis for you for reasonable money.

 

I'll be back with an update when I have time to give it a paint job. 

[JTrevail]

On 2/5/2020 at 5:50 AM, Ske7ch23 said:

I've got the 400w internal psu from HD plex in there. But only the 200w atx converter. I was hoping it would fit the larger atx converter for a future gpu upgrade... But I think this should power most mid range stuff. So you can save a little more space if you go with the 200w internal psu. 

I'm using a 500W internal PSU. I've looked into using the original controller ports, but I'm not comfortable disabling the integrity checks on my machine.

[Ske7ch23]

20 hours ago, JTrevail said:

I'm using a 500W internal PSU. I've looked into using the original controller ports, but I'm not comfortable disabling the integrity checks on my machine.

Yea i'm not too worried about it. I'm happy to compromise for the true sleeper look.

 

Also how on earth did you fit that psu in there. Is it loud!?  I assume you need a slim gpu to do this.

 

My PSU is mounted at the front above controller port 3 and 4. Underneath I have cut away most of the metal so that more air can flow in from the little vent at the front of the case... I may also have room for a larger mechanical hdd or ssd under it. Admittedly I have spent more money on the psu setup than the rest of the system put together. But I see no need at this stage of the build to use anything but spare parts and cheap ebay components to test fit everything. (I also collect og xbox games consoles and handheld nintendo consoles, so I don't have an unlimited hobby budget for this)

 

I did toy with the idea of mounting the 400w psu to the back of the case Externally, so as to fit a more standard size gpu. but in the end I decided it defeated the point of the sleeper build.

 

[JTrevail]

On 2/10/2020 at 5:46 AM, Ske7ch23 said:

Aso how on earth did you fit that psu in there. Is it loud!?  I assume you need a slim gpu to do this.

I actually fit a low profile GPU, so the 500W PSU isn't actually necessary, but it also isn't overkill. I also replaced the fan in PSU with a Noctua.

 

I gutted the console, so the metal case is gone, but I retained the rigidity by keeping the four outer posts in the case, and by fastening the PSU right to the bottom of the case. The PSU is now structural lol, as is the DVI port.