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The Fastest Xbox of All Time

nicklmg
1 hour ago, HorrorCosmic said:

@AlexTheGreatish

 

What did you use to connect the 4 usb ports in the front? That mobo only has 1 header so did you use a hub or a usb 3 header to usb 2?

 

I was looking at using this:

1717763997_51kdFbxjBaL(1).jpg.a7d1738d9afcb8244d8d392066ff897e.jpg

 

But I wanted to see what you guys decided on.

 

 

Our board had one USB 2 and a USB 3 header, so we used a USB 3 internal header and a USB 2 internal header.  Both were a bit too wide so some material was removed on the belt sander and then hot glued into place (like the really good hot glue though haha)

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Can't wait for the Xbox 360 slim computer. 

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On 1/25/2019 at 3:30 AM, JTrevail said:

-snipped-

 

 

On 1/25/2019 at 5:07 AM, Zaazu said:

-snipped-

 Did either or both of you two hook up the xboxs original power/led/reset pcb to the motherboard? I've seen the pinout but im not sure which wires i would want to solder together with standard pc front panel wires so i have motherboard headers attached to the wires. any help?

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@AlexTheGreatish Ive been trying to research how to solder wires together to get the xbox's front panel to plug into a motherboard and which ones to solder to which standard motherboard front io wires and I just realised Linus presses the button in the video to turn it on, did you use the xboxs front panel pcb or like hot glue a power on switch behind it?
This is the pinout ive been working from
frontpanelheader640.jpg

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5 hours ago, AYyyKez said:

snip

I tried to get that board to work but it didn't work out.  Instead I made a custom board that is basically just a switch soldered to a prototype board and placed behind the power button.  Lighting is done with a small section of an RGB strip.

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@imreloadin So far i can tell from the video they are using:

 

- HDPLEX 400W Hi-Fi DC-ATX Power Supply (+ HDPLEX 400W AC-DC adapter?)

- Samsung 970 Pro 1TB (m.2)

- Intel Core i5-8400

- Asus ROG Strix B360-I Gaming

- Zotac Gaming GeForce RTX 2070 Mini

- Non-original GPU fans, replaced with smaller one and holding on by zipties. 

- NH-L9i heat sink from Noctua (CPU cooler)

 

I am not able to find the RAM sticks they are using.

 

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6 hours ago, JustPIE said:

@imreloadin So far i can tell from the video they are using:

 

- HDPLEX 400W Hi-Fi DC-ATX Power Supply (+ HDPLEX 400W AC-DC adapter?)

- Samsung 970 Pro 1TB (m.2)

- Intel Core i5-8400

- Asus ROG Strix B360-I Gaming

- Zotac Gaming GeForce RTX 2070 Mini

- Non-original GPU fans, replaced with smaller one and holding on by zipties. 

- NH-L9i heat sink from Noctua (CPU cooler)

 

I am not able to find the RAM sticks they are using.

 

The RAM is Corsair Vengeance LPX

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On 2/19/2019 at 7:22 PM, AYyyKez said:

@AlexTheGreatish Ive been trying to research how to solder wires together to get the xbox's front panel to plug into a motherboard and which ones to solder to which standard motherboard front io wires and I just realised Linus presses the button in the video to turn it on, did you use the xboxs front panel pcb or like hot glue a power on switch behind it?
This is the pinout ive been working from
frontpanelheader640.jpg

I followed the traces on the back of that PCB, and pulled out the yellow wires that I did not need. I clipped off the connector, and put female jumper ends on the remaining ones.

sZA09.jpg.8459435e2b82e424109f07199ab96991.jpg

 

Green LEDs were in parallel, and both switched were in parallel. I'm really happy with the look.

IMG_20190227_145845.thumb.jpg.9373ce98ef4072df269e6d14444629b7.jpg

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4 hours ago, JTrevail said:

snipped

Any chance you can upload photos of the wires? 

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12 hours ago, JTrevail said:

I followed the traces on the back of that PCB, and pulled out the yellow wires that I did not need. I clipped off the connector, and put female jumper ends on the remaining ones.

My motherboard kept shutting down as soon as i connected the "- power led" after 5 seconds.

The weird thing was that without the "- power led" the leds would turn on when the buttons made connection.

 

I ended up de-soldering the leds and wiring them directly to the "+ power led" and "- power led".

Thanks to the holes under the leds they kept there original position (with help of some hot glue ?).

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@JTrevail What PSU? I've *finally* got my big 3D printer working. So first sleeper PC is using a laptop PSU setup, but I like yours there, I need MORE POWER for version 2. :P

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1 minute ago, TechyBen said:

@JTrevail What PSU? I've *finally* got my big 3D printer working. So first sleeper PC is using a laptop PSU setup, but I like yours there, I need MORE POWER for version 2. :P

Depends, how much POWERR?

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Just now, JustPIE said:

Depends, how much POWERR?

I want a 1080ti if possible... lol. But 300-450w is fine, as I can go with the new 1660 (spits) or similar.

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2 minutes ago, TechyBen said:

I want a 1080ti if possible... lol. But 300-450w is fine, as I can go with the new 1660 (spits) or similar.

I am still searching for a cheaper alternative but the https://www.hdplex.com/hdplex-400w-hi-fi-dc-atx-power-supply-16v-24v-wide-range-voltage-input.html is a fine psu. It does require a 330watt dell power adapter..

 

You can check https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ to see how much watt your system is going to use.

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1 minute ago, JustPIE said:

I am still searching for a cheaper alternative but the https://www.hdplex.com/hdplex-400w-hi-fi-dc-atx-power-supply-16v-24v-wide-range-voltage-input.html is a fine psu. It does require a 330watt dell power adapter..

 

You can check https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ to see how much watt your system is going to use.

Yeah. IIRC Alex mentioned that one. Is nice for my current build, if I use a 1050ti or similar, I might be able to pull those watts. But for going with a 1080, I'm gonna need SFX/server sized power supplies. I see a server PSU in Jtrevials build!

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https://www.hdplex.com/hdplex-internal-400w-ac-dc-adapter-with-active-pfc-and-19vdc-output.html
You do not 'need' the 330w Dell, HDplex are making their own. Assumed internal for S4mini but can be external, the guy that makes the mini is looking into ways to make it external. They are also working on an 800w version of the 400w dc/dc which would use two of these^^^

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3 minutes ago, AYyyKez said:

https://www.hdplex.com/hdplex-internal-400w-ac-dc-adapter-with-active-pfc-and-19vdc-output.html
You do not 'need' the 330w Dell, HDplex are making their own. Assumed internal for S4mini but can be external, the guy that makes the mini is looking into ways to make it external.

I ment to say that you require another brick to power the PSU.

 

image.png.9cd0efe183b884acf63bc8c2bb6894fe.png

 

Quote

They are also working on an 800w version of the 400w dc/dc which would use two of these^^^


You mean the https://www.hdplex.com/hdplex-800w-dc-atx-with-16v-63vdc-input.html?

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yes, that one. on their own ac/dc if you scroll down they even have a kettle adaptor attached to it so you wouldnt even use one of those laptop circle stupid things that always break and you have to hold in a weird way for them to work.

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On 2/28/2019 at 8:42 AM, AYyyKez said:

https://www.hdplex.com/hdplex-internal-400w-ac-dc-adapter-with-active-pfc-and-19vdc-output.html
You do not 'need' the 330w Dell, HDplex are making their own. Assumed internal for S4mini but can be external, the guy that makes the mini is looking into ways to make it external. They are also working on an 800w version of the 400w dc/dc which would use two of these^^^

Have 3D printer. Can make external. XD

 

But if it's that big total, then I'd go for an SFX... only when it's worth moving the PSU outside the case would I go for the laptop style power option (as in my stealth build I'm currently printing)... :)

 

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On 2/27/2019 at 7:48 PM, AYyyKez said:

Any chance you can upload photos of the wires? 

It's hard to get at, sorry.

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On 2/28/2019 at 3:15 AM, JustPIE said:

My motherboard kept shutting down as soon as i connected the "- power led" after 5 seconds.

The weird thing was that without the "- power led" the leds would turn on when the buttons made connection.

 

I ended up de-soldering the leds and wiring them directly to the "+ power led" and "- power led".

Thanks to the holes under the leds they kept there original position (with help of some hot glue ?).

I have my LEDs going to the same pins, and the switches to the power. I remember there being something funny about the PCB, but it was easy to follow the traces.

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Thanks to the video, I'm now spiraling into madness as I plan out how to make my old Xbox 360 into a PC, non-sleeper because there's no way you'd be able to do it without drilling holes in the plastic shell. ?

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