Is my new PSU tripping the breaker?

[Boomwebsearch]

1 minute ago, seon123 said:

The PSU should protect the rest of the components. 

It could be a possibility that the PSU does protect the components although there is still that chance that when it dies it will take one or more other components in you system along with it, therefore I would not risk it. With a high-end system build such as one with the specs you specified I would really suggest using a high quality surge protector with a CEG (Connected Equipment Guarantee) or a UPS unit with a CEG (Connected Equipment Guarantee) and more optimally with an AVR. If you are not planning to change the electrical setup, I think that there are still some options remaining. Maybe try using a reduced load or use the computer with a different breaker (usually each room has a separate breaker, therefore you could move the system to a room with low general load being used on it). Although, since that there is always the risk of damaging your components without using surge protectors or UPS units, if you don't use one then please proceed at your own risk/with caution as if you get components damaged there is not going to be a CEG which would be able to reimburse you for your damages.

[Razor Blade]

2 minutes ago, DadouXIII said:

They are switches I flip up and down, no fuses.

Unfortunately, I am in no position whatsoever to have the breaker modified in any way

 

 

Edit: I'll be back tomorrow morning to reply more, it's super late here, thank you guys so much for the support.

Sorry if I missed this but what else is on that circuit?

 

Breakers can wear out if they're tripped often. It may just be as simple as replacing the breaker with a new one of the same rating. Maybe time to hire an electrician to access...

[DadouXIII]

10 minutes ago, Boomwebsearch said:

It could be a possibility that the PSU does protect the components although there is still that chance that when it dies it will take one or more other components in you system along with it, therefore I would not risk it. With a high-end system build such as one with the specs you specified I would really suggest using a high quality surge protector with a CEG (Connected Equipment Guarantee) or a UPS unit with a CEG (Connected Equipment Guarantee) and more optimally with an AVR. If you are not planning to change the electrical setup, I think that there are still some options remaining. Maybe try using a reduced load or use the computer with a different breaker (usually each room has a separate breaker, therefore you could move the system to a room with low general load being used on it). Although, since that there is always the risk of damaging your components without using surge protectors or UPS units, if you don't use one then please proceed at your own risk/with caution as if you get components damaged there is not going to be a CEG which would be able to reimburse you for your damages.

I have ordered a surge protector power strip.

https://www.amazon.de/APC-PM5-GR-5AC-Ausgänge-1-83m-Spannungsschutz/dp/B00TGTJKJS/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1546227345&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=APC+PM5-GR+ESSENTIAL+SURGEARREST+5+OUTLETS+230V

Would that be enough? It also comes with a warranty according to the description. Is that enough? Would that protect my components from the breaker trips in case I want to test it more?

We will see for the UPS.

 

I just checked again and saw there are other rooms with a 16 amp breaker. I will try the computer there: if it still flips, then the PSU is faulty. If it doesn't then it was because the new PSU's initial intake is too much for the 10amp breaker.

 

I'm also considering transferring the RM750 PSU from the old PC and returning the RM750i, since the old one works without problem.

 

14 minutes ago, Razor Blade said:

Sorry if I missed this but what else is on that circuit?

 

Breakers can wear out if they're tripped often. It may just be as simple as replacing the breaker with a new one of the same rating. Maybe time to hire an electrician to access...

The one that flipped? nothing, just my room, all on 10 amps.

[Stefan Payne]

1 hour ago, DadouXIII said:

Note 1: The breaker is old, in my room is gives out 10 amps, and the breaker is type B
Note 2: My older PC with also a Corsair PSU RM750 (5 years old, much older model) and something like this never happened...

Can you please help? I'm quite worried

It is normal because of the way it works.

 

10A with Type B means 3-5 times, that means 30-50A. And for a couple of milli or micro seconds the PSU consumes more like that, breaker thinks "oh fuck, a short, I need to trip", that's what happens.

 

So the only solution is to let an electrician look at the things and if it is possible to replace the breaker with a different one or a different Characteristik.

 

In my personal experience, the Hager B16 is way faster than a Cheap ABB B16 one.

So a different Breaker might solve it...

[Stefan Payne]

1 hour ago, DadouXIII said:

I can test it in the kitchen, it has 2x 10 amps breakers. I'm just worried, is there a risk that those breaker trips will fry the PC?
Why would it trip the first time, but not the second time? This is so weird...

No, it is normal and makes sense if you understand what happens.

In short: the second time, the Caps are charged a bit and thus the inrush current is less.

Or you are at a different position on the sine wave and it happens that you're on the lower end...

 

1 hour ago, DadouXIII said:

Edit: Is there any change the PSU is faulty?

Edit2: Is there any chance the cable management caused it?

Edit3: OK I've been told that 2x 10 amps breakers don't add up, so that won't work.

1) no, everything is fine

2) probably, if you switch more than the PSU. But the solution is to not switch the PSU off.

3) correct

but why the heck do you have 10A Breakers?
Where do you live??

1 hour ago, DadouXIII said:

Yep, my house is old. 10 amps is not much.

Where do you live? East Germany? Poland? And have aluminium cables??
Haven't seen 10A here. Most are 16A...

 

1 hour ago, DadouXIII said:

Oh wow, that is eye revealing. What do you recommend I do?

Nothing.

Call an Electrician

don't switch off the PSU.

1 hour ago, DadouXIII said:

Also: why does it only happen the first time of the day (ie when the PSU switch has been off all the time I was asleep). After the trip, I try again, and this time its fine.

Because Charge of Capacitor.

and possibility different place on the Sinewave.

 

1 hour ago, DadouXIII said:

They are switches I flip up and down, no fuses.

Unfortunately, I am in no position whatsoever to have the breaker modified in any way

Why not?
Ask your Landlord or whatever you have to do.

[DadouXIII]

6 minutes ago, Stefan Payne said:

No, it is normal and makes sense if you understand what happens.

In short: the second time, the Caps are charged a bit and thus the inrush current is less.

Or you are at a different position on the sine wave and it happens that you're on the lower end...

 

1) no, everything is fine

2) probably, if you switch more than the PSU. But the solution is to not switch the PSU off.

3) correct

but why the heck do you have 10A Breakers?
Where do you live??

Where do you live? East Germany? Poland? And have aluminium cables??
Haven't seen 10A here. Most are 16A...

 

Nothing.

Call an Electrician

don't switch off the PSU.

Because Charge of Capacitor.

and possibility different place on the Sinewave.

 

Why not?
Ask your Landlord or whatever you have to do.

I'm having a real problem trying to sleep here

 

 

Thank you for the very detailed response, I really understand much more now, and I think we are pretty much identifying the problem.

 

You had it right the first time, I live in East Germany

 

So you think there is no risk to the computer then? I'm still waiting for my surge protector power strip to arrive, and then I'm going to try the computer in another room where the breaker is 16B. Right now I don't dare causing the breaker to trip again.

 

I'll talk to the landlord, but well, let's see.

 

Just another question: does the PSU always take the full inrush of current? or does it take more or less depending on what is plugged in it? Like if I only turn on the PSU without it being plugged in to anything, will the inrush take in as much power as if it's plugged in to everything else?

[Stefan Payne]

13 minutes ago, DadouXIII said:

You had it right the first time, I live in East Germany

Hehehe ^^
IIRC they were short on copper so they used aluminium cables, wich can't do as much current for the same thickness. So they put 10A Breaker there.

But I might be wrong and the 10A Breakers are there because it was common at the time.

 

13 minutes ago, DadouXIII said:

So you think there is no risk to the computer then? I'm still waiting for my surge protector power strip to arrive, and then I'm going to try the computer in another room where the breaker is 16B. Right now I don't dare causing the breaker to trip again.

No, not really.

But you shouldn't switch off the PSU right now and let it pluged in. Its better than the double stress due to breaker tripping.

 

 

13 minutes ago, DadouXIII said:

I'll talk to the landlord, but well, let's see.

Just tell them that you have increased problems with your devices. And when you plug it in the breaker alway trips.

Don't you have a Microwave??
Doesn't the Breaker trip with them as well? We had the Issue. Then I replaced the Breakers, used the old "defective" Breakers and it was fine.

But we had the old "Hausbrand" (H-Type) and L-Type that were like 30-50 years at the time.

 

13 minutes ago, DadouXIII said:

Just another question: does the PSU always take the full inrush of current? or does it take more or less depending on what is plugged in it? Like if I only turn on the PSU without it being plugged in to anything, will the inrush take in as much power as if it's plugged in to everything else?

Depends on where you are on the sinewave.

When the voltage is zero, the inrush current isn't too high. But if you happened to be at a higher point in the Sinuswave, it is higher.

So no, it depends on how lucky you are...

 

But usually you should expect it to be on the higher end...

 

 

[DadouXIII]

8 hours ago, Stefan Payne said:

But you shouldn't switch off the PSU right now and let it pluged in. Its better than the double stress due to breaker tripping. 

I had to switch it off again to finish the cable management, and I need to plug in the 2080 when it arrives.

 

8 hours ago, Stefan Payne said:

Just tell them that you have increased problems with your devices. And when you plug it in the breaker alway trips.

So I talked to the landlord, he is going to ask an electrician to come and we will talk wit the electrician together.

Oh and it turns out I have 16 amp breakers in the bathroom!

 

8 hours ago, Stefan Payne said:

When the voltage is zero, the inrush current isn't too high. But if you happened to be at a higher point in the Sinuswave, it is higher.

OK, so the PSU inrush (not connected to anything) = PSU inrush (connected to everything else)? That's the question here, I understand the Sinwave stuff now

 

So here is the plan right now:

- I wait for the surge protector to arrive, should be in a couple of days

- I plug the computer in the bathroom and turn on the PSU, to see if the breaker still trips

- If the breaker does not trip, then we were right and the problem has been 100% identified, it's because the initial inrush is too strong for the 10 amps breaker (A).

- If the breaker still trips, then the PSU unity is fault I guess? (B).

 

If A is true:

- I will charge the caps in the bathroom where the breaker is 16 amps, and then turn it back on in my room, should be fine.

- Until we hopefully switch to a 16 amp breaker in the room.

 

If B is true:

- I will try the PSU from my old computer (RM750) in my new computer.

- If it does not trip the 10 amp breaker, then the problem is with the new PSU (RM750i).

- If it STILL trips the 10 amp breaker, then the problem is somewhere else...

[Stefan Payne]

2 hours ago, DadouXIII said:

OK, so the PSU inrush (not connected to anything) = PSU inrush (connected to everything else)? That's the question here, I understand the Sinwave stuff now

Yes, the Inrush current is independant of things connected to it as it only does charge the primary capacitor of the PSU.

It only depends on the Alternating Current and where at the sinewave you are when connecting to the grid.

 

2 hours ago, DadouXIII said:

So here is the plan right now:

- I wait for the surge protector to arrive, should be in a couple of days

- I plug the computer in the bathroom and turn on the PSU, to see if the breaker still trips

- If the breaker does not trip, then we were right and the problem has been 100% identified, it's because the initial inrush is too strong for the 10 amps breaker (A).

- If the breaker still trips, then the PSU unity is fault I guess? (B).

You don't need to wait for the surge protector. As that is not really the device you want.

I'd just test it in the Bathroom with the 16A Breaker you have there...

 

 

[DadouXIII]

1 hour ago, Stefan Payne said:

You don't need to wait for the surge protector. As that is not really the device you want.

It just want to protect my equipment. So you're saying it's safe to try now?

What equipment do I want now then?

[Boomwebsearch]

13 hours ago, DadouXIII said:

I have ordered a surge protector power strip.

https://www.amazon.de/APC-PM5-GR-5AC-Ausgänge-1-83m-Spannungsschutz/dp/B00TGTJKJS/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1546227345&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=APC+PM5-GR+ESSENTIAL+SURGEARREST+5+OUTLETS+230V

Would that be enough? It also comes with a warranty according to the description. Is that enough? Would that protect my components from the breaker trips in case I want to test it more?

We will see for the UPS.

 

1 hour ago, DadouXIII said:

It just want to protect my equipment. So you're saying it's safe to try now?

What equipment do I want now then?

 

2 hours ago, Stefan Payne said:

You don't need to wait for the surge protector. As that is not really the device you want.

I'd just test it in the Bathroom with the 16A Breaker you have there...

This one seems okay at first glance although I think that there are still some better options available which would offer better protection against surges. Although, this one should be fine to use to protect your computer against everyday surges. From what I was able to interpret, I noticed that this ones does not have an AVR, which means that it is not going to help at all with brownouts when the voltage is too low, although for surges it should work okay although with a greater range of voltages before it detects a surge because it it was to always absorb everything which is not perfect voltage power in terms of being to high then its MOV (Metal Oxide Varistor) would wear out really fast and then eventually be nothing more than a basic power strip. Note that these do not last for ever and will eventually wear out, I think that this one will turn off its surge protected sign indicator when it comes to that point although not sure as I don't have access to its user manual. A UPS is typically going to be able to offer a lot better protection for your electronics (especially with AVR), although I know that the prices can go quite high on them even for lower end units. It also protects your hard drive from going bad and your data would be safe from a power outage. It really depends if you are doing mission critical work on the system or want that protection enough to justify the high costs for them. Most PC users don't need them although they are more optimal to have than not. You may need a pure sine wave output model if your PSU has active PFC and will reject a simulated or square sine wave. What I would really recommend before testing with the surge protector is going to be to call up the manufacturer when you get the item and ask them to review the CEG on their product with you and its details to ensure that if something goes wrong then they will honor their protection warranty, I know some brands that will only pay for a used value for damaged electronics and not the cost to replace them, so make sure to know that and accept that protection before continuing with your testing. Also, @Stefan Payne there are some significant risks with testing near sources of water from short circuits and then dead equipment to including possible shock hazards related to the electricity, please take extra caution if you do decide on testing near water sources, maybe even disconnect the water completely and then test. Please be safe when testing with electricity near water sources or better would be to not test in the bathroom and take like a proper extension cord from the bathroom wall outlet over to another area and then test. If the bathroom does not have GCFI then that is a serious electrocution hazard and I would highly suggest getting those outlets replaced with GCFI ones with a test function preferably. That is quite strange that the builders would put 16 amp breakers in the bathrooms although not in bedrooms and other rooms where it is more likely that you are going to use more wattage/energy. I think that maybe in the past ownership, someone's hair dryer or something kept tripping the breaker and that is why they may have gotten it upgraded for only the bathrooms and not for other rooms because of that reason.

[DadouXIII]

35 minutes ago, Boomwebsearch said:

 

 

This one seems okay at first glance although I think that there are still some better options available which would offer better protection against surges. Although, this one should be fine to use to protect your computer against everyday surges. From what I was able to interpret, I noticed that this ones does not have an AVR, which means that it is not going to help at all with brownouts when the voltage is too low, although for surges it should work okay although with a greater range of voltages before it detects a surge because it it was to always absorb everything which is not perfect voltage power in terms of being to high then its MOV (Metal Oxide Varistor) would wear out really fast and then eventually be nothing more than a basic power strip. Note that these do not last for ever and will eventually wear out, I think that this one will turn off its surge protected sign indicator when it comes to that point although not sure as I don't have access to its user manual. A UPS is typically going to be able to offer a lot better protection for your electronics (especially with AVR), although I know that the prices can go quite high on them even for lower end units. It also protects your hard drive from going bad and your data would be safe from a power outage. It really depends if you are doing mission critical work on the system or want that protection enough to justify the high costs for them. Most PC users don't need them although they are more optimal to have than not. You may need a pure sine wave output model if your PSU has active PFC and will reject a simulated or square sine wave. What I would really recommend before testing with the surge protector is going to be to call up the manufacturer when you get the item and ask them to review the CEG on their product with you and its details to ensure that if something goes wrong then they will honor their protection warranty, I know some brands that will only pay for a used value for damaged electronics and not the cost to replace them, so make sure to know that and accept that protection before continuing with your testing. Also, @Stefan Payne there are some significant risks with testing near sources of water from short circuits and then dead equipment to including possible shock hazards related to the electricity, please take extra caution if you do decide on testing near water sources, maybe even disconnect the water completely and then test. Please be safe when testing with electricity near water sources or better would be to not test in the bathroom and take like a proper extension cord from the bathroom wall outlet over to another area and then test. If the bathroom does not have GCFI then that is a serious electrocution hazard and I would highly suggest getting those outlets replaced with GCFI ones with a test function preferably. That is quite strange that the builders would put 16 amp breakers in the bathrooms although not in bedrooms and other rooms where it is more likely that you are going to use more wattage/energy. I think that maybe in the past ownership, someone's hair dryer or something kept tripping the breaker and that is why they may have gotten it upgraded for only the bathrooms and not for other rooms because of that reason.

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00T7BYMTS/?coliid=I1CQCCWXR18AOT&colid=36KRHBW35X1NS&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

What do you think of this ?

[Boomwebsearch]

13 minutes ago, DadouXIII said:

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00T7BYMTS/?coliid=I1CQCCWXR18AOT&colid=36KRHBW35X1NS&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

What do you think of this ?

This one has a good Voltage Amp capacity of 1400 although for wattage it can only handle 700 watts. Your 750 watt PSU just at the point when it is going to pull full load to initiate is going to most likely trip the internal overload reset circuit breaker on the UPS and sound an continuous alarm. There is one feature on UPS units which may be an advantage for you and that is the short delay before the curcit breaker actually trips on the unit and is supposed to be as for warning purposes, therefore if the actual draw of all your components is lower and that is after the PSU initiates then that's good and will not cause any issues. I found two models on Amazon one is a 1200VA model at 720 watts while the other one is going to be a 2200VA model at 1200 watts which I would recommend more as there is a chance that that the breaker on the 720 watt one will get tripped too soon for the PSU to be initiated and will offer a lot less run-time than the 2200VA at max load of 1200 watts model which I will provide a link to both of these units within this post. Both of these are line-interactive units which should condition the power with their AVR. Although, I would really recommend getting the larger capacity one just to be safe that there is enough power able to be supplied and there is still some head room for other devices like your monitor.

 

links to the aforementioned products within this post:

https://www.amazon.de/POWERWALKER-Schuko-2200VA-1200W-Line-Interactive/dp/B00NC5EEZM/ref=sr_1_93?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1546280556&sr=1-93&keywords=UPS (the 1200 watt model)

 

https://www.amazon.de/Bluewalker-PowerWalker-AVR-1200-Spannungsregler/dp/B005GQTGD0/ref=sr_1_8?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1546280476&sr=1-8&keywords=UPS   (the 720 watt model)

[DadouXIII]

1 hour ago, Boomwebsearch said:

This one has a good Voltage Amp capacity of 1400 although for wattage it can only handle 700 watts. Your 750 watt PSU just at the point when it is going to pull full load to initiate is going to most likely trip the internal overload reset circuit breaker on the UPS and sound an continuous alarm. There is one feature on UPS units which may be an advantage for you and that is the short delay before the curcit breaker actually trips on the unit and is supposed to be as for warning purposes, therefore if the actual draw of all your components is lower and that is after the PSU initiates then that's good and will not cause any issues. I found two models on Amazon one is a 1200VA model at 720 watts while the other one is going to be a 2200VA model at 1200 watts which I would recommend more as there is a chance that that the breaker on the 720 watt one will get tripped too soon for the PSU to be initiated and will offer a lot less run-time than the 2200VA at max load of 1200 watts model which I will provide a link to both of these units within this post. Both of these are line-interactive units which should condition the power with their AVR. Although, I would really recommend getting the larger capacity one just to be safe that there is enough power able to be supplied and there is still some head room for other devices like your monitor.

 

links to the aforementioned products within this post:

https://www.amazon.de/POWERWALKER-Schuko-2200VA-1200W-Line-Interactive/dp/B00NC5EEZM/ref=sr_1_93?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1546280556&sr=1-93&keywords=UPS (the 1200 watt model)

 

https://www.amazon.de/Bluewalker-PowerWalker-AVR-1200-Spannungsregler/dp/B005GQTGD0/ref=sr_1_8?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1546280476&sr=1-8&keywords=UPS   (the 720 watt model)

Does the Powerwalker one also have surge protection and AVR? would you recommend it more than the 700w one I liked above? They are similar prices.

Is the Powerwalker brand reliable?

 

Oh and does it have the warranty thing you were talking about?

[Boomwebsearch]

16 minutes ago, DadouXIII said:

Does the Powerwalker one also have surge protection and AVR? would you recommend it more than the 700w one I liked above? They are similar prices.

Is the Powerwalker brand reliable?

The PowerWalker units which I have linked both protect against surges and have an AVR. I would definitely recommend that 2200VA model more than the APC one which you linked above, because even they are within the similar range when it comes to the price there is going to be a lot better run-time with the PowerWalker unit and it is going to be able to handle greater load which I would suggest is better because when you have many devices plugged in additionally to this machine such as a monitor or set of them, the power draw would be a lot higher than 700 watts and then you risk having the overload which could trip the unit's circuit breaker. This should have your electronics protected from any damages, if the voltage does surge then it will use the regulator to lower it to a 240V for your devices. The APC UPS which you had linked only goes up-to 1400VA which in comparison to 2200VA makes this PowerWalker a better value for the money, also. They should be pretty reliable from what I have read in the reviews and they have batteries which are user replaceable and have the fans on the unit only turn on when on battery which means no sound from the unit during normal and not on battery operation. Looks like that they are a really good option in terms of the value units. You should not encounter any issues with this unit in terms of the voltage amount needed for your electronics; I really doubt that you would need to go to the higher 3000VA model which is a lot more expensive as you will most likely not be able to get to like even 75 percent of the load capacity on those ones with this system and the average monitor or even set of them. This unit can charge its batteries fully in 4 hours which is really good for a UPS as most take around 6-10 hours to recharge. The batteries seem to be general purpose batteries which are a set of 12V/9Ah batteries which are from PowerWalker, although when they need replacing any other compatible 12V/9Ah should work fine. These can also surge protect your other lines such as Ethernet networking connections. The one which I use for my networking, NAS, and my PC is the CyberPower LX1500GU unit which is another really good option. Although, I was not able to find one specific for your region. If you really want a lot of protection for your system then have the surge protector plugged into the UPS and then connect your PC to the strip. That way you have both guaranteed surge protection and AVR, the user manual did not say against it and since this unit only uses its AVR for over-voltage I would not consider it daisy-chaining units because only one actually uses MOVs. Will link the link for the user guild and this product on their site for reference purposes.  I actually think that using a power strip and a UPS with AVR and not MOVs is best as most of the ones I have seen will not tell you when their MOVs are not working properly anymore. In the case of an outage it should give you plenty of run-time and if you had something open and did not save it then their software can shutdown your machine safely and save when it comes to low battery remaining. I know that these units are quite expensive although I would recommend having one on your system for protection against power uncertainties and loss of data potentially.

 

resource links for this PowerWalker UPS for reference purposes:

https://powerwalker.com/?lang=en&page=product&item=10120098

https://powerwalker.com/manuals/Line-Interactive/PowerWalker VI 650-850-1200-2200 SH(L).pdf

 

Spoiler

Disclosure statement: The recommendations of products which I make are solely my opinion (includes experience with certain products) and research based recommendations; I am not an affiliate with any manufacturer of UPS units, batteries, PSUs, or the PC hardware/accessories industry or any of their distribution units.

 

[DadouXIII]

45 minutes ago, Boomwebsearch said:

The PowerWalker units which I have linked both protect against surges and have an AVR. I would definitely recommend that 2200VA model more than the APC one which you linked above, because even they are within the similar range when it comes to the price there is going to be a lot better run-time with the PowerWalker unit and it is going to be able to handle greater load which I would suggest is better because when you have many devices plugged in additionally to this machine such as a monitor or set of them, the power draw would be a lot higher than 700 watts and then you risk having the overload which could trip the unit's circuit breaker. This should have your electronics protected from any damages, if the voltage does surge then it will use the regulator to lower it to a 240V for your devices. The APC UPS which you had linked only goes up-to 1400VA which in comparison to 2200VA makes this PowerWalker a better value for the money, also. They should be pretty reliable from what I have read in the reviews and they have batteries which are user replaceable and have the fans on the unit only turn on when on battery which means no sound from the unit during normal and not on battery operation. Looks like that they are a really good option in terms of the value units. You should not encounter any issues with this unit in terms of the voltage amount needed for your electronics; I really doubt that you would need to go to the higher 3000VA model which is a lot more expensive as you will most likely not be able to get to like even 75 percent of the load capacity on those ones with this system and the average monitor or even set of them. This unit can charge its batteries fully in 4 hours which is really good for a UPS as most take around 6-10 hours to recharge. The batteries seem to be general purpose batteries which are a set of 12V/9Ah batteries which are from PowerWalker, although when they need replacing any other compatible 12V/9Ah should work fine. These can also surge protect your other lines such as Ethernet networking connections. The one which I use for my networking, NAS, and my PC is the CyberPower LX1500GU unit which is another really good option. Although, I was not able to find one specific for your region. If you really want a lot of protection for your system then have the surge protector plugged into the UPS and then connect your PC to the strip. That way you have both guaranteed surge protection and AVR, the user manual did not say against it and since this unit only uses its AVR for over-voltage I would not consider it daisy-chaining units because only one actually uses MOVs. Will link the link for the user guild and this product on their site for reference purposes.  I actually think that using a power strip and a UPS with AVR and not MOVs is best as most of the ones I have seen will not tell you when their MOVs are not working properly anymore. In the case of an outage it should give you plenty of run-time and if you had something open and did not save it then their software can shutdown your machine safely and save when it comes to low battery remaining. I know that these units are quite expensive although I would recommend having one on your system for protection against power uncertainties and loss of data potentially.

 

resource links for this PowerWalker UPS for reference purposes:

https://powerwalker.com/?lang=en&page=product&item=10120098

https://powerwalker.com/manuals/Line-Interactive/PowerWalker VI 650-850-1200-2200 SH(L).pdf

 

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Disclosure statement: The recommendations of products which I make are solely my opinion (includes experience with certain products) and research based recommendations; I am not an affiliate with any manufacturer of UPS units, batteries, PSUs, or the PC hardware/accessories industry or any of their distribution units.

 

Ok so you're saying that the PSU if hooked up to that UPS, it should turn on without tripping the UPS breaker? And that it will also be surge protected AND get "clean" current?

 

By the way, I tried the PSU in the room with the 16 amp breaker, and it turned on without any problem. I think we are certain now that the issue is from the RM750i unitial power intake, that is much higher than that of the RM750, and that is too much for the 10amp breaker.

[Boomwebsearch]

10 minutes ago, DadouXIII said:

Ok so you're saying that the PSU if hooked up to that UPS, it should turn on without tripping the UPS breaker?

Yes, you PSU plugged into this UPS should definitely not trip the internal breaker of this UPS. Your electronics connected to the unit will receive clean and consistent electrical power from this unit and be protected from the surges plus brownouts possible in electrical current flow which could damage computer hardware and connected equipment. This PowerWalker unit definitely has more capacity than you will be drawing even at full load with your PSU and even with the additional load from a regular monitor or multi-monitor setup as well, although remember that the more things you plug in under the max load available (before it would trip its circuit breaker), the less run-time will be available. 

10 minutes ago, DadouXIII said:

I tried the PSU in the room with the 16 amp breaker, and it turned on without any problem

 

10 minutes ago, DadouXIII said:

that is too much for the 10amp breaker.

Okay, that makes sense because your house's breaker is probably being overloaded.

[DadouXIII]

7 hours ago, Stefan Payne said:

You don't need to wait for the surge protector. As that is not really the device you want.

I'd just test it in the Bathroom with the 16A Breaker you have there...

I did today, and the breaker did not trip.

Looks like it's indeed what you though: I think we are certain now that the issue is from the RM750i initial power intake, that is much higher than that of the RM750, and that is too much for the 10amp breaker.

The 16amp breaker handled it fine

Thank you so much for the support.

 

Now I should probably buy a proper UPS.

 

15 minutes ago, Boomwebsearch said:

Yes, you PSU plugged into this UPS should definitely not trip the internal breaker of this UPS. Your electronics connected to the unit will receive clean and consistent electrical power from this unit and be protected from the surges plus brownouts possible in electrical current flow which could damage computer hardware and connected equipment. This PowerWalker unit definitely has more capacity than you will be drawing even at full load with your PSU and even with the additional load from a regular monitor or multi-monitor setup as well, although remember that the more things you plug in under the max load available (before it would trip its circuit breaker), the less run-time will be available. 

Thank you very much for the recommendation.