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Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo, is the backplate required?

0pTicaL
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First off, this is probably my 100+ time installing this cooler, however recently when trying to install the backplate on a MSI Z370I GAMING PRO CARBON AC the backplate's top right and bottom right corners will not lie flush on the motherboard because solder is in the way.

 

I have never tried this before, but is it safe to install install the CPU cooler without the backplate? Anyone from Cooler Master or experience with this widely used CPU cooler have experience with installing this cooler WITHOUT a backplate?

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It works fine, but you may want to put tape on the part of the nut that touches the motherboard to prevent scratches.

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The backplate is kinda only way to get tight and secure mounting. Can you post pic of the issue?

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On the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo the screws extend far enough for the backplate to be held in place by the bolts, it does not affect how tight the cooler is mounted on the CPU side. Initially I used a MSI Z270I GAMING PRO CARBON AC that is not compatible with Coffee Lake CPUs, I switched to a MSI Z370I GAMING PRO CARBON AC that is compatible, but encounter the same issue. I'm also troubleshooting this on MSI's forums to see exactly which red light flashes when I press the power button.

 

Just to be clear, the system does not turn on at all, I press the power button, all the fans spin for a few seconds and it fails to power on.

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On 12/27/2018 at 7:02 AM, 0pTicaL said:

On the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo the screws extend far enough for the backplate to be held in place by the bolts, it does not affect how tight the cooler is mounted on the CPU side. Initially I used a MSI Z270I GAMING PRO CARBON AC that is not compatible with Coffee Lake CPUs, I switched to a MSI Z370I GAMING PRO CARBON AC that is compatible, but encounter the same issue. I'm also troubleshooting this on MSI's forums to see exactly which red light flashes when I press the power button.

 

Just to be clear, the system does not turn on at all, I press the power button, all the fans spin for a few seconds and it fails to power on.

The back side of backplate should be covered in soft material which prevents backplate shorting anything. This might be the issue. Make sure you don't have any exposed metal parts touching each other. (I'm sure this is for nothing, since you are experienced builder. But just make sure all power connectors are tight and clicked in, on both sides if you are using modular PSU. And remember the CPU power cable at top).

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On 12/28/2018 at 3:36 AM, LoGiCalDrm said:

The back side of backplate should be covered in soft material which prevents backplate shorting anything. This might be the issue. Make sure you don't have any exposed metal parts touching each other. (I'm sure this is for nothing, since you are experienced builder. But just make sure all power connectors are tight and clicked in, on both sides if you are using modular PSU. And remember the CPU power cable at top).

I've decided to switch CPU coolers (Noctua NH-L12S), when it arrives I'll report back the results.

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The backplate is what spreads even pressure across the covered area to prevent damaging the PCB. More surface area means less pressure on any one point. If the new cooler doesn't work, at least pick up some very large washers.

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The master air maker is a better cooler I would get that. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 1/5/2019 at 4:28 AM, JRzoid said:

The master air maker is a better cooler I would get that. 

Took a look at Cooler Master's MasterAir RAM clearance based off their MA410P model, it only has 36.1mm RAM clearance, shifting the fan 8mm up isn't really a option.

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