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You've heard of the Oven method, now get ready for

Fasauceome
21 minutes ago, firelighter487 said:

good. 

 

i was just trying to warn you... 

Given it's been in the freezer a good few times over the last three years the owner probably isn't too concerned so I'll see if I can change his mind.

Also he said there's probably an SSD in there from when he wanted to speed things up so that makes this whole situation with the freezer even more bizarre

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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One thing you guys are forgetting is batteries rely on a chemical reaction to function. That reaction is slowed or almost stopped in sub zero (Centigrade). As a consequence the battery is less willing to discharge but actually increases the endurance of the battery because that chemical reaction is slowed.

 

The only problem is when you try to charge those batteries when they're cold is it may damage the life of the battery.  Which doesn't result in anything bad except for batteries that cease to hold a useable charge. 

 

So TL; DR; just warm up the batteries to room temperature before charging and you will have no issue.

CPU: Intel i7 - 5820k @ 4.5GHz, Cooler: Corsair H80i, Motherboard: MSI X99S Gaming 7, RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB DDR4 2666MHz CL16,

GPU: ASUS GTX 980 Strix, Case: Corsair 900D, PSU: Corsair AX860i 860W, Keyboard: Logitech G19, Mouse: Corsair M95, Storage: Intel 730 Series 480GB SSD, WD 1.5TB Black

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1 hour ago, trag1c said:

just warm up the batteries to room temperature before charging and you will have no issue.

That's probably why it's been fine for this long. 

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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6 minutes ago, fasauceome said:

That's probably why it's been fine for this long. 

Ya it's not a big deal. I've been running a lithium battery in my Nissan 350z that I take out occasionally in the winter for some less than legal fun in far colder than what a freezer would be. Even then sometimes I have to do some repair work to vehicles outside the shop so my battery powered tools and my laptop with IDS (OBD II reader and diagnostic software) with absolutely 0 issues other than the batteries don't last quite as long.

CPU: Intel i7 - 5820k @ 4.5GHz, Cooler: Corsair H80i, Motherboard: MSI X99S Gaming 7, RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB DDR4 2666MHz CL16,

GPU: ASUS GTX 980 Strix, Case: Corsair 900D, PSU: Corsair AX860i 860W, Keyboard: Logitech G19, Mouse: Corsair M95, Storage: Intel 730 Series 480GB SSD, WD 1.5TB Black

Display: BenQ XL2730Z 2560x1440 144Hz

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