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Acer Predator 300 HEATING up to 95 degrees when playing games.HELP!!

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Hello,

I have an Acer Predator Helios 300  G3-572 i5 7th gen with gtx1060. I use it specifically for playing Rainbow Six Siege. During the gaming session, the CPU & GPU temperatures rise to 95 degrees as stated by the predator sense app that i use to control the fan speeds. the temperatures have been rising a lot recently as compared to a month before which used to be maximum of 85 degrees. i have tried maximum fan speeds (6000rpm), elevating the laptop for the vents to breathe, & also tried using a cooling pad but there was no drop in temperature. Please help.

Thank you.

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So I just read 4 reviews on this particular model.

 

It gets HOT.

 

Even with it being loud, fans turned up, it gets hot.

Google - How to Undervolt Laptops, How to set power limits so it never gets that hot. (Will take time and effort)

Maximums - Asus Z97-K /w i5 4690 Bclk @106.9Mhz * x39 = 4.17Ghz, 8GB of 2600Mhz DDR3,.. Gigabyte GTX970 G1-Gaming @ 1550Mhz

 

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Seeing as you've tried running the fans at full blast and it doesn't make a difference, I'd say there is a bigger issue going on.

It seems this is the more likely culprit as there are others on the acer forums who had to re-paste their system suffering from the same issues as you are and their temps dropped from ~95c to ~65c.

If you're comfortable and have the tools to do so opening the laptop and replacing the thermal interface material between the CPU / GPU and their respective heatsinks with something better like ThermalGrizzly Kryonaut will likely fix the issue. If not, then you should get in touch with Acer support and see what they can do and if it would be covered by warranty; otherwise see if there is a local computer repair service that can help you out or a friend who has the tools a know-how.

- Personal Rig -

i7-4770K / 32GB Corsair DDR3-1600 Dominator Platinum / EVGA RTX 2070 XC Ultra
Gigabyte G1. Sniper 5 / Noctua NH-D15 ThermalTake X71 / EVGA G2 750W / 500GB SSD [RAID 0]


- Desktop Audio Equipment -
ADAM Audio F7's | Cambridge Audio DAC Magic+ w/ Balanced XLR
- Budget Home Theatre Equipment -

Polk RTiA7's | Velodyne DPS-12 | Polk CSi30 Denon AVR-X3500H

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11 hours ago, KnightSirius said:

Seeing as you've tried running the fans at full blast and it doesn't make a difference, I'd say there is a bigger issue going on.

It seems this is the more likely culprit as there are others on the acer forums who had to re-paste their system suffering from the same issues as you are and their temps dropped from ~95c to ~65c.

If you're comfortable and have the tools to do so opening the laptop and replacing the thermal interface material between the CPU / GPU and their respective heatsinks with something better like ThermalGrizzly Kryonaut will likely fix the issue. If not, then you should get in touch with Acer support and see what they can do and if it would be covered by warranty; otherwise see if there is a local computer repair service that can help you out or a friend who has the tools a know-how.

Thank you for the reply!

Its still in warranty, so I think I will get in touch with Acer service center and see if they can help fix the issue. Would cleaning the fan do any good?

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11 hours ago, SkilledRebuilds said:

So I just read 4 reviews on this particular model.

 

It gets HOT.

 

Even with it being loud, fans turned up, it gets hot.

Google - How to Undervolt Laptops, How to set power limits so it never gets that hot. (Will take time and effort)

thank you for the reply.

I agree that it gets hot, but recently as I mentioned its getting way hotter than expected. Like, can't touch the keyboard hot. I will look into the options you suggested.

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On 12/12/2018 at 2:25 PM, KnightSirius said:

Seeing as you've tried running the fans at full blast and it doesn't make a difference, I'd say there is a bigger issue going on.

It seems this is the more likely culprit as there are others on the acer forums who had to re-paste their system suffering from the same issues as you are and their temps dropped from ~95c to ~65c.

If you're comfortable and have the tools to do so opening the laptop and replacing the thermal interface material between the CPU / GPU and their respective heatsinks with something better like ThermalGrizzly Kryonaut will likely fix the issue. If not, then you should get in touch with Acer support and see what they can do and if it would be covered by warranty; otherwise see if there is a local computer repair service that can help you out or a friend who has the tools a know-how.

I asked the Acer Service Center if they can repaste it for me as it's in warranty and they said they will do it but with Acer provided thermal paste. Also, the CPU temperatures are now reaching a maximum of 99 degrees, which is getting really hot and fps drops!

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2 minutes ago, dr.pranav said:

 

I asked the Acer Service Center if they can repaste it for me as it's in warranty and they said they will do it but with Acer provided thermal paste. Also, the CPU temperatures are now reaching a maximum of 99 degrees, which is getting really hot and fps drops!

That is good news, hopefully this will fix the problem!

- Personal Rig -

i7-4770K / 32GB Corsair DDR3-1600 Dominator Platinum / EVGA RTX 2070 XC Ultra
Gigabyte G1. Sniper 5 / Noctua NH-D15 ThermalTake X71 / EVGA G2 750W / 500GB SSD [RAID 0]


- Desktop Audio Equipment -
ADAM Audio F7's | Cambridge Audio DAC Magic+ w/ Balanced XLR
- Budget Home Theatre Equipment -

Polk RTiA7's | Velodyne DPS-12 | Polk CSi30 Denon AVR-X3500H

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just to add my two cents here. I also own one of those predator helios 300 and it did run quite hot while gaming. I've been through lots of forum posts with quite some different solutions, such as repasting, undervolting, and so on... but one idea in particular was different. There was one guy who suggested to turn off the processor turbo boost, and he provided a script to help doing so.

 

I took this leap and well, it actually helped a lot. My Predator used to run at 88-92ºC while playing heavy games, and around 74-76-ish while playing some older games. After I turned off turbo boost it never went past 78ºC on any games, while it did maintain a very good performance on all of them, I actually couldn't tell if there was a noticeable difference at all on gaming performance.

 

I can provide the script if you're interested. Also, here's my benchmarking results on 3D mark before and after I turned off Turbo Boost: https://www.3dmark.com/compare/fs/17022905/fs/17022531 

 

I may also add that I use this laptop for coding as well, and my compile times are still super fast even without the boost.

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  • 2 months later...

Repaste, liquid metal if you're feeling daring.

Brands I wholeheartedly reccomend (though do have flawed products): Apple, Razer, Corsair, Asus, Gigabyte, bequiet!, Noctua, Fractal, GSkill (RAM only)

Wall Of Fame (Informative people/People I like): @Glenwing @DrMacintosh @Schnoz @TempestCatto @LogicalDrm @Dan Castellaneta

Useful threads: 

How To Make Your Own Cloud Storage

Spoiler

 

Guide to Display Cables/Adapters

Spoiler

 

PSU Tier List (Latest)-

Spoiler

 

 

Main PC: See spoiler tag

Laptop: 2020 iPad Pro 12.9" with Magic Keyboard

Spoiler

PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/gKh8zN

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X 3.8 GHz 12-Core OEM/Tray Processor  (Purchased For $419.99) 
Motherboard: Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Formula ATX AM4 Motherboard  (Purchased For $356.99) 
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  (Purchased For $130.00) 
Storage: Kingston Predator 240 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive  (Purchased For $40.00) 
Storage: Crucial MX300 1.05 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive  (Purchased For $100.00) 
Storage: Western Digital Red 8 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive  (Purchased For $180.00) 
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB WINDFORCE Video Card  (Purchased For $370.00) 
Case: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C ATX Mid Tower Case  (Purchased For $100.00) 
Power Supply: Corsair RMi 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  (Purchased For $120.00) 
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer  (Purchased For $75.00) 
Total: $1891.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-04-02 19:59 EDT-0400

身のなわたしはる果てぞ  悲しわたしはかりけるわたしは

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5 minutes ago, SenpaiKaplan said:

Repaste, liquid metal if you're feeling daring.

No need, MX4 did fine. I apply it yearly and its great!

 

Note I apply yearly because this is my everyday engineering machine 

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1 minute ago, iionas said:

No need, MX4 did fine. I apply it yearly and its great!

 

Note I apply yearly because this is my everyday engineering machine 

Good to hear. I used MX-4 in all my builds for a long time, its solid TIM. I have a 20g tube sitting in my drawer right now, as I build/refurb a lot of systems

Brands I wholeheartedly reccomend (though do have flawed products): Apple, Razer, Corsair, Asus, Gigabyte, bequiet!, Noctua, Fractal, GSkill (RAM only)

Wall Of Fame (Informative people/People I like): @Glenwing @DrMacintosh @Schnoz @TempestCatto @LogicalDrm @Dan Castellaneta

Useful threads: 

How To Make Your Own Cloud Storage

Spoiler

 

Guide to Display Cables/Adapters

Spoiler

 

PSU Tier List (Latest)-

Spoiler

 

 

Main PC: See spoiler tag

Laptop: 2020 iPad Pro 12.9" with Magic Keyboard

Spoiler

PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/gKh8zN

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X 3.8 GHz 12-Core OEM/Tray Processor  (Purchased For $419.99) 
Motherboard: Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Formula ATX AM4 Motherboard  (Purchased For $356.99) 
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  (Purchased For $130.00) 
Storage: Kingston Predator 240 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive  (Purchased For $40.00) 
Storage: Crucial MX300 1.05 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive  (Purchased For $100.00) 
Storage: Western Digital Red 8 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive  (Purchased For $180.00) 
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB WINDFORCE Video Card  (Purchased For $370.00) 
Case: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C ATX Mid Tower Case  (Purchased For $100.00) 
Power Supply: Corsair RMi 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  (Purchased For $120.00) 
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer  (Purchased For $75.00) 
Total: $1891.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-04-02 19:59 EDT-0400

身のなわたしはる果てぞ  悲しわたしはかりけるわたしは

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Just now, SenpaiKaplan said:

Good to hear. I used MX-4 in all my builds for a long time, its solid TIM. I have a 20g tube sitting in my drawer right now, as I build/refurb a lot of systems

I tried on total recommendation and tbh its an absolute killer. I wasnt game to do liquid metal. 

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  • 1 year later...
On 12/12/2018 at 3:55 AM, KnightSirius said:

Seeing as you've tried running the fans at full blast and it doesn't make a difference, I'd say there is a bigger issue going on.

It seems this is the more likely culprit as there are others on the acer forums who had to re-paste their system suffering from the same issues as you are and their temps dropped from ~95c to ~65c.

If you're comfortable and have the tools to do so opening the laptop and replacing the thermal interface material between the CPU / GPU and their respective heatsinks with something better like ThermalGrizzly Kryonaut will likely fix the issue. If not, then you should get in touch with Acer support and see what they can do and if it would be covered by warranty; otherwise see if there is a local computer repair service that can help you out or a friend who has the tools a know-how.

i have the 2018 model i have re pasted it and undervalued it by 140 mlv i have also bought a cooling pad and cleaned out the fans/grills i have set the max power for the processor to 70% i have probably tried re pasting this laptop 4 times nothing changes. on idle its 50 to 60 sometimes it goes up to 80 while gaming a couple seconds in to the CSGO main menu it is already at 92+ i have owned this laptop for over a year now i dont know what to do wasted 1000 dollars? which took me 4 years to save up for  i used noctua NT-H2 for re pasting i hope someone can help here 

 

the laptop feels hot but not 95 degrees hot maybe the heat sensor is broken or something? something that has to do with windows maybe? i have no idea 

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8 hours ago, ArabianBoi1259 said:

i have the 2018 model i have re pasted it and undervalued it by 140 mlv i have also bought a cooling pad and cleaned out the fans/grills i have set the max power for the processor to 70% i have probably tried re pasting this laptop 4 times nothing changes. on idle its 50 to 60 sometimes it goes up to 80 while gaming a couple seconds in to the CSGO main menu it is already at 92+ i have owned this laptop for over a year now i dont know what to do wasted 1000 dollars? which took me 4 years to save up for  i used noctua NT-H2 for re pasting i hope someone can help here 

 

the laptop feels hot but not 95 degrees hot maybe the heat sensor is broken or something? something that has to do with windows maybe? i have no idea 

Welcome to the forums! Just a note since you are new it's generally not recommended to 'necro' (revive) a thread as old as this one. Always make new posts so your topic actually has a chance to be seen by others. If you're thinking of necroing an old thread simply include a link to it in a new post so people can see you've put the effort into searching and what you found; so that we're all on the same page.

That aside, I honestly don't have any good news for you. You've tried everything I could have recommended. It could certainly be a faulty/misreporting sensor but you can't know for sure unless you get your own thermal probe under the IHS of the chip (or wherever the original probe is located). That's tedious and probably won't be very enlightening.

Only option left is get on with Acer support and try to find somebody who understands the technical aspect to the degree you do and explain the situation. Best outcome is you're under warranty still and they repair or replace it. However, this is unlikely and considering the world is basically shut down at the moment you will probably be waiting a long time just to talk to them.

I know how it feels to save up for something that long and have it fail, buyer's remorse sucks. Your best option is just run it into the ground and get the most out of it, you've done what you can. The only true resolution to this problem is to upgrade when you can to something reliable and more easily user serviceable.

As most on the forum would, I'd recommend a desktop if possible and they can be built quite cheap there is a lot of information on this forum and the internet on how to do this efficiently. On the flip side if you require a laptop they're only getting better and cheaper especially with AMD really pushing the limits of laptop processing power.

- Personal Rig -

i7-4770K / 32GB Corsair DDR3-1600 Dominator Platinum / EVGA RTX 2070 XC Ultra
Gigabyte G1. Sniper 5 / Noctua NH-D15 ThermalTake X71 / EVGA G2 750W / 500GB SSD [RAID 0]


- Desktop Audio Equipment -
ADAM Audio F7's | Cambridge Audio DAC Magic+ w/ Balanced XLR
- Budget Home Theatre Equipment -

Polk RTiA7's | Velodyne DPS-12 | Polk CSi30 Denon AVR-X3500H

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