What is the best seal for leaking radiator?

[WhiteSkyMage]

Hey guys,

I have a small issue with my rad. It leaks droplets from one of the corners. I dont want to possibly avoid deal with RMA, so can i seal it with an epoxy like JB Weld? It is an EK 120mm EP.

Which epoxy is best for use in this case?

[aisle9]

RMA it. If it's leaking and within the RMA period, RMA it. I would not take chances on that.

[spiteful]

Flex tape

[Enderman]

Don't....

Stop using it immediately and get a new one or RMA.

[KarathKasun]

Aluminum devcon.  You have to strip the area of paint first, and you need to find the exact place its leaking from to patch it.

[WhiteSkyMage]

3 minutes ago, KarathKasun said:

Aluminum devcon.  You have to strip the area of paint first, and you need to find the exact place its leaking from to patch it.

Yeah, well i found the place but why strip off the paint? You know... RMA it is... Its such a pain with watercooling darn it...

[KarathKasun]

7 minutes ago, WhiteSkyMage said:

Yeah, well i found the place but why strip off the paint? You know... RMA it is... Its such a pain with watercooling darn it...

Pant keeps your patch job from sticking.

[Mick Naughty]

Think I used window sealant on one of mine. Only clear silicone I had.

[andrewmp6]

The cost to repair it right will cost more then the shipping on a rma for it.I would rma it and throw on a air cooler if you got one.If not buy the cheapest one that will work for you tell you get the new aio shipped to you.

[KarathKasun]

1 hour ago, Mick Naughty said:

Think I used window sealant on one of mine. Only clear silicone I had.

Silicone will eventually leak again.  It is not great for holding the pressure that develops with warm coolant.

[Mick Naughty]

5 minutes ago, KarathKasun said:

Silicone will eventually leak again.  It is not great for holding the pressure that develops with warm coolant.

Well there isn't any pressure. That's what the breather is for.

[MandicReally]

6 hours ago, Mick Naughty said:

Well there isn't any pressure. That's what the breather is for.

Breather? You are running a breather vent? How much does your water evaporate? I'd be concerned about bacterial growth with an "open" system like that. 

The only time I've ever had a system "open" while water cooling was running an evaporative cooler back in the day, and that was just the point.

[Neo-revo]

33 minutes ago, MandicReally said:

Breather? You are running a breather vent? How much does your water evaporate? I'd be concerned about bacterial growth with an "open" system like that. 

The only time I've ever had a system "open" while water cooling was running an evaporative cooler back in the day, and that was just the point.

if he is using what i am thinking it s likely a g 1/4  plug that acts as a pressure valve.   like the emergency valve on the side of the stove-top espresso makers so incase you pack the coffee into the dish too tight the thing doesn't explode like a boiler on a runaway cycle.   (but not rated for high pressure, just the pressure's associated with a closed loop water system)

 

@WhiteSkyMage  there are a lot of options that exist for you if you don't end up going the RMA route (BUT this is honestly the best route if you can)

 

-Epoxy- they all vary but most become water tight after cured.  Aquatic-epoxy are meant for boats and other places where it is hard or not possible to keep dry for an extended period.   Mostly just follow the provided instructions. Keep in mind the faster the cure time the less time you can activly work with any parts you need to move/coat; but you dont need to wait a whole day to 'test it'.

 

-Baking soda and super glue method:  For the real scientists out there.   the soda makes a super instant catalyst reaction  that makes a plasticized coating  When liquid super glue is dripped onto the soda.  (application methods vary but i think perhaps this may be one of the best DIY rad repair solutions) 

 

-I personally have used gorilla glue (the foaming poly-ethylene variety)  its not pretty.   but its water tight...

 

   ASSUMING A LOT OF THINGS,  mostly the holes you have are not developing from some sort of reaction from the inside (corrosion)  and or trying to fix them (not large holes)  wont likely restrict water flow...  filling rad tubes/chamber inadvertently

 

 

 

[WhiteSkyMage]

3 hours ago, Neo-revo said:

if he is using what i am thinking it s likely a g 1/4  plug that acts as a pressure valve.   like the emergency valve on the side of the stove-top espresso makers so incase you pack the coffee into the dish too tight the thing doesn't explode like a boiler on a runaway cycle.   (but not rated for high pressure, just the pressure's associated with a closed loop water system)

 

@WhiteSkyMage  there are a lot of options that exist for you if you don't end up going the RMA route (BUT this is honestly the best route if you can)

 

-Epoxy- they all vary but most become water tight after cured.  Aquatic-epoxy are meant for boats and other places where it is hard or not possible to keep dry for an extended period.   Mostly just follow the provided instructions. Keep in mind the faster the cure time the less time you can activly work with any parts you need to move/coat; but you dont need to wait a whole day to 'test it'.

 

-Baking soda and super glue method:  For the real scientists out there.   the soda makes a super instant catalyst reaction  that makes a plasticized coating  When liquid super glue is dripped onto the soda.  (application methods vary but i think perhaps this may be one of the best DIY rad repair solutions) 

 

-I personally have used gorilla glue (the foaming poly-ethylene variety)  its not pretty.   but its water tight...

 

   ASSUMING A LOT OF THINGS,  mostly the holes you have are not developing from some sort of reaction from the inside (corrosion)  and or trying to fix them (not large holes)  wont likely restrict water flow...  filling rad tubes/chamber inadvertently

 

 

 

I have never RMAed an item before, and since I bought this EK rad from a re-seller, I am not sure if I will have my return refunded.

That's why I thought there may be a way around it using an epoxy. The rad is great, it fits perfectly. I used the screws that EK provided. I currently have put a Glue tag around the corner it leaks so now it's fine, but this is not a permanent solution - It may fall after a few weeks/months. I can try and RMA it but I will be without RAD and i will have to have my system open while waiting... They take time to arrive.

Is there no epoxy I can just apply on the outside, stop the leak and no worry about it? Like this for example?

[Neo-revo]

thats what i say saying..  read the specs, make sure its waterproof afterwards.

 

Just be advised if you do go the RMA route any thing you do it to it has to be 100% removable that way you can send it as original state.

 

Therefore if you do use an epoxy or some other DIY solution you may be removing your chance of RMA.  but RMA also depends on the return policy of your re-seller (some companys allow direct RMA in certain cases)

 

JB-weld would work if you wanted a permanent solution. i would how ever do it while its not installed and is 'dry'

[WhiteSkyMage]

Just now, Neo-revo said:

thats what i say saying..  read the specs, make sure its waterproof afterwards.

 

Just be advised if you do go the RMA route any thing you do it to it has to be 100% removable that way you can send it as original state.

 

Therefore if you do use an epoxy or some other DIY solution you may be removing your chance of RMA.  but RMA also depends on the return policy of your re-seller (some companys allow direct RMA in certain cases)

 

JB-weld would work if you wanted a permanent solution. i would how ever do it while its not installed and is 'dry'

Well I will order another radiator then and when it comes, I will try to RMA this one... It just seems like the best option. If the worst comes to the worst, I will only loose $60. 

[Neo-revo]

Just now, WhiteSkyMage said:

I will try to RMA this one... It just seems like the best option. If the worst comes to the worst, I will only loose $60.  

not  a bad thought.  that way you get cross shipping action.  Perhaps read on the EK- warranty policy and contact them, or oyur re-seller in the mean time if they state you need to deal with the retailer.

[WhiteSkyMage]

Just now, Neo-revo said:

not  a bad thought.  that way you get cross shipping action.  Perhaps read on the EK- warranty policy and contact them, or oyur re-seller in the mean time if they state you need to deal with the retailer.

I can get straight to the shop, however, before I unmount my radiator, I will buy a new one so I can mount it back and then deal with the RMA.

[Neo-revo]

Just now, WhiteSkyMage said:

I can get straight to the shop, however, before I unmount my radiator, I will buy a new one so I can mount it back and then deal with the RMA.

solid plan.  So before you get to invested into the repair, do you mind listing all the named parts in your loop

 

(cpu block, etc)  that way i can just be certain that there isn't a potential reaction going on as well

[WhiteSkyMage]

Just now, Neo-revo said:

solid plan.  So before you get to invested into the repair, do you mind listing all the named parts in your loop

 

(cpu block, etc)  that way i can just be certain that there isn't a potential reaction going on as well

Well I have the H240X AIO cooler (from Swiftech - includes rad/pump/res combo+waterblock) on top, going to my CPU Waterblock (Epogee XL), Going to my 120mm rad from EK (PE), to my GPU (FC WB from EK) then to another 240mm radiator from MagiCool and back up to H240X. it's all Copper/bronze. I am using EK's clear CRYOFUEL.

[Neo-revo]

1 minute ago, WhiteSkyMage said:

Well I have the H240X AIO cooler (from Swiftech - includes rad/pump/res combo+waterblock) on top, going to my CPU Waterblock (Epogee XL), Going to my 120mm rad from EK (PE), to my GPU (FC WB from EK) then to another 240mm radiator from MagiCool and back up to H240X. it's all Copper/bronze. I am using EK's clear CRYOFUEL.

yea seems like you did that research well, i don't even have to look up something to confirm that you are safe that ways.

 

So at this point i would call it a manufacturing defect. and hopefully they don't try to pin it on you as end user error (gross mishandling or something)

[Mick Naughty]

They should all have been pressure tested. Did you use the wrong screw somewhere and puncture it? If its leaking, youll have to take the shell off to ensure you could even find the leak. Did you check the extensions to ensure they were tight?

[WhiteSkyMage]

Just now, Neo-revo said:

yea seems like you did that research well, i don't even have to look up something to confirm that you are safe that ways.

 

So at this point i would call it a manufacturing defect. and hopefully they don't try to pin it on you as end user error (gross mishandling or something)

yeah hopefully not. I know what I'm doing, however it's a shame I didn't notice the radiator leak until i didn't mount it. I am not sure how long this glue tag will hold so I will order a new radiator today.

[WhiteSkyMage]

Just now, Mick Naughty said:

They should all have been pressure tested. Did you use the wrong screw somewhere and puncture it? If its leaking, youll have to take the shell off to ensure you could even find the leak. Did you check the extensions to ensure they were tight?

I used the screws provided by EK. It's leaking from the corner, not from where the screws are. I was able to stop the leak using a Glue tag from the outside.. 

Here: 

 

This is the exact same leak I have... but mine is PE 120, not SE 240.

 

[Mick Naughty]

Again, the leak would be on the inside, putting something on the outside wont do anything. Even using the screws it came with can cause and issue, which is what im talking about. Did you check the extensions?