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New build shuts down after a short time

RollTime
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As title mentioned, just finished my new build. Specs:

8086k

H100i V2

Strix z370 E

16GB tridentZ ram

Strix GTX 1080

EVGA Supernova G3 750w.

 

Upon pressing the power button, everything seems normal. All components turn on, status light on mobo is green, etc. Posts fine and bios seems to be working. Cpu temps are 29C so that’s not the issue. After about 30-60 seconds it shuts down. It’s not controlled, the system just stops entirely all at once. The motherboard’s power light never turns off, so I doubt this is a PSU or shorting issue. The one thing I can see that’s wrong is that the mobo’s rgb zone doesn’t light. Here’s a video of the whole thing from start to end:

 

Some things I’ve already tried:

swapping power cord/outlets

booting from one ram stick (tried both)

booting on iGpu

Switching PSU off and then on again

disconnecting hard drive

disconnecting power button and shorting pins manually

 

 

I’m hoping I’m missing something obvious here. If needed I guess I can test all the components but that would be very time-consuming. Its currently 3 am and I’ve been working on this for 8 or so hours, so hoping for a quick solution.

 

 

import shittyTechAdvice as RollTime

 

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Unplug the PSU from the wall, then hold down the power button for 30 seconds or so. Plug it back in and start it up. This will reset the BIOS, never a bad place to start. Are you able to get into windows? Does it stay on the post screen? Are you in the BIOS?

My Build, v2.1 --- CPU: i7-8700K @ 5.2GHz/1.288v || MoBo: Asus ROG STRIX Z390-E Gaming || RAM: 4x4GB G.SKILL Ripjaws 4 2666 14-14-14-33 || Cooler: Custom Loop || GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 Ti SC Black, on water || PSU: EVGA G2 850W || Case: Corsair 450D || SSD: 850 Evo 250GB, Intel 660p 2TB || Storage: WD Blue 2TB || G502 & Glorious PCGR Fully Custom 80% Keyboard || MX34VQ, PG278Q, PB278Q

Audio --- Headphones: Massdrop x Sennheiser HD 6XX || Amp: Schiit Audio Magni 3 || DAC: Schiit Audio Modi 3 || Mic: Blue Yeti

 

[Under Construction]

 

My Truck --- 2002 F-350 7.3 Powerstroke || 6-speed

My Car --- 2006 Mustang GT || 5-speed || BBK LTs, O/R X, MBRP Cat-back || BBK Lowering Springs, LCAs || 2007 GT500 wheels w/ 245s/285s

 

The Experiment --- CPU: i5-3570K @ 4.0 GHz || MoBo: Asus P8Z77-V LK || RAM: 16GB Corsair 1600 4x4 || Cooler: CM Hyper 212 Evo || GPUs: Asus GTX 750 Ti, || PSU: Corsair TX750M Gold || Case: Thermaltake Core G21 TG || SSD: 840 Pro 128GB || HDD: Seagate Barracuda 2TB

 

R.I.P. Asus X99-A motherboard, April 2016 - October 2018, may you rest in peace. 5820K, if I ever buy you a new board, it'll be a good one.

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7 hours ago, Cereal5 said:

Unplug the PSU from the wall, then hold down the power button for 30 seconds or so. Plug it back in and start it up. This will reset the BIOS, never a bad place to start. Are you able to get into windows? Does it stay on the post screen? Are you in the BIOS?

I’ll try that.

I haven’t installed Windows, since it quits before the install even starts

I can get into the BIOS completely normally, click around and change settings, etc. 

 

import shittyTechAdvice as RollTime

 

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@Cereal5

Tried the BIOS reset, no change.

 

I have noticed something strange. I left the PC overnight and it ran for quite a while (5mins) before shutdown. Then back to normal times. The issue seems to take longer to occur based on the time between shutdowns, leading me to think it might have to do with either overheating or some kind of battery that charges. I don’t know what could be overheating, CPU temps are around 30C. Its possible the CMOS battery could be faulty but I have no idea whether that could cause a shutdown or not.

import shittyTechAdvice as RollTime

 

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27 minutes ago, RollTime said:

@Cereal5

Tried the BIOS reset, no change.

 

I have noticed something strange. I left the PC overnight and it ran for quite a while (5mins) before shutdown. Then back to normal times. The issue seems to take longer to occur based on the time between shutdowns, leading me to think it might have to do with either overheating or some kind of battery that charges. I don’t know what could be overheating, CPU temps are around 30C. Its possible the CMOS battery could be faulty but I have no idea whether that could cause a shutdown or not.

It wouldn't. How are GPU temps? I suspect GPU or PSU failure...

Brands I wholeheartedly reccomend (though do have flawed products): Apple, Razer, Corsair, Asus, Gigabyte, bequiet!, Noctua, Fractal, GSkill (RAM only)

Wall Of Fame (Informative people/People I like): @Glenwing @DrMacintosh @Schnoz @TempestCatto @LogicalDrm @Dan Castellaneta

Useful threads: 

How To Make Your Own Cloud Storage

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Guide to Display Cables/Adapters

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PSU Tier List (Latest)-

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Main PC: See spoiler tag

Laptop: 2020 iPad Pro 12.9" with Magic Keyboard

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PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/gKh8zN

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X 3.8 GHz 12-Core OEM/Tray Processor  (Purchased For $419.99) 
Motherboard: Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Formula ATX AM4 Motherboard  (Purchased For $356.99) 
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  (Purchased For $130.00) 
Storage: Kingston Predator 240 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive  (Purchased For $40.00) 
Storage: Crucial MX300 1.05 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive  (Purchased For $100.00) 
Storage: Western Digital Red 8 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive  (Purchased For $180.00) 
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB WINDFORCE Video Card  (Purchased For $370.00) 
Case: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C ATX Mid Tower Case  (Purchased For $100.00) 
Power Supply: Corsair RMi 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  (Purchased For $120.00) 
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer  (Purchased For $75.00) 
Total: $1891.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-04-02 19:59 EDT-0400

身のなわたしはる果てぞ  悲しわたしはかりけるわたしは

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1 minute ago, SenpaiKaplan said:

It wouldn't. How are GPU temps? I suspect GPU or PSU failure...

I have no idea about GPU temps now, but I ran it in my old pc for 2 months with no issues. PSU might be it. 

 

I talked to someone about it irl and they seemed confident it was the mobo, which does seem to be a fairly common part to fail. Second opinion?

import shittyTechAdvice as RollTime

 

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It could be motherboard. Have you tried to flash a new bios? If not do you think you could give it a try, although it's likely one of two things. Your PSU or motherboard. Is there another PSU you could test on the board?

System Specs:

CPU: Ryzen 7 5800X

GPU: Gigabyte RTX 3080 Gaming OC

RAM: 32GB 3600MHz

HDD: 1TB Sabrent NVMe -  WD 1TB Black - WD 2TB Green -  WD 4TB Blue

MB: Gigabyte  B550 Gaming X- RGB Disabled

PSU: ThermalTake 750W Smart BX1 - RGB Disabled

Case: BeQuiet! Silent Base 801 Black

Cooler: DeepCool Castle 360EX

 

 

 

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I have issues believing its the Motherboard unless your VRM temps are through the roof.

Brands I wholeheartedly reccomend (though do have flawed products): Apple, Razer, Corsair, Asus, Gigabyte, bequiet!, Noctua, Fractal, GSkill (RAM only)

Wall Of Fame (Informative people/People I like): @Glenwing @DrMacintosh @Schnoz @TempestCatto @LogicalDrm @Dan Castellaneta

Useful threads: 

How To Make Your Own Cloud Storage

Spoiler

 

Guide to Display Cables/Adapters

Spoiler

 

PSU Tier List (Latest)-

Spoiler

 

 

Main PC: See spoiler tag

Laptop: 2020 iPad Pro 12.9" with Magic Keyboard

Spoiler

PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/gKh8zN

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X 3.8 GHz 12-Core OEM/Tray Processor  (Purchased For $419.99) 
Motherboard: Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Formula ATX AM4 Motherboard  (Purchased For $356.99) 
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  (Purchased For $130.00) 
Storage: Kingston Predator 240 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive  (Purchased For $40.00) 
Storage: Crucial MX300 1.05 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive  (Purchased For $100.00) 
Storage: Western Digital Red 8 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive  (Purchased For $180.00) 
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB WINDFORCE Video Card  (Purchased For $370.00) 
Case: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C ATX Mid Tower Case  (Purchased For $100.00) 
Power Supply: Corsair RMi 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  (Purchased For $120.00) 
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer  (Purchased For $75.00) 
Total: $1891.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-04-02 19:59 EDT-0400

身のなわたしはる果てぞ  悲しわたしはかりけるわたしは

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11 hours ago, SenpaiKaplan said:

I have issues believing its the Motherboard unless your VRM temps are through the roof.

Any thoughts on other possible causes?

import shittyTechAdvice as RollTime

 

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6 hours ago, RollTime said:

Any thoughts on other possible causes?

Well, I still haven't gotten GPU temps (load HWINFO). Even though the card was fine 2 months ago, that doesn't mean it's fine now. It could be a bad GPU, corrupted VBIOS, bad PSU, VRM overheating...

Brands I wholeheartedly reccomend (though do have flawed products): Apple, Razer, Corsair, Asus, Gigabyte, bequiet!, Noctua, Fractal, GSkill (RAM only)

Wall Of Fame (Informative people/People I like): @Glenwing @DrMacintosh @Schnoz @TempestCatto @LogicalDrm @Dan Castellaneta

Useful threads: 

How To Make Your Own Cloud Storage

Spoiler

 

Guide to Display Cables/Adapters

Spoiler

 

PSU Tier List (Latest)-

Spoiler

 

 

Main PC: See spoiler tag

Laptop: 2020 iPad Pro 12.9" with Magic Keyboard

Spoiler

PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/gKh8zN

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X 3.8 GHz 12-Core OEM/Tray Processor  (Purchased For $419.99) 
Motherboard: Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Formula ATX AM4 Motherboard  (Purchased For $356.99) 
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  (Purchased For $130.00) 
Storage: Kingston Predator 240 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive  (Purchased For $40.00) 
Storage: Crucial MX300 1.05 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive  (Purchased For $100.00) 
Storage: Western Digital Red 8 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive  (Purchased For $180.00) 
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB WINDFORCE Video Card  (Purchased For $370.00) 
Case: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C ATX Mid Tower Case  (Purchased For $100.00) 
Power Supply: Corsair RMi 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  (Purchased For $120.00) 
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer  (Purchased For $75.00) 
Total: $1891.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-04-02 19:59 EDT-0400

身のなわたしはる果てぞ  悲しわたしはかりけるわたしは

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1 hour ago, SenpaiKaplan said:

Well, I still haven't gotten GPU temps (load HWINFO). Even though the card was fine 2 months ago, that doesn't mean it's fine now. It could be a bad GPU, corrupted VBIOS, bad PSU, VRM overheating...

I can't get into windows to see HWINFO.

import shittyTechAdvice as RollTime

 

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9 minutes ago, RollTime said:

I can't get into windows to see HWINFO.

If that motherboard has a post code LED, let us know what the 2 digit code is right before it shuts off. If it doesn't have an LED, watch the bottom right of your monitor for the 2 digit code. If you can catch what code it is right before it shuts off, that could really help determine the issue.

I'm leaning towards a bad motherboard too though.

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7 minutes ago, RollTime said:

I can't get into windows to see HWINFO.

Remove your cooler, remove your processor, and check for bent pins or debris in the pins. Then reseat the CPU and cooler. Could be that, I forgot your PC wont even POST

Brands I wholeheartedly reccomend (though do have flawed products): Apple, Razer, Corsair, Asus, Gigabyte, bequiet!, Noctua, Fractal, GSkill (RAM only)

Wall Of Fame (Informative people/People I like): @Glenwing @DrMacintosh @Schnoz @TempestCatto @LogicalDrm @Dan Castellaneta

Useful threads: 

How To Make Your Own Cloud Storage

Spoiler

 

Guide to Display Cables/Adapters

Spoiler

 

PSU Tier List (Latest)-

Spoiler

 

 

Main PC: See spoiler tag

Laptop: 2020 iPad Pro 12.9" with Magic Keyboard

Spoiler

PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/gKh8zN

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X 3.8 GHz 12-Core OEM/Tray Processor  (Purchased For $419.99) 
Motherboard: Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Formula ATX AM4 Motherboard  (Purchased For $356.99) 
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  (Purchased For $130.00) 
Storage: Kingston Predator 240 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive  (Purchased For $40.00) 
Storage: Crucial MX300 1.05 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive  (Purchased For $100.00) 
Storage: Western Digital Red 8 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive  (Purchased For $180.00) 
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB WINDFORCE Video Card  (Purchased For $370.00) 
Case: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C ATX Mid Tower Case  (Purchased For $100.00) 
Power Supply: Corsair RMi 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  (Purchased For $120.00) 
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer  (Purchased For $75.00) 
Total: $1891.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-04-02 19:59 EDT-0400

身のなわたしはる果てぞ  悲しわたしはかりけるわたしは

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16 minutes ago, stateofpsychosis said:

If that motherboard has a post code LED, let us know what the 2 digit code is right before it shuts off. If it doesn't have an LED, watch the bottom right of your monitor for the 2 digit code. If you can catch what code it is right before it shuts off, that could really help determine the issue.

I'm leaning towards a bad motherboard too though.

It doesn't. I can't watch for POST codes because it POSTs fine, the BIOS works and I can even start a windows install if I want. The problem is that it randomly shuts down after a short time. 

 

I'm probably just gonna start the Micro Center warranty process on the mobo anyway, since it's the most likely issue.

import shittyTechAdvice as RollTime

 

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5 minutes ago, RollTime said:

It doesn't. I can't watch for POST codes because it POSTs fine, the BIOS works and I can even start a windows install if I want. The problem is that it randomly shuts down after a short time. 

 

I'm probably just gonna start the Micro Center warranty process on the mobo anyway, since it's the most likely issue.

Oh, you're near a micro center? Just go in and see if they'll let you swap components until you figure out what the problem is. I'm pretty sure they do that. I know some places do anyways.

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1 minute ago, stateofpsychosis said:

Oh, you're near a micro center? Just go in and see if they'll let you swap components until you figure out what the problem is. I'm pretty sure they do that. I know some places do anyways.

They do? I'll ask. I got a lot of the stuff in there from them anyways so might be good.

 

Thanks for the tip!

import shittyTechAdvice as RollTime

 

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34 minutes ago, RollTime said:

They do? I'll ask. I got a lot of the stuff in there from them anyways so might be good.

 

Thanks for the tip!

No prob.

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