Kc7vwc reacted to Electronics Wizardy in Retail router vs home (plex) server acting as router, for high device count
A consumer grade router should be able to handled those devices fine, but you can try setting up your own router if you want to.
Id keep it seperate, and just get something like a UDM if you want to go unifi, or a edge router. Could run a vm with like untangle, but thats probably a bit too complex fo most setups.
Kc7vwc got a reaction from xyro27 in Optimal charging rate for battery longevity?
I think Linus did a video a while back, where the heat & the cycles were there worst part of modern batteries.
For cycles, you want to do a single charge. Going from __% up to however much you consider full, all in one go.
Example: Don't charge it from 25% to 60% and then pull it off the charger, only to put it back on later & finish up to full.
That's two separate cycles of chemical charge/discharge.
Charging docks in cars are the worst for this, as you're probably using the dock multiple times per trip outside the house. House to store = charging. Shopping = discharging. Back in car = charging, on & off for each stop you make.
On top of that, many new devices are being programmed with smart charging, to learn your 'typical' charging habits. If you only charge at night, and wake up at the same time most days, it can learn how to throttle the charge so it peaks just as you wake up.
Kc7vwc got a reaction from Vic K in Thinking of upgrading to rtx 3070 but only have a pcie 2.0 x16 instead of 3.0/4.0, will this hinder performance noticeably?
Keep the 2070 and buy a new CPU/Mobo/RAM - that's what's holding you back.
I'd think you'd have to be on a very old platform to only have PCIe 2.0. Like AMD Phenom type of old.
At the least with your current system, check your power supply. If it's a pre-built system, (especially if it's from a retail store & not a PC specialist shop) then they probably cut corners on the PSU. You'll find something that barely meets the power requirements, or it's sending poorly conditioned power, and that will cause interference with PC parts that need precise voltage control.
I have a 2060 and it pushes every game I own to 90+ FPS at max settings at 1080p. It's paired with a Ryzen 2700, both at stock voltages & clocks.
And for the price of a 30xx card, you can build a DAMN FINE platform to run any GPU on.
Kc7vwc reacted to Bombastinator in Optimal charging rate for battery longevity?
My understanding is that holding a battery a a given charge does not wear it. It’s charging to that level in the first place. As to whether slow or fast charging will produce more wear I don’t know. One would think slow charging would cause less wear but I don’t know.
Kc7vwc reacted to mariushm in Good Power Bank Recommendations?
Anker is solid ... avoid those things with solar cells ... the solar panel is so small you'd have to keep that thing in the sun for 10+ hours to charge it up, when you could use a regular AC adapter to charge it within half an hour from the wall.
Kc7vwc got a reaction from Communist_Empire in Motorola Strikes Back
I have the G Power (North American variant). Good all-around device. I wouldn't have minded a slightly snappier chipset, or 6GB of RAM, but for the price I can't complain with it's performance. I don't game on it; just the geek in my likes bigger, better faster. Easily lasts 2-3 days of basic usage. I've gone from sunup-to-sundown watching YT videos & still had charge left over.
In broad daylight outside, the screen could be a bit brighter, but it's still visible.
One quirk I did notice recently: I have a glass screen protector on the front. The rare time I used the front-facing camera, it flashes the entire screen white to act as a flash. With the screen protector on, it refracts the light back towards the camera & creates a halo effect around the outside of the picture. So be mindful if you also use a protector & take selfies.
So far I seem to be about a month behind in security updates. Sitting on July 1 update which came through in the last week or so.
Kc7vwc reacted to BobVonBob in 5inch bay panel with Information only?
Just use a fan controller but don't use the fan controlling part? Nearly all the 5.25" bay stuff out there now is excess stock from when 5.25" bays were still popular, so there isn't nearly as much variety as there used to be, and even back when it was popular I don't think I ever saw an information display that wasn't also a fan controller.
Kc7vwc reacted to The_russian in 5inch bay panel with Information only?
They definetely existed, I actually still have one, though I'm not using it anymore. Here's a link to it:
That's just the LCD, I guess they must have sold them separately because mine is in a housing that goes into a 5.25" bay.
@Kc7vwc I don't know if you'll be able to find a good quality screen right now, so I'd probably just get a fan controller and not use the controller part, like @BobVonBob suggested.
Kc7vwc reacted to RAS_3885 in Fan Controller/Hub/Splitter
I have this for controlling all my case fans and have been very happy with it.
It allows up to 8 fans to be controlled via one PWM signal (so perfect for a lot of case fans, or a bunch of AIO fans. Fans have to be 4-pin to be PWM controlled, but 3-pin fans will work with the hub, just run at full speed. Power fed to all fans via separate SATA power cable (so not all powered off a single fan header).
Kc7vwc got a reaction from usernameistaken in Help! b450m ds3h gigabyte
Pin 1 is your reference point with any motherboard jumper-pin layout. The first diagram should always show how the header is physically oriented on the board itself. (The pin layout / definition is just in case you need to re-wire the attaching connector)
So the bottom diagram shows Pin1 as being the 12v pin. The top diagram shows Pin1 at the bottom, so on your motherboard itself, the 12v pin should be at the bottom.
Looking at pictures of that motherboard itself, the header is located just below & to the left of the CPU socket, and is directly right of the audio jacks. . There's a 4pin PWM fan header just above it. And based on this diagram, Pin1 is the bottom pin, farthest away from the FAN header.
And yes you're right - based on the picture Newegg has of that motherboard, Pin1 is not labeled on the board itself.
Kc7vwc reacted to Abhinav2003 in USA/North America $250 device
You can go for the Nokia 7.2. It'll fall in your budget and is an overall great choice. Clean software, good cameras, decent battery and it's sufficiently powered.
I honestly cannot think of any other device since you have ruled out Samsung but you could also take a look at the G Stylus
Kc7vwc reacted to Donut417 in USA/North America $250 device
Device wise I dont got anything for you. I swtiched from Android to Apple a while ago and never looked back. But Apple requires...... an investment so not really for everyone. That being said, Mint uses T Mobile's network, so you will need a device that can function of T Mobiles Network. Specifically need to make sure you have bands 4 and 12 support, thats the 4G network bands.
Kc7vwc reacted to WoodenMarker in r2600 stock cooler any good
The 2600 gets the Wraith Stealth and the 2700 gets the Wraith Spire.
It's a good upgrade over the Stealth but there many be better options available.
I'd recommend trying out the stock cooler first and deciding on what to do depending on the results.
Kc7vwc got a reaction from Fausto in Best Thermal Paste for HP laptop
Most name-brand pastes will only vary by 5 degrees or so. If you're lucky, you might see 8-10 from the likes of Thermal Grizzly or IC Diamond.
Where pastes will really differentiate themselves is longevity. I've had some last for several years. And I've seen others dry out & flake away in months.
MX-4 is currently my favorite for performance, lifespan and cost. You can get around 8g on Amazon for almost the price of a cup of coffee.
I can't recall the last time I used Arctic Silver, so I can't speak for it.
I've got some Zalman's stuff on a friend's Phenom CPU, so that's an experiment in the works, but it seems to be holding up fine after a couple months.
And I've got Cooler Master stuff (no specific model #) on my kid's FX 6300. That's only been on about a month so far.
Kc7vwc got a reaction from Combat_Killer in Everyone recommends AMD GPU's, but in RL they are actually broken
I just want to ask & mention a few things.
I had an R9 390 (Hawaii) and the drivers itself ran beautifully.
Radeon Catalyst/Adrenaline could get buggy sometimes. ReLive has had issues (as it's overlay-based I also expect this) but the actual driver pushing the metal I haven't had an issue with since Wrath of the Lich King came out for WoW.
Same goes for Nvidia. GeForce experience & ShadowPlay have had issues, but I haven't seen a driver lockup in close to a decade.
Now I'll admit the 390 was my latest AMD card. I ran a 285 (I think), 270, HD 69??, HD 6850, 7870 and 75?0 before that. Along with some Alienware laptop that actually had Crossfire (bought this machine specifically for WotLK). The laptop & the desktop PC after it were the last times I can ever remember having a driver crash.
Couple of recent Call of Duty games have come close, but that's shitty programming, poor optimization & money-grabbing as it happened on both platforms.
My house is currently running GTX 750 Ti, 2x 970, 1050 Ti & RTX 2060 on various CPU platforms, with my nephew using that R9 390 & nobody has any issues. I also use an old GTS 250 & HD 6450 for troubleshooting.
So my point, is everyone actually having driver issues or is it the overlaying software that contains those drivers that you're having problems with? And is it only Vega & Navi, or are you having issues with Polaris & older stuff too?
Because granted my sample size is low, but the drivers themselves from both companies been working flawlessly for years upon years. I haven't seen any of this "AMD drivers are always shit" from firsthand experience. And statistically I should have from the way everyone talks about it.
Kc7vwc got a reaction from muindor in Unstable AMD Drivers
Last time I had a driver issue with AMD, I was raiding during WoW's WotLK expansion, with either an HD 6850, or maybe an R7 270 (?) - can't remember which. Have used a 290 & 390 since then, when I've been team red. (Had an Alienware laptop when WotLK launched & it actually had Crossfire that worked flawlessly)
ReLive has given me issues, but the drivers themselves haven't for several years. And that's almost the exact same for Nvidia. I've used 750 Ti, 970, 1050 Ti, 1060, 1070 and 2060 - zero driver issues but a few scattered problems with the GFE overlay - both 2.x and the newer versions.
I'm not discounting anyone's issues, just saying that it's not all Doom & gloom.
Kc7vwc got a reaction from maestro_it in AMD 3600x idle temp with stock fan? and recommend a less noise fan?
Anything with more mass will cool better, not necessarily any 3rd party cooler.
Does the 3600x come with the Spire or the Prism? The Spire is the only one I know for sure got changed. Others should still be the same as earlier generations.
But yeah, any tower cooler big enough to fit a 120mm or larger fan, and usually priced more than $25 USD will get the job done with minimal noise increase.
A double-tower heatsink (like Noctua) should almost be able to cool without the fans ramping up at all. (Provided good chassis airflow)
Kc7vwc got a reaction from William23r in RGB fans
Gigabyte has a listing of all their compatible accessories. https://www.gigabyte.com/MicroSite/512/partners.html
I've got one of their ITX B450s and ran into the same issue. I'm currently waiting for a Cooler Master PWM/aRGB hub to ship from overseas. But it really looks like the best bet is to find a fan hub with SATA connections to power then all. Then find another non-software controlled aRGB hub or cable splitters to handle the lighting. Sadly, this won't let you controller each fan individually, but (IMO) RGB Fusion isn't exactly Advanced enough for individual control either.
Kc7vwc reacted to GLD in How to mount 2nd GPU without impeding the airflow of my 1st GPU?
Not really, it would just be more beneficial to just sell your 1050ti on ebay. New NVENC has even less framerate losses.
Kc7vwc got a reaction from christian franca in Stuttering from different monitor refresh rates.
That I'm not sure of. Every bit of research I've done has suggested this only happens with "mixed refresh rates" so I would have assumed matching rates wouldn't...
Closest I ever got to matching refresh's was down-clocking my 144Hz panel to 120Hz, hoping the 'common denominator' with a 60Hz panel would help, but it didn't. I never tried going all the way down to 60Hz on both of them though. After testing with various GPUs, for me it was simply easier to use a single high-refresh panel. All my stream monitoring and media consumption is done on my mobile sitting next to the monitor.
@Mick Naughty - it's an issue with Windows, not the hardware. When I tested this with my previous system, I used combinations of R9 390, GTX 1050 Ti, along with the 4690K's iGPU. All of them produced this stuttering, regardless of which GPU was driving which monitor. Displayport, DVI & HDMI all were affected. But, as OP said, it's only when there's a 'load' going to the other monitor - usually video.
So, I think I found the video I had seen before. Steve calls it Frame Times (i thought it was frame pacing). Just now I only watched the first 5min or so of this video, so I don't know if they discussed Window's problem in it or not, but it does describe the root issue here with FPS versus Frame Times. And they do address right away that this micro-stuttering with Frame Times is perceptible.
Kc7vwc reacted to Chiyawa in Need help figuring out PCIE lanes and M.2
I don't think it is possible with X570 chipsets. The Ryzen has 20 usable PCIe lanes and the chipset has 16 (which many motherboard manufacturer only allows up to 8 for usage, as the rest are configured for audio, SATA controller and USB),
Unless you wants to sacrifice your x16 slot (where your graphic card sits) for a 4 M2 slots, you should get Threadripper and TRX motherboard (X399 or TRX40) instead, as they have more PCIe lanes which can handle more M2 SSD.
Anyway, do you really need that speed for file transferring? If not, like @Electronics Wizardy said, It is better to get SATA SSDs. You can RAID 0 the SSDs.