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About Bearpaddocks

  • Title

Profile Information

  • Location
    Victoria, Australia


  • CPU
    AMD Phenom II 545
  • Motherboard
    Old AM2+
  • RAM
    4gb DDR2 800
  • GPU
    Nvidia 710 (GTX?)
  • Case
  • Storage
    480gb WD SSD SATA
  • PSU
  • Display(s)
    Old HP
  • Cooling
    Stock AMD From Phenom era
  • Keyboard
    Officeworks generic
  • Mouse
  • Sound
  • Operating System
    Linux Zorin OS
  • Laptop
    HP 3300U 13" 8/128

Recent Profile Visitors

159 profile views
  1. Standoffs don't matter as long as the board is secure. I'd suggest checking all of the mounting pressures of things, and making sure that everything is mounted again properly. Take out all the things you readily can, and make sure that they were plugged in properly to begin with. Make sure you haven't accidentally slot-shifted the graphics card. Double check the HDMI or DisplayPort cable. Make sure the monitor has power. Make sure the monitor is selecting the correct port to receive from. If that doesn't work, I may have a few more slightly more outlandish ideas later.
  2. Is that a DVI port with a HDMI next to it on the graphic card? Because then it could be the DVI cable that's gone caput. But you should upgrade that card soon anyway. The rest will live for now. Though a drive upgrade wouldn't be bad either at some point. Also, not trying to be mean, probably a good idea to give the case a good dusting inside and out.
  3. It was a third-hand computer that originally came from a school. Has a fresh version of the school W7 OS and no product key on the sticker.
  4. Is it possible to "update" it to windows 10 at all?
  5. Does anyone know if it is possible to upgrade from Windows 7 education edition, to Windows 10 home without doing a complete reinstall from USB?
  6. At the time being, if going AMD, I personally wouldn't recommend B450. Even though that is an amazing choice of motherboard (first-hand experience), it just doesn't look like there will be a decent upgrade path in the near future. If you can afford it, go the big brother with B550. To start you off, I'd recommend a cheaper SDD that is decent (Seagate, WD, Crucial... NOT SECOND-HAND) for a similar price, to be the boot SSD so it won't be slowed down by that. You can then add a hard drive later on down the track. Agree with Pc6777 on getting an older GPU for time being and get a good
  7. So, I'm trying to recover a drive from a computer after trying to upgrade the size. Got it out, got the new one, used an external cloning drive bay to clone it. Didn't work. Put the 2 drives in separate drive bays and used Macrium Reflect to copy it. Corrupted the original drive into saying No OS Found. Took it to the local tech store (Where I got the Macrium advice from). They corrupted it further. But got some data onto the second drive, but not enough. Hooked it up to Linux (Zorin OS), and planned to drag and drop. Wouldn't appear and had 22 faults in Disk manager.
  8. This worked for someone else a few days ago: Check that the CPU mounting pressure is correct. It solved their exact same problem.
  9. If you got nothing, not even a BIOS, then either you didn't wait long enough for it to boot up (always possible), or something is dead. Given that you tried with a different graphics card, it isn't that. It's not the PCI-E slot. Did you have it properly connected to the monitor? Was the card seated properly in the PCI-E slot (weird thought, but still)? Have you made sure you haven't accidentally knocked a VRM off? Take it out of the case and make sure there was no shorting on the back? Tried memory in different channels? Re-seated all the drives? Re-seated the CPU? Monitor powered on? Correct
  10. If your PSU is not connected, then it "theoretically" has no way of grounding itself. If it is plugged in, then yes, it will go out through the grounding pin IF you have any charge in you. But by just standing on somewhere connected to the earth should be sufficient. Like a metal floor. But don't build on carpet. I think Jays2Cents did a video on this too at one point as well.
  11. To clone a drive the "traditional" way without software, the destination drive MUST be larger than the source drive. From what I'm reading here, It can now be done going from larger to smaller. Am I correct? (Though not sure why anyone would want to do that but...)
  12. You probably fried the traces on the Board leading to the CPU, the CPU itself, or the plug on the board. Either way, you'll probably have to replace something a bit expensive.