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Shai Hulud

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Everything posted by Shai Hulud

  1. That was my guess, so my card is fine with those both empty? Any idea how to change the fan curve? The main thing I'm noticing is my CPU idle temps seem about 5 degrees higher since installing the new GPU
  2. Here is a better picture, above one set of pins it says 5V D G(?) and the other says Aux fan. Maybe one is for RGB controller and one is for external PWM case fans? Otherwise I dont really see the point of two of them
  3. I finally installed my air cooled EVGA RTX 3090, and I noticed today at idle the fans do not spin at all. They do spin when I'm gaming. I assume this is how it is supposed to work but the card gets pretty hot even at idle, and being right next to my CPU I think this makes my CPU fans work harder,, which worries me a bit. So there are these two connectors that look like they take a 4 pin female fan cable, but the GPU didn't come with any fan cable and the installation manual mentioned nothing about it. I *think* the purpose is to attach PWM case fans to those and have
  4. Sabrent has 5 year warranties if you registered within 90 days I think. 1 year otherwise. That drive has been on the market about 18 months, I guess you didn't register it?
  5. I currently have 6TB of M.2 drives, 1TB older SSD, 500GB very old HDD, and three different external USB drives ranging from 1TB, 2TB, and 4TB. So total 14.5TB but not all drives are full and I can coalesce the external drive data to get < 14 TB I'd like to back up the drives on internal SATA HDDS. I was thinking two 14TB+ drives in RAID 1 to use for backups. Problem is all the large drives I've looked at seem to be very loud. E.g. Seagate Exos reviews frequently mention them being very noisy. That's a deal breaker for me as the drives would go in my PC. W
  6. I didn't realize it at first but it didn't fit because some of the housing pins were bent. I attempted to straighten them and they broke off. The drive then fit into the slot and it actually works perfectly. Only problem is it runs pretty hot. Idle is around 42C which is not bad but stress testing with Crystal Disk Mark saw peak temps of 83C, though most tests peaked in the low to mid 70s. Not really sure how to cool the drive. There is not enough space for the Sabrent heatsink I have. I could possibly make a simple DIY heatsink with thermal pad + ? Ideally a strip of
  7. So it actually works in this slot, I'm using the drive as a boot drive for the moment but planning to clone to the faster Rocket 4 Plus. Only problem I'm having, and I'm not sure it's a problem as I've heard differing things on cooling NVME drives, is the bottom slot has no cooling and there isn't space for the heatsink I have. In Crystal Disk Mark default test, when it gets to the random write section I saw peak temps around 83 degrees C. Idle is around 42 C. I've heard throttling doesn't happen until 90, but IDK. Sequential reads/writes were actually slightly faster than before,
  8. Yeah the metal pins underneath are fine it was just the housing I guess (sorry, they looked like "pins" to me but plastic). Guess I'll give it a shot. If it works it should work indefinitely as I have no need to be looking at the bottom of the motherboard except for the initial install
  9. As far as I can tell the pins that broke don't actually have contacts on them so I'm actually not sure why it wouldn't still work. The pins appear to be plastic on both sides
  10. The top plastic pins broke. Bottom pins are fine. I don't know if the plastic pins had important contacts underneath, I'm guessing from comments that they did. I could just try to boot it up and see what happens...any chance this damages the drive or it just wouldn't work? Still a PITA to attempt as I have to plug/unplug everything and remove the motherboard each time to mess with that slot.
  11. Okay thanks for the bad news. Not going to buy a new motherboard as I spent 900 on this one and can work around this. I really can't think of a moment where I'd have crushed the pins...this is the first time I even looked at the bottom of the motherboard. But I doubt Asus warranties this kind of thing since I'm not sure I didn't do it, and even if I were I can't prove it. Luckily there's a Dimm.2 expansion module I can use for 4 total M.2 drives vs 5. I currently have 3, so, it should be fine. I was staring at the slot for a good 15 minutes try
  12. So I recently figured out in this thread that the M.2 slot on the bottom of my Asus Rog Zenith II Extreme Alpha had broken pins that were preventing the drive going in. I don't think I broke them but can't rule it out as that's a sketchy place for unprotected pins. Anyway, I tried to bend them back and they snapped. The drive goes in now but I don't know if those pins had any functional purpose or were just there to hold the drive in contact with the bottom pins. So....will this work? Or is this slot hopeless?
  13. It was really hard to see but after getting a good enough photo it looks like those are actually crushed pins. I am assuming it came this way as I have been very careful when building. I'm not even sure how I would have crushed these pins. Maybe accidentally pressed against a standoff? Only possibility but still I have been pretty careful. What a bummer...this is why you shouldn't put important connectors on the bottom of the motherboard. I have no way of knowing for sure whether I did this. Maybe I could RMA it but I'd be out a computer until I got a new one.
  14. Ok it may be moot...the drive won't fit in the slot on the back of the MB. The connector is almost identical to the ones on the Dimm.2 card and those work. Comparison of the two. The MB one has some kind of structure like 60% up but not on the connector part. They fit easily into the Dimm.2 and won't go into the M.2_3 on the MB with any reasonable amount of force. MB manual says all the slots support M.2 2280 (among others) I know you're supposed to insert at like 30 degree angle and I've tried others as well, will not fit. The very small piece of the connector below t
  15. That was my instinct... would it help to put thermal pads on the drive? I have some extras but am not sure it would do much good as I don't know if the pad is thick enough to reach the metal on the case
  16. I have an Asus Rog Zenith II Extreme Alpha and 1 x Sabrent Rocket Gen 4 2TB 2 x Sabrent Roctet 4 Plus 2TB And I have questions regarding placement of drives and heatsinks. The second drives are the new ones, just got them recently but debating where to install them. My MB has theoretically 5 M.2 slots but there are downsides to 4 of them There are two on the front with thermal pads (M.2_1 and M.2_2) with a third slot on the back of the motherboard (M.2_3). The M.2_2 slot uses some of the PCIE slot 4 bandwidth and makes it run at
  17. I was thinking about a Bykski rad. The all-copper ones look decent but I haven't seen any reviews, comparisons to more well-known radiators. How are your temps? Was considering this 60mm on bottom and a 30mm on top. About $70 / 40 shipped respectively. I don't know much about radiator design, they all look like they should perform similarly if constructed with similar materials / fin density etc but idk. Might just get 2 or 3 HWLabs Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS, they cost more than the 60mm Bykski though.
  18. Thanks this is helpful, I've decided to go with these fittings in silver. Is that 14mm tubing? I'm still trying to decide on 14 vs 16. Have a 011d XL. AliExpress has a sale today, going to try to order later. Just wondering any particular reason you have two reservoirs? Also curious what rads you're using. I don't know if this is any help but there's a video here showing there's like a push-release on the wolverine and there are a handful of comments about the fitting that may or may not be useful. I couldn't find much about it either...
  19. If I get silver fittings would they have that issue? Not sure if they're painted/coated I just assumed that was the color of the metal
  20. This Bykski fitting also looks decent, looks almost identical to the Barrow anti-off. I slightly prefer the look of the Barrow fittings because less visible branding but not a big deal https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000773115630.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.ddf239b5OWJGWj&algo_pvid=12203056-f585-464b-bc7b-87a1219cd309&algo_expid=12203056-f585-464b-bc7b-87a1219cd309-1&btsid=0bb0624116045706413212928e5353&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
  21. I'm going to need for my loop I think 18 rigid compression fittings, 2 right angle fittings minimum, maybe some fancy rotaries. The main thing I'm deciding right now is the compression fittings. I think I'm going to use Barrow fittings (Chinese brand), or BarrowCH, since I can get these for like $2 to $3 each and they are apparently decent quality. There is this classic Barrow fitting that looks pretty good, has 3 O-rings. Also this newer "anti-off" style fitting, I *think* it's a compression fitting but instead of a second (or third?) o-ring uses a speci
  22. You can get some reasonable kits for like $200ish on AlieExpress using lesser known but still okay brands like Barrow and Bykski.. e.g. this product. Shipping might be expensive depending where you are. I'd be very wary of any kit < $100 There's one here for $135, 240mm rad cpu loop, for $250 you can get a 360mm rad cpu/gpu loop. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001621399294.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.2dc45d491Nrv9n&algo_pvid=900a590d-f44b-4cdb-96b9-e5027621ee0b&algo_expid=900a590d-f44b-4cdb-96b9-e5027621ee0b-4&btsid=0b0a555e16045620582147464ea51d
  23. It's all borosilicate glass. Idk how accurate the specifications are but I'd guess probably just as good or better than mayhems / alphacool / etc..? I assume it's just super marked up because enthusiasts pay way more than things are worth especially in niche markets. I'm pretty convinced against glass though. Can't find inexpensive right angle pieces, don't want to use a zillion fittings, just seems not worth it for now Would you recommend acrylic or PETG? Is optical clarity significantly better with acrylic? Worth the extra bending difficulty? Though...prebent acrylic
  24. Why so expensive? Would something like this not work? Chinese generic glass < 1 dollar per meter. Pyrex about 2 dollars a meter. Haven't found cheap angled glass yet... https://www.mountainglass.com/Import-Heavy-Wall-16mm-x-2-5mm-56
  25. I don't care about bragging rights, but one of the glass tubing videos I watched the guy (who uses no facial protection, maybe not best source) compares his acrylic tube to the glass and it looks very, very noticeable. Granted he'd been running that tubing 5 years. The main thing that attracts me about glass (aside from the optical clarity) is once installed it should last basically forever...I think?