Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

Gmoney57

Member
  • Content Count

    9
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards

This user doesn't have any awards

About Gmoney57

  • Title
    Newbie
  • Birthday July 4

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

System

  • CPU
    Xeon E5-2650 v3 10C 20T @3.0 GHz
  • Motherboard
    Intel X99
  • RAM
    T-Force Delta 24 GB @2666 MHz
  • GPU
    MSI Radeon RX 5700 XT
  • Storage
    1TB SanDisk SSD
  • PSU
    850 W PSU
  • Cooling
    LEPA Exllusion 240
  • Sound
    Logitech X540 5.1 Channel
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro
  • Laptop
    Lenovo T520
  1. Sorry for not updating this thread for a while, I've been busy with school and family. I made a TON of progress. I really have no idea why though... I picked out the motherboard I wanted and wanted to test the PSU before I bought the motherboard to be sure that was the problem. I removed the PSU and tested the voltages of every single pin with a multimeter just to be sure they were outputting the right voltages, and they were. So I put the unit back into my PC and reconnected everything and re-cable managed everything. [NOTE: I removed some adapter that converted 2 AMP connectors to a PCI-E co
  2. Thank you, this is very appreciated. Are only server-grade boards able to be paired with this processor?
  3. Underclocking the RAM actually cause this corrupt-looking windows "logo" to go away while the installer was loading up. Before, as it was loading up, there were these 3 or 4 choppy blue lines the name color as the Windows logo above them. After I underclocked the RAM to 2133 they never came back. The installer still doesn't want to install though.
  4. I was afraid that was the case. Do you have any recommendations for a new motherboard? And could the power supply have damaged the motherboard or is it definitely just not paired properly?
  5. Yeah I just tried reinstalling Windows using the Media Creation Tool since the October Update recently came out on both 2133 MHz and 2000 MHz and both got the same outcome, other than i actually got this screen instead for some unknown reason. I clicked "OK" and tried rescanning but it still couldn't find anything and the same window popped up. Then I tried reflashing an older version of Windows from an ISO I still had but it said it couldn't be verified from Microsoft and that I had to get the updated version.
  6. It's an Atermiter X99 motherboard I believe.
  7. Yeah I was thinking it was either a mobo or power supply issue and some people have told me power supply and others have told me mobo, and of course there's multiple things I've tried elsewhere that never worked so it's really confusing.
  8. Yeah I've tried running 1 and 2 sticks at once before with no difference. I can try it again though because it's been weird the whole way through. I haven't tried underclocking it but it would make a bit of sense to do so since I think the maximum speed the CPU can handle is 2133 MHz. Something I've also tried in the past with a few different versions of Windows is to install it on a flash drive so I could just boot to that. I've used 3 or 4 programs like Rufus to try to flash it on 5 or 6 different flash drives and all has failed.
  9. I've been having issues with Windows becoming corrupt ever since a few months after I built it. Originally when I first built the PC, I was using a 1 TB Seagate Hard Drive that later had corruption issues and eventually died. Usually, I would be able to use Windows for about a week before it became corrupted, but now I can't even install it on the new SSD I bought for it. At first, I thought it was the graphics drivers that were having issues but it soon became apparent that back when I could still get Windows to install, that it would almost immediately become corrupted, sometimes words in me
×