Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

NewbieOne

Member
  • Content Count

    60
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by NewbieOne

  1. Well, I didn't burn the card. I was actually surprised when it started without issues the first time (shows what kind of pessimist I am ;)). The mount clearly isn't ideal, mostly because I put heatsinks on capacitors, which collides with the main heatsink, but it works, even though you can see the metal bracket on the CPU is quite heavily bent. But it survived Furmark without exceeding 58 Celsius. Probably would have got a better result with a more proper mount and without putting the heatsink on and off several times with the preapplied paste. But if Furmark can't make it break 60 degrees Cel
  2. Thanks! I used the included glue. I put it, along with some variety/size of heatsink or other, on practically everything that protruded from the card's board. Those were mostly rubber-coated, but in some cases there was naked metal, I think. I didn't even know (after so many years of Sunday tinktering) that a heatsink could cause a short at all. Any serious risk I could permanently kill the card like this?
  3. I am referring to step 4 in the Preparation section of Accelero Xtreme 3 manual: https://support.arctic.ac/index.php?p=ax3-rev2 Before reading this, I glued the heatsinks on all three colums. However, there was no difference visually — all three columns looked the same. There was also tape residue from my stock cooler on the third column. I likewise applied heatsinks on pretty much anything that stood out from the card's board — stuff the illustrations from the manual show left uncovered. Am I about to fry the card as soon as I plug
  4. As per title. I already have a bunch of P14s, but I have an opportunity to buy three TY-143s for a good price along with a TY-147 as fourth. So should I? Or will it be a sidegrade or downgrade? I've already just tested TY-141 vs P14 and decided TY-141 was louder while not cooling noticeably better on my CPU cooler (within 1–2 degrees, with P14 possibly even being the better one).
  5. Thank you. I normally would have preferred a RAM-friendly dual tower or huge 14cm single tower, though there aren't many of the latter kind. But the U12A caught my attention due to the increased pipe count and total fin area. In the end, I ended up buying a naked TC14PE heatsink today, to go with the TY-141 fans via included clips. TC14PE + 2xTY-141 is probably pretty retro. And the total cost was about as much as a (new!) Fuma anyway, so perhaps not the best strategizing. Oh, we'll see.
  6. Sounds ridiculous, I know, but I can get a 20%-ish discount on the U12A and use the two NF-A12s on Accelero (which I already have). The U12A would then get some oversize effect like many dual towers and like Macho single towers and Fortis and a couple of other single towers but unlike the U12A with stock fans. Or would you buy a dual-tower heatsink the TY-141s (which I already have)?
  7. Does anybody have both in the same case? Does P14 end up moving more air for the same noise / being quieter for the same flow than P12 or not? Thanks.
  8. As per title. Of course, no monitor is going to have a positive or even neutral effect on your health given so much exposure, but what's the best of the worst? I currently have an AOC Q3279VWFD8, basically a budget 32'' IPS, which is a lovely monitor, especially for its price (a little more than $200). But I notice my eyes getting tired, me developing headaches and so on. Part of it is perhaps IPS, part the sheer size. Lower brightness settings feel as though too bright and too dim at the same time (it looks dim, but there's still so much glow coming at ya)… I wonder if I shouldn't
  9. Well, I was thinking G12 plus something used or something cheap like a CM Lite, as an alternative to Accelero/Morpheus+Noctua for a similar cost. But spending the card's worth again on cooling would be a poor choice vs upgrading it or adding a twin in SLI, yeah. I've already posted adds to sell the 1070ti, thinking maybe to keep the G12+AIO for something better. Alternatively, I could just get an Accelero with fan swap or Morpheus to play some with the card I have. It's a special OC version with 8+8 instead of 8+6 and soaks TDP well, so I thought I could have some fun with it for tinkering's s
  10. Available rad spots: top exhaust: 3x140 max rear exhaust: 1x140 max (2 fans for push-pull doable if also grabbing an AIO for CPU) front intake: 2x140 max (but bottom will be restricted; however, 4 fans would be doable for a push-pull) bottom intake: 140+120 max (but front will be restricted; 4 fans would be doable) The intakes could be flipped (e.g. 140 rear-top and 140 rear intake, with rads on front-top and front as exhausts), though that's probably not a great idea (unless maybe bottom, as in blow the rad air outta the bottom of the case and onto the f
  11. Based on tests (D14 vs D15 vs TC14PE w/same fans, passive tests, etc.), I would be inclined to think D14 is slightly better than D15 in terms of the heatsink alone. TC14PE may be slightly better still and Silver Arrow may be slightly better than both, though it's hard to tell. I haven't seen any tests for R1, Tisis or Okeanos with the same fans as D14/D15 or in passive mode. And, of course, having the best passive performance in the entire lineup doesn't necessarily mean the same heatsink would also win in 300 rpm or 500 rpm ranges (not all heatsinks designed with minim
  12. Conventional wisdom is: Performance: custom loop > AIO > air (custom loop > good AIO > best air = average AIO > crappy AIO) Silence: custom loop > air > AIO Where Noctua NH-D15, Thermalright Le Grand Macho RT and Scythe Fuma 2 are air coolers that play in the AIO league. Others can also pull it off thermally (especially Cryorig R1 but also possibly but with more of a difference: Raijintek Tisis, Reeven Okeanos, SilentiumPC Grandis 3 and other dual towers from lesser brands) but will be louder. As far as fans go, good AIOs wil
  13. Hi. I had a lot on my plate these last weeks, so revisiting this subject after some time. Currently looking at Xtreme III vs IV and — because IV is cheaper than III right now — wondering what's better: Accelero Xtreme IV with its controversially performant backplate, enhanced by aftermarket VRAM/VRM heatsinks to put on the front, at which point VRAM/VRM could become sufficient. Or not. vs Accelero Xtreme III with its nice robust set of tried-and-true front heatsinks, which is essentially already a complete system. However, this doesn't mean a bunch of c
  14. Alphacool Eisbaer 420. Anybody have this and care to comment on its performance vs noise, emphasis on noise? I know the pump's supposed to have some sort of acoustic insulation and is only a little less powerful with 7V instead of 12, but my primary point of interest is whether it can be truly silent in idle and low loads. I know it's going to be quieter than the best air coolers when it comes to huge loads on huge OCs, but again, I'm focusing on whether it can be actually silent when the load is light. Yes, it will fit the case, etc. The processor is mid-ra
  15. Hi, guys, another update. I've done more 'research' (isn't really worth its serious-sounding name) across the various interviews, and focused on these: Tweaktown's review of Fuma 2 HWCooling.net's putting industrial Noctua F12 iPPV on Ninja and comparing with D15 Tom's Hardware's review of Ninja 5 focusing on powerful overclocked systems Tweaktown's review of Ninja 5 (but also analysed a bunch more) I focused on Ninja 5 and Le Grand Macho RT but included Fuma 2 because it sometimes manages to overtake them on performance, noise or both (narrow situa
  16. Well, let's say both Ninja 5 and Le Grand Macho RT — and possibly Mugen 5 PCGH and to some extent any Mugen or Fuma, especially Fuma 2, as well as a large part of Thermalright's line-up — are a much welcome gift and source of relief for people like me. They're all precious. Speaking of which, I've just made an inventory of my options, and it looks like this (using USD, but the location is in EU): NIB D15 — $105 shipped from Noctua ($91 shipped from Noctua outlet — refurb from consumer returns) NIB D15S — $91 shipped from Noctua NIB True Spirit Power — $
  17. Yeah, it's just that I've already damaged three if not four sockets this year, so it's a bit PTSD-like. It will go away with time. Just gotta be more careful and really stick with the self-imposed rule of not touching CPU sockets if I'm tired, which is like 99% of the time. I really liked the pins being on the CPU more. And yeah, your system would probably be a bit too much for me, unless perhaps in gaming. In gaming, I'm still more decibel-averse than the average person, but no longer as insistent on complete silence. As long as there are no specially bad sounds such as vibrations
  18. That'd be 320–350-ish rpm? I'm pretty sure that's inaudible even to me, unless pulling or pushing through the rad and the case filters amplifies the acoustics. I really did the way Freezer II is quieter than D15 for the same temps under high loads on high OCs, just want to make sure silent idle is also possible.
  19. Yeah, I don't trust myself with TIM, TBH. Rice grain with something like AS5, or X with some other older pastes, sure, but achieving good thin spreads without either taking too little paste and achieving too little contact or taking too much and making a pigsty of the socket is still level hard to me. Last time I actually dripped Kryonaut on a CPU pin and damaged the socket because of 'non-insane automatism', a.k.a. rushing to clean it up like an idiot. So embarrassing. Wasn't as clumsy in my younger days when there were a couple of swaps per year rather than one swap every couple of years.
  20. A12x25 would be lovely, but I would struggle to justify the expense. On Amazon it would actually be cheaper to get an outlet NH-U12A and take the fans from there than to buy just a pair of fans. (Which I considered briefly.) For Morpheus or for just a fan swap, I'd either buy 2xP12 PWM PST + adapter or non-PST with two separate adapters (any difference?), perhaps a third one to install vertically at 90 degrees to the card? Or I would use a pair of 140 mm Silent Wings 3 hispeeds if I ended up not using them ony CPU.
  21. Link. Not the fattest beast I've seen but probably not too shabby either. I would still at least swap paste, so might as well mount a better heatsink back on.
  22. 92 isn't the end of the world, but my hearing is more sensitive than the average, plus some neurological issues. Decibels alone aren't as much of a problem as fast-spinning bearings, vibrations, etc. Plus I sometimes end up gaming with sound turned off. This is weird, I know, but it tends to be my preferred way for playing some games (usually strategies). Does the IV have enough room for memory/VRM heatsinks under the front fan? I already have a backplate, but if A4's is is better, then I guess I could do it like you say, both ways for better temps.
  23. Not sure, no gaming time lately, but an hour or two of Prime 95 with 4.4 GHz OC results in going to 125W over time, around 75C. My current cooler is Ultra 120 (probably TRU rather than TRUE, i.e. not 'Extreme') with 2x140 Silent Wings 3 hi-speed strapped to it (dead silent at 500 rpm in Crusader Kings 2 but gotta try Witcher 3 or something else more demanding). Next week I'm going to test the same fans on a Gelid Phantom chap dual-tower heatsink. Yeah, Direct is out of the question, just like Rev. A, B and other older Machos. Only TSP, and they cost almost the same anyway
  24. Ummm… A12x25 is a bit out of my league financially, or at least has been until recently, so I have no experience, but I'd be surprised if I could hear it at all, except maye in a noisy situation like pulling through a filter. On a CPU or as unfiltered exhaust I suppose 600 rpm on A12x25 would be totally inaudible? Yeah, I know the basics. Was just joking that having both a traditional huge heatsink and a rad with water pipes would be ideal for temps/noise balance. Don't mind me if my ignorance of physics showed (as it does from time to time). I would ideally keep th
  25. With D15, I would need to move the front fan about 1 cm up. LGMRT being set back would be welcome, as well as practically sticking its ass in rear exhaust. I also suspect the oversized fan would assist VRM/mosfet cooling same way the A15 does on the D15. Yeah, I'm familiar with that interview. It also has made me thinking about what the True Spirit Power could do if it's 60% more powerful than Direct, which already was pretty close. As in, Power's level of improvement on top of Direct should probably also outpace LGMRT. The height is okay, at worst I'll have to hand it
×