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Posts posted by ReganCACS

  1. What about RGB vs BGR subpixel layout? Does this matter as much as some people on reddit seem to think? OS's are macOS and Ubuntu, we are a Windows free household. GPUs are AMD for Ubuntu and Intel for the macs. Seems like everything over 40 inches is BGR. Will this make for blurry or jagged text on the macs in particular? It looks like I can set the Ubuntu to BGR in conf, but will this actually correct the issue?


    The monitor in question is the LG 43UN700-B 42.5-inch 4K UHD IPS Monitor



  2. I have also short listed the BEN-Q EW3280U as I cannot find the LG 32UN880-B 32 Inch UltraFine Ergo 4K available in Canada. After watching the Project Zero Cables video I axed my plan for 2 ASUS proarts + usb-c dock and decided I needed less cables and screens at the desk I now spend 15ish hours at mon-fri with moving to full remote. Other then not coming with a proper adjustable stand the Benq meets all my needs:


    - 4K 32 inch IPS Display

    - At least 3 video inputs with 1 or 2 DP 1.4, 1 HDMI 2.0, and one usb-c (DP alt w/ at least 45w PD) for one cable docking my MBA

    - Good for productivity work (I work in application security ei lots of reading code, writing reports, and making presentations)

    - Fast scrolling response for text

    - Will make shadow of the tomb raider and other HDR games look pretty (I know this fits the HDRn't category according to LTT but its better then nothing)

    - Its only about 15% more then I budgeted for replacing my ancient 24 and 22 inch monitors...😰


    Its missing a couple nice to haves like a USB hub to go with the usb-c in, local dimming, and faster then 60hz refresh (but I am not sure my 5600XT can push more then that at 4k anyway, the macbooks def can't). I have read the How to choose a monitor guide here, and checked with pcmonitors.info (not just the review, but interacting with them about this monitor in youtube comments) and a few other reviewers. I am about ready to pull the trigger and order it.


    Does anyone have this monitor?

    If so is it of good quality and does it meet the requirements listed by the OP and myself based on your personal experience with it? Also how long have you had it?


    Edit: after submitting this I checked amazon again. It looks like the LG 32UN880-B is at least listed on amazon.ca now, its 100 less then the Ben-q that makes it a harder sell now. I might wait an see if the LG comes into stock in the next few days.

  3. No the corsair 650 is only in the new build. I have not built a PC in 8ish years (just mac since then). Back then I had to make a lot of compromises on things to get any use out of the machine at all, and had to build it myself to have one period. A $160 PSU was not in the budget. The last one I think was a cooler master 450 that came with the case. The others would have been similar w/case or what ever the local shop in the small town I grew up in had for under $100 at the time.

  4. 1 minute ago, jonnyGURU said:

    Then stop using shitty PSU's.


    Honestly, a great UPS doesn't make up for a crap PSU.


    Is the corsair RM 650x not a good PSU? It was well reviewed on reviews and LTT videos speak highly of corsair PSUs in general. Its pretty much the best I could find, available in Canada right now, and it was not cheap at $160 w/tax.

  5. 7 minutes ago, Lemtea said:

    Would probably be a good idea. Your best bet would be to discuss what you are trying to do with a reputable electrician and see what they recommend. 

    I will be doing that as well, but in a few months. Hopefully with no more A/C in a few weeks, and the UPS I will be fine until I can get the electrician in. I think that will be a lot more then $300 though...

  6. To be honest its not just the reviews, I have worked as a developer for 14 years, and info sec for the past 2 year. I can't count the number of times I have heard UPS units blamed for everything from a single corrupt file (literally just happened today), to bad hard drives, to total system failure. 


    That being said, every PC I have had die, that was not a laptop, I have traced the failure back to the PSU/Power in some way so maybe AC power is just the culprit and our PSU and UPS units are just trying to keep everything stable as best their engineering allows🤔. I think I will probably get the APC UPS BR1500MS next pay day its only 100 more and will give me a lot more breathing room watt wise.


    Thanks for your input folks.

  7. 8 hours ago, RussR said:

    I'm not sure there's a risk - I don't know if i'd be relying on an insurance policy from your UPS company

    check your home insurance, and add your PC to it and mention it's on a UPS

    i think the benefits of having one outweighs anything else

    Unfortunately in Canada home insurance doesn't cover stuff like this (at least not at the level I can afford). The electronics coverage is only if everything/most things gets stolen or destroyed in a fire/flood. A brown out taking out a couple pieces of equipment is considered an out of pocket expense. The deducible is about what I spent on the parts for the PC...


    8 hours ago, Lemtea said:

    Honestly I would spend the extra to get a quality unit with good support and warranty considering that valuable electronics would be running off it, I would be more concerned why the lights dim when the AC turns on. 

    Is Australia on 220v? This is pretty standard for a high BTU portable unit on a 110v/15 amp circuit. Its done the same in 3 different places, even when its isolated to its own breaker. The single phase wiring to the panel in north america homes can't handle these things...


    My other plan was to have an electrician come and add a couple dedicated 15 amp circuits to my office area to ensure that both my homebrewing equipment (i also run an electric brewing system that puts a big strain on the 110v power when in use) and computer equipment are on their own circuits away from the rest of the outlets/lighting. Would this be a better way to isolate the PC from the air con (and brewery)?  


    8 hours ago, Kilrah said:

    No, it's all the time. 

    Is this only for the battery side or for the power surge side as well? Would I be better going with the 1500VA/900w version? Its a workstation running Ubuntu (w/AMD Ryzen 3800x, 32gb ram, Radeon RX 5600XT, 2 24inch ASUS artpro 1200p monitors) that I use to crunch numbers/do SCA/DAST scans/builds that would make my macbook boil water, and do a bit of gaming on in the evening. I plan on keeping the macbooks on a separate power bar.

  8. Hi folks, this is my first post here and first post on a msg board in well over a decade. I am stuck on researching UPS and hoping for some advise.


    I have been thinking about getting this UPS: APC Back UPS PRO BR 1000VA, SineWave, 10 Outlets (BR1000MS)


    For my new build that pcpartpicker estimates to use 384 watts (only planning on putting the PC and 1 monitor on battery). It has a Corsair RM650x Gold for the PSU.


    The primary reason I am considering the UPS is when my air conditioner kicks on some of the lights in my condo dim for a fraction of a second, and I am hoping the UPS will help smooth out any dirty AC to the PSU from the air con start capacitor draw.


    But I have some concerns about reviews I have seen of this device and similar items (like equiv VA/Watt rated devices from CyberPower):

    1. I have seen claims that support/service is non existent for this tier of "consumer" UPS, and that people have not been reimbursed for damages to equipment.
    2. I have seen reports claiming that the BR1000MS does not have a true sinewave, despite the manufactures claims, and that it has damaged PSU's because of this.
    3. I have seen claims that the BR1000MS does not actually regulate power output, and that it is not effective for brownouts despite the manufactures claim of having AVR.

    So given those issues is this ~$200 device a good investment or should I not bother with a UPS if I can't invest at least a $1000 on it? Also can someone clarify, the 600 watt rating only applies when its running off battery correct? Or will it cut off on AC power if my PSU actually draws 650 watts for some reason?