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Everything posted by fissilecore

  1. I found out that's because of voltage. PBO can easily push it to 1.4V or even more until it hits a thermal barrier. For the record you need a really good cooling to handle 1.4V for all cores load. I wouldn't put over 1.3V on stock Wraith Prism.
  2. I mostly ignored all overclocking until there was a need for undervolting on my 2700X. So at stock it runs terribly: hot, barely hits 4.1 on idle and 3.9 on stress tests. With PBO enabled and -0.05V core offset there's 4.15-4.2 on idle, 4.1-4.15 while playing games and 4.0 on stress tests but it runs hotter than I'd like. So to gain more control of temperatures I've decided to manually set multiplier and voltage. But here's a problem - 4.0 it reaches only at 1.3V and cannot keep stable 4.1 even at 1.45V (I really would have liked 4.0@1.25V and 4.1@1.35V at least). I don't want to mess with BCL
  3. TCP Global Parameters ---------------------------------------------- Receive-Side Scaling State : enabled Receive Window Auto-Tuning Level : normal Add-On Congestion Control Provider : default ECN Capability : disabled RFC 1323 Timestamps : disabled Initial RTO : 1000 Receive Segment Coalescing State : enabled Non Sack Rtt Resiliency : disabled Max SYN Retransmissions : 4 Fast Open : enabled Fast Open Fallback : enabled HyStar
  4. For TV it's LG 42LB650V (pretty sure it supports 802.11n standard), WiFi module is AX210. I was thinking of upgrading my router to 5Ghz but isn't Miracast connects both devices directly?
  5. I often cast movies from my laptop to a TV but it introduces stuttering and artifacts. So I wonder what's the limiting factor: the standard itself, 2.4 Ghz bandwidth or TV Wi-Fi module? If both the laptop and TV support 5 Ghz can I somehow force them to connect only through it?
  6. I have a simple GEPON-ONU terminal for optical network that connects to router via RJ-45. To avoid all these cables I've decided to buy one with built-in WiFi. There are a few options with GPON, EPON and XPON standards as well as ONT variants. Which are compatible with my equipment?
  7. Hi there. After finishing all the games I wanted I've decided to put my GPU to good use and started mining. Turns out you can make decent profits and recoup GPU cost in 3 months more or less. So I've been thinking about buying 6-8 more for a little farm. With astonishing local prices (900$ for 1660S), even high shipping costs overseas seem reasonable. I know it's almost impossible to buy a card at MSRP nowadays. Can you at least do it with 100$, 200$ or even 100% markup (looking for midrange: 1660Ti, 1660S, 2060, 3060Ti or similar)?
  8. Default SOC voltage should be at least 1v and it's recommended to set it to 1.05-1.1v for more stable RAM overclock. Your RAM voltage is also too low, for 3200Mhz default should be 1.35v but it may actually be caused by SOC. If you know what you're doing, you can try setting both manually.
  9. Why is your SOC voltage so low?
  10. Don't know if this would help but I had the same problem after updating Windows to the newest version. Some cumulative updates down the line eventually fixed that.
  11. With AGESA on B450 board I could comfortably run my 2700X at -0.1 offset but after upgrading to AGESA I get constant BSODs. Is it BIOS or maybe chip degradation?
  12. The question's in the title. With the RTX 3050 on the horizon perhaps it's better to load out now, when there's demand and buy a card with 30-50% more performance for the same price?
  13. Hi guys. Not so long ago I’ve built my first PC (used only laptops before) but there are stuff I couldn’t find answers to. It’s kind of a long list but I would appreciate any help. There are a lot of offerings for the RAM with odd clock speeds. What’s the reason behind the 3466 MHz and the similar? Why not the round numbers only like 3400 MHz? Performance increase is quite insignificant for it to make sense. Micron E-Die really doesn’t like tight tRCDRD timings. How important this value in broad terms? How it compares to similarly clocked Samsung B-Die for example 16-16-16-16-36