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Ultranothing

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  1. It doesn't matter how many folders I highlight — even if I Select All of 'em — it only changes the icon on the one folder my mouse happens to land on when I right-click the group. Properties (General Tab) shows as many folders as are highlighted. I've tried right-clicking in every area of the highlight from the icon to the right edge, and I've even tried using the right-click key, but only one folder changes. This is Windows 10 that I'm working with, here.
  2. Yeah, I agree with all that. It is a brand-new, enterprise-level drive and I just don't expect it to be making those kinds of noises. Having no experience with enterprise drives I'm just not sure if those noises are acceptable. I'll see about sending off the audio to Seagate and maybe they can help. Thanks for taking the time to give me your thoughts I appreciate it!
  3. Hi! So this was just going to be a post about a weird noise, but I was running some tests with CDM and noticed that my numbers were a little whack-o. Drive C is an internal drive, a 1tb Samsung 870 SSD. Drive F: is also an internal SSD, Samsung 870. Drives B: and V: are in an OWC Mercury Dual enclosure in JBOD mode. B: is a 16tb Seagate Exos x16 and V: is an 8tb Samsung QVO SSD. These CDM results seem to be wildly out of line with others who've posted here so is something screwy going on? So then the other thing that's weird is that drive B: (the 16tb enterprise HDD) i
  4. My Seagate Backup+ 8tb fell from about six inches and now is cooked. Again. Xfinity data caps are coming in 2022 so I'm setting up a little home-based storage thing that I hope is future-proof (and idiot-proof) and re-downloading all of my games, movies. music, etc., and I was hoping for some input/advice/etc. I got this: Samsung QVO 8tb SSD And this: Seagate EXOS 16TB HDD And this: Mercury Elite Pro Dual USB-C And this: Anker Powerline II USB-C to USB-C cable And just to be extr
  5. That's an awesome idea. I got lazy and just settled for the knowledge that it's a powerful pc.
  6. 3D print brackets, eh? Would that be something I'd have to try to design and produce myself, or would there be a place one could recommend for something like that? I'd be fine to have one of the cards being hidden behind the other. Just knowing it's there, and seeing the glow, with the tubes, would be fine with me. Also, I'm visualizing that the hardlines and the soft tubing would have a nice, consistent flow back to the waterblock which would look good. The cooling system is fully Corsair Hydro X so all the fittings are softline except for those between the cards. In ret
  7. Heya! So I'm trying to plan this build kind of on-the-fly. I have two 2080 ti's with Hydro X waterblocks and I'm trying to mount them in the most aesthetically-pleasing way possible. Installing them the standard way puts the blocks facing down and ideally I'd like to be able to see both of them facing out, so vertically mounted. I've got two vertical mounting brackets in the case but even with those, one of the cards takes them both up. I'd even be willing to mount one of them vertically and then the other straight into the PCB, but the tubing is straight hardline and the NVLink is also rigid.
  8. On the outside, if the system is completely sealed. But not inside, where there's no water to turn to vapor. And then I suppose you'd start to get ice forming on the case. Eventually, your sealed system would be flowing and chilling inside of a large block of ice?
  9. From the Electrocool FAQ: "Our Dielectric Coolants have no pH. pH is a measure of the strength and activity of ions (charged particles) in polar solvents. pH can only be determined for polar solutions (typically water based). Our coolants are completely non-polar (if there were ions in solution, they would conduct electricity). So, there is no measurable pH of a nonpolar coolant." That's too science-y for me But oh, definitely, this would be a hermetically-sealed, nitrogenny thing like you said I would love to see a PC running at sub-zero temps inside a block of ice. I mean, come
  10. From what I understand, the operating temperature range of ElectroCool is -66C to 300C and cannot condense because it isn't made with water. "All of our Dielectric Coolants have extremely low vapor pressure, basically unmeasurable below 100C at sea level. You will experience no evaporation of ElectroCool, BitCool or AmpCool in their normal operating temperature ranges." I don't know what that means exactly? But they're claiming that the liquid does not condensate.
  11. I had the idea. I haven't seen it before. Sounds like you might know something I don't! I'd love to see this actually having been put into practice! Someone has sub-zero chilled a dielectric engineered coolant and submerged a PC in it? My understanding is that ElectroCool isn't a mineral-oil based liquid, but a fully synthetic purpose-engineered fluid. Would condensation be a factor in a system that is already fully submerged in liquid? What could condensation form *on* that could be problematic? I dunno. It sounds pretty insane to me. Have you
  12. Below ambient temps *should* work, because the ElectroCool has an operating temp of, I believe -60c at the lower end. It becomes a bit thicker as it cools, according to my few minutes of research, but it will not freeze.
  13. This is an early-stage brainstorm, so it's rough, but here it is: Use this: https://www.thermofisher.com/order/catalog/product/223432900#/223432900 To cool this: https://engineeredfluids.store/collections/all/products/ec-140 Down to -25c, and recirculate that liquid through something like this: Imagine it! A fully submerged PC, in a non-conductive liquid that's chilled to -25c?
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