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W.D. Stevens

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About W.D. Stevens

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Melbourne, Australia


  • CPU
    AMD 5900X (TBP)
  • Motherboard
    Asrock B550 Steel Legend
  • RAM
    Crucial Ballistix RGB 32GB (2x16GB) 3600MHz CL16 (TBP)
  • GPU
    RTX 3060 Ti (TBP)
  • Case
    Lian Li Lancool II
  • Storage
    500GB Samsung 860 Evo, 3x2TB Seagate 7200RPM HDD
  • PSU
    Bitfenix Whisper M 850W (TBP)
  • Display(s)
    LG 32UN880-B
  • Cooling
    Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360
  • Keyboard
    Coolermaster MK550 V2
  • Mouse
    Razer Taipan
  • Operating System
    Windows 10
  • Laptop
    Dell G7 7700 (10750H/1660 Ti)
  • PCPartPicker URL

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  1. Ah yes it is. I see now. That's pretty handy. Thanks for the tip! Yeah, I have decided to get a receiver. I'm just trying to get my head around how to use it now, though. The one I'm looking at has a few HDMI inputs and can pass through 4K which is good as I do intend to get a 4K Blu Ray player at some point. I can't work out, though, whether you can have passthrough and ARC going at the same time. So if I'm on an input that's going into the receiver, I'll get sound out of the speakers and video on the TV but if I'm using the TV (for broadcast, YouTube and Plex), will I still be
  2. Hi all, I'm trying to set up a 5.1 surround sound system for the first time. I bought a new LG TV not realising that they stopped supporting DTS this generation. I've just been using the in built speakers for now until I can find the right speakers. I've been playing things off my Plex server (local) that identify as DTS or DTS-HD and it at least plays. I'm not sure what not supporting the format means then if it can play it fine. A lot of the sound systems I've been looking at on the used market are joint Blu Ray player and speaker combos so I'd most likely be using op
  3. Okay, update to this. For whatever reason, uninstalling the WiFi device in device manager sorted it out on the laptop. Still don't know why only on this one network. I moved my main PC in yesterday and it's been perfect until I tried to do a Discord call. None of the videos load and the sound is all distorted and robotic. In Task Manager, the network connection is receiving only a fraction of what I usually see with this particular group. I checked on the laptop and same deal. Tethering my phone and using its connection puts it right back to what I'm used to so it clearly has to be
  4. Hi all, I've recently moved house and got a new internet connection. I've been using my laptop (Dell G7 7700 with WiFi 6 card) to work until I get my internet sorted and shift my PC in. If I'm connected via ethernet, everything works fine EXCEPT for Speedtest.net (which the ISP is getting me to use to diagnose the problem). Where I'm getting big numbers for downloads that fluctuate between 70-500Mbps while uploads limp along 0.1Mbps. Doing a test with any other speed test site gives me not only consistently higher download speeds but also upload speeds between 40-50Mbps which is ab
  5. Hi all, I'm looking at buying a TV as I'm moving house and I was initially discounting OLEDs for obvious reasons but one's popped up (LG 65C7T) that could be good value. I'd be doing burn in checks of course but it has 1281 hours of total power on time which seems low so it might be fine. Just as a general rule (as I might not get this one) what would be an alarming figure given OLED's finite lifespan?
  6. Well, the Asus RT-AX55 is about $150 and AC1900 routers seem to be fairly comparable at around $140. There is one option that's cheaper but it only has two LAN ports and I need at least 3. I noticed that there's a sale on a D-Link DIR-1750 for $105 which could be a better option and then I could upgrade to an AX router down the line if I need it I guess.
  7. Well, for my use case (everyone else's may vary of course) I will have a 1000/50 connection but I'm coming from a 100/20 connection and I get what I need with WiFi 5. The thing is I know WiFi 5 is going to be just fine for what I need. Where I'm going to need/want the extra speed is going to be directly wired anyway. I know future proofing is often a pointless exercise, it just seems to make sense to get the latest standard if it's available and the same price. But if an AC router is going to perform better with mostly AC devices than an AX router would, then that's certainly informs the choic
  8. Hi all, I've been talking about this on a deal-based forum as there's a promo on the Asus RT-AX55 at the moment. The prevailing wisdom is that the kinds of features you're getting with a WiFi 6 router like that isn't worth it and you'd be better of waiting to upgrade until things get a bit more refined and the kinds of features in the expensive routers trickle down into the cheaper options. But say you're moving house and can't take your old router with you for whatever reason (full disclosure, that's exactly the situation I'm in), so you just need to get any router that will do th
  9. Hi all, By far, the biggest source of noise in my system are 3 HDDs running in a RAID array I have to store media files for video projects I work on. When I'm not actually doing that kind of work, I really would like it if they just spun down. I have a timer set in Windows to time them out after a few minutes but they will just randomly spin up again for no apparent reason and stay on until they time out. Is there any way to get them to only spin up when I ask it to? Ideally, I would love for them to never be on and then when I'm ready to do some work, I click a button and they sta
  10. I may have missed it in the video but I'd be interested to know how common having 4 slots with 2 sets of 2 matched sticks because I could totally see a lot of budget enthusiasts going for that. I'm just picturing say building a rig now with 2 4GB sticks to get you by and then, I don't know, a year later you've saved up for another set but you can't find the ones you bought before so you buy another set with similar speeds and timings to bump you up to 16. I would imagine that would run a lot easier than having all 4 slots populated with different sticks.
  11. Do you mean disconnect the fans from the cable running into the tubes and plugging them all into the motherboard directly?
  12. Just checked by unplugging the fans and I'm getting an N/A from either of the two CPU fan headers despite the VRM fan still going. I haven't been able to see that option anywhere though it would be handy perhaps. The only cables it has its one coming out of the tubes at the bottom of the radiator that goes to the three fans and then one that goes from the block/pump to the header.
  13. They don't seem to be heating up quickly. I did notice when I was checking it before, though, that it was hot but it had been in use for a couple of hours at that point so I guess that's fairly normal. I did manage to get a quick look and it was showing high numbers. I turned on Full Speed to try and buy a bit more time and it was at 1700. The pump and fans are controlled by the same cable so if the fans are working, surely the pump should be too unless, as potentially suspected, the pump is dead.
  14. Dang. I was afraid of that. Is that something that I can fix or will I have to get it replaced?
  15. Hi all, I'm really baffled here. I built this system at the end of last year and it's been working fine. All of a sudden today I was just using the computer for a few hours then in the middle of a YouTube video, the whole thing just stops. I try turning it on again and it gets to the loading screen and it shuts off again. I left it for a bit and then tried again to get into the BIOS where I saw the CPU temp was around 108. It's usually about 38-40 when I'm in the BIOS. I took the cooler off (Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360) and reapplied the thermal paste but it's still do