Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

W.D. Stevens

Member
  • Content Count

    196
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards

This user doesn't have any awards

About W.D. Stevens

  • Title
    Member

Contact Methods

Profile Information

  • Location
    Melbourne, Australia

System

  • CPU
    AMD 5900X (TBP)
  • Motherboard
    Asrock B550 Steel Legend
  • RAM
    Crucial Ballistix RGB 32GB (2x16GB) 3600MHz CL16 (TBP)
  • GPU
    RTX 3060 Ti (TBP)
  • Case
    Lian Li Lancool II
  • Storage
    500GB Samsung 860 Evo, 3x2TB Seagate 7200RPM HDD
  • PSU
    Bitfenix Whisper M 850W (TBP)
  • Display(s)
    LG 32UN880-B
  • Cooling
    Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360
  • Keyboard
    Coolermaster MK550 V2
  • Mouse
    Razer Taipan
  • Operating System
    Windows 10
  • Laptop
    Dell G7 7700 (10750H/1660 Ti)
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi all, I was wondering if there was anything I could load up on my laptop to give a rough calibration to my LG C1? I have an Xrite i1 Display Studio which I used with DisplayCal to get a rough balance but given all I had were those little colour bars and it was looking at a pure white square, I could really only adjust the white balance for white. If I went into the colours for Low, my adjustments there had no effect on the white square of course though they completely changed the look of the image. I was wondering if there was any software (preferably free or relative
  2. Just looking at Task Manager, it fluctuates between 20% and 50% during scrubbing and seemingly between 1-10% during rendering (those numbers are on each of the 3 drives individually, not cumulative). I took a couple of screen recordings: Scrubbing Rendering
  3. Actually it's h264 ~6500kbps for some sources and then 20Mbps and 50Mbps for the native recordings from the two main cameras. I know it's far from ideal but it's live event stuff and it's all the system actually records. And honestly I've had no issues with it thus far to be honest. I've never had any issue with editing or scrubbing with the footage and I do a lot of scrubbing through as what gets imported is a multi-cam timeline from the vision mixing app that we use at the event so most of the editing is already done and it's mostly fixes. For my other editing work that isn't liv
  4. Hi all, I have had 3 2TB 7200RPM hard drives in RAID 0 as part of my rig (don't worry - the data is all stored elsewhere as well) since I built it in December and it's stood me in good stead. I've since picked up a lot more work and I'm starting to fill them a bit faster than I thought I would so I was looking at maybe replacing them with 4TB drives instead though they mostly only come in 5400RPM flavour. The work that gets mostly done on there is all HD, nothing 4K. Anything that is 4K gets stored on there and then is moved temporarily to my NVME SSD while I'm working on it to mak
  5. I've been thinking about this too. I've found the fact that OLED is taking over on phones quite confusing due to the high static items. My girlfriend has I think it's an S8 Edge which she got from a family member Christmas before last and that has some pretty noticeable burn in so that kinda put me off them. I moved about 4 months ago and bought a UN7300 which on the whole I'm enjoying though when I watch dark things in the dark, the IPS glow does get to me a bit and there's definitely some uniformity issues that show up on solids which does happen somewhat frequently (drawing chan
  6. They do look compelling and about $25 cheaper than the Pro Controller. Just doing a quick search shows up some people raving about them and those hating them. They seem like they'd be good for D-Pad centric games but I can't imagine games mostly using the sticks would be too comfortable for too long. Maybe I'm just used to the asymmetric layout though.
  7. Hi all, I honestly don't play a lot of games but I do on occasion and it's mostly Nintendo games either on my Switch or some retro games I prefer to emulate on my PC for the upscaling capabilities. I've been mostly using keyboard and mouse for this but that's proving quite difficult in a few games. Plus I'd like to be able to Gamestream to my TV so I can play them in the living room so I don't know whether it would be better to connect wirelessly to my Shield TV or to the PC in the next room (it's a small apartment, it will be able to reach easily). I would prefer the N
  8. Ah yes it is. I see now. That's pretty handy. Thanks for the tip! Yeah, I have decided to get a receiver. I'm just trying to get my head around how to use it now, though. The one I'm looking at has a few HDMI inputs and can pass through 4K which is good as I do intend to get a 4K Blu Ray player at some point. I can't work out, though, whether you can have passthrough and ARC going at the same time. So if I'm on an input that's going into the receiver, I'll get sound out of the speakers and video on the TV but if I'm using the TV (for broadcast, YouTube and Plex), will I still be
  9. Hi all, I'm trying to set up a 5.1 surround sound system for the first time. I bought a new LG TV not realising that they stopped supporting DTS this generation. I've just been using the in built speakers for now until I can find the right speakers. I've been playing things off my Plex server (local) that identify as DTS or DTS-HD and it at least plays. I'm not sure what not supporting the format means then if it can play it fine. A lot of the sound systems I've been looking at on the used market are joint Blu Ray player and speaker combos so I'd most likely be using op
  10. Okay, update to this. For whatever reason, uninstalling the WiFi device in device manager sorted it out on the laptop. Still don't know why only on this one network. I moved my main PC in yesterday and it's been perfect until I tried to do a Discord call. None of the videos load and the sound is all distorted and robotic. In Task Manager, the network connection is receiving only a fraction of what I usually see with this particular group. I checked on the laptop and same deal. Tethering my phone and using its connection puts it right back to what I'm used to so it clearly has to be
  11. Hi all, I've recently moved house and got a new internet connection. I've been using my laptop (Dell G7 7700 with WiFi 6 card) to work until I get my internet sorted and shift my PC in. If I'm connected via ethernet, everything works fine EXCEPT for Speedtest.net (which the ISP is getting me to use to diagnose the problem). Where I'm getting big numbers for downloads that fluctuate between 70-500Mbps while uploads limp along 0.1Mbps. Doing a test with any other speed test site gives me not only consistently higher download speeds but also upload speeds between 40-50Mbps which is ab
  12. Hi all, I'm looking at buying a TV as I'm moving house and I was initially discounting OLEDs for obvious reasons but one's popped up (LG 65C7T) that could be good value. I'd be doing burn in checks of course but it has 1281 hours of total power on time which seems low so it might be fine. Just as a general rule (as I might not get this one) what would be an alarming figure given OLED's finite lifespan?
  13. Well, the Asus RT-AX55 is about $150 and AC1900 routers seem to be fairly comparable at around $140. There is one option that's cheaper but it only has two LAN ports and I need at least 3. I noticed that there's a sale on a D-Link DIR-1750 for $105 which could be a better option and then I could upgrade to an AX router down the line if I need it I guess.
  14. Well, for my use case (everyone else's may vary of course) I will have a 1000/50 connection but I'm coming from a 100/20 connection and I get what I need with WiFi 5. The thing is I know WiFi 5 is going to be just fine for what I need. Where I'm going to need/want the extra speed is going to be directly wired anyway. I know future proofing is often a pointless exercise, it just seems to make sense to get the latest standard if it's available and the same price. But if an AC router is going to perform better with mostly AC devices than an AX router would, then that's certainly informs the choic
  15. Hi all, I've been talking about this on a deal-based forum as there's a promo on the Asus RT-AX55 at the moment. The prevailing wisdom is that the kinds of features you're getting with a WiFi 6 router like that isn't worth it and you'd be better of waiting to upgrade until things get a bit more refined and the kinds of features in the expensive routers trickle down into the cheaper options. But say you're moving house and can't take your old router with you for whatever reason (full disclosure, that's exactly the situation I'm in), so you just need to get any router that will do th
×