Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

SheevaBlaster

Member
  • Content Count

    45
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation Activity

  1. Funny
    SheevaBlaster got a reaction from Slayerking92 in Best Way to Set up Netgear Nighthawk AC2300 R7000P   
    So I'm reading a lot of stuff online and its making me really confused. I thought setting up this AC2300 was going to be as simple as plugging in the ethernet cable to my modem and logging into the router settings and voila all done.... apparently that's not the case.
     
    So I have a Verizon Quantum Gateway G1100. Do I just need to plug the ethernet cable into the port labeled "internet" on the nighthawk, and the other end of the ethernet cable into the "WAN" port on the g1100? Then proceed with using the setup genie for the nighthawk?
     
    I'm also confused because I'm reading now that I could use the nighthawk in either AP or bridge mode? Is one better than the other? My main concern is that I just want the nighthawk to be my primary router for the extended range benefits compared to verizon's g1100 since I'm not getting internet service on one side of my house with it. I've tried understanding the difference between AP and bridge mode and I can't seem to wrap my head around the concepts.
     
    Can anyone provide me clear and concise directions for setting up this router? I'm starting to worry that I spent $150 for no apparent reason. I feel like I'm over contemplating things but I just want to ensure I'm getting the most bang for my buck.
     
    Thanks for the help!
  2. Informative
    SheevaBlaster reacted to Electronics Wizardy in Best Way to Set up Netgear Nighthawk AC2300 R7000P   
    You probably have internet over the coax then.
     
    Id probably try to use your own modem, but if you can't, setup the g1100 in bridge mode, and plug your routers wan port into the lan ports on the g1100
  3. Like
    SheevaBlaster reacted to SjanaWilgani in Thermaltake H200 TG, Front Strip and Power LED not lighting up   
    Ok I must be some sort of idiot.
    The Sata Power Connector just has to be plugged in the way you would plug in an HDD or SSD.
    Now the Front Panel is also functional.
  4. Like
    SheevaBlaster reacted to Alan GE in Thermaltake's h200 RGB TG Issue   
    I know this is old but incase anyone saw this from google here's the solution >>>
     
  5. Like
    SheevaBlaster reacted to Alan GE in Thermaltake's h200 RGB TG Issue   
    first reply is the solution aswell 
    https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/en5urg/need_help_with_the_thermaltake_h200_rgb_snow/
  6. Like
    SheevaBlaster got a reaction from Alan GE in Thermaltake's h200 RGB TG Issue   
    Hello everyone,
     
    So I sort of have a non issue on my hands. So I recently just completed my first PC build, and everything seems to be running better than I expected for everything to come out. My issue is that I can get the ring around my power button to light up with RGB, but I can't get the front panel RGB strip to light up. I think I have everything plugged into the motherboard correctly now, as I just rearranged the Power LED cables and that got the Power button RGB issue solved, but that leaves a power LED slot open on my G Connector which I suspect indicates that I need to plug in 2 more wires to get the front panel RGB working.
     
    I removed the front panel cover and found a SATA cable that is linked to a 4 pin male connector, so I don't think that can fit in the front panel connectors on my motherboard. That seems to be the only other wire I can find.
     
    My question is: should I have a total of 4 Power LED cables (2 Positives, 2 Negatives) to get both the front panel RGB strip and Power buttons to light up? Again, this is such a non issue as everything seems to be running smoothly and I think RGB looks sorta tacky anyways, I'm just really curious to see what it looks like considering I spent $80 on the case. Any advice is much appreciated!
  7. Agree
    SheevaBlaster reacted to weez in PC37x or Corsair Virtuoso SE   
    I would save money and get the pc 37x. You can also get them on Amazon so you could use your gift card. And I see some good deals on used ones from Amazon warehouse
  8. Agree
    SheevaBlaster reacted to rice guru in PC37x or Corsair Virtuoso SE   
    If clean and precise is what you want the pc37x is definitely the better of the 2
  9. Like
    SheevaBlaster reacted to rice guru in Headphones Recommendations under $65   
    in regards to the mic here is hardware canuks comvering it 
     
  10. Informative
    SheevaBlaster reacted to kokakolia in Headphones Recommendations under $65   
    Open back headphones sound noticeably different from your regular headphones. Open backs have much less bass and noise isolation, but are better at spatial detail (which is a huge plus for FPS games). Mic bleed is never an issue with open backs. 
     
     
  11. Like
    SheevaBlaster reacted to rice guru in Headphones Recommendations under $65   
    If you love in the US I would hop on the PC 37x for a $100 on mass drop if you don't mind open back https://drop.com/buy/massdrop-x-sennheiser-pc37x-gaming-headset
  12. Like
    SheevaBlaster reacted to kokakolia in Headphones Recommendations under $65   
    Ah sorry! I used them everyday for 1 year without an issue. At the time I just used the mic on my cheap Logitech webcam and it worked fine. 
     
    For $20 you can get an excellent mic: the Sony ECMCS3. But it’s evidently less convenient than a gaming headset. 
  13. Like
    SheevaBlaster reacted to RadiatingLight in Recommendation For RAM?   
    Just go for any fast 3200Mhz+ RAM from a reputable manufacturer.
    if you want a specific reccomendation, this is a great kit: https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-16gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820232731?Item=N82E16820232731&nm_mc=AFC-RAN-COM&cm_mmc=AFC-RAN-COM&utm_medium=affiliates&utm_source=afc-PCPartPicker&AFFID=2558510&AFFNAME=PCPartPicker&ACRID=1&ASID=https%3a%2f%2fpcpartpicker.com%2fproduct%2fVtL48d%2fgskill-ripjaws-v-16gb-2-x-8gb-ddr4-3600-memory-f4-3600c19d-16gvrb&ranMID=44583&ranEAID=2558510&ranSiteID=8BacdVP0GFs-BBOrrPMmQ7Ev9Gp92hNo3Q
     
    and if you want RGB: https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-16gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820232866?Item=N82E16820232866&nm_mc=AFC-RAN-COM&cm_mmc=AFC-RAN-COM&utm_medium=affiliates&utm_source=afc-PCPartPicker&AFFID=2558510&AFFNAME=PCPartPicker&ACRID=1&ASID=https%3a%2f%2fpcpartpicker.com%2fproduct%2fDwVG3C%2fgskill-trident-z-neo-16-gb-2-x-8-gb-ddr4-3600-memory-f4-3600c18d-16gtzn&ranMID=44583&ranEAID=2558510&ranSiteID=8BacdVP0GFs-nFsHvu6E8MEpeFNnP7xAvw
  14. Like
    SheevaBlaster reacted to dizmo in First build need Constructive Criticism   
    Don't go off of claimed response times from monitor companies, they're very, very rarely accurate. $330 is a lot for a monitor and there are loads of better options out there.
     
    It's only a generation newer so it's not amazing, but if it's only a few dollars, I'd still spend the extra.
     
    I had a couple of MSI motherboards when I tried Ryzen, all failed. I have an MSI motherboard now, and it's failing. I'll never buy another MSI motherboard again, nor will I recommend one.
  15. Like
    SheevaBlaster reacted to VEXICUS in First build need Constructive Criticism   
    I'll recommend something like this instead...
     
    PCPartPicker Part List
    CPU: Intel Core i7-8700K 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor  (Purchased For $290.00) 
    CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 50.5 CFM CPU Cooler  ($88.99 @ SuperBiiz) 
    Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 AORUS PRO WIFI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($173.98 @ Newegg) 
    Memory: GeIL SUPER LUCE RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory  ($58.99 @ Newegg) 
    Storage: Sabrent Rocket 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive  ($119.98 @ Amazon) 
    Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB GAMING OC Video Card  ($389.99 @ Newegg) 
    Case: Thermaltake H200 TG Snow RGB ATX Mid Tower Case  ($90.00) 
    Power Supply: Corsair TXM Gold 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply  ($89.99 @ Newegg) A bit overkill, I know. But at the time of making this list, the 550w & 650w units were more expensive than the 750w unit.
    Monitor: MSI Optix MAG27CQ 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor  ($299.99 @ B&H) 
    Total: $1601.91
    Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
    Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-12-21 23:10 EST-0500
  16. Informative
    SheevaBlaster reacted to LukeSavenije in First build need Constructive Criticism   
    PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU Intel Core i7-8700K 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor $359.89 @ B&H CPU Cooler Deepcool NEPTWIN V2.0 53.65 CFM CPU Cooler $39.99 @ Amazon Motherboard Gigabyte Z390 AORUS PRO WIFI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard $173.98 @ Newegg Memory Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory $67.98 @ Amazon Storage HP EX920 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive $114.99 @ Newegg Video Card EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB BLACK GAMING Video Card $479.99 @ Newegg Case Thermaltake H200 TG Snow RGB ATX Mid Tower Case   Power Supply Fractal Design Ion+ 660 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply $118.85 @ Newegg Case Fan ARCTIC F14 PWM PST CO 74 CFM 140 mm Fan $12.99 @ Amazon Case Fan ARCTIC F14 PWM PST CO 74 CFM 140 mm Fan $12.99 @ Amazon Case Fan ARCTIC F14 PWM PST CO 74 CFM 140 mm Fan $12.99 @ Amazon Monitor Dell S2417DG 23.8" 2560x1440 165 Hz Monitor $329.99 @ Dell   Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts     Total (before mail-in rebates) $1754.63   Mail-in rebates -$30.00   Total $1724.63   Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-12-21 17:29 EST-0500   msi's boards aren't bad per say, it's just that gigabyte has gone so nuts on vrm they win most of the time for me. i added a cheaper, but still totally keepable cooler to it. the ram is sold as 3000 cl15, but as this is micron e, it has shown to be keepable of 3600-3800 mhz. i added a cheaper 2070s to it. Focus has shown some issues at 120% overload with ripple, and the Ion+ is similarly priced. you could save some money here by grabbing an 80+ gold like this one though: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bqVD4D/corsair-rmx-2018-550w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020177-nathe f14's are mostly just because they're cheaper, but still fine here. i'd personnaly go with 3 intake and 1-2 enhaust fans. i don't know much about monitors, so i'll leave that to others
  17. Like
    SheevaBlaster reacted to trevb0t in Intel i7 8700k Gaming/Workstation Build   
    Worst case you could try jimmying them to fit by removing rubber corner pieces, etc. 
    I was able to fit 3x 120mm fans into my MX-330, which only supports 2. Just had to get clever on the mounting for the top unit.
  18. Like
    SheevaBlaster reacted to DoctorNick in Fan Setup for Thermaltake h200 case   
    Depends on the airflow from the front. I Run like this in my Ryzen build https://linustechtips.com/main/profile/9174-doctornick/
    But I use a 1060.. But you could fit a smaller fan in the rear, a standard 140mm.
  19. Like
    SheevaBlaster reacted to DoctorNick in Fan Setup for Thermaltake h200 case   
    Looking at pictures of the Thermaltake H200 it looks like the NF-A15 will be too wide to fit with the side window closed But you could move it to the back of the heatsink and then don't install a rear fan in the case. Like this, just without a rear fan:

  20. Like
    SheevaBlaster got a reaction from Meganter in Intel i7 8700k Gaming/Workstation Build   
    Awesome, thank you so much! You've been very insightful and incredibly patient despite my ignorance. Thank you again and stay safe friend ?
  21. Like
    SheevaBlaster reacted to Jumballi in MSI Z390 Gaming Plus Build/Recommendations   
    Mac has to be efficient with storage since their 128gb is their best selling. Pc on the other hand is the wild west, With some triple a devs releasing games just under $200gb without expansions, and professional programs hinting to want to head in that direction soon, I’d drop the extra ssd for now if you have a boot ssd already. I emphasize instead to get a 2-4tb hard drive. It’s not fast, but you just install it and actually forget about it since it’ll take a long while to fill. Eventually look at replacing the boot ssd, but don’t spend more where you don’t have to at this time.
  22. Informative
    SheevaBlaster got a reaction from Juular in MSI Z390 Gaming Plus Build/Recommendations   
    I went into the overview page of PCPartPicker and right above "compatibility" at the middle-ish of the page they had a tiny URL. I copied that link, then went to this thread and at the bottom right of my response box it says "insert other media"... clicked "insert image from URL, and voila! but it didn't work for me when initially creating this post, I even tried going back to edit this post and do that and it still didn't work. Beats me!
  23. Like
    SheevaBlaster reacted to Juular in MSI Z390 Gaming Plus Build/Recommendations   
    That mostly applies only to manual OC. XMP profiles are stable, at least with Intel. So stick with 3600MHz kit if it's cheaper.
    This is for gaming right ?
    I'd recommend Gigabyte Gaming X motherboard instead, better VRM.
    You can get cheaper SSDs, Samsung ones are overpriced.
    You don't need 250$ PSU for this, get Phanteks AMP 550W, it's enough.
    be quiet! SW2 fans are equally good quality as Noctua ones, get 1000RPM versions for 15$ so they wouldn't sound like jet taking off.
    There's cheaper 1080p displays, you can get 1440p 144Hz VA one for this price.
    And there are cheaper\better GPUs too, either get perfectly good reference one for 500$ or EVGA XC with better cooling system for 520$.
  24. Like
    SheevaBlaster reacted to Jumballi in MSI Z390 Gaming Plus Build/Recommendations   
    Your build looks great, perfectly balanced, I’d personally get additional hard drive as secondary storage because games and files are getting larger. Also I’d get a 1tb nvme instead of 500gb because personal preference, just make sure it’s not qlc nand flash.
  25. Like
    SheevaBlaster reacted to Lorant in MSI Z390 Gaming Plus Build/Recommendations   
    Can you post the link itself rather than copying the text?  Much easier to read for us.
     
    Also,  what's the reasoning behind the 8700K?  It's a generation old but still rocks.  Tho an AMD build with the 3600 is cheaper for a touch less performance.
×