Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

Lipe123

Member
  • Content Count

    297
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation Activity

  1. Like
    Lipe123 got a reaction from R.O.R. Graphics in Are you able to remove the tubing from Corsair H100i GTX/V2, H110i GTX, and H115i?   
    Yeah holy cow so many responses along the lines of "don't mess with it you might break it and ruin your pc" 
    Why are they in the custom cooling subform in the first place?!
     
    Everyone here messes with things, that's what we do!
     
    You never know, OP might have plans to buy dead AIO's and repair them or whatever.
  2. Funny
    Lipe123 reacted to bowrilla in another silly loop order..... Question.   
    Let me rephrase your post to point you towards the answer: "So, I know loop order does not matter. But does loop order matter?"
  3. Agree
    Lipe123 reacted to Moonzy in Why are waterblocks so expensive?   
    i'd reckon it's due to less demand, thus driving up the per cost unit
  4. Agree
    Lipe123 reacted to MaratM in Cooling your PC in a deep freezer   
    It is probably a better idea to travel up north Canada and freeze a PC in -35C))) as long as they use antifreeze as a coolant)
  5. Agree
    Lipe123 reacted to TehDwonz in Anyone know about Monsoon Reservoirs?   
    The only outlet is the one from the pump at the bottom. All the others are optional returns - likely positioned to be more convenient. Block any you don't use.
  6. Like
    Lipe123 reacted to Stahlmann in First time Custom Waterloop Help   
    @-rascal- @Bananasplit_00 @For Science! @Lipe123
     
    Just a heads-up for you guys. Thank you again for all your help. With the arrival of my 3080 and the waterblock i could finally finish this upgrade. Everything worked flawlessly and i even had a convenient place to put a drain. No leaks whatsoever.
     
    Temps with Furmark CPU & GPU burner active at the same time and after the water hitting equilibrium:
    CPU (3700X) stays at ~60°C while running stock
    GPU (3080) stays at ~52°C while OCed to 2,15GHz core and 12,5GHz memory. (Gotta say my PNY 3080 is an excellent overclocker. I didn't expect to hit stable 2150MHz at all!)
     
    Pump stays at 1500RPM, fans run at 500RPM and then slowly climbing as soon as the water temp rises above 40°C until reaching full speed at 50°C. Water equilibrium now is at ~42°C  with fans running at ~800RPM with both CPU and GPU running Furmark. So my goal to hit great temps and a absolutely silent system both worked out great.
     
    I still have to work more on my cable management, but first i wanted to test the newly put together loop. I don't regret going full costom watercooling at all!

  7. Like
    Lipe123 got a reaction from jtk700cln in Compression Fittings For Rubber Tubing   
    There is no shortage at all, not sure where you are looking or where you live though:
     
    https://www.dazmode.com/product-category/watercooling/fittings/soft-tube-fittings/12-34-compression-fittings/
     
    I have a bunch of bitspower ones with no issues.
  8. Agree
    Lipe123 got a reaction from BTGbullseye in Pierced fins on AIO-is it still usable?   
    uh dude, does you pc still turn on.. then its not fried.
     
    Also modern cpus can be run without any heatsink for a short bit with no issue.
    Double check that you are providing power to the aio properly, find the install manual for it and follow the steps.
  9. Like
    Lipe123 got a reaction from Chris Redfield in Pierced fins on AIO-is it still usable?   
    That fans have nothing to do with the cooler, they are just fans. If they don't spin you over tightened them or they are touching the rad or they are not getting power.
     
    Also if you put the pump on the sys-pump header and nothing in the CPU fan header your computer is going to think you have no cpu fan.
    So put the pump there or put one of the fans in the CPU fan header.
     
    I have no idea how that aio runs its fans so I can't tell you what is going on.
  10. Like
    Lipe123 got a reaction from Chris Redfield in Pierced fins on AIO-is it still usable?   
    uh dude, does you pc still turn on.. then its not fried.
     
    Also modern cpus can be run without any heatsink for a short bit with no issue.
    Double check that you are providing power to the aio properly, find the install manual for it and follow the steps.
  11. Agree
    Lipe123 reacted to SolarNova in Pierced fins on AIO-is it still usable?   
    If it bothers u, just use a pair of needle nose pliers or tweezers to straighten out the fins.
  12. Agree
    Lipe123 reacted to Bitter in Eliminating Preheating from Front Intake Rad   
    Who says that the front has to be intake? Top/rear intake and front exhaust through a radiator. VRM/RAM/Board/M.2/ back of video card get a fresh blast of cool air and all the heat goes out the front of the case. Why not?
  13. Agree
    Lipe123 reacted to Applefreak in Opinions/help on loop design?   
    You can use a X-Flow (or cross flow) radiator that has inlet and outlet at opposites sides, that way you can use shorter vertical runs. 
  14. Agree
    Lipe123 reacted to For Science! in Water cooled ... clothing ... o_O;   
    Having warmer than ambient tubes running across your body with a big whirring fan and radiator is not going to be comfortable for sure. You could just omit everything except for the fans, and it will be much more effective.
     
    I have a better idea, how about actually watercooling the body? There could be little pores on the surface of your skin, that gradually seep out water as you get too hot, and then we can even incoorporate some phase-change cooling by allowing that water to evaporate, dropping the surface temperature of the skin more dramatically than any other watercooling system.....oh yeah, thats sweat.
  15. Agree
    Lipe123 reacted to HairlessMonkeyBoy in Mixing metals inquire   
    Nickel and copper are fine because they have very similar electronegativity. It is aluminium that you need to not mix with copper or nickel.
     
    Still, it is wise to use an anti corrosion agent, or a premix that contains one.
  16. Like
    Lipe123 got a reaction from gloop in PSA: Gigabyte gaming OC 5700 and 5700XT has the same PCB   
    I finally just pulled the trigger and ordered: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001120981656.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.61564c4d9Vo3Xe
     
    It worked perfectly good on my non-XT card.
     
    Here is some random pics: https://postimg.cc/gallery/kJW8rCM
     
    I used a small hammer to remove the studs from the backplate so I could re-use it with the block. It still gets hot AF behind the GPU when I run a stress test so I think this is a good idea in general.
     
     
  17. Informative
    Lipe123 reacted to Grabhanem in cpu/gpu water cooling need help!   
    9900K@5.1 is around 250W, 3090 is a 350W tdp but the hydrocopper will probably be more like 400-450W, so expect to have to dissipate around 700W of heat.
     
    EK rates their slim 360 radiators at 574W at max fans and 15 degrees dT, so it would probably be doable with good case airflow and a bit less agressive power curves. A thicker radiator with good fans would handle it fine.
    https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3830046991850.pdf
     
    Are you pulling the radiator off an AIO? Generally those radiators are aluminum and therefore not compatible with conventional copper parts.
  18. Informative
    Lipe123 got a reaction from Mortis Angelus in Dual system, one loop: Possible with manual pump and fan control?   
    No I get it, you listed two different options. 1. The dual PSU with two outputs. 2. A splitter the converts one PSU into two.
     
    The dual psu unit might not care if you connect its 12v lines together since it comes from one PCB anyways, kinda same with the splitter. 
    Still if you have both computers on at the same time (worst case) you need to  plan the system around that scenario.
    I can't imagine it's smart to hook the PWM connectors together of the two motherboards to control the fans and pump. 
     
    That's why I suggested the easiest and safest way would be to have the cooling system separated completely with manual set and forget fan and pump speeds.
  19. Like
    Lipe123 got a reaction from Mortis Angelus in Dual system, one loop: Possible with manual pump and fan control?   
    I'd get a small 12v only power brick and wire the pump and fans on that and just switch it on manually.
     
    You're not supposed to connect two PSU's together in any way, they might have small voltage differences and that will send power from one psu into the other and.. just don't.
     
    Get a stock standard 12V psu like this: https://www.amazon.ca/SuperNight-Switching-Transformer-Wireless-Switches/dp/B0776TDRL8/
    For fan control just put a old school variable resistor/potentiometer.
    It wont be sexy but its easy to do and with low risk.
     
    Further down the line you can do things like hook up a relay to each computer system and then have that turn on the pump and fans while still isolating the two power systems.
  20. Agree
    Lipe123 reacted to lastot069 in Are you able to remove the tubing from Corsair H100i GTX/V2, H110i GTX, and H115i?   
    why was everyone so mean and discouraging? Encourage the ideas and push the boundaries!
  21. Agree
    Lipe123 reacted to For Science! in First time Custom Waterloop Help   
    If you think you can manage, sure. You can also unmount the pump and tip it over outside of the case. Just be aware that other show builds (LTT and Youtube) aren't for the purpose of serviceability and practicality, they are primarily to look good for that one video, and then who cares how easy or not it is to drain.
  22. Informative
    Lipe123 got a reaction from Stahlmann in First time Custom Waterloop Help   
    I'd say 240mm per component, as thick as you can fit and afford, the thicker ones don't really offer double the performance though I've only every used D5's mine has a variable speed knobby thing and i set it to about 1/2 speed and its whisper quiet. I'd say n the past I've managed to get good deals on bitspower fittings, there are more options lately like the chinese bykski brand and possibly others? Bigger res does give you more thermal mass but it really only needs to be there so air bubbles has somewhere to go and the pump can suck coolant without issues. Any size is fine, its 50% functionality and aesthetics. no idea, prob evga like others mentioned. I use distilled water and vehicle coolant roughly 50/50 mix because the coolant is pretty thick and hard to pump. My theory is if your car is fine with it for 10+ years it will require very little maintenance. You can't only run distilled water, you will get algae so if you plan to go that route you need some kinda biocide. Depends on the fluid, I never drain mine for maintenance, only for hardware upgrades. Cases really depend on how you want it to look etc. I love my thermaltake V21 https://www.thermaltake.com/core-v21.html but its a fat boy so you need more desk space.  
  23. Like
    Lipe123 reacted to -rascal- in Coolermaster Liquid AIO pump noise   
    @nick name is correct.
    How is your AIO mounted?
    You need to move the air pocket / bubble away from the CPU block + pump combo.
     
    Ideal mounting is:
    A) Radiator at the top of the case
    B) Front of the case, but tubes going down
     
    Buuuut...given how cases are designed, it might not be possible sometimes...
     
     
  24. Like
    Lipe123 got a reaction from For Science! in Alternative tube routing brainstorming   
    I was more thinking about keeping the run a straight line through the GPU's into the cpu , but the "corner to corner" run makes logical sense to keep the runs equal length.
    You could maybe use 2 45 swivel fittings to keep it straight and then angle it into the CPU block below sneakily out of sight.
     
    Your case seems super tight to work in, above my paygrade XD
     
     
  25. Like
    Lipe123 got a reaction from EssDee in Building first water cooling loop   
    Further to what walrus said...
    You want to look for fans with large curved blades, usually they will have something about static pressure in the description.
     
    Regular high airflow fans are designed with no restrictions in mind, for radiators you have a pretty fine mesh right after the fan.
    Static pressure fans are designed slightly differently to force air through.
×