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Pharr Carnell

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About Pharr Carnell

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  1. Most benchmarks I have seen so far tend to say the 2950X is a better performer...cooler running with faster speeds; but yes lower thread count...any recommendations from users? I do not overclock or do any type of intensively demanding tasks...just want a half decent unit!
  2. For Science! - thanks for the info...I bought the combo as a working unit minus hard drives....do recall seeing some bits and pieces inside the Threadripper box, will check them out...have an Asetek A.I.O. as well...but now that I have some idea where I'm going... I realised the 1920x CPU was a different physical size to the 2700 but was in the dark about the actual mount to the socket; I believe they use the same system with the "hook" and threaded thumbscrew to tighten...but will see how I go...
  3. Have been using a Coolermaster ML240L AIO cooler for some months now on a Ryzen R7 2700 build...I do not overclock, just wanted good cooling capacity...but have just upgraded my system to a used Threadripper 1920X CPU with a Noctua NH-U14S heatsink on an x399 Taichi board with 4 x 16 GB Trident ram...and no issues. But have decided to max out my ram...and the Noctua fan is impinging upon the inner ram slot nearest the CPU. Another 4 x 8 GB G-Skill is on the way... I can easily get around the problem...at worst by replacing the 140 mm fan with a 120 mm Noctua which I doubt would hav
  4. Here's the thing...once you've done a new, fresh install, done all the updates and added the software you need....then THAT is the time to do a backup!! And to create a Restore disc... So that next time the system shits itself, use the Restore disc you burnt when prompted to by the cloning software [I've used heaps of different softs over the years...once using only Acronis, then Aomei, Veeam and lately Macrium] - if I had to recommend just 1...then Veeam seems a better result when a restore is required, tho Macrium is very good in that you can create a clone from say,a 500GB drive to
  5. MY bet is the case power switch cable is at fault; did you try, as others suggested, removing the case power switch cable from the motherboard, and shorting the 2 terminals with a small screwdriver [or anything metal]... If the motherboard turns on, then it is obviously the internal cable at fault [and if that is the issue...an easy fix is to remove the internal Reset Switch cable from the Reset terminals, and installing it on the Power Switch terminal]...that way enabling the Reset button on your case; to be the new "On" switch...if you've one of those rare breed of cases with no
  6. Most likely you've tightened the Noctua mounts too much, 'cramping' the CPU...that is usually the cause of loss of memory slots/channel...
  7. just try this; remove both [or all] ram sticks, save config, reboot...hopefully you will get an error beep indicating no memory detected...then replace the #1 stick and retry...all you can do is hope! If you are sure you have reset the BIOS to default settings [by removing the cmos battery and power lead, and shorting the clear cmos pins; then do that again...maybe you will get lucky with that. Are you certain you never changed any other settings? Thou if you've cleared the cmos...it SHOULD boot to the bios screen...have phun!
  8. depending on amount of system ram...Windows appropriates a specific percentage to hiberfil.sys and the pagefile - my hiberfil.sys is 10% of drive file capacity...and there's nothing you can do about that. I have found using a software that sorts all files on your drives is handy to see every file and its' size...I use treesize pro, but there's lots of alternatives available...
  9. is it one of the "low noise" type PSUs? Some PSUs they're built to not use the system fan till it reaches a certain temperature or load...
  10. He "lied to me"....really? On the Internet someone says "he lied to me"...that cannot possibly be true! Everyone knows people do not tell untruths on the Internet...or to their friends... OP...with a thousand plus post count; you need to ask these types of questions, relating to obviously attempting to use software contrary to its' Licensing obligations? It's a wonder you've not been howled down...further, asking questions along these lines? 'Tis simpler to google up whatever you want to know...
  11. seems more like a Windows hard drive issue to me...although 10 mostly is very forgiving [I mean you can plug a hard rive into a totally different system and it will boot to Windows] but then there's times when it just decides to shit itself...and there's nothing that will work other than a new install...and I've seen times where I have had to use an offline Linus dvd to wipe an drive because the USB just couldn't be seen by Windows...so...good luck!!
  12. All that processing power...in a classic case...and a GT 210? Sacrilegious...maybe it is Heaven's way of telling you you're due for a Graphics Card upgrade? LOL...could not resist the opportunity for a bit of a comedic view...tho that doesn't help your situation...and I cannot offer any advice!
  13. your link shows nothing....may also be an issue of the type of partition...UEFI or Legacy....GPT or MBR
  14. so if you're cluey, you can get by using cmd prompt to convert the types of disks, but honestly download and burn a rescue disk using an iso from any of the partition software companies...and use it to do the conversion...much easier and thus; almost foolproof... EaseUS or Partition Manager...and there's plenty of others....
  15. or Liquid Diamond or....recommendations of TIM are just the favourite material from the person who replied...if you go with a Corsair, no matter the model, you just fit it as supplied [with the default TIM already on the pump]...
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