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Garlic

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About Garlic

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  1. I have a problem with a new (to me) graphics card that I received today. It gives no signal on any ports, and when I boot the PC using the integrated graphics I see that the new GPU shows up reporting no problems in Device Manager, but that CPU-Z sees it as a generic 'Radeon 7700-series' card (It's a 7750), but it at least sees the correct amount of V-RAM and the correct clock speeds. Catalyst Control Center can't see the card at all though, and only sees my integrated Radeon 6320. What steps can I possibly take to get a signal from this card?
  2. I took a chance and ordered a refurbished M.O.U.S.9 on eBay. I’ll just close my eyes and pretend it’s Optimus, thanks guys
  3. These days I spend a lot of my work day manually integrating chromatograms, and having the option to lower DPI when marking my peaks would be nice. I can set up the mouse at home if I need software to do so, but I don't want to install any questionable gaming mouse control software on a company computer.
  4. I don’t mind buying used or hunting old stock. This combination of features is a real dream combo for me, I just need a model to look for.
  5. The M65 looks like it would do what I need, even if its RGB is a bit much for a work setting. But does it come in wireless?
  6. I am looking for a wireless mouse for my work computer, and I would love a feature like a ‘sniper button’ that would lower the mouses DPI while I hold it, and not just one that cycles through DPI settings like my Logitech G603 does. I also need it to function without any additional software installed on the PC, and I would like to keep the RGB to a minimum. What mouse should I be looking at?
  7. To be honest, I don't know. I flashed the system with the latest available BIOS and the most recent chipset drivers (This is an Ivy Bridge system with a Q77 chipset) when I built it, and I assumed that the USB ports would be covered in those. I'll check for specific USB controller drivers as well and return once those are found and tested. Thanks.
  8. I have a Windows XP retro gaming PC for which I am using a Logitech K800 keyboard and an M705 mouse connected through a Unifying receiver. The combo works great in Windows 10, so the problem is not likely to be faulty hardware or USB ports, but when I boot XP (bare metal) I get mouse freezes and ghost input from the keyboard after a few minutes of use. So far I have tried a different but similar set of K800 + M705 from another system I have, connected the receiver to every USB port in the system, and installed the latest drivers labelled as compatible with Windows XP from the Logit
  9. I have just finished setting up a home office, only to discover that the room is right at the edge of my ISP provided routers maximum range, and all I get in there is an unstable 50 kbps of the 1 gbps that is my theoretical max. It is a tale as old as time I guess, but that means that there must be solutions out there. I have already mounted the best antennas I could find to my office PCs, but that didn’t help. The next step is to replace my probably crappy router with something that has better range, and this is where I need recommendations. My priorities are range > compatibil
  10. Damn, you are right. I am certain that I selected the right drive when I installed XP, but it has placed itself on my Win10 drive anyway. I´ll reinstall and make sure to physically disconnect the other drive as I install each version of Windows. Thanks.
  11. I am a total n00b when it comes to dual booting, and I thought that I would just give it a go with an old system with no important files on it. I installed a spare SSD alongside the Win10 SSD that was already in the PC, inserted the WinXP CD and went on with the usual installation process, selecting the new SSD as the target drive and formatted it as one does. After the installation I noticed that the Win10 drive showed up under WinXP as a normal drive, and that I could reach all of my files in the Win10 installation from XP. Upon restarting I expected to be greeted by
  12. As the title suggests my iPhone recently auto-updated itself to 14.1, and ever since I have had neither incoming or outgoing sound in neither normal phone calls of in facetime. I am fairly certain that this is a software issue, why else would two unconnected devices like the speaker and the microphone die at the exact same moment, and right as the OS was being updated? I've tried to restore the phone to factory settings, reset the network settings, and even installed a new SIM card and repeated the process. Apple wants me to send in the phone, but as it is out of warranty they'll
  13. Then it registers whatever is bound to the button in question as push-to-talk. By default mouse 3 and 4 is 'forward' and 'back', which messes up some of the applications I use with Discord running in the background.
  14. I have a Logitech G603, and I want to use mouse button 3 and 4 for push-to-talk in various games and Discord. However, while Logitechs G-Hub software will let me bind any keyboard key or a ton of macros and other functions to the side buttons, I can't figure out how to set them up as just mouse 3 and 4. I can't just bind keyboard keys to the buttons and designate those as push-to-talk keys as no matter what keys I bind there is always at least one of the programs I use that uses that button for something obnoxious or flat out refuses to recognize it. So, how do you make
  15. I recently rescued an old M92p SFF system from the bin at work, and decided to throw some more RAM in it. It had a single stick of 4GB DDR3 1600mhz RAM in it when I brought it home, and I have since added a kit of 4x4 GB Corsair XMS3 that I found on clearance. Trouble is that while the single stick actually ran at 1600, the fancy Corsair kit only runs at 1333. There is no option to tinker with the RAM in the BIOS, and I have a sneaking suspicion that the 1600 speed advertised by Corsair is dependent on an XMP profile or manual overclock, which Lenovo of course won't let me do on a
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