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About Shisimona

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  1. I posted something about 1.5 weeks ago with having issues when gaming. Last night I seen Asus had a bios update for my Prime X470 Pro. So I downloaded it. Well about 2 hours ago, I flashed it to the new 5809, was 5601 before update. After it flashed. Message popped up saying it was successful, I clicked restart. It restarted and told me to press F1 to enter setup. Went into the BIOS to make sure it flashed proper and everything was in order. I exit to boot into Windows. While it was booting, it came up keyboard not detected but yet it was fine after the flash as it prompted me to press F1. The
  2. My temps are fine. I'm running a NH-D15. My temps stay around 45-50 when gaming. I have even ran some 3D Marks and don't have issues. I posted a pic of a quick OCCT that I did. I also opened HWMoinitor couple mins into the test to compare the temps between the programs. And another pic of the inside of my case. My memory is also fine. That was the 1st thing I thought of. Ran MemTest86 for 24 hours. No errors. This was with the Ryzen DRAM settings I set.
  3. Past few days, after roughly 10-15 mins of game play, my PC starts lagging HARD. My framerates are steady at 120-150 fps *game depending* and then drop to 10 fps and under. Does this with all games. Once I force close the game, everything is stuttering pretty bad. Windows will not shut down nor restart from start menu. Even pressing the power and reset button don't work. I have to switch off my power supply for it to shut down. But it only happens when gaming for 10-15 mins. If I don't game after restart, everything works fine. I have scanned for viruses, malware, etc and every scan comes
  4. Who needs dummy ram when your heatsink and fans cover your ram lol. My new G.Skill Trident Neo 2x16GB 3200MHz CL14 kit. And I keep the pointless RGB off. I hate it with a passion. If I want lights, I'll put up a Xmas tree.
  5. Well, I seemed to have fixed it. After it did the freakish weird BIOS flash, my CPU voltage was auto set to 1.0 volts. I set it back to 1.25 volts and my CPU at 4GHz. I don't know what happened but it was not normal at all. With Zen 3 just around the corner, i'll be upgrading anyways. Just need this to chug away til that happens lol.
  6. Anything over 4GHz, it's gonna need a lot of voltage. I have gotten my 2600x stable at 4.4GHz but at almost 1.5 volts. But I was creeping up to 80 degrees. Wasn't liking that. So I keep at 4GHz at 1.25 volts and my temps are 50-52 degrees. That's from running Cinebench R20 and OCCT back to back. My R5 2600x goes to 3.7GHz for a split sec but then stays around 4GHz at load and idle. But here's a screen of mine at 4GHz all cores. It also boosts to 4.6GHz on all core. This was after I did my R20 and OCCT back to back.
  7. I never got a disk with my motherboard. But I some how managed to flash my BIOS to the version 5601 which is the latest. But I didn't do it through the BIOS. I hopped on my laptop to see if there is a BIOS update. There is version 5601. So I downloaded it and put the file on my USB stick. I figured why not try this. Who knows it might work. Plugged the USB stick into my PC and started it up. And within 2 secs it asked me if I wanted to flash my BIOS. I wasn't in the BIOS for this command to prompt. I pressed Y to flash. It actually flashed this time. PC restarted. Auto
  8. Powered down the system. Unplugged from wall. Pressed power button few times. Removed battery for about 10-15 mins. Jumped the CMOS jumper. The same way I've been clearing the CMOS for roughly 20 years now. As I said, I just never seen anything like this before after clearing CMOS. This pic was taken after the CMOS was cleared. Ryzen 2600x ASUS Prime Pro X470 G.Skill Trident Neo 2x16GB 3200MHz 14CL B-Die EVGA RTX 2070 XC Black Edition Windows 10 3 Noctua 140mm PPC Industrial 3000 RPM NH-D15 Seasonic Focus Plus 850watts Gold I never had luck flashing this BIOS. It
  9. So I restarted my PC, and when it tried to load Windows it gave me a 0xc0000221 error code, which is apparently a corrupted driver or system DLL. Well, I popped in my Windows 10 USB to do a system repair and go to the BIOS so it will boot from USB, I got this. I even cleared CMOS and it still came up like this. But what's even more messed up, my overclock is still there, not stock like it should have been. And what's even more weird is, in the pic it shows M.2_1:N/A but on the side it shows Samsung SSD 970 Evo Plus 500GB. It is possible my BIOS and/or mother
  10. If you have read, no where did I say I'll be using it for water cooling. I want something so I don't have to use anything Corsair. All I talk about is air cooling.
  11. Yeah, above 4GHz, it starts getting a little power hungry. I did get it to 4.4GHz but my voltage was near 1.5v. A little much. I did run OCCT and Cinebench R20 for 15 mins each. Nothing crashed. I know not enough time. Temps were creeping up to 80 degrees. Wasn't comfortable with that.
  12. I did a couple restarts, and it seems to be reading proper now. On OCCT, Core Temp, HWMonitor and HWInfo64 *just installed it*. My idle temps are back to what they were before. Yeah, everyone likes my load temps. When I use both fans on my D15, I get about max temps of 47-48. I've actually had people say they don't believe me that I have temps like that for an air cooler. I've actually had my boost speed hit 7GHz on all cores once. Not sure if it was error or what. I haven't had any issues with it at all.
  13. So I got my new case in today. Moved everything over. But for some reason, my Idle temp stays at 40 degrees. Doesn't go any lower then that. Before I switched, it would be at around 25-27 on idle. But when I did 15 mins of Cinebench R20, temps stayed around 50-52 load. Then I went to OCCT within 10 secs and same thing after 15 mins. Load temps are the same. Nothing changed there. I don't know if my idle temps are reading proper. As you can see OCCT lowest said 28 but in HWMonitor is says 50. HWMonitor was running when I was running both Cinebench R20 and OCCT. I went
  14. I don't have the Grid, It's from other people who were having issues. Lots were saying mainly not having enough power to supply the fans. There was one guys who showed a pic of where the fan header melted.
  15. I wasn't expecting to have a bunch of user experience with it, but doesn't hurt to ask. The Grid won't work proper with my fans. I have the Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC 140mm 3000 RPM and NF-F12 industrialPPC 120mm 3000 RPM, and there have been users who have the Grid and those fans and have had nothing but issues. I know the Commander Pro would have no issues power powering these fans but i'm unable to find the proper amps and watts of each fan header as it's different from different sources. Some places say it's 1 amp per channel, same say 0.8 amp per channel. One place said it wa