Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


This user doesn't have any awards

About Ronath

Profile Information

  • Location
    Los Angeles, CA
  • Gender


  • CPU
  • Motherboard
    ASRock Z390 Pro 4
  • RAM
    G.SKILL Aegis 32GB (8x4)
  • GPU
    XFX Radeon RX 580 8GB
  • Case
  • Storage
    240 SSD (boot), 2T HDD (main), 4T HDD (vault)
  • PSU
    SeaSonic 620W
  • Display(s)
    MSI MAG241C and MAG240CR
  • Cooling
    FSP Windale 6
  • Keyboard
    Amazon Basics
  • Mouse
  • Sound
    Sennheiser Game ONE Gaming Headset
  • Operating System
    Windows 10
  1. So I've been debating for awhile what's the issue with one of my monitors. It's an MSI MAG 241C and about two years old. First concern: It's color is very off from my MSI MAG 240 CR that I bought a year later when my old second monitor died, but I just decided that it's just silly to think that two MSI products would have remotely similar color profiles. Second concern, that should have been the first, it doesn't understand that the computer is asleep. The monitor may (or may not) turn back on while my computer is asleep independent on whether or not my com
  2. When my 580 was glitching out, stuttering, flashing black screens, I blamed literally everything but the card... turns out it was a lemon. Just didn't realize it until one day it finished popping whatever circuit it was slowly frying.
  3. I don't see them mentioned often but cooling pads/fans do work. While anything that can lift the laptop to provide extra cooling helps, the ad hoc solutions can be difficult to transport. I'd say if you want to game with your laptop they can really help. I think the one I have claims it can reduce the temps by 20 degrees with all fans on full in a temperature controlled room. I haven't used it as much recently since mine usually spikes at start up then drops to more reasonable temperatures.
  4. Fallout 4 tends to be buggy on PC. Runs okay at 1080p with a 580. But people are going back and forth on 1080/1440p when OP was asking about 1080p. A 580 can run at 1080 usually at 75-100fps for me on high settings, sometimes higher if I'm lucky. I don't hit 144fps on anything but the simplest/older of games. In fact, I think I have the monitor they're looking at. Works well enough for the hardware.
  5. It wasn't on, but I did choose poorly when trying to give the card power - I had it inline with the fans at first and that didn't work out, but it didn't power up completely before I realized it wasn't going to work. Just tried removing the USB card - had no effect. Front I/O give me nothing but the usual dirty static (and Windows shows that there's something in the plug Rear jacks had been working as of about a week ago Pulled card, no effect Not a sound card, just the motherboard - ASRock Z390 Pro4 Headphones work fine via my laptop and via
  6. So the subject line says it all. I seem to have randomly broken my audio jacks. I installed a USB PCI-E the other day, but all of that was miles away from my audio jacks and these are my rear jacks - switched a few weeks ago because the signal to the front I/O was too dirty. Didn't notice at first because I tend to use (extremely cheap) speakers when I'm not gaming and they connect through my monitor, where as my headphones use the rear I/O. The question is: have I forgotten some really simple fix for this? I've updated the drivers (realtek) to most current - and the older ones tha
  7. Part of the reason they stopped doing the fabrication videos was because without the proper tools the results were garbage (well, recyclables). They did some modding that turned out well, but what they want to do requires a lot of precise measurements. I mean, they want to water cool a RED camera, did you see how tight everything is in that video? Everything for that will have to be custom made. And they've hinted they might expand their content to more maker type things.
  8. My understanding from when I got mine (such a learning curve building my first PC) that PCI is better since you aren't limited by the top speed of the USB. Not that you're likely to be hitting that 5/Gbps that USB 3.0 (or the 480 Mbps from 2.0) via wifi, but why risk it? Also, I absolutely had a free PCI-E 1x while I never have enough USB ports. Spent $30 USD, but I'll likely never replace it on this computer
  9. Sounds like a good deal. Worst case you upgrade your CPU later.
  10. Have you tried American DJ? This is pretty much their market. The model I used before is discontinued but the 64B LED Pro and the Mega Par Profile Plus look like they have the interface. They can be set to run to sound, set manually to a static color, or hooked into a lighting console with DMX for full control, and that goes for most of their products. I also see Lumilum has some DMX controlled strip lights but those look expensive (and do not come with the required DMX controller that must be bought from them?) .
  11. I need to replace my monitor, its just time, both from it dying and it not being capable of matching my upgraded PC. But due to upgraded PC I don't have a lot of money to spend on it. I've been checking on sales and have seen this 24" curved Acer on Newegg, there's a promo code bringing it down to $150. That price sounds good, but I've never used a curved monitor, would it even be worth it on a 24" screen?
  12. Another thing to think of, I'm sure that plugging in the adaptive controller into a PC you can use it as an alternative to a mouse - or at least you can with a fairly simple workaround if somehow Microsoft didn't think of that. That means it can help people use computers and the internet in general.